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Everything posted by Zoran
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Thanks, What do you think about this: Total time on the mountain planned is 24 days; We will have first food cashe below the ski hill or near the air strip (three days of food and drink, no fuel) Will continue with food for 18 days. Second cashe will be on 11K with gear and one day of food/hot drinks, optimal fuel Two days of food and fuel cut. Comment ... Conservative?
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I will probably have Love Alpine Cerro Torre 75. Thanks bigtree for your comment. It's big challenge to not go overboard and keep total weight around 100lb. Whoever going there soon, how you managing this challenge? Where you see the major cut you can accomplish? Z
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You scaring me ... :-)
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There is another Carbon Neutral expedition: http://www.carbonneutralexpeditions.com/ They will sail from England and ski afterwards. Good plan. Similar to Erden's trip. Zoran
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Few days ago I spoke with my friend here in Vancouver and he told me about theory that our bodies generate heat and even if we just sit we impacting environment. Even if we do our best we end up distroying planet. He concluded that if we really want to be honest in our effort to protect the Earth and stop polution, we should just kill ourselves as soon as possible. I am concern about his well being ... I don't like chat but I use G-mail chat from time to time just to see is he there. Zoran
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Sound like good deal. We will ask Arcteryx to sponsor us to buy your water. How about that? We both will be happy. Z
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Time to move on to better things. Thank you all who responded and to the readers who didn't bother to join this conversation. :-) For critics ... I heard hard words but I won't pay attention to them. I will promise now I will walk hard to the summit of Denali. I found inspiration in songs of my idol D.C. who cut his brother in half. He said in Walk Hard: "...Even if you've been told time and time again That you're always gonna lose and you're never gonna win Gotta keep that vision in your mind's eye When you're standing on top of a mountain high ..." Latter he said in Guilty As Charged: "...I don't even care what anyone thinks I stay up all night and I smoke and I drink I'm a wanted man and I'm blowin town Don't even bother tryin' to hunt me down The cops are sayin I belong behind bars And I'm Guilty I'm Guilty as Charged ..." For supporters: Thank you. This song D.C. wrote for you: "...It’s about the good walk And the hard walk And the young girls you’ve made cry It’s about make a little music everyday ‘til you di-ie ..." Isn't he genius? P.S. I hope nobody will respond to this reply and this topic will be over. :-) Z
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More about jacket from Forbes magazine http://blogs.forbes.com/findoftheday/2007/10/kjus-commwear-j.html KJUS Commwear Jacket, $1,199 Ski wear goes high-tech with KJUS's latest jacket, which boasts an integrated MP3 player and control panel on its sleeve, so you can listen to music without fiddling with an iPod tucked deep in your pocket. There's also a Bluetooth system to easily chat on your mobile. What's more, jacket's fibers retain and release heat as needed, so you'll never be too toasty or too chilly. Available in men's and women's sizes.
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I am glad to hear that. I wish I could do that. I met couple of climbers with similar cards here in Vancouver. One even approached me on the street and asked if I could make him a list what is needed to climb in Squamish. He never climbed before and he didn't own a single piece. I made list and he went to MEC. Bill was 1500$. It was impressive. Unfortunately, he climbed couple of times and realized is to hard. So, he sold the stuff for half a price. I wish he was more persistent. You will make mistake not looking for more attractive gear than any clothes we have for pro-deals or available in US. Could you please see this small company from Europe? My friend just sent me link. http://www.kjus.com/ Look at Commwear jacket. Price is little high but Platinum card will handle it. Few stores in Whistler and Banff sell that stuff. New technology for temperature adjustments. It's store heet if it's warmer and release it when gets colder. Pay attention to detachable purse under KJUS technology. Good place to store your precious shiny buddies.
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Thanks wfinley, This is fascinating story. I read about that first in the book my friend gave me for my birthday at the begining of the year. Their expedition was barroom challenge. I like that. Fred called their expedition: "simply phenomenal, one of the most noteworhy expeditions of all time". They climbed North Peak (wrong peak) and dragged a spruce pole, fourteen feet long. Idea was to fix the pole on the summit as a proof of success. Pole could be seen from the bar. Maybe? They were hard core. Mentioning them as a comparation to our climb (in the same post I opened) it's outstanding compliment and honour. Our climb is miserable comparing to their. They climbed Sourdough Gully in 12 hours. All expeditions need 3 days now (some 7). They climbed wrong peak but they are true summiters for me. I would like to have beer there in memory to Stuck who said once abot Denali: "I would rather climb that mountain than discover the richest gold mine in Alaska".
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Thank you. You have a style. I wish I can write like you. maybe my comments will be more meaningful. When English is a second language it's really hard to say what you think, but you got to the point. I don't have any hidden agenda.
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I agree with you. I felt bad when we approached them. My clothes and my gear was adequate mostly for PNW. When I started thinking about Denali climb and realised how much I have to buy I sat down with my wife and had long chat. I have a two kids too. She knew it will affect us financially but she was very supportive. I think she got little sick over the years from all my movies, Internet surfing and my mountaineering books. I don't have many inerests in my life. Mountains are in the epicenter. We all here know what WB on Denali is. It's not Colin's Denali Diamond! It's not Marko Prezelj's Cassin one day ascent! It's intermediate mountaineering objective. So, when our leader sent letters to couple of companies we thank him and went shopping and gear whoring. I sold some stuff on MEC gear swap and bought new more appropriate gear. And... They responded. In communication with them we found all of them environmentaly sensitive. We first got free breakfasts from very small privately owned company from Vancouver Island. http://www.naturespath.com/ We got Spot device (but we have to purchase service). I love this small unit and I don't like cell phones or sattelite phones on Denali (or any mountain). ERA offered carbon offsets for 5 of us from start to the end of the climb. www.findmespot.com Another small company gave us Arcteryx Rho bottoms for free. Green Printer gave us Solio charger. www.greenprinteronline.com Cliffhanger gave us each set of five climbing tickets. www.cliffhangerclimbing.com Power bars gave us all bars. www.powerbar.com/ca Bauly Foods gave us 30% off. http://www.bauly.com/Site/Home.html MSR jumped in and gave us Lightning Ascents for free. http://www.msrgear.com/ ROI www.roirecreation.com will give us silk underwear and offered pro-deal on Deuter packs and Hestra gloves. Did you see that Hestra heli gloves made to the top of Everest? www.deuter.com http://www.hestragloves.com/www/live/hestragloves/HGStartPage.aspx?TreeID=402 Mike is very special. http://www.wiegele.com/ He said to us:"Please work your way almost to the end of preparation and tell me what you couldn't get. I'll give it to you". I reached my goal along the way. I don't think I need anything from him. I just would like to shake his hand. Pro-deals came from Cloudveil http://www.cloudveil.com/ , Yates http://www.yatesgear.com/ and from my favourite: Wild Things http://www.wildthingsgear.com/ Ther is now 40Below (Thanks Joel!) http://www.40below.com/ and IntuitionSports (Thanks Rob/Crystal) http://www.intuitionsports.com/ You know ... Up to that point I was very grateful for support from all these environmentaly sensitive partners. But when I unpacked my Wild Things stuff it was something. I really can't express my feelings. You have to see Belay Parka or their pullover. You have to see their Mountain bibs! Man, o man ... I know you personally will reject their offer (Good god, how much sposorship does it take to get to Alaska) but I couldn't. I hate to admit that I have little financial problems when mountains and expeditions come. Many things at home have a higher priority. You think differently and on your expeditions, I bet you didn't even bother asking someone for help. You just swiped your Mastercard. I think that is the best way.
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I can't even tell you where we will go after the climb. Regardless is it successful or not. I really can't. What a Hell ... I will just point where and you can guess... http://www.wiegele.com/v3/360/index.php?language=eng&scheme=blue&plugin=yes#
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Thank you for wishing us successful climb. It's my biggest mountain so far. Thank you for explaining our motives too. I was not aware of them. I was thinking we doing well. I don't think so "deep" like you guys. I am not very educated... I was just thinking that neutralizing our carbon offset during expedition is not bad idea. I will even purchase carbon offsets for my family for 2008 from ERA. I calculated it from here: http://www.econeutral.com/carboncalculator.html I am sorry for that. I even did so many small things last few years to minimize my impact to the planet thinking I am doing well. I don't own 4x4 and I ride my bike to work. Oh, well ... To late to change that. Regarding religion and motives... I came from Eastern Europe to Canada 10 years ago. There, I unfortunately grew up without God's presence. I had great childhood and many years after even without Him. It's to late for me now. I am lost soul. My deep roots are in Christianity (Orthodox version) but I am not religious. Since you linking our Carbon Neutral climb with Church of Christ believe me, I am looking forward to meet them there. I remember their post here at CC and, honestly, I would like to say hi to them. Sorry for this but I support their motives. I hope you don't mind? For me it's hypocritical that many climbers who grew up in religious families in US and spent many, many Sundays in Church are so bitter about their motives now. At the same time when you talk about their motives with Russian, Yugoslavian, Slovakian, Polish or Chinese immigrants (climbers) who came from fomer communist countries (here in Vancouver) they all accept their motives as a personal and reasonable choice. How come some "evil communist lost souls" support them? How come that you who understand religion better than we will ever be able to (even if we try our best) make fun of them? Z
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Hi CC-ers, Could you please visit our site when you have moment? This expedition site is the proof that you can achive a lot even on the intermediate route as WB. If you are genious like our exp leader... He did something for all of us, we couldn't even imagine at our first coffee meeting several months ago. http://cleanenergydenali08.com/ Zoran
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Does anyone using back braces for extended backpacking with pack over 40lb or more? I am in late 40's and never experimented with that. On the Web I noticed that people using back braces for skiing or heavy backpacking. Or even extended trekking on expeditions like Equador or West Buttress of Denali. I am not sure are they using belt during the hike or after to releive pain. Could you recomend some resources or (much better!) share your experiences? I have back pain after heavy lifting or extended tours. Thanks in advance. Z
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Did anyone from your group roped up with skis and snowshoes on the same rope? Do you think this will cause bit problems for either one? Z
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Update from Colin down in Patagonia
Zoran replied to olyclimber's topic in The rest of the US and International.
Colin is wold class now. Outstanding talent! After climb with Rolo and Steve House I am now waiting for his climb with Marko Prezelj and Vince Anderson. I bet will be something fantastic. Good luck Colin and be safe. Z -
I got T-handle AviTech shovel for 37$CAD (it's 50% off) + tax (12%) on top of it, because I live here. I think it was good deal. Z
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Do you think Arcteryx SV Fission will be good enough in mid May. I think it's warmer than DAS. I worry about hood. It's tinner than any hood on lighter down parkas. http://www.arcteryx.com/product.aspx?Fission-SV-Jacket
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Just a little. I am not planning to get drunk. BTW, I am from Europe originally. From some undeveloped country. We don't even know what hypothermia is. But sure sounds ugly.
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Group of us, Canadians should be there from 23rd to 25th of February. We would like to test our gear (and read some books). :-) I will bring some whiskey. Please look for us, so we can chat a little. Zoran
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Scottish climbers climbed in Waddington this summer. Here is an article: http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web07-08w/newswire-geddes-north-scots They had a great time in Frontier group. I think Don will be pissed off. Just kidding ... Z
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first ascent [TR] First Ascents in the Stikine Area - Various 8/9/2007
Zoran replied to suge's topic in British Columbia/Canada
Fantastic! It's very good you have a friend who is willing to go there and suffer a little. Thank you for all the photos. Excellent trip. Zoran -
Phelix Creek and Mt Sproatt Winter Access Issues
Zoran replied to jordop's topic in British Columbia/Canada
You dont have to be a BCMC member to sign this petition - see link below The link to the petition is: http://bcmc.ca/SignPetition.asp?PetId=2&Action=Sign