powderhound

http://www.myspace.com/m9ice kinda of a cool site with some clips and pics that I ran across

Never climbed on these U bolt things

Looking for darts or maybe the sarkens if anyone has a pair that they might want to get rid of for some reason.

I am in Minnesota right now and it seems cold enough for the garbage pillar to form again.

Keep your eyeys and ears open I think that there might be some farmed ice out there in in eastern oregon somewhere?

I will be back in Oregon for the Holiday after spending the last couple months out east and would be down for some Gnarl. Look me up.

Since were placing bolts can I bring my tools and crampons?

The only thing that I can recommend for ole smoothie, is high tops, jeans, and taped ankles. John, you should just use some of those frequent flying miles and go to the creek for a couple of days, you'll get dialed on offwidths and chimney's there. Plus it will get you out of the rain in the north west and down to the desert where it will be perfect sending temps.

one more in the tetons

Trip: Sawtooths: Baron Spire - FA: tallboys and breakfast burritos III 5.10c Date: 8/29/2007 Trip Report: After completing a route on Ne'er-do-well, we took a rest/scope day. We spent a couple hours checking out all of our options and weighing them with our goals and desired style. The south east face of baron spire caught our eye due to its proxiemty to camp and a prearranged descent. Plus we were stoked to get to use the 1940's beckey bolt ladder up the summit block. Unlike "a bum's rush" we were both feeling a bit apprehinsive about some of the areas on the intended line. the south and east face of baron spire and baron spire lake Tallboys and Breakfast Burritos III 5.10c 5 pitchs 800 or so feet follows chimney and splitter crack right of center highlighted w/ the black line Pitchs two and three worried us in particular because we only had one three and it looked like a good bit of wide hands and then the porblem of having the gear to build a solid anchor was even more in our minds. However it all worked out and went flawlessly. Here you can see the overhanging flared chimney to the splitter hand and the Y in the crack where split off right. The large patch of shrubs were impassable. pitch one: 5.8 start in the white dihedral below the chimney with a butterknife flake 2/3rds up the pitch. Use face holds and scrap out grass and plug in gear until you reach the flake take the right side and follow sweet hand crack up to base of chimney. pitch two: 5.10c fight your way up the flared chimney with the varied crack in the back up and into the splitter wide hand crack. belay just below Y junction here Trevor Bowman begins what he calls one of the most unique and best single pitchs he has done in the alpine. i carried that statement with some weight considering he didn't work all summer and just climbed in the alpine. He likened it to a 5 star pitch in Yosemite. pitch three: 5.10a begin by using both cracks and then transfer to the right crack and pull the technical overhang, continue up the slot throguh some vege and out right around the corner to the chimney system. Belay on the ledge. pitch four: 5.8 take the right side following the inside left facing dihedral. Take to the summit ledge. pitch five: A1or2 1949 beckey bolt ladder, here is what summit post says about it: The peak sees a few climbers each year and some of those never see the true summit- they free climb the rock routes but just under the true summit, they are often spooked by the overhanging bolt ladder. The ladder was put in by climbing legend Fred Beckey in 1949, hence the name the Beckey Bolt Ladder. He, Pete Schoening and Jack Schwabland spent three days engineering the 22 bolt ladder on the corner of the summit block. Their climb nearly ended in disaster as a severe storm hit the area. They made an epic descent to avoid a very uncomfortable bivy. It was reported by Schwabland that the rock was running with water and all the holds were packed with hail. Lightning struck within two hundred feet several times. They somehow made it down and back to camp. The condition of these bolts varies, as some of the originals are still there. Aid climbing doesn't look hard to the casual observer, but it's tough to learn on an overhang near the top of a summit like this. The Beckey Ladder is said to go between A1-A2. All routes converge on the west side of the summit block and must ascend the Beckey Ladder to truly make the summit. Sorry no summit photos, battery ran out before the ladder which was in my buddy' words "biblical" Don't think anyone else had been up there for a little while. We replaced all the webbing on the rap down the east face. we ended the day by coming down, packing up camp, and hiking the seven miles out to the boat dock. We did this so we could grab the first boat out and get a good ole tall boy at the marina and then head in the stanley bakery and order a huge burrito filled with heaven. Gear Notes: same rack as for a bums rush with same recomendation Approach Notes: I would stay at the baron spire lake and hike west up the hill side to the base of the south east face. The chimney is obvious

Trip: Sawtooths: Peak 9211 (Ne'er-do-well) East Face, - FA: A Bums Rush III 5.11- Date: 8/26/2007 Trip Report: This August Trevor Bowman and I spent a little bit of time in the Sawooths, here we stumbled upon this great face near little baron lake. Peak 9211' is not known to have been climbed via a technical route. If no other ascent exsit we would like to give it the "climbers guide" name Ne'er-do-well; a slang on never do well, meaning: A self-indulgent person who spends time avoiding work or other useful activity The East Face of Ne'er-do-well Peak We picked a line up the center face up to the main break 4/5th's the way up and then took the only obvious line up the upper headwall. A Bums Rush: 5 Pitchs, 265meters + 200m of 3rd/4th class to summit Pitch One: 5.7 55m Start in a R trending crack about 40' uphill (left) of the most obvious diagonal crack. Follow this to a L facing dihedral to a good leadge w/ 2 trees. Pitch Two: 5.9 65m Continue straight up the R leaning thin crack past two small buldges and wander up a left (5.6/7ish) then back right and up a cupped hands crack to a ledgyish area. looking down at pitch two as trevor pulls the bludges and begins the sweet moderate climbing Pitch Three: 5,8 60m Follow the big corner system up cracks and dihedrals to a good ledge this photo shows trevor wandering up to no-where land for thirty feet to a table sized flake that gave him shivers. He downclimbed the like 5.9ish corner and traversed right to the ocbvious big corner system. We are recomending to go straight to the corner system. Pitch Four: 5.7 20m Take a R leaning flared chimneyto the major upper ledge that cuts below the upper headwall. Pitch Five: 5.11a 65m Sorry No Pics for this wild pitch Start up a blocky corner to a short awkward chimney 5.9 (get gear in when you can). Continue up splitter 4" -3" crack 5.10 to alcove. Make the strenous slightly overhanging hand traverse (no feet out of the alcove to the left(5.11a), continue up the 3" crack to a short chimney finish(5.9). Take 200m of 3rd and 4th class wandering up blocks + slabs to thew summit. With the Chockstone splitter Gear Notes: Large set of Nuts and pea nuts (the toofs take them so well) single set of small cams doubles .5BD-#2bd 1 of #3 bd. ( you may want to take 2 #3's) Cord cause there all gear anchors Approach Notes: Take same descent as carpal tunnel

Who wants to bet that its the locals that might give it the pros. I know a couple of kids a little older then me that no one has ever heard of and they tear it up.

Who wants to bet that its the locals that might give it the pros. I know a couple of kids a little older then me that no one has ever heard of and they tear it up.

Its still rock time

I'll be in the Red River Gorge on Monday, 1000's of routes, bolts, gear, mixed...everything in all grades. Time to hang out and crag and finally learn how to climb. Maybe I'll give it a shot when I get back. It looks like a sweet route and its motivating to see PDX'ers getting after it.

So.....it looks like places are offering sales on the bd express screws. Does anyone have any info on if they are giving them an update and running with a new design for this winter.

that guide has been sweet so far, the section informing of where the sun is and at what time, really helps with keeping a good temp. On another note: I have a buddy that has published two guides in WY, and one of the #1 rules is that someone and maybe a bunch of peps will get pissed and underestimate the time and resources expended getting a book put together.

Its to bad the photo doesn't show the bad ass rock section below him. http://www.bdel.com/pdf/BD_F07_ICE_FINAL_LO.pdf Good to see pete repen his hood

Just got back from eight days at devils tower. Nothing like getting spanked to get my ass back into cragging shape. Here is me on the Hong Variation to the McCarthy's West Face. This pitch seemed grades apart from the one directly above even though they were only a letter. Should have some FA TR's soon for my trips in the Toofs and Teton's if I get my shit together.

Just got back from eight days at devils tower. Nothing like getting spanked to get my ass back into cragging shape. Here is me on the Hong Variation to the McCarthy's West Face. This pitch seemed grades apart from the one directly above even though they were only a letter. Should have some FA TR's soon for my trips in the Toofs and Teton's if I get my shit together.

Like to see that someone is getting it done this summer.

Did you see the Gay Robot up there? The Gay Robot though that route was sweet shit. Definetley the best moderate alpine classic in the toofs. He plucked a nice number 1 Cam from that flake pitch too.

And who appointed you rule maker?????

why would you ever want to go to warbonnet?

How do you figure? Because bill was climbing when there were no cams, and as such has been using them since they came into existence. Therefore, most likely has a bit more cam placing experience then the rest of us. The more you do something the better you get at it, and the better you become at judging quality when you see it.