powderhound

My thoughts and prayers are with those guys.

I have taken a fall on my blue zero and it held well. i bought some late this summer for the gunks and they worked like a charm. I place them before I place my aliens. Though I wish all mine had the longer stems. Bryan

Glad you guys are getting some. Thought that some of you might go crazy if you didn't climb ice soon. Way to go those routes look sweet, thinking of hitting it up on my way home to oregon. How far off I-90 is the area?

Trip: Hyalite - Zack Attack Date: 12/8/2006 Trip Report: Climbed Zack Attack the other day. the climb has to be at the top of the list for my favorite ice climbs in hyalite. Found all the ice to be in great conditions except for the second pitch which was a bit brittle. Approach and view of the route Pitch 1 Pitch 2 Pitch 3 Pitch 4 Gear Notes: Standard set of screws depending on your preference. Assortment of pins, TCU's and a #2 Camalot Approach Notes: Solo G2 and just keep going

I am counting the days until finals are over if anyone cares. Five school days left then I am outta here bitches. So hard to concentrate with vision and thougths of pure blue ice dancing in my head.

I'll take a look at it when I head up there this January. Let you know what happens. I could add it to your great "hardest route to onsight" thread. Anyways does anyone have anybetter photos of this thing I only found a couple that were shitty were I googled it.

I finally see something that might be worth a dirve from Montana, to come climb.

I would give you thee beta but perhaps for you it is not so easy

They did a sneak peak for us at the Bozeman Ice Festival. they said the full lenghth will be out sometime next year.

Whatever dude... you know you only drink coffee at the coop in your patagonia down jacket, brand new pressed and ironed carhartts and matching beanie all while sharing beta on how rad G1 is Breakfast burritos and a sprayathon each morning is a great way to start. By the way I climbed at G1 last week. It was really all I could have hoped and dreamed for.

Whatever dude... you know you only drink coffee at the coop in your patagonia down jacket, brand new pressed and ironed carhartts and matching beanie all while sharing beta on how rad G1 is Breakfast burritos and a sprayathon each morning is a great way to start. By the way I climbed at G1 last week. It was really all I could have hoped and dreamed for.

the video is not on the internet. And this was the best expirenment that I have seen. The ie off were for what looked like 19cm BD express screws with about four inchs sticking out. They actually put screws in then got above the screws and let go, they had an computer guy on thier crew that had set up a load tester to see when the force occured and at which level. But the fact that a guy that weighs over 220 has taken over 20 falls on an 8.1mm on various ice conditions and screws is reasuring for me.

???? The mammut screamers just came out this year, and correct me if I am wrong but I don't think that there are any other dyneema screamers on the market.

what do you guys think about ether? anyone done it? Do it agian?

1st: i second the stanley baking company, they are the shit. It has been my expirence that in Bozeman: Rockfords coffee is the best followed Rocky Mountain Roasting. But you can never beat the .37 cent refill at the gas stations around here.

I saw a film the other day about a couple of guys from Whitefish Montana, that have been testing screws of all lengths and in all types of ice. They said to always use screamers and what they found was the best and safest way to take an ice fall is to try and make the fall last as long as possible. For a heavier guy (over 200)the group said they would not fall on ice on anything more then a 9mm. When they tested ting off; Any time they did not tie off the screw it blew, meaning they just clipped the hole instead. If they tied it off and it was in good ice it held. The guy did most of his falls on a 8.1mm ice floss and said it is now at 20+ falls and counting and he weighs over 220. The group explained in thier film that the main factor is not the lenghth of the screw or how it was placed, but the quality of the ice. If it is airated forget about it holding take the time to beat out the chandilers and find consolidated ice in the back. As far as screamers were concerned, he said on the computer models showed that when the load hit 500lbs the screamer engages and carrys the load at 500lbs until it completley rips and then the load heads back up again.

R?????? Are you serious, only wanks add R to thier letter grade in ice. I have never seen an R rating for ice even in the winter dance guide on some nasty WI7+ alex routes, that I know he didn't get ANY gear in for a long ways. Get real man and stop the recockulous hype.

Screw the fusion picks put those laser picks on there much better.

Thanks I could not use the wsj search engine very well.

To climb, anywhere in Cuba

Yesterday I noticed a picture of a climber on the front on the Wall Street Journal. This in something I would never thought would make its way to the WSJ. The article went on to talk about how you have to have a permit form the government but anyone who has applied for one since 2003 has been denied. I looked for the article on WSJ.com but could not find it. Apparently the goverment is scared that the climbers are conspiring aginst the government up on the cliffs.

Nate can you send me some pics of me to bryan_schmitz@yahoo.com

The spray begins, List: Bobo Like Killer Pillar The Good Looking One Scepter Matrix Feeding the Cat Black Magic

Not skiing lifts, just climbing ice, nuff said.

The Scepter in Hyalite: Yesterday, why wait....