counterfeitfake

Backbone on Dragontail. Now would be a great time of year for it. Sagitarius at Index. Sagi-scarious.

I was trying to take a picture of him when he whipped. Pure luck.

What are those, Cairns? They look sweet.

You took offense at being told you look suspicious. But, you were about to commit a crime. Have you thought about that?

I've always felt like there are no distinct routes on upper upper castle, it all seems like mid-fifth knob grabbing.

That is true from what I understand. Why do you think people's knees get wrecked with such frequency? Anyway, this is a pretty awesome rant. You sure know better. Maybe you should buy an iPod.

Is it really better to hold onto your dissatisfaction until you can talk about it on the internet, than to try and solve the problem on the spot and in-person?

Is there a difference between the DMB fan base and the Jack Johnson fan base?

Thank you for the well-written, thoughtful and coherent review.

I was under the impression that REI also will not take back climbing gear.

good luck with that

I've got a 1984 F250 with the 6.9 liter diesel. I believe this is what MisterMo is talking about above, be aware that this is an International motor, not the Powerstroke motor that is in years you are probably asking about. It is the bomb though- can tow a car and still get 17 mpg. It's got a quarter of a million miles on it and still seems to be going strong. If you want the real info it is here: fordtrucks.com. Beta overload. are you getting tears in your latte?

I don't know where you're getting your beta... never heard "deathwish" and "apron" in the same sentence before. Most of the well-traveled routes up the apron do not have "serious runouts". Deidre, for example, follows a crack almost the whole way and you can protect as much as you want. There is a runout slab at the very bottom but it is not serious.

I've got no problem with your suggestion. I think the most important element in being safe is a REAL understanding of the gear you use and the situations you can find yourself in. A formal organized class could prepare you with the real comprehension and flexible thinking it takes to be ready to go out on your own, or it could instill in you a belief that rote memorization equals safety. I don't think individualized learning is different. Whatever your style, approach your limits, but approach them cautiously.

BIG WOMAN

I suggest the top of R&D. Behind that sketchy boulder.

Looks hard. I'll stick with Index.

That the boulder might not be a safe anchor IS a reasonable argument... edited: I should say MIGHT BE, not IS

How many bolts are you going to put in to make it "safe"? It's a trad line, and properly so. Lots of features. Easy to build gear anchors. Ledges. Sitting belays. Low-angle. This may be a "high-traffic newbie area" but it is still a multipitch trad line. It's climbed by beginner multipitch trad climbers, to learn beginning multipitch trad. You shouldn't climb R&D if you don't know how to place trad gear. You shouldn't go on this route if you don't know how to build a gear anchor. You shouldn't go on multipitch routes if you don't know self-rescue. This is a case-in-point. I still don't understand your reasoning and don't think you've explained it very well. For adding bolts to an easily-protectable trad route, if the best argument you can come up with is "what could it hurt", then, I think no. No bolts.

aw jesus here we go

What situation? The one where you need to rappel down to rescue someone? Bolts would be more convenient, sure, but I don't think that boulder is considered unsafe. As far as I know people have been evaluating it as safe and anchoring to it for a long time... I think these guys could have gotten in over their heads on many other routes. Many routes have pitches longer than half a ropelength. How many routes are going to need "rescue bolts"? I guess I don't really understand your reasoning. Also, not to kick anyone when they're down, but IMO that crack on R&D shouldn't be too hard for anyone to get up on toprope. Whatever sketchy business they did to get him off the rock was surely harder and more dangerous than him just sucking it up and climbing. Or even using a pair of prusiks to aid past the hard part. I'm sure the pair learned a lot from this, and hope they apply it effectively the next time they go out. bad judgment -> experience -> good judgment

I'd try just to be courteous. But I don't think it's mandatory.

The direct start is gnar as fuck.

Yes, if you take it easy in places.