Zoran

I have similar dilemma. I was in MEC and talked to a specialist, about my feet and which boots I should buy. My advice to you is to go and visit all stores and try, try and try as many different boots as you have available! If you pick perfect boot for your feet, you will be in great position to enjoy ski touring 100%! Believe me! Your feet are not same as mine and maybe your left foot is different than right. That is absolutely normal. I skied last season in Scarpa Denali XT and it's enough! Now I am switching to Dynafit bindings and I am looking forward to try Dynafit Aero boots. http://www.barrabes.com/barrabes/product.asp?dept_id=554&pf_id=12403&opt= They will be in MEC at the middle of November. If this boot doesn't fit I will be in trouble because my second choice will be boot I can't try. I can only order them over the net. It will be a gamble , but ...

This is amazing! Thanks so much for this. Z

Possibly the best advice! To understand value of Drew's advice do this exercise: After next trip separate ONLY STUFF YOU USED and try to fit that in 30 lit pack. Bring only that stuff to next trip and keep track what you missing. Adjust stuff acordingly for next trip. Keep track of that. You can go to 20 lit target if you like, but I think is to much. I personally stopped at 30 lit level. My friend have different view. He is close to 20 lit volume pack for overnight trip (for example, for Spearhead Traverse). I am very uncomfortable with that.

As a beginner I didn't have a choice. My instructor took me to 5.6 North American grade, IV UIAA grade. That was the rule and we push harder latter when we were alone. In school we even had place where to sit in the hut. No mixing with "real" climbers! That is why many of us came here to North America to look for feedom. Now, we sitting on the couch watching hockey. Z

How was the driving? Is your truck in one piece?

BTW, Ziff I heard from my friend that Serratus is going out of business soon. I really liked some of their compression bags.

I have very light Deuter pack (35 lit) for day trips and most of ski trips around Vancouver, BC. www.deuter.com Using down superlight -5C sleeping bag, shells and synthetic jacket I managed to do many overnight trips where we beat the weather. My concern is now trekking or long ski traverses in near future. Are all of you who exploring light and fast options just don't look into ski traverses and week long trips anymore? Especially, I am looking to hear model of your BIG pack sitting in the corner collecting dust. At the same time I am constantly applying light and fast tips for myself. After doing that for a long time I am so stressed out when I see how heavy some packs are. How about you? Z

Go ahead Colin! Z

Looks so good. Congratulations on excellent alpine climb! Z

JayB, I agree with you. I had same experience long time ago and I stopped using any down product for several years. I am using one very good syntetic jacket from local manufacturer here in BC Fusion model, with Sympatex shell over (in winter conditions). Here it is: http://www.navarrogear.com/productmaster.html It's cheaper than MEC (when they have sale!) If I have enough money I will buy Cloudveil jacket for sure. It's piece of art! Z

How about this: http://www.cloudveil.com/product.php?sku=F4-3106&cat=19982 Z

Just wait a little. We will be part of USA when you run out of water. At the moment you really need something from us, you will eat us for breakfast. I won't be happy but you will have one more vote against Bush. Hey, What are the requirements to get Mexican citizenship? Z

I am sorry to hear that they don't fit. I have them. Very good, light alpine boots. Last week I used them for a first time on Black Peak trip (Normal route). They are soft, comfortable boots and material used is top of the line. They fit me perfectly! I think this is very good deal for somebody who is interested to have summer alpine boots. I have step in crampons and when I need that combination I use Cerro Torre's. In near future I should buy lightweight newmatic crampons (for this boots and for ski-moutaineering trips). Zoran

Absolutely beautiful! ALPINIST editors can learn from this site. One thing for sure: information should be free. You can't charge for everything. Z

My friend gave me Fugawi DVD for BC only, to have look and I think is great option. They have 250,000 and 50,000 maps there. If you purchase Fugawi software for GPS, you can upload map and there you go. I don't know can you upload Fugawi maps to GPS with other software. I didn't spend enough time on their web site. Paul is right when he said that in general Fugawi is cheaper option (you can print only small bits of the area). BTW, They copyrighted their DVD very carefully. Zoran

I have Evo. My previous axe was Camp alpine model (10 years old) and little bit short. I am very happy how Evo looks like and especially with weight. I am sure you will love it. I have to practice self arrest to see is russ right pointing to possible issue. I can't see problem and I think it will work even better than traditionaly designed axes. I'll let you know. Z

rest

I have Khamsin 62 (Arcteryx) and this is my day, overnight and extended trip pack. I am happy with this pack but I should buy one 35L pack and try to save this one a little. Z

I am looking forward to see the list! Z

You guys from MA are used to harsh winter. I think you have 50-50 chances for success on Rainier. Don't worry about altitude if you have plenty of time to spend in Camp Muir. Problem is that microclimate on Rainier is very unpredictable and whiteouts, low temperatures or high winds are very common. I agre with ryland's route suggestion. Go for winter solution because is more exciting and many of us thinkig about that. It could be "real" climb. Good luck with weather. Z

Weekend before last some guys stole part of our gear from Elfin Lakes hut at Garibaldi Park. My friend and me departed very early from hut on Sunday morning to climb East Face of Garibaldi. We left some extra stuff in the hut. Afternoon we realized that some stuff is missing. My therm-a-rest, his stove and small alarm clock. We probably look naive to you but we have many years of climbing experience in Europe and here, in Canada. We made mistake thinking that because we don't like to even touch other people's stuff nobody will touch ours, but ... There is only one answer to all this problems: to go higher and deeper into mountains. From all my experince I can tell that if you go higher on the mountains you will meet better people. I bought new therm-a-rest and everything is OK but my friend still missing badly small Telefunken alarm clock, 15 years old, present from his mom when he went to university. Value of that clock is 25 cents on the garage sale but for him much, much more. So, see you somewhere where parking climbers from Squamish or mountaineers from BC huts doesn't like to go. Cheers, Zoran

From the ACC Vancouver section website... Television Premiere! Award-winning Canadian mountain film, In The Shadow Of The Chief premieres on CBC Date: July 8 at 7:00pm CBC TV In The Shadow Of The Chief tells the story of a rain-soaked morning in May 1961 when, amidst the snow-capped mountains and verdant forests of Squamish, British Columbia, two young climbers - Jim Baldwin and Ed Cooper - started up the 'unclimbable' Stawamus Chief. Within two weeks news of their attempt had spread and soon 12,000 cars crowded the base of the Chief with onlookers convinced they were about to witness a deadly fall. Braving relentless heat, mosquitoes and a barrage of reporters, it seemed at times doubtful that Ed and Jim would finish the climb. Using never-before-seen archival footage, the film takes a unique look at a part of Canadian sport history and the spirit of the community that rallied behind them. In The Shadow Of The Chief, by first time filmmakers Ivan Hughes and Angela Heck, premiered at the Whistler Film Festival in Dec 2003 where it received the People's Choice Award for Best Film. The Vancouver International Mountain Film Festival awarded it the Best Film Overall - Festival Grand Prize and the Best Canadian Mountain Film. For more information, please see: www.fringefilmworks.com

This lightweight bag is what you looking for: http://www.ferrino.it/eng/catalogo.htm ART. 86176 / ART. 86175 H.L. REVOLUTION 800/510

Real failure will be if you don't go. Honestly, I can't see you will have any objective obstacles to complete your plan. Weather will be perfect and for sure you will have fun. Please, bring camera and post something here. Will you? Z

I was hiking up to Tszil Mt. with my friend on Sunday. I showed him entrance to Joffre Enhainment. Joffre from lake looked dry but you can't see much from that point(?). Matier Glacier looked nice! I never climb in Joffre and I will do something soon. I can tell you for sure that Rex Pillar's West Ridge is very dry and North Culoir of Tszil is in perfect condition. I linked both in 2001 and situation was very bad. Now, North Culoir is absolutly beautiful! Not even small crack in the snow. Smooth and nice! Great place to bring beginer climber or just enjoy solo climbing. Z