powderhound

Trip: The Wedge - Various Date: 5/1/2007 Trip Report: As the days count down to the end of the semester so does my time in Montana. Well at least until August, so I felt that it was only fitting to get in one last good trip in before I leave for the summer. My buddy Neal and I decided that we should make it a backpacking/climbing trip so off we were to the Wedge with high hopes of great rock and great weather. We always love climbing here because of the history involved and the ethics that are still in place, ground up bolting with a hand drill. Passive clean protection when ever possible. The Wedge: For information on routes please see A climbers guide to Butte, by Dwight Bishop. Here are some recommended routes with some photos for stoke: 5.7: Exit 99, take exit 99 variation to top for full value picture of Exit 99 Variation 5.8: Southwest face/Old Aid Line 5.9: West Face Direct to variation 3rd pitch of Mutt and Jeff. (this is one of the best lines on the wedge) The 1st pitch crosses the three cracks to the overhang directly above Neal. 5.10-5.11: Climb Dog Leg Montana's first 5.11, to the southwest face (link pitches 2 & 3 of southwest with a 70m), then take Bovine Intervention to the top (5.10c/d) slab. Pitch 1 5.11a Pitch 2 5.10 Pitch 4 Bovine Intervention: it is said that this route name is derived from a time when the dirty socks club tried to chase a cow down for food one time when they were out in the cabin before some hunters burned it down. 5.12 can't recommend because I don't climb 5.12 trad yet but there is one three pitch route out there with this rating. On the day we did the dog leg to bovine intervention route we left a little message in the summit register along with a little friend. The wedge's North and West Face Neal and Wendall Gear Notes: Standard rack up to 4 inch, doubles in everything from a #2 camalot through .5, brings at least a full set of nuts doubles in the small stuff, the passive pro is great. Dozen runners/dogbones. You only need one rope to rappel if you plan on going to the top every time, if not bring two. Note: if 1/4's scare you bring a couple of screamers. Approach Notes: I-15 south from Butte, take exit 99, to the Wedge trail head. Hike trail for 2 1/2 hours to base of wedge, you will know it when you see the real one. You will think that others are the Wedge but they are not. We found excellent camping in the big meadow bellow the wedge. Water can be found all along the trail and by the old climbers cabin at the base, make sure to bring a filtration system of iodine. Moose can be a problem so you may want to bring bear spray for them.

When I was at Castleton tower campground I went around asking for some and stumbled upon a guy in the back of a pickup who I did not know at the time was Mike Caldwell. When asked if he had any he replied, " Certainly don't.. not a user." That post by Chaps brought back this fond memory.

grade V's to be had for everyone!!!!

That is so damn tempting!!!! Be nice to have a pair of tools that will climb delicate ice better then my thuggish ergos.

John, you should get in your little truck and head over here, we can find some ice to throw those in.

Crack climbing is great for me because if I have my hand in a crack then it is like having an anchor with me the whole way up the climb. Also the use of tape often is determined by the type of rock. I don't use tape on sandstone like in Indian creek but at devils tower and the wedge where often the jams are very painful due to coarse rock and edges it seems more applicable so that you can climb longer.

Hand drill... hard men only!!!! Usually the first bolt is a good 15 feet off the deck and up to 20+. The ratings are mostly 5.10 and harder and up to an unfinished 5.13. Yeah apparently it is meant to be one of those areas where sport is actually sporty. They are great routes, long all over 100ft and vertical to past with edges the whole way. And I am a big fan of sporty sport routes, this last easter weekend I got on the route to the left of bloody fingers at the city of rocks called "my new toy" 100 ft four bolts 10bish it was fun, i like. Kurt if you are wondering it is the good rock out by the black magic wall and another reason the bolts are high is to try a stop people from Dry Tooling them.

Funny this came up. Recently we have had some bolting activity around bozeman that involves conrad. He is working on this area that is all basalt (not columns) edges, where you are only allowed to bolt ground up. There are some other rules I guess like on the first bolt you boulder up until you quiver and that is the high spot for the first bolt. Now before you bolt it, another person can challenge the route and by bouldering up higher and establishing a new high point for the route. It has turned out some pretty good routes as well as adding character to an area.

I have mixed thoughts on this. 1st: V-threads that are in nice dry hard ice and are made using at least 19cm screws are supper strong: more so than one screw. 2nd: Top roping off screws can be bad if you don't cover them with snow to help eliminate melt. You can do the same with V- threads and ensure their stability. 3rd: If they use a locking biner on the rope through the v-thread it should be no problem, you won't be subject to rope burn and if you are belaying correctly the v-thread will not take a dynamic load, therefore the forces exerted on the v-thread will be static and the strength of the v-thread should be more then necessary to handle this force. That being said, I would always add at least one screw usually two in separate areas of ice, staying with the standard of a three piece anchor.

I think I hear a ball dropping.

http://www.wrh.noaa.gov/forecast/MapClick.php?site=PIH&llon=-114.368747&rlon=-111.963747&tlat=43.594584&blat=41.192084&smap=1&mp=0&map.x=90&map.y=138 Look at this weather, you folks should come on over.

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/665907/page/1#Post665907

So off we head for this great Easter weekend to one of my favorite places to climb: The City of Rocks. So in Elmo they have a new outdoor hot spring. On saturday night everybody that is throwing down at the city should meet up at the hot spring, bring a nondiscript bottle filled with beverage of choice. I think that it cost like 5 bucks to get in, and it is a great way to support the thriving community of elmo. If it is closed we can do it at our campsite. We will try and get a campsite in the 20's, so look for a little dark green sidekick with OR plates and stickers on the back. Peace, Bryan Schmitz

Thanks for the recollection, bill. I always enjoy hearing about the history of development in areas, it gives them a certain character.

By far one of my new favorite quotes. "Way to put those tax dollars to use you shit dicks. Bang-up job."

results of photo contest?

Partying with some friends

the only reason you go to the can: METH

Not sure if a stiffie is a legitimate thing for a teacher to have during school, but I must heed your request.

the stanley bakery, yummy, yummy in my tummy

I am stoked. I thought that the housing market would never go down. I am just graduating from college and hope that within two years a bunch of this bullshit inflation leaves the housing market. I will be living in the South Bay area, so hopefully I can find some poor smuck that thought just because he was going to buy a house that it would appreciate faster then the rate at which the interest increased. Furthermore, with rates so low lots of people took out a second mortgage which is increasing the probability of foreclosure. This is a big plus for any college grads right now because within two to three years they will be in the position to take advantage of this fall.

I think that Tony lives here in bozeman, maybe I can get in touch with him and try and get some info to post.

pm sent

I have apari of BD sawtooths, they are simialr to the makos but they have a toe bail. the crampons are great and are solid and have been used to climb everything from short apporaches to WI6 and M6. I would sell them for $40 = shipping

Hows that extra room coming???? So as your accountant john I advise you to sell the house in P-town and buy me a nice little cottage in Stanley, I will help you with the write off.