corvallisclimb

shit like that can happen anywhere...

i will lead both crux pitches... someone?

if i could free climb! i started working another new aid line on the west face of the mud pile. im hopeing to finish it so i can call it "chosstranaut" it consisted of a string tipped out beaks in crumbly rock. even the bolts i figured had to place (to avoid ripping the whole pitch) crumbled a bit. any one wanna have an adventure? heres to new wave smith aid!!

i was thinking "loose hookers"

looking for a partner for the original picnic lunch wall route? any takers?

Climb: smith-FA - aid is aid Date of Climb: 6/25/2005 Trip Report: trying to avoid the crowds i ventured out into the marsupials in search of something interesting to climb with about 5 hours. i climbed what i belive to be a new aid route up the east face of the mudpile. a lot of loose rock and hollow blocks where what i encounterd but i had fun and it never got too sketchy. the start was the most dangerous. if i where to rate it i would assume something like 5.6 A2+ no bolts where placed... now someone tell me if im wrong i thought it might go free at hard 5.11 if you like pulling roofs with loose rocks and bad protection? Gear Notes: cams to 3" x 2 nuts X 2 3 beaks 2 LAs 1 angle hooks - grappling and cliff hanger Approach Notes: somewhere out there

ive done it this time of the year and it is a poop tube

no one? its a pretty cool place

pm me if interested, i need a partner to finish a route that i have some ropes on.

i dont think he was the one belaying him. he had never tryed to free the pitches above el cap spire, so mabey i was wrong with that statement but who cares non the less.

yes it is, i understand its a dick but besides that i guess i dont get it from there

practice at the columns in eugene, you can practice all sorts of tricks there, hand placing beaks, cam hooks, thin crackss and wider stuff. all about 40 feet high and top ropeable.

id also like to note this was steves 87th times up el cap... and my first time

?

Climb: El Capitan-Salathe Date of Climb: 6/5/2005 Trip Report: I helped my friend Steve Schneider do a free ascent of the Salathe. We spent two nights on the wall, we had planned to spend three nights but we got caught up with cragging and such. Steve onsighted every pitch untill the two 13 pitches on the headwall wich he speed/aid climbed through due to fading light and need to get off the wall. All in all a great time was had by the both of us. Perfect weather in the valley for my time spent there, and I didnt get tooled by any rangers. here are some pictures: Gear Notes: clean wall rack Approach Notes: short as hell

will be headed to yosemite on thursday was looking for someone to share driving and gas with if any one is interested. ill probably be down there for a week or two. pm me if interested

gotta be sneaky... chongo might know how

Whats makes this guy so great? What sort of credentials does some anonymous "Dr." of sport climbing have that makes him always so right? Your an asshole with your ego DFA "And maybe Dr. Flash Amazing is mistaken (not likely, of course)", go clip your bolts and cry about my good friends being assholes. I'm sick of reading all of your posts in 3rd person where you talk as if your always right, and the know it all of the climbing community(I guess mainly just cascadesprayers.com). I personaly feel its fuckin lame and bullshit. Just write some normal shit instead of trying to hide yourself to hype up your identity.

you know i would but i want my new car!!! lets still get fuckin wasted and do a wall... whats on your list?

i use one sport climbing

greg- where you the one that might have taken pictures of matt and i in the west face cave? post em on here id like to show them to the folks. ty

i was pretty sure that is why we were SUPOSED to wear helmets when we climb... I have had glof ball sized rocks come off at the collums on well climbed routes. if you are standing under a climb... you are at ground zero. if you are concerned wear your brain bucket. climbing is dangerous no matter what your doing, clipping bolts at smith or strung out on A5 on baffin island. its not so much up to other people to make it safer, but up to yourself.

yes it was wayne... and i never got to see it

ive used one a couple times. its nice how they pack up, but they are rather small. id say prolly worth the cheap price.

douche.... well i had to make a stick clip out of a stick and some tape and shoe laces but i freaked out before i could even clip that first bolt, i gotta go back and try again mabey ill bring my 100ft stick clip so i can stick up a tr with out needing a bad ass pimpen rope gun like you mike but seriously isnt that what those people get for standing undernead another climb!?!?!