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Everything posted by powderhound
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Trip: Tuolumne Meadows - Hoodwink & Inverted Staircase Date: 7/6/2007 Trip Report: So my first trip to Yosemite didn't include any climbing their. Instead I ended up climbing in the meadows to get away from the heat and people. We started with Hoodwink a 6 pitch 5.10a put up by Jim Birdwell. I highly recommend this route. We did the first two pitchs in one and then broke the arch in one and the out the rook another. I would recommend this due to massive rope drag. The roof felt like I was climbing in the gunks in steepness and rating. So here are some pics. The route follows the crack on the left side of the arch and exits the arch 1/3 of the way through it. Pitch 1&2 Pitch 3 Looking out the Roof Working my way out Ended the day with a classic sport climb "Orange Plasma" Day two I was looking for some real Alpine training so i decided to climb Fairview Dome, the largest in the meadows. This climb was a lot less straightforward and tested our ability to continue to move quickly. Inverted Staricase (the R pitch made my stomach jump and the last pitch of so called 5.8 is a bunch of crap.) The Inverted Staricase Pitch 5 View of the area from the top Cheers, P.S. Additional Photo stoke from other summer trips: Paradise Forks, AZ : One fo the coolest trad areas I have been too, kinda magical. James Cannyon, AZ, Flagstaff area: A little Swim for my buddy Pat Log Slide Cliff Jump Gear Notes: Doubles on 1-3 BD and good set of nuts, 8 or so runners Approach Notes: All close less then 15 minutes off the road
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[TR] Sawtooths - Elephant's Perch - Sunrise Book 7/5/2007
powderhound replied to castlecrag's topic in Idaho
Getting into that boat is a feeling all in its own, sounds like a sweet route. -
Alpiners Anonymous: PDX dry tool night
powderhound replied to John Frieh's topic in Climbing Partners
"I talked with my firends cousin, who said he was speaking with his girlfriends brother who knew this guy that saw him pass out a 31 flavors last night. " It may not be verbatim, but it will work off the top of my head. Bill I would kindly give you a belay, but I am just not in the area. If you wanna come down and climb the tallest mt in the lower 48 with me on saturday I can pick you up from the san jose airport. -
Looking for someone in Cali to go to Whitney this weekend with. Car to car, most likley something on the east face thats easy 5.9 or less. Leave car early saturday morning and come out saturday evening.
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[TR] Sawtooths - Elephant's Perch - Sunrise Book 7/5/2007
powderhound replied to castlecrag's topic in Idaho
Did you take any whippers out there!!! -
[TR] Chipmunk Perch - 4 Horsemen/East Ridge 7/1/2007
powderhound replied to John Frieh's topic in Idaho
Thought you gave up coffee??? Hope you have a lot of time off in August cause the sawtooths are going to be our home from Aug14-30th anyone wanna join? -
I might not be able to use it until latter this summer, but I would like to thank bill, ivan and JH, and anyone I left out, for all there time and effort spent getting beacon open. You all had other obligations but, you put forth the commitment to complete a selfless act, and for that, next time I see you its a on me. Thanks, Bryan
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All of you guys up in the north cascades hurry up and partner up so my partner request gets filled. Or if you want to have a better time let me know.
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Did I mention hot springs and the Stanley bakery??
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Leaving from pdx area and heading to the Sawtooths, climbing some established and perhaps some unestablished. Looking to a partner to share gas and leads with. Required to lead 5.10 consistently in the alpine. Bryan Schmitz
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I did it when I was 16 wish I would have done more before I left.
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Looking for gear in slightly used but overall good condition: Downsleeping Bag: Short, around 30 degree, and under 2lbs Collapsable backpacking pans Small Stove, nothing speacial, doesn't need to preform in high altitude Prefer Email: bryan_schmitzATyahoo.com
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Woodburn Outlet Mall, Columbia Sportware outlet Boot normally retails for$235, Not sure how many sizes they have but you can't really pass up this deal Boot Information
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I'll bring the tape...now who else wants to come.
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Alpiners Anonymous: PDX dry tool night
powderhound replied to John Frieh's topic in Climbing Partners
I'll make hand gloves for anybody that comes,I will be using them as well. -
[TR] Menagerie - Rooster Rock - Callis SE Face 5/25/2007
powderhound replied to corvallisclimb's topic in Oregon Cascades
I actually spoke with Callis about the routes he put up at skinners and in this area this last semester. He was telling me he was like 18 at the time. That guy pretty much brought ice climbing to bozeman, now look where it is at. I think he is in his seventies now and he still cranks and puts up new routes, last year I saw him on Zack Attack Someone once told me that he established the first grade six in Yosemite but I am not sure if that is accurate. -
Actually she is but not sure if you would want to date a chick that can climb harder than you.
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Heading to trout creek this SUNDAY if the weather holds, alpine start; minus the apline. Climb a shit load of splitters and then drive back sunday night, I have some room in my car, looking for a couple more cams and maybe some gas$. Must be able to follow 5.10 trad consistently and provide all the females and brews for after.
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Alpiners Anonymous: PDX dry tool night
powderhound replied to John Frieh's topic in Climbing Partners
Count me in!!!!!! Time???? Place???? -
I was under the impression that Anker promised Jenny that he would not go on any 8000m peaks.
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Not True.... It was closed due to its proximity to the California Trail which runs right next to it. Furthermore a study was done to asses the impact climbers have on the area. The study found that climbers have little impact, yet the area still remains closed. You can climb on some of the formations by the twin sister, such as the BLM wall. Currently the access fund is suing, trying to regain access.
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send a pm to AFIVE, he might be able to help you out
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Interesting statement concerning the availability of this: http://www.firstascentpress.com/butte-guide.html
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So hears the deal: I am going to leave Bozeman, MT on Sunday the 13th of May and drive to devils tower. Here I plan on climbing there for two days, then rest day in the Needles, then two more days at the tower. Leaving Friday night, and then driving through to PDX. At the tower we have a place to stay in the park for free(in franks woods). Now if anyone wants to come and slay some of the best crack climbing around. You could get a one way to Bozeman on Sunday and then ride back with me to PDX. Or fly out climb fly back, or drive. Whatevers clever. Send me a PM.
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Believe what you want. I'll keep it to myself, besides why climb this when you can go climb in southern cali, less people there anyways.