powderhound

Bill just to put in perspective the 5.11 pitch was harder then that route that I did the day we climb that new route this summer at Rocky. (sorry I forgot the name) It is not like I don't know what 5.11 trad feels like. I spent all summer working and doing 5.11's.

I climb on ergos and when I first started I was a bit wary of using the upper choke up hold. But I would not want to climb ice without it. I have found the on hard ice where you may not have many options for pick placements that I can choke up loock off and gain a bit of heighth in my position allowing me to reach palcements I would have otherwise been unablt to get to. Also we traversing I find them invaluable. By matching on the upper hold and then switching tools I can by more efficent in my climbing and therefore spend less time dicking around.

Anywhere buy that shitty Red Rocks campground. The one at City of Rock has to be my favorite; climbing right at your campsite, secluded so you can do woop it up a little.

My thoughts and prayers are with those guys.

I have taken a fall on my blue zero and it held well. i bought some late this summer for the gunks and they worked like a charm. I place them before I place my aliens. Though I wish all mine had the longer stems. Bryan

Glad you guys are getting some. Thought that some of you might go crazy if you didn't climb ice soon. Way to go those routes look sweet, thinking of hitting it up on my way home to oregon. How far off I-90 is the area?

me first

Trip: Hyalite - Zack Attack Date: 12/8/2006 Trip Report: Climbed Zack Attack the other day. the climb has to be at the top of the list for my favorite ice climbs in hyalite. Found all the ice to be in great conditions except for the second pitch which was a bit brittle. Approach and view of the route Pitch 1 Pitch 2 Pitch 3 Pitch 4 Gear Notes: Standard set of screws depending on your preference. Assortment of pins, TCU's and a #2 Camalot Approach Notes: Solo G2 and just keep going

I am counting the days until finals are over if anyone cares. Five school days left then I am outta here bitches. So hard to concentrate with vision and thougths of pure blue ice dancing in my head.

I'll take a look at it when I head up there this January. Let you know what happens. I could add it to your great "hardest route to onsight" thread. Anyways does anyone have anybetter photos of this thing I only found a couple that were shitty were I googled it.

I finally see something that might be worth a dirve from Montana, to come climb.

I would give you thee beta but perhaps for you it is not so easy

They did a sneak peak for us at the Bozeman Ice Festival. they said the full lenghth will be out sometime next year.

Whatever dude... you know you only drink coffee at the coop in your patagonia down jacket, brand new pressed and ironed carhartts and matching beanie all while sharing beta on how rad G1 is Breakfast burritos and a sprayathon each morning is a great way to start. By the way I climbed at G1 last week. It was really all I could have hoped and dreamed for.

Whatever dude... you know you only drink coffee at the coop in your patagonia down jacket, brand new pressed and ironed carhartts and matching beanie all while sharing beta on how rad G1 is Breakfast burritos and a sprayathon each morning is a great way to start. By the way I climbed at G1 last week. It was really all I could have hoped and dreamed for.

the video is not on the internet. And this was the best expirenment that I have seen. The ie off were for what looked like 19cm BD express screws with about four inchs sticking out. They actually put screws in then got above the screws and let go, they had an computer guy on thier crew that had set up a load tester to see when the force occured and at which level. But the fact that a guy that weighs over 220 has taken over 20 falls on an 8.1mm on various ice conditions and screws is reasuring for me.

???? The mammut screamers just came out this year, and correct me if I am wrong but I don't think that there are any other dyneema screamers on the market.

what do you guys think about ether? anyone done it? Do it agian?

1st: i second the stanley baking company, they are the shit. It has been my expirence that in Bozeman: Rockfords coffee is the best followed Rocky Mountain Roasting. But you can never beat the .37 cent refill at the gas stations around here.

I saw a film the other day about a couple of guys from Whitefish Montana, that have been testing screws of all lengths and in all types of ice. They said to always use screamers and what they found was the best and safest way to take an ice fall is to try and make the fall last as long as possible. For a heavier guy (over 200)the group said they would not fall on ice on anything more then a 9mm. When they tested ting off; Any time they did not tie off the screw it blew, meaning they just clipped the hole instead. If they tied it off and it was in good ice it held. The guy did most of his falls on a 8.1mm ice floss and said it is now at 20+ falls and counting and he weighs over 220. The group explained in thier film that the main factor is not the lenghth of the screw or how it was placed, but the quality of the ice. If it is airated forget about it holding take the time to beat out the chandilers and find consolidated ice in the back. As far as screamers were concerned, he said on the computer models showed that when the load hit 500lbs the screamer engages and carrys the load at 500lbs until it completley rips and then the load heads back up again.

And I want a new house a new car a new set of ankles but sometimes things just are not in the cards.

R?????? Are you serious, only wanks add R to thier letter grade in ice. I have never seen an R rating for ice even in the winter dance guide on some nasty WI7+ alex routes, that I know he didn't get ANY gear in for a long ways. Get real man and stop the recockulous hype.

Screw the fusion picks put those laser picks on there much better.

Thanks I could not use the wsj search engine very well.

To climb, anywhere in Cuba