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Everything posted by Zoran
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	I have 2 Delkin batteries for my Canon Xsi and they work flawlessly. You probably talking about dollar store batteries for Canon? I think youbatt selling those. http://www.youbatt.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=YBLPE5&Show=TechSpecs Delkin Devices is a good company and products are solid in quality.
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	Also, heard comments about incredible discrepancy in amount of gear and supplies French team and Giri-Giri Boys airlifted from the Silver City air strip. Giri-Giri Boys had just bare minimum even tough they climbed in April/early May when is much colder. Just a two small packs on this route. They took a high risk but made a good judgment. I can't wait to see who will venture into terrain right from the Hummingbird ridge. It will be a great accomplishment.
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	Don, please, don't rule out old "golden age" style attempts on South Face of Logan yet! :-) Just kidding! I got your point. We mortals, need visionaries like Giri-Giri Boys, and Colin (and you, and Jo-Jo). We need to read those unbelievable stories while sitting in the office and dreaming to have the same gift like all of you. However, there are some people who are excellent climbers but not in the zone of fast and light. I have seen them last month! I looked down from the plane to the base camp of the French military team. Couldn't see them on the ridge. I noticed boot track. They had about 3 tons of gear and food deposited below the Hummingbird. Some of them are less known European stars like guide Caporal Chef PELLISSIER Manu. Manu is a fantastic climber. Those guys are serious. They couldn't finish the climb. Probably, because their style is not fast and light their attempt of this extraordinary ridge is not well published or discussed. Their story will disappear in some of the Internet holes. :-) But it's an good attempt regardless of style. Whoever steps into Logan's South Face have my respect. Jack Tackle started the line and Giri-Giri team finished it. This is Jacks accomplishment too. He stepped into it and I respect him so much because of that! Ridge is really something! Impressive. Complex, broken rock, overhanging ice, double corniced ... I heard that people need shovel on some sections to shovel at the middle, because on left and right you have cornice. Weather is scary, and also climb involve physical hard work not only climbing. Logan's South Face is very scary place to be and Hummingbird Ridge is brilliant climb. http://www.gmhm.terre.defense.gouv.fr/suivi.php?id=306
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	I know how you feel. Last few days are very bad for me packing my food for Mt. Logan ski attempt. I figure-out my snacks easily. So many good European stores are here in Vancouver and choices are great. Also, I often visit Costco in Bellingham and you can find great stuff there (bag of chocolate covered raisins, or raisins covered in yogurt!, dry fruit, flax seeds pancake mix, cheese etc.) My problem are dinners. Problem is that I really can't eat freeze dried food or any other prepackaged stuff. Also, my two partners are for communal dinners and that added additional pressure. If I am alone I could settle with less variety and simpler dinners (for me soup is essential) but I don't want to disappoint them. Some people are affected with "standard" food (monotony). On my Denali trip I haven't paid a lot of attention to food so we stopped eating at camp 5. We had bunch of freeze dried bags but we couldn't look at them. I will never bring Cliff bar or pastry again, or any kind of bar (Lara or no Lara)! Ever! It will be always good chocolate. This time I have fair trade Cadbury and halva sticks (Greek halva). Lots of cheese (smoked Gouda, Cheddar, Parmesan and cheese sticks). Costco is great place to find stuff! Also Serbian dried bacon and jerky from local stores here. Bring something you can eat. Don't worry if someone says it's too fatty or you shouldn't eat low fat food. If you like it and tastes good go for it. Run check through your dinners again and bring less but high quality food. Many people will give you their food in Camp 4 so you will get crappy food there. You don't need to buy it here!
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	On other forum this was posted: http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=2333080 P.S. This member, sosure is really sharp in his/ or her? comments. Remind me of our Dru a little. When he is inspired. :-)
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	This link is just for Drew, me and other non-USA climbers (mortals). http://www.watch-free.tv/documentary/watch-messner-documentary-online-free/ You HULU watchers are climbing elite ...
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	I have Mammut Ambler hooded jacket. I love my jacket and would like to see how Edi Bauer was better. Thanks a lot for your had work.
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	I apologize. To correct myself, not Lite, model is called Ultra. Guide is winter boot. The Ultra is more of a summer alpine boot. Also, new Mt. Blanc GTX is replacement for Cumbre, as you already know.
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	Have you seen Scarpa Guide Light? Maybe I misunderstood one of the European posts and Scarpa has only Guide. Thanks,
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	Mark, two Slovenians repeated Centrercourt last weekend. Both of them are more famous in Europe than here in Canada and USA,Aljaž Anderle in Klemen Premrl. I embedded lager pic for you to see complexity of the place. Sorry guys. If you think it's too large just reply and I will crop it. Enjoy! Zoran
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	[img:center]http://www.gore-ljudje.net/objave/promo/Centercourt4.jpg[/img] It is amazing achievement! Centercourt is no. 2. No.3 is 7- and unrepeated. BTW, There is discussion at European forums now that climbers put spit there which is against the "ice climbing ethic". I am not very familiar with the "rules". http://www.bergsteigen.at/de/bericht.aspx?ID=13543
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	Danilo Tič Je snemal na več kot kilogram težko in veliko Sony kamero, ki je imela format video 8. ... Danilo Tic filmed this training using over 2 pounds heavy Sony camera (format video 8) This is old generation of Slovenians who did amazing stuff in Himalayas.
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	Documentary, Ice climbing, Icefall Sušica, Logarska dolina, Slovenija, 1989, Franc Pepevnik Aco, Marjan Frešer, Danilo Tič [video:youtube]
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	Thanks for the pictures. What do you think about Alpine Alibi gloves? Cheers
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	As you know already ... Here is Doug Chabot and his assessment of the avalanche which swept Guy. Two climbers above him, triggered the slide with tragic consequences. I have a question for you ... My intention is not to blame anyone, I just like to know what do you think. I am not familiar with the ice climbing competitions (I even cannot call myself ice climber) but I was wondering, is organizer required to do some assessment of the area before the competition starts? Do you actually know who is above you and below you any given day of the competition? I suspect that it is hard to do "cleanup" of all areas around, and it's done for most of the approaches and critical gullies. Looks like it is hard to prevent something like this happening again, because area is so complex. [video:youtube]
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	Great loss for his family and world's climbing community. He was from Ontario but picked Northern BC to be his home. Extraordinary talented ice climber. :-(
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	Thank you for your reply. I will post some pictures of my work here. I have 4 old poles and going to copy your design. Cheers, Zoran
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	Those are two single poles, right? If you used 4 poles (cutting and connecting them) could you make close picture of the connectors. Cheers, Zoran
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	Thank you Montypiton, Very good reply to this post. Mountainsmith sold line to Kifaru few years ago. https://www.kifaru.net/sleds.html
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	Could you help me determine which ice climbing boot is better made (last, quality and warmth). I know I have to try them both in the store to find better fit but which one is better manufactured? What would be your choice if both models fit OK. My feet are little wide and short (my size is 8). Also which one could better fit for mountaineering, not only for climbing waterfalls close to parking lot. I have never seen any of them (except on Internet). Have to go to REI maybe to try Asolo? Thanks a lot. Zoran
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	Ade, My comment is off this topic above. I apologize ... You HAVE TO go to bivouac to see one picture of Mt. Augusta. It's from the plane made by Edwina from Edmonton. I checked your pictures from your gallery but this one is something! Many people haven't realized how dramatic that ridge is, and how good your climb was. Congrats again on your hard work! Zoran
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	Interesting assignment. I will go to some hardware stores here in Vancouver to see is there anything matching your requirements. Ring must be about 20g (half of Omega), diameter of Omega and probably aluminum. Little less than 28KN. Maybe 20. I hope somebody will respond soon with an idea where to find rap ring like this. I would like to have that on my rack.
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	Maybe Madrock? But still 37g. This will not solve your problem. Madrock rings are similar to OmegaPac: http://www.climbaxe.com/climbaxerapringlarge-1-1.aspx They are cheaper (50%)
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	Dane, While we are on this nice picture ... Could you please give us your technical comment on new BDel umbilicals. Thanks in advance. Bdel Spinner Leash
 
