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Everything posted by Zoran
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	If it's not Ferrosi maybe is Contour. I have that shirt but it's too thin for rain and snow.
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	Try Valandre ... They are better.
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	Look how innovative Mark Richey is during the climb on Saser Kangri II: Saser Kangri II
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				first ascent [TR] Burkett Needle - East Arête "Repeat Offender" (FA) 9/11/2011
Zoran replied to John Frieh's topic in Alaska
Very good work guys! Congratulations ... Amazing place to be! - 
	Do you know when will be out? Can't wait to have it ...
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	I have two. I like them only because they bring some memories from old times I started climbing. I first tried ice in Tamar valley, Slovenia but haven't used them there. Slovenian instructors used them and some Austrian hardware. I always carry one on alpine climbs to leave it behind. It didn't happen so far ... My set is Petzl (and few Grivels). Having Titanium screw to leave, makes less impact on the budget. I got them long time ago in Yugoslavia, when friend came from Pik Korzenjevska. I also have this pitons from the pictures. One with hole we called Bongs. Russians were trading them for silk leggings for their girlfriends. Friend told me Russians had a big box full of titanium hardware. We heard, they climbed unbelievable routes with this screws but no one was reporting that outside of Russia. Also, no one was reporting accidents and deaths caused using this screws. It was very closed climbing community and they shared experiences only between themselves. Now is very different. I also believe this screws are very unreliable but if we can see some reports from NWA based on data from Russia it will help.
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	If I understand this, looks like you having an issue with the pack fit, not really with the companies or manufacturers. I also, reached the point when I really don't look who is who (is it Cilo or MH, or TNF ...) I don't really care ... I would like to find perfect fit. I regret selling my Arcteryx Needle 65 pack long time ago. I wanted something different and made big mistake. But maybe things will get better soon. If you can wait for Spring 2012, new Arcteryx No-Zone 55 is coming. They are going back to regular top lid for this model. No dry bag and fancy suspensions I don't like. I would like to have classic pack up to 60lit. I think I will go for this new Arcteryx pack. At this moment I have Pieps Plecotus 36 and Lowe Alpine TFX10 for big trips. I would like to have something similar to my old Needle 65.
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	Messner was talking about quality of the climbing not about quality of the climbers life. There are not many professional climbers who can live from sponsors but still some climbers want to break into that circle.
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	I can't present all interview since is in paper magazine but it's really interesting. At one moment he mention drugs as one of the big issues in modern climbing. He probably meant performance enhancement drugs ... Issue is that climbing is not regulated sport like boxing or cycling. What do you think about this? We mostly discuss sponsorships and other issues but never mention drugs as problem. He gave great compliment to USA climbers saying there are about 20 great professional climbers in US, 10 in Europe and few in Japan. He also was talking about David Lama (how Red Bull used him) and how Christian Stangl cheated. Reason for that was great pressure to break into elite. Some climbers will do anything to get into elite circle of top professional climbers.
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	I don't think TNF Fission is available. It's discontinued too.
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	Jeff Lowe opens his backpack 20 years later
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	Can you bike a little? In lower gears of course. My PT recommended it and I feel much better. I also follow his suggested exercises for example making squats but supported by wall. Not deep squats, very slowly down and than move up to extend both legs gently (30 repetitions). Also I jump sideways in the swimming pool. Water helps ... On the street I try to walk normally. That is very important. Don't rush, just try to walk as you walked before the injury. Go to see PT or good doctor. Have a MRI ...
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	Price of the Element II is very good. I would go for 60mm option. Mammut Supersafe is great but you can't find it below 230$.
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	Marmot makes this for Europe only ... http://www.alpineexposures.com/pages/marmot-tour-pro-ii-salopettes
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	I am sorry to hear about your knee issue Marcin. I injured myself in February and still waiting for my MRI (maybe will be done in June). Had my PT exam, xray, family doctor exam and orthopedic surgeon exams. PT said it's ACL but surgeon is not 100% sure how bad it is. In Canada we wait long for free exam if we don't have money (about 850$) for next day private scan. Looks like I will have my exam in June. Still limping and sometimes feel my knee will collapse under me. Sometimes is just fine but I still limp slightly. Not wearing brace since I am not doing any climbing yet but feel some pain. I just hope it's not seriously bad. I am probably in some kind of denial and in June I will be hit hard with my results. I am so happy for you Tyson. It's good to hear you doing well. I am very disappointed with my situation. I am scared to think I won't be able to go deeper into mountains to climb or ski.
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	Europeans were first to introduce softshell pants and hardshell top combination. Now they reversed items, and wear hardshell pants and softshell tops. When they will make up their mind? Or looks like they have a difficulties organizing their drawer. Need help to match clothes on the hanger? Jeezzz! :-)
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	If you are "regular" person you will have a great choices from Marmot, Outdoor Research, Mammut, Millet, Stoic and many more. Climbing in GTX is hard because you will destroy your pants easily. Especially Gore Paclite. You can't even sit on the grass in those. I am having hard time to find good fitting pants. I wear short inseam pants and choices are very limited: Marmot Scree & Cortina, Mammut Courmayer Advanced & Fiamma short and Arcteryx Gamma AR. That's it. I don't know any other .. Do you? In dry conditions, I mostly climb in 3/4 like Arteryx and Millet. Arcteryx sell them for 20$ (sometimes) but they are not water resistant. My ski pants are Marmot Randonnee short. GTX ... I would climb Rainier in that pants for sure. Short inseam is 28-29in. Most pants are 33in in regular. That is very bad for some of us but great for many of you. Some pants have zippers on the bottom so you can't shorten them easily.
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	I just ordered mine this morning ...
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	Tom Hornbein and Fred Beckey. Photo by John Scurlock Awards were presented to a wide range of individuals, young and old. Fred Beckey, 88, received the Robert and Miriam Underhill Award for Outstanding Climbing Achievement. Accepting the award, Beckey said that in his view he should have received the “Bad Housekeeping Award” for knocking over the oatmeal while tent-bound below Devils Thumb with Robert Craig, recipient of the club’s Angelo Heilprin Citation for Exemplary Service to the AAC. http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/aac_unveils_awards_major_initiatives/
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	Nick send me the link to his Blog. I know you guys will like this ice post specifically. Probably Dane will be big fan of it. Rest of the Blog is very good too. Nick Elson is very quiet and modest guy. But don't be fooled because he is hard working climber. Nick is already accomplished BC climber who soon can be NA household name like Colin. http://infirmofpurpose.wordpress.com/2011/01/15/top-10-coastal-ice-moderates-part-1/
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	http://www.berghaus.com/community/?p=1626
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	Chris Bonington et Mick Fowler de passage a Chamonix font un petit tour à Cogne dans le Val d'Aoste en Italie pour faire un peu de glace. Cascade de Lillaz, 200 mètres en 3/4 selon les passages... Sir Chris Bonington is just 76 years old ...
 
