corvallisclimb

cipro all the way dude! and smoke a lot of the cheap tobacco... peruvian cocaine has gotta be the real deal for head aches

If no one else is doing it why shouldnt you be able to go up there and put up some dry tooling routes... after all your the one with the balls to do it. Ruining existing routes is one thing, but there shouldnt be anything stopping you from doing something new there, free, aid or drytool aid. There are 4 existing routes there: West Chimney "Alpenjager" - 5.4/5.5 NE Face "Zucchini Route" - 5.6 A2 or 5.10 Ripping RURP (variation to the zucchini route) - 5.10c A2+ X Jewl in the Crown - 5.12 sport Good luck and hopefully you pull off something bad ass! BTW send me a pm with wich cds I gave you, I'm slowly but surley finishing your cds up. But have been pretty damn busy job hunting and climbing and stuff.

right on chris, your new book should be good! your last one is a peice of work. no one fuckin posts anything in this form anyway, and when someone does post something of use the elitist cascadeclimbers have to come in and spray! to that

fuck yeah mike!

im going to throw steve schnieder out there sport 5.14s trad 5.13 i belive A5 big walls in patagonia three towers traverse freed el cap multiple routes first to solo the nose in day off width master 2 hard FAs up el cap 2nd ascent bachar-yerain ice climber and mixed climber done a fair bit of alpine mabey not the best, but definatly well rounded

20 dollars a pound!!! 3 dollars a kilo in patagonia

wow

Venezuela

i suck

ya, im not going to smith, just need a place as close to bend as possible. and all of my friends there have left for "spring break".

headed to bend tonight but need a place to stay. are there any local camp grounds? or someone feelin nice and want to share a room? any help would be much appricated.

i will probably be up in portland twmorrow and am looking for a partner for something... alpine, rock, smith anywhere really... for the weekend. if any one needs a partner for something shoot me a pm.

kingsmm: all of the anchors are pretty old and rusted, most with old hangers. the routes generally seem to be rather run out with older bolts all placed from lead stance. rawhide is a wild climb with intimidating exposure at the crux.

ireneo: 2 bolts on slabs then a fixed pin on the crux section, definaly one hell of a climb

fgw, closed until june or july 15th

Climb: Menagerie- Date of Climb: 3/11/2005 Trip Report:

mainly my goal would be to make sure the anchors are solid

lost arrow: his name isnt mauricio, and i dont think hes ever worked an aconcagua trip alpinfox: working as a guide for small groups for trekking and kayaking, portering for large trekking groups and wound up voulenteer fire fighting for 5 days

Climb: patagonia-photos Date of Climb: 12/17/2005 Trip Report: I arrived in Puerto Natales, Chile to work as in Torres Del Paine National Park, as I had done the year before. Things all went as planned except for a broken foot, broken rib, drunken nights in whore houses, and a forest fire... I worked and was able to have time off to take some good trips to Argentine Patagonia. Untill there was a fire in the national park, wich thus became closed and I was out of work, for the meantime. I didnt want to sit around and waste my money drinking and buying food so I came home early. I took some pictures a long the way, thought I wish I had taken my camera a lot more, here they are... first i kicked my first day off cragging on the shitty sandstone close to town, not knowing i'd break a foot, but that wasnt to be the only break on the trip. in this photo is restovich leadin up this crack with a rotten bolt at the top. this is elsa she broke here finger when top roping that same route and a 60lb block broke off carlitos on a shitty 3 pitch sport climb restovich belaying sat around for almost two weeks, worked a trip then went to argentina to try and climb a route on media de luna behind el mocho, 9 days at base camp no weather luck, so i had to go back to work, these pictures are from this trip small break in weather on the second day bouldering close to base camp heather baer, fredrico pizani, steve schnider and dean potter discuss the weather base camp fun dean potters revenge against the huber brothers from one attempt on the route alex huber on the dead cow boulder close to the town bean bowers on the dead cow boulder steve and his wife went back to work a while again took one picture, this is of el cuerno pricipal in paine with two people i worked with went back to chalten argentina, to just crag around for a few days. the weather would have been amazing for anything on fitz roy or cerro torre. wich there was much success on. we climbed what we belived to be a new route outside of chalten and cliped some bolts. daniel on the 1st pitch of our route 5.7 us on the belay ledge martin clippen up a 6b perfect weather on the drive in then a tourist started a fire in the national park wich was then closed for 6 days wich resulted in a cancelation of two groups of mine. running low on money i decided to come home early. i have some pictures of the fire i can post when i scan them. Gear Notes: all sorts Approach Notes: all sorts

any other beta for the turkey as an aid climb? i would like to climb it and replace the bolts and what not... pins hooks... whats in the rack, what are the pitches like. thanks

I just returned from slaving away three 14 hour days in a row fighting a fire in Torres Del Paine National Park in Chile. The fire was started by an American tourist with an MSR stove... as of now I belive 25,000 hectars have been burnt and the fire is still going strong due to winds. The tourist was charged 100 dollars at the time of his departure from the park when the fire was thought to be easily controlled, and then fled to the United States. And we are out the working our asses off for nothing but free food, for this guys stupid mistake. Now I´m out of work and have to come home due to the park being evacuated for who knows how long. Due to the lack of trained fire fighters in the region us voulenteers where on the front lines of the fire, face to face with 40 foot flames. Not to mention on my 19th birthday, shouldnt I be out getting drunk as shit ? Two trekkers in the park where killed due to smoke inhilation. I figured this was something worthy to post, as how much one persons stupid actions can effect so many people. I´m waiting to get called back there right now to go do it again... Also an American climber Henery Edwards was killed by rock fall last thursday on the Col Bitch between the Torre Central and the Torre Norte(for any one farmillar with Paine), in the National Park. So thats this weeks shitty news from Patagonia.

cool dude : )

yeah ill be here for most of march... where are you headed?

Climb: Some rocks in Chalten, Argerntina-2 new routes Date of Climb: 2/4/2005 Trip Report: I took another trip to Chalten, Argentina with my roomate Daniel and we climbed what we belived to be 2 new routes on some rocks about an hour and a half walk from town. The first route was about 80 meters wich consisted of 2 pitches of 5.7 with shitty pro, grey and purple tcus and small nuts. The anchors turned out to be bomber and we where able to walk off as we topped out on a ridge. We called the route Black Jack after the 3 dollar liter of whiskey we had purchased. The second route was a 35 meter aid climb, wich involved extremely thin seams with some manky tied off blades, and back cleaning my lone rurp, though i was able to get in a bomber LA to avoid ground fall, also had to do 2 bat hook moves in a row, wich was my first time hand drilling of hooks quite fun i guess. I was also able to walk off of this climb. Its been quite the season in Argentine Patagonia, multiple new routes up Fitz Roy, a team of Slovokians traversed it, and a new Canadian route was put up as well. 2 parties where able to climb Cerro Torre and Fitz Roy with in a month. Thats the news from Patagonia. Gear Notes: Black Jack: Small Cams and Nuts, and large cams for the belays. Aid Line: assorted thin pins, rups, hooks and small HB offsets Approach Notes: about and hour and a half hike through a whole lot off prickly plants