powderhound

I have a three week window between mid May and mid June to go pretty much anywhere and money is not a huge concern. I would like the trip to have a climbing focus with the idea of my best bang for my buck. I have never climbed outside the contential US so I would like to go elsewhere. I am seeking adive for places to go during that time with either doing a all alpine trip ice/mixed... or a bunch of trad climbing on some longer single day multipitch routes.

Nice work looks like a sweet line

The beyondfleecs is sweet you can customize it and that makes the price different dpending if your want pockets in different spots. You can do it on the web and see what it looks like before you sumbit it to them to make for you.

Anyone wanna give me a belay. Or take me over there.

These were the guys that I was speaking of earlier when someone was asking about screamers. This is a small section of larger film they will be putting out next year showing all the tests they did on ice screws. They film will cover, stubbies, tied off screws, spectres, ice piton, with and w/out screamers. In all varied types of ice on locations form canmore, to ouray, to Hyalite.

Looks like that early season training has paid off. Way to go man.

Sicker

I second that nomination.

I tihnk that it is a true sign of intelligence and desire to climb more routes then the one that you are on. The Climb will always be there so come back for it later.

Hasn't you wife told you that it is your beard that adds a couple of years. Chop that thing off and come bar hoping with me. Scweet Tr that route makes for one of the best days of climbing that I have had and I am glad to see that it treated you as well.

First there are no sport routes in the gunks. Second the cliffs seap like no ones business. So if there is any rain then a lot of the routes are out of commuission. I would recomend: M.F. 5.9 Harvest Moon 5.11 Dangler kinda sucks Bonnies Roof 5.9 do the variation through the second pitch @ 5.10 High E

Often pillars are subject to changes in temperature more so then flowing ice. When the temp drops at night the ice shrinks sort of speak, as the day goes on and the temps increase the pillar warms up and the ice expands and therefore explains the loud crack. This often happens to pillars during a cold snap that get direct sunlight during the day. Good for you to back off of it, pillars that snap are scary shit.

Under the Western Hemisphere Travel Initiative (WHTI) The proposed implementation timeline has two phases: Beginning January 23, 2007, ALL persons, including U.S. citizens, traveling by air between the United States and Canada, Mexico, Central and South America, the Caribbean, and Bermuda will be required to present a valid passport, Air NEXUS card, or U.S. Coast Guard Merchant Mariner Document, or an Alien Registration Card, Form I-551, if applicable. As early as January 1, 2008, ALL persons, including U.S. citizens, traveling between the U.S. and Canada, Mexico, Central and South America, the Caribbean, and Bermuda by land or sea (including ferries), may be required to present a valid passport or other documents as determined by the Department of Homeland Security. While recent legislative changes permit a later deadline, the Departments of State and Homeland Security are working to meet all requirements as soon as possible. Ample advance notice will be provided to enable the public to obtain passports or passport cards for land/sea entries. Here http://travel.state.gov/travel/cbpmc/cbpmc_2223.html

For more info here is the thread on the montanaice.com website. http://www.montanaice.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=692

It has been my understanding that unless your protection is bomber you only want to clip one rope into the protection. If you clip both ropes the impact force is higher and therefore more likley to pull the protection. I use double ropes on ice and I climb with them both ways that you described, on meandering routeds I use one for the first half and the other for the next to reduce rope drag. On straight forward routes I just clip which ever one I grab first.

There's the spit and fire I am used to.

The other route on the baron falls tower was grade IV six pitchs and 5.10. So.... so they're both overgraded. They'd be III in Yos. or Canada Thats all you can come up with, you are getting soft,.

If you want great sport climbing that is near Las Vegas; the slimbing in St. George is great, two hours north of Las Vegas.

Three words are all that need to be said: Black Velvet Cannyon

Ummmmm Bubbas all you can eat Ribs $9.95 on Saturday can someone say food coma.

So I have a pair of Koflach Degre Boots Size 10. These boots are pretty beat up I am not going to lie. I bought them for $50 bucks and climbed a season of ice in them. They would be great for someone just starting out in ice. I bought them at REI gear sale. These are the new ones mine are about four years old. I am driving to oregon from montana on monday and would be willing to drop them off anywhere along the way I will be in pdx for x-mas break and u can pick them up then as well. I would like to get $30 out of them but I am sure we can work something out. I know how expensive ice climbing can be to get into.

Jens, I have found that by being taking a poractive stance you can prevent the pump. I shake out and drop my hand down to my knee whenever I get the chance. Also with leashless tools make use of the fact that they hook in ice so well that you don't need to swing as much. Futhermore, when you feel yourself getting pumped dig both of fron points in good place your tools above you right next to each other and try and put as much weight on your feet as possible. Keeping your arms straight so you are hanging on your bones. In this postion alternate switching hands and shaking thme out below you wasit. To stop your hand that is on the tool for getting over worked just put your finger tips around the shaft ( so you don't have a closed fist).

Wasn't trying to bag on John and Scott's effort or climb or trying to be armchair climber or whatever, but the route objectively doesn't appear to be Grade IV, given the info from their trip report. When you bag on someones climb at least get their name right it makes you look like spraying ass that has no idea what he is talking about. By the way my NAME is BRYAN SCHMITZ

So here is a classic example why time and number of pitchs don't matter. Description of Epinephrine: Called a grade V, Epi (5.9) is usually done in a long day. Swain describes the route in 18 pitches but with a 60m rope, a competent team can do it it 10-12 pitches. The most famous element of the climb is the 300 feet of 5.9 chimney. . Enjoy this one, it's listed as a North American Classic for a reason! I climbed this route in 10 pitchs and in 8 hours car to car when I was not near the physical or mental shape I was when John and I did Carpal Tunnel. So by G-Spotters standards maybe they should downgrade this All American Classic to a III. :tdown: Just my two cents but what do I know I am just a bumbling gumby anyways.

The other route on the baron falls tower was grade IV six pitchs and 5.10. So....