counterfeitfake

hahahaha... no you're right I've never climbed at Index. Carry on.

if being right on the internet is wrong, i don't want to be right

I WOULD say it's as hard as the crux of Davis-Holland. Are you high? You said there are a couple 5.9 moves. You voted 5.9+ for it on Mountainproject. Now, you say it was a 10b but you'll give it a 10a? What the hell.

NOOOO BOLTS = SPORT DUH ...are you for real? Thanks for the phone number beta.

Yeah, kind of funny. I thought ratings had to do with the hardest move, not the length. There was definitely a 5.9 move or two. ... so it's a 5.9 then? Good. (however, route grades OFTEN take into consideration how sustained the difficulties are) Anyway, the CURRENT MOUNTAINPROJECT CONSENSUS is 5.9! STAY TUNED FOR MORE EXCITING ROUTE GRADING DEVELOPMENTS!

Them is a good route. Much easier than Godzilla. Easier than Princely. Short.

lol this columbia gorge forum is so great

Just threw down $300. Index is the best crag we've got!

I think it's awesome that you'd charge into the unknown like this with no planned option for retreat, on a cold windy day no less. And bailing INTO Epinephrine is incredible and funny. My hat is off to you!

aw jesus

Ha, when I was up there it actually looked like this. Nice job! I wonder if you actually climbed the 5.4 pitch mentioned here? BOLD! I agree the routefinding in that area is difficult for some reason, and there isn't a ton of good beta. For anyone interested in the traverse, I put together the best info I could at mountainproject.

oooookay.

I am pretty sure it's the 3rd pitch, although they are relatively short pitches. It should be noted that access to it can be had by following GM which keeps the entire climb moderate. Yes, third pitch. You mean the part where it's not steep anymore? Up to that point it's thin hands? Yeah, Rattletale really depends on your hand size, it's wide for me too and my hand gets torn up at the top. But, if you can only do a jam at one specific width, you aren't much of a crack climber, so here's to practice. I'm trying to think of other great hand cracks... the ones that are obvious to me have been named. Breakfast of Champions deserves mention although the straight-up hand jamming doesn't last too long. Oh! Of course, Thin Fingers has a very good hand jamming section. Jam Exam is a great crack that requires some versatility. Karate Crack is SWEET although I think a lot of it is just finding constrictions and using your hand as a chock.

Hm. I have a friend who took a healthy fall onto a C3 and it blew, and sustained lobe damage like it sounds is described above. Does this happen to other cams?

P2 of Davis-Holland is an awesome thin hands crack.

Last summer? Sounds like them. The blonde was the badder ass of the two and knew how to hand jam. The dark-haired one wasn't so comfortable doing that so she just followed the entire pillar as a layback. Just ridiculous. We were around town for a week and ended up giving them car rides a couple of times. Got to hear a story about eating marmot in some European mountain range...

Yeah Nate, I was joking, although I saw it done once by this badass Slovenian girl. Uh, Angel is not a hand crack.

As was established, OS is a face climb with a crack for pro. P2 Rattletale? I would say Split Pillar but everyone knows you can just lieback that.

I dunno man, that 2.5 cm could no doubt save your ass at some point. That's easily the difference between a fist jam and an arm bar. Versus saving 3 ounces? That's for the people who haven't bought one yet, obviously OP will be able to make it work.

Rapping seems goofy to me. Just walk down to the Lane/Bryant saddle and then walk the rest of the way down.

The crack gradually widens. To protect it well you need a new C4 (or WC) #5 and #6. I think that means an old #4.5 and #5. It sucks to lug all that cam around for the one pitch. You could always run it out at the bottom or top. It might be scary.

marriage sounds fun

I haven't used that thing, but it doesn't look like it would be anything like drytooling.

So this big chunk of metal you're taking with you on ice climbs can't clean out an ice screw that is more than 3.5 inches long?

WD-40 is kids stuff, go with PB Blaster.