corvallisclimb

Climb: Menagerie- Date of Climb: 3/11/2005 Trip Report:

mainly my goal would be to make sure the anchors are solid

lost arrow: his name isnt mauricio, and i dont think hes ever worked an aconcagua trip alpinfox: working as a guide for small groups for trekking and kayaking, portering for large trekking groups and wound up voulenteer fire fighting for 5 days

Climb: patagonia-photos Date of Climb: 12/17/2005 Trip Report: I arrived in Puerto Natales, Chile to work as in Torres Del Paine National Park, as I had done the year before. Things all went as planned except for a broken foot, broken rib, drunken nights in whore houses, and a forest fire... I worked and was able to have time off to take some good trips to Argentine Patagonia. Untill there was a fire in the national park, wich thus became closed and I was out of work, for the meantime. I didnt want to sit around and waste my money drinking and buying food so I came home early. I took some pictures a long the way, thought I wish I had taken my camera a lot more, here they are... first i kicked my first day off cragging on the shitty sandstone close to town, not knowing i'd break a foot, but that wasnt to be the only break on the trip. in this photo is restovich leadin up this crack with a rotten bolt at the top. this is elsa she broke here finger when top roping that same route and a 60lb block broke off carlitos on a shitty 3 pitch sport climb restovich belaying sat around for almost two weeks, worked a trip then went to argentina to try and climb a route on media de luna behind el mocho, 9 days at base camp no weather luck, so i had to go back to work, these pictures are from this trip small break in weather on the second day bouldering close to base camp heather baer, fredrico pizani, steve schnider and dean potter discuss the weather base camp fun dean potters revenge against the huber brothers from one attempt on the route alex huber on the dead cow boulder close to the town bean bowers on the dead cow boulder steve and his wife went back to work a while again took one picture, this is of el cuerno pricipal in paine with two people i worked with went back to chalten argentina, to just crag around for a few days. the weather would have been amazing for anything on fitz roy or cerro torre. wich there was much success on. we climbed what we belived to be a new route outside of chalten and cliped some bolts. daniel on the 1st pitch of our route 5.7 us on the belay ledge martin clippen up a 6b perfect weather on the drive in then a tourist started a fire in the national park wich was then closed for 6 days wich resulted in a cancelation of two groups of mine. running low on money i decided to come home early. i have some pictures of the fire i can post when i scan them. Gear Notes: all sorts Approach Notes: all sorts

any other beta for the turkey as an aid climb? i would like to climb it and replace the bolts and what not... pins hooks... whats in the rack, what are the pitches like. thanks

I just returned from slaving away three 14 hour days in a row fighting a fire in Torres Del Paine National Park in Chile. The fire was started by an American tourist with an MSR stove... as of now I belive 25,000 hectars have been burnt and the fire is still going strong due to winds. The tourist was charged 100 dollars at the time of his departure from the park when the fire was thought to be easily controlled, and then fled to the United States. And we are out the working our asses off for nothing but free food, for this guys stupid mistake. Now I´m out of work and have to come home due to the park being evacuated for who knows how long. Due to the lack of trained fire fighters in the region us voulenteers where on the front lines of the fire, face to face with 40 foot flames. Not to mention on my 19th birthday, shouldnt I be out getting drunk as shit ? Two trekkers in the park where killed due to smoke inhilation. I figured this was something worthy to post, as how much one persons stupid actions can effect so many people. I´m waiting to get called back there right now to go do it again... Also an American climber Henery Edwards was killed by rock fall last thursday on the Col Bitch between the Torre Central and the Torre Norte(for any one farmillar with Paine), in the National Park. So thats this weeks shitty news from Patagonia.

cool dude : )

yeah ill be here for most of march... where are you headed?

Climb: Some rocks in Chalten, Argerntina-2 new routes Date of Climb: 2/4/2005 Trip Report: I took another trip to Chalten, Argentina with my roomate Daniel and we climbed what we belived to be 2 new routes on some rocks about an hour and a half walk from town. The first route was about 80 meters wich consisted of 2 pitches of 5.7 with shitty pro, grey and purple tcus and small nuts. The anchors turned out to be bomber and we where able to walk off as we topped out on a ridge. We called the route Black Jack after the 3 dollar liter of whiskey we had purchased. The second route was a 35 meter aid climb, wich involved extremely thin seams with some manky tied off blades, and back cleaning my lone rurp, though i was able to get in a bomber LA to avoid ground fall, also had to do 2 bat hook moves in a row, wich was my first time hand drilling of hooks quite fun i guess. I was also able to walk off of this climb. Its been quite the season in Argentine Patagonia, multiple new routes up Fitz Roy, a team of Slovokians traversed it, and a new Canadian route was put up as well. 2 parties where able to climb Cerro Torre and Fitz Roy with in a month. Thats the news from Patagonia. Gear Notes: Black Jack: Small Cams and Nuts, and large cams for the belays. Aid Line: assorted thin pins, rups, hooks and small HB offsets Approach Notes: about and hour and a half hike through a whole lot off prickly plants

Climb: Media Luna (Base of cerro torre)-Rubio y Azul Date of Climb: 1/15/2005 Trip Report: Im in patagonia right now, just got back from attempting a route on the base of cerro torre. I went from Puerto Natales, Chile, to El Chalten, Argentina with Steve Schnider and his wife Heather, where then we met the 4th person in our group Fredrico from Venezuela. In chalten we hired horses to carry our gear in, so the approach was a breeze, set up a base camp at camp birdwell. Heather and I had 8 days for the climb, short amount of time for trying anything in patagonia. Dean Potter was in the camp attempting to climb cerro torre and base jump off with an argentine guy, the Huber brothers and stephan seagress where there as well attempting to traverse cerro torre, torre egger and cerro stanheart(sp?). Tony (cant remeber last name) was there attempting the original maeistri route, hes the person who has gotten further on it than anyone else. Quite the sceene in base camp. Though the weather didnt alow us to climb anything we tryed to get to the base of the route twice both times being blown down by 70mph gusts. But we did have many rad bouldering sessions at base camp and in town, as well as slack lineing with dean potter who is fuckin amazing at that. when i have the time ill post photos of the guys batteling it out on some highball boulders and some mountain shots. all in all it was an extremely rad experince, thought we didnt do anything that we had hopped i guess thats the pataognia experince. steve and fredrico remain in base camp to attempt the compressor route. ciao from patagonia Gear Notes: shoes and chalk bag Approach Notes: easy with horses

I took a 25 footer when a cam blew and I was caught by a bolt on some shitty sandstone, my foot hit a slab... and welll... Twmorrow Im headed to argentina with Steve Schnider as my rope gun, so hopefully I´ll get up something interesting, and mabey have a TR. Take care in Oregon eveyone

nice im in patagonia right now with a slightly broken foot... so instead i real cascadeclimbers

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is she hot? no

dood my sisters a pro ultimate player!!!!!

How in any way is climbing a tree in bad style comparable to kicking a dog? Adam knows Vern, youve been up the same 300' firs on the western side of marys peak, that they go and climb, Adam should chime in and post some pictures of climbing a tree in good style. This tree isnt at smith rock nor is it like a dog in anyway. Oh shit I forgot to mention the tree is on my property mabey I'll go dog kicking next time...

okay now lets have a drink

How did I try to brag about it? the extreme bad ass stuff was just a joke. I posted it meerly to mabey get a rise out of Oregon. Go spray all the diseased little kids out there building tree houses that are destroying our forests.

Okay, so I talked to a forestry professor of 25 years at Oregon State University. The probability of that causing disease to the tree is slim to non. Arborists cause much biggger wounds to trees by cutting limbs and leaving even more exposed area then our 2 nails 2 screws and pins, wich where removed. Some arborists use a sort of paint on sheild for the tree but some others tend to find this pointless. We chose a tree in a spot where no one goes and no one probably will go for a long time, like I said the first person to go to this tree will probably be there to cut it down. To a tree of that size a nail is like a pinprick, why dont you guys spray foresters for core samples, your arborist friends for cutting limbs. How many of you feel the need to go out and do something like this? So I dont belive there is going to be some huge movment of people going and nailing up trees. We used natural protection when ever possible, and tryed as many techniques as we could to not hammer or screw anything in. Its extremely saddening to me that our boredom leads to someones disgust, and like I said in my other post disgust is a pretty strong word for this topic. Our damage to this tree that non of you will ever see, was so minimial compared to what we could have been doing, or what else is going on out there right now. By my next trip out there I would expect all of the wounds to be coverd with moss and totaly unoticable. I find it really sad that you guys spray me for something like this, when I'm sure you all drive cars that kill trees and numerous other things, support companys that kill the enviorment etc. etc. and you make me and my buddy out to be huge ass holes, that dont give a fuck about then enviorment. If you guys want to see something written by a professor ask, and mabey I'll squeeze some text out of him. Now quit making us kids trying to have fun continually feel like the devils in society.

adams dad is a tree climber for the government, if we wanted to climb trees with crossbows and and proper equipment we could. you guys just talk shit and say your disgusted(wich to me means your pretty sickened by our actions, wich is sad, and makes me feel pretty shitty). but we are just kids getting out and having some fun us putting 2 nails and 2 eye screws and a pin in a tree that you will never see and no one else probably will come look at this tree, unless they are planning on cutting it down, isnt really going to hurt any one. if we remove the gear wich we did, it poses no real longterm damage to the tree. so you guys hop back in your gas guzzlin, exhaust ridden tacomas or what ever you have and go save the environment.

Climb: a tree-some route Date of Climb: 12/11/2004 Trip Report: it was 12:15 at night here in corvallis... not much to do sooo why not go aid up a tree in the rain? my buddy adam and i gatherd the gear and where hiking into the tree by 1:00am we got there and climbed up immediatly, and then rapped off... fun right? back to the car by 3:20am looking down at the ground! looking down route! bomber anchor! thats adam he lurks as (pfleger) mabey hell post something rapping into the abyss!! hiking out like a bad ass yes we are extreme Gear Notes: nails, rivet hangers, giant eye screws, a pin, slings, and boredom Approach Notes: wild

Climb: colchuck lake-nothing Date of Climb: 12/6/2004 Trip Report: 5 days after having a hernia operated on i decided i needed to get out... so risking bleeding to death internaly, due to stiches popping , nick (skyclimb) and i headed up from corvallis, to b-ham to get some boots from distel, then finally to the colchuck lake trailhead. long day of driving, we camped at the trailhead. woke the next morning to sunny skys and decided to head in to colchuck lake with no real objective, as i was still pretty damn sore. slowly worked out way through a little bit of snow up to the lake and set up a camp. woke up to about 6 inches of freshies with more comin down and decided to go for the colchuck glacier route. we got to the top of the talus and i decided it would be best for me if we turned back as my leg was going numb due to circulation problems, so we headed down... better safe than sorry. nick had fun bouldering around but being not so limber i couldnt really joing in we hiked around for the rest of the day, and headed back to camp where we made a fire wich was a crucial move. woke up the next morning to a bit of a storm and a foot or so of some fresh white stuff. we hiked out via the frozen lake, saw 4 people headed up to ski colchuck glacier. we went back into leavenworth not really sure what to do, so we decided to head into the sausage fest in seattle, had a great time there, thanks so much pax for letting us stay at your place the next day we awoke and headed home with a little stop at rocky butte in pdx for some dry toolin fun. here are some pictures.... mmm popeyes Gear Notes: quite a bit of stuff, ski poles where a crucial part of my success as a bitching cripple Approach Notes: snowy trail

we didnt do much, since i had a hernia operation last monday so i couldnt risk ripping my stiches out and bleeding to death internaly. but we walked across the lake and up to the colchuck glacier, camped out, smoked a lot of pot and had a fire, it was nice and relaxing. ill post some pics soon

reg 3.3.3 posts 666 loc smoking crack ???? whats up with this kid

there was one spot where there was a head smashed into a bolt hole