Zoran

Thanks for the pictures. What do you think about Alpine Alibi gloves? Cheers

As you know already ... Here is Doug Chabot and his assessment of the avalanche which swept Guy. Two climbers above him, triggered the slide with tragic consequences. I have a question for you ... My intention is not to blame anyone, I just like to know what do you think. I am not familiar with the ice climbing competitions (I even cannot call myself ice climber) but I was wondering, is organizer required to do some assessment of the area before the competition starts? Do you actually know who is above you and below you any given day of the competition? I suspect that it is hard to do "cleanup" of all areas around, and it's done for most of the approaches and critical gullies. Looks like it is hard to prevent something like this happening again, because area is so complex. [video:youtube]

Great loss for his family and world's climbing community. He was from Ontario but picked Northern BC to be his home. Extraordinary talented ice climber. :-(

Thank you for your reply. I will post some pictures of my work here. I have 4 old poles and going to copy your design. Cheers, Zoran

Those are two single poles, right? If you used 4 poles (cutting and connecting them) could you make close picture of the connectors. Cheers, Zoran

Thank you Montypiton, Very good reply to this post. Mountainsmith sold line to Kifaru few years ago. https://www.kifaru.net/sleds.html

All prices are in CAD $. Shipping is not included. The cheapest way is to pick up item on your way to Squamish or else. Backcountry Touring setup Dynastar Altitrail Vertical skis, 170cm http://pistehors.com/backcountry/wiki/Gear/Dynastar-Altitrail-Vertical Used two ski seasons in the backcountry, maybe 15 trips per season; in great condition, maintained in professional ski shop after each ski season & Dynafit TLT ST Vertical Bindings (new model) http://www.dynafit.at/uk/4/674/48705-TLT_Vertical_ST_w_o_Stopper.html Perfect condition, I used ski straps instead of ski stoppers (ski stoppers are removed, they are in the box, MEC will put it back free of charge) http://www.dynafit.at/uk/4/674/43206-Ski_Stopper_TLT_Vertical___Comfort___92_mm.html & Black Diamond Traverse Ski Poles http://www.amazon.com/Black-Diamond-Traverse-Adjustable-Poles/dp/B000YODH2A Used, in good shape 575$ NEW!!! Vasque Ice9000 High Altitude Climbing Boots Size 8- 8 1/2 with Intuition Universal Liner (molded once) http://www.intuitionliners.com/universal_page.htm and original Vasque TF liners, never molded (not adequate for high Altitude) 200$ Dynafit TLT 4 TF EVO Shell Size 25.5 MONDO, Liner 25, Molded once 175$ Petzl Ecrin Roc Helmet Very well taken care of; no damage or scratches; excellent condition 50$ Two waist packs; Great condition; Quest and Nathan brand; Nathan was not used at all; Without bottles' Could be sold separately; 10$ each; Cloudveil Crystal Creek Jacket New, Goretex Paclite, phenomenal jacket 150$ PM me if you like to see items pictures and hear more details ...

Could you help me determine which ice climbing boot is better made (last, quality and warmth). I know I have to try them both in the store to find better fit but which one is better manufactured? What would be your choice if both models fit OK. My feet are little wide and short (my size is 8). Also which one could better fit for mountaineering, not only for climbing waterfalls close to parking lot. I have never seen any of them (except on Internet). Have to go to REI maybe to try Asolo? Thanks a lot. Zoran

Ade, My comment is off this topic above. I apologize ... You HAVE TO go to bivouac to see one picture of Mt. Augusta. It's from the plane made by Edwina from Edmonton. I checked your pictures from your gallery but this one is something! Many people haven't realized how dramatic that ridge is, and how good your climb was. Congrats again on your hard work! Zoran

Interesting assignment. I will go to some hardware stores here in Vancouver to see is there anything matching your requirements. Ring must be about 20g (half of Omega), diameter of Omega and probably aluminum. Little less than 28KN. Maybe 20. I hope somebody will respond soon with an idea where to find rap ring like this. I would like to have that on my rack.

Maybe Madrock? But still 37g. This will not solve your problem. Madrock rings are similar to OmegaPac: http://www.climbaxe.com/climbaxerapringlarge-1-1.aspx They are cheaper (50%)

Dane, While we are on this nice picture ... Could you please give us your technical comment on new BDel umbilicals. Thanks in advance. Bdel Spinner Leash

I have pair of WileyX for climbing and biking. Blink Lenses are done in their facility in CA. I am very happy with design. Also, I own Brick model but my prescriptions couldn't fit in. I don't know the reason.

There is new Grivel (coming to MEC) Looks so good for high altitude Grivel

I like this hat from Teva but I personally use Mec

Brianna, Congratulations for your persistence and good plan. Hope that grant you just got will "push" you more and make your future plans real. Desire's sharp ridge is one of the most impressive in the area. Can't wait to see your report and pictures. Good luck!

Does any of you know more details about this 30m crevasse fall? Skier lost his life. I am looking around to see do I know him. I am not sure group was from Vancouver. My condolences to his family and ski/climbing community from his town/city. Z

I have my Flash now and stove hanger. Going to give you more review and pictures from the field soon. Looks fantastic and it's in purple color (great photo potential). :-) So far I read several introduction articles about new Jetboil Flash from people who were fortunate to visit Outdoor show in Salt Lake City. Something like this from Jason Mitchell: Jetboil Flash PCS for 2009 As mentioned above, the Jetboil PCS has been largely unchanged but for 2009, they are refining the product with some nifty features that everyone can appreciate. The cup can now be had in multiple, bright colors that will brighten anyone’s day while cooking on a rainy day on the Pacific Crest Trail. Beyond colors, the lid is now translucent to see the contents of the cup without releasing the valuable steam. And, something very cool, the side of the cup features a thermo-chromic logo to indicate the temperature so you don’t scald yourself with boiling water when all you want is hot water for cocoa, tea or cider. Four colors will be available: black, gold, purple and blue. The new features are worthy upgrades for sure. MSRP is $99.95 and the new Flash PCS will hit stores in Fall 2009.

This is what I had on West Buttress this May. I was never cold to wear both. Same thing I will bring to West Rib. My primaloft sweater was also WildThings (with hood) and I spent all time in it when I was on the move or in camps up to C4. From C5 and up I was in belay Jacket and bibs. I think my Wild Things jacket is much better than DAS. Cassin is a different story. Cassin is so demanding that you have to have different tactic, move very fast-bring less (like Steve House, Colin or Marko Prezelj) but increase risk up to extreme level. Cassin is out of my league and others will give you better advice. Also, I will carefuly read what Dane wrote. Trust me, he is right.

Alpinist is out of business. I hope they could keep web page running until they get stronger (financially). http://www.alpinist.com/

Let's hope this young hockey player didn't make any tape. Kids sometimes do that ... This could be devastating for the Alaskans. I like Alaska. It's my favorite state (after WA of course).

Nobody listen old man: http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2008/08/11/AR2008081101372.html

My apologies, they left on 28th and coming back on July 1st. I promise I will provide to you more info if you need it by Wednesday. Including some pictures. Two of them are my good friends. Plan: Ascent via Blue Glacier (Standard Route). Glacier travel and gear required.

Some Canadians did last weekend. I'll let you know more today or tomorrow. Z

For one person daily is needed 1.5 cups of fuel. Total is 3 cups for two of us, which makes 72 cups for 24 days. That is 4.5 gallons. We will go with 4 and leave bare minimum on 11K. One gallon will be reserved for upper mountain camp for total of 6 days, for two people. Do you think 4 is too much? I know people hesitate to give advice but what you will do? Thanks a lot.