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jonmf76

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About jonmf76

  • Rank
    n00b

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  • Occupation
    Guide
  • Location
    Alaska
  1. Clipping into the belay?

    I've spent over 30 years using the clove hitch to clip in with no problems ever. It is simple, it works, it's adjustable and the most important thing...IT'S SIMPLE! There are no rules. Always make your own as you go. ALWAYS think for yourself. That's what makes a leader.
  2. La Sportiva Makalus, Blisters, and "Breaking In"

    sounds more like your feet are the ones needing to be broken in..
  3. Must Have Denali Gear

    - cell phone (some spots get perfect reception 16,200, decent at 14k, etc..) - FM radio for the hours stuck in tent. - crazy creek chair - stove board (1/4" plywood sheet w/ or w/o metal on one side) - -40 down gore-tex bag. no point in being cold if you don't have to. - down pants if you can spare the weight and space. saves calories and misery. - down jacket goes without saying - book? trade with others en route? 1 qt nalgene's with insulated covers for putting in your sleeping bag at night filled with boiling water. one at your ankles, one at your gut. there's plenty more...
  4. Tying a knot in the rappel rope

    I have been teaching students to tie a knot in the end of their rap rope and they all just laugh (other instructors included), even though rapping off the end of the rope seems like it might be the most common cause of death in climbing. Maybe living just isn't that cool...it must be cooler to fall off the end of your rope.
  5. Dying is NOT worth it.

    You guys are clearly a bunch of dumb pussies. 30 of you looked at this post and not one of you had an original thought on the topic. Is everyone on this board an asshole for a specific reason or were you just born that way?
  6. The most important course is never taught.

    Phil, Again, you missed the point. I DON'T feel that way, but you go tell anyone in the climbing world that you didn't make the summit of a mountain, and that is the response you will get..
  7. Dying is NOT worth it.

    Phil, You missed the point.
  8. Over the years of slide shows and talks I have given, it has occured to me that the most important course has never been taught. And that is specifically about when to retreat from a climb. Retreating has been made into an embarrassment, when it is actually sound judgement and climbing wisdom in action. "Oh, you didn't summit? Too bad your climb was a failure.." OK, talk amongst yourselves..
  9. Dying is NOT worth it.

    21-ML-47497-ML- The OP took it down to Spray level on his third post...
  10. Dying is NOT worth it.

    OK, all the recent deaths in the climbing world, combined with my own personal experiences got me to thinking about how far we are all willing to go for a route. Having seen corpses on mountains and in the wilderness and coming close to becoming one myself a number of times has changed my entire view of my climbing and my pursuits as a climber. Is it worth it coming that close to death? I don't think so anymore. I like living. I like life. "They died doing what they loved" This, to me, is a weak excuse for taking too much risk. And yes, there is such a thing as too much risk. When you don't come back from a trip, you've crossed that line. So how many of you have actually seen corpses on mountains or rivers, etc. and how has it changed your approach, if at all? And are you secure enough to admit it? Why is it considered cool to die doing what you love? In the old days, it wasn't considered cool to die climbing. We did every route in as precise control as we could, with the ultimate goal of getting back down. I remember Climbing Magazine had a miniscule Obituary page 20 yrs. ago. In the late 80's and early 90's it seemed to bloom into a long list, mostly of guys found dead at the bottom of a cliff from free soloing falls. So why has falling to your death become glamorous? And please, drop the juvenile personal attacks. They serve no purpose.
  11. Katahdin Beta Request

    Winter, Ya, Katahdin is somewhat famous back east for being on of the few mountains requiring permits/paperwork to be allowed access, especially in winter, due to its relative remoteness (as well as the excess of city boneheads.) If I remember right, there is a classic knife edge rock traverse route that has always looked incredible in the pictures. I can't remember the name of it, but I am sure the Apppalachian Mountain Club and/or their guidebook to Katahdin will show you the info in detail. http://www.amazon.com/Katahdin-Guide-Baxter-Park/dp/0974167762 I don't think the traverse is a tech route, but for a "hike" it sure looks like one.
  12. Boots for Denali

    Scarpa Invernos with both high altitude liner and the regular one. The most comfortable double plastic I have ever worn.
  13. Favorite Altimeter Watch

    I am on my 7th Suunto Vector, but I love it. The only problem is that it is quite large and catches on stuff all the time. I beat the crap out of them and they lose their seal and get all steamy inside. It is super accurate though...to 10'
  14. Bivi Sack recommendations

    One of the ones with a loop pole can make a sack a lot more bearable. If weight is your primary concern then they aren't as good, but if you've ever slept in one in a storm completely sealed, you'll appreciate the space around your face. Talk about claustrophobia! Velcro closures are really nice when you want to get out fast and you're covered in a layer of ice from the previous night's freezing rain then snow..
  15. Avy Beacon vs PLB

    Just get the ACR personal locator beacon (406 MhZ) located here: http://www.acrterrafix.com/ Your family wants you to be able to get rescued if you break your leg way out there snowshoeing, right? BTW, get the Terrafix with the built in GPS. It is about $100 more, but it pinpoints your location more accurately. Avalanche beacons are only useful if you are traveling in a group where the others have one and can attempt to find you buried under the snow within the first few minutes after an avalanche. Otherwise, they don't call 911 for you..Conversely, the PLB won't do much for you if you are buried in a pile of snow either.
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