Zoran

June 22nd noon-8pm June 23rd 9am-6pm June 24th 9am-6pm I am not sure how good anymore is this for you, our lovely American friends? Maybe you should pass this time and come next year when CAD is 50C US?

I forgot to mention that Pozini's comment about summit pyramide climb will be appreciated to. He is outstanding climber and frequent leader. At the same time, his opinion will be based on his skills to access capabilities of the group, not only can he climb that or not. It is very important to have skills like that and give appropriate advice to others.

Hut is very often visited by people who go there to drink and socialize smoking pot. I know, nothing is wrong with that but sometimes they check out your gear too. :-) Two years ago we lost some stuff (small stove, thermarest and miniature alarm clock). Our mistake. We started at 2AM from hut to climb Garibaldi and didn't even anticipated someone will steal anything. One time ranger arrested guys trying to steal gas from my friends truck. We smelled gas around truck and my friend worried he damaged reservoir on the way up. Latter, police call him at home and informed him about accident. Regarding climbing Garibaldi I would really like if Dru, PaulB or Jordo can comment the climb itself. They are better climbers than I am. Notch is enough big for 2 to 3 tents.It's not perfectly flat but when snow covered, platform could be made and bivy will be perfect. I have never slept there (we had lunch twice) but I can imagine drinking tea and watching sunset and sunrise. I would like to hear from you about that after you come back. Approach is long but trip will be something you won't easily forget. If you like to bag a peak go to Brohm, if you like to have memorable trip do Elfin approach. For more info about route you should look into bivouac database.

If you pick Elfin approach and day trip from the hut (very good idea!), don't leave anything in the hut. Bring stuff up higher and hide it. Bivy notch (from Alpine Select" book) is absolutely outstanding place. Climbing peak will be challenge for novice climbers but maybe Dru and Jordo disagree. Z

Hi Wayne, Here is ad from bivouac. I am not sure is he still looking for partners. Ad is there for a long time. Frank is from Portland and in bivouac his contact is not listed. Maybe Don can hook you up with someone. Cheers, Zoran Waddington (10 days) Update StartDate: 2007.07.28 We are looking organizing transport into the waddington-combatant col during these dates. Flight in and out is 550 per person. Many alpine snow, ice and rock routes are easily accessible from this staging area. Contact Frank Heimerdinger if at all interested.

WHISTLER A 34-year-old missing skier who was last seen on Blackcomb Mountain Thursday, was found dead by searchers on Sunday. He is not BC resident and looks like he died from hypothermia.

Author : Marko Prezelj, Kamnik, Slovenia

Avalanches kill four ski mountaineers Four peple have been killed in three separate incidents in the French Alps and Pyrenees today. The first avalanche occurred around 13h00 in the Pelvoux range at 2400 meters altitude. An Italian skier in his 60s was caught in the slide. Rescued by members of his group he was pronounced dead by a doctor brought to the scene by the CRS helicopter from Briançon. he avalanche risk was Considerable (3/5) with a strong wind from the north to north-east. The 50cm of fresh snow in the Pelvoux had formed many unstable slabs under the action of south then northerly winds. A young couple were caught by an avalanche at 16h00 on the west face of the Grand Mont d’Arêches (2686m) in Beaufortain range in the Savoie. The victims were Coralie Molliet, ski instructor with the ESF and Loïs Maurin also a ski instructor and competitor in last year’s gruelling Pierra-Menta ski mountaineering competition. Both were natives of the ski resort of Arêches and well known in the area. The accident has come as a shock to the alpine village. The Meteo France avalanche bulletin gave the risk as considerable above 1700 meters in the Beaufortain. The bulletin warned of new soft and hard slabs formed under the action of a strong north wind as well as older slabs still present under the fresh snow and said that they were poorly bonded to the freeze-thaw crust or were resting on a weak facetted snow layer. These slabs could be triggered by the passage of a single skier. At Porté Puymorens in the Pyrenees three climbers triggered a slab avalanche on the east face of the Pic de la Mine. Two of the climbers were suffered multiple fractures during a fall of 200 meters. One was able to alert the fire service in Andorra by mobile phone and they were joined by specialists from the French CRS. A third climber, aged 37 year old Spanish national, resident of Barcelona, was recovered in a serious condition but died while being taken to hospital in Andorre-la-Vieille by helicopter. The avalanche risk was Moderate (2/5) at the time. The bulletin noted some slabs formed by the recent light snowfall and strong winds, largely on steep north to east facing slopes.

Babelfish is not perfect for Chinese translation. 简体中文版 is suppose to mean: Would you like to learn Chinese? I have software for you.

简体中文版

The first ascent of Chomo Lhari’s 6,000-foot Northwest Pillar by Slovenians Boris Lorencic and Marko Prezelj won the 16th Piolet d’Or. In this particular climb Marko led all the pitches. (Dru mentioned previously about some of the MP's climbs with Steve House when he led the hardest ones).

I think Slovenians are great climbers. Very small country but producing amazing climbers. Whole country is small replica of British Columbia. Janez Jeglic was one of the instructors I had long time ago in Tamar valley. I met there Maria Frantar too. She died in Himalayas and once was the leading female high altitude climber in the World. Marko Prezelj, Tomaz Humar, Silvo Karo and less known (for North America) climbers are amazing (Rok Zalokar, Ales Kozelj, Aljaz Anderle, Grmovsek etc.) Slovenia was hit in last 10 years (or more) very badly and they lost several outstanding alpinists due to accidents. Personally I think Russia is the world climbing leader now. They have extraordinary base for success. For example here is the list of Russian alpine instructors. Please review and comment if you like: www.bced.gov.bc.ca/sat_survey/access.htm Another impressive list is list of Russian Snow Leopards http://www.summitpost.org/list/235234/the-snow-leopards.html Would you like to see it? Here you go! It's the list of all with the year when is achieved (starting at 1961 to 2005) ... So in 1970 officially there were 15 climbers who had 5, 7000m peaks in resume. If country was open like Italy or Germany they could rule in the Himalayas.

Climbers talking about your climb all over the world. Especially in Slovenia, Italy and Germany. Patagonia is their playground. I too think it's one of the best climbs recently. Kelly is coming to Vancouver soon. I am looking forward to see his slide show.

Waddington is amazing! I hope you will one day find time, energy and spare fuel to fly over SW BC mountains (Chehalis, Joffre area, Rexford, Garibaldi etc.) Thank you for your pictures. Zoran

I have Cloudveil Summetry pants. I think they are havier than Arcteryx Gamma AR but cheaper. Cloudveil still can't beat Arcteryx products in weight but quality is very very good. http://www.cloudveil.com/mens/v-pants/CV03002/ MEC Tactics are great but I think they are warmer than you looking for. Price is perfect! Arcteryx is the best option if you have money. They will last very long.

http://www3.telus.net/vazor/G17/ This link is for pictures taken on Sunday, Oct. 29th. Don was leading second group there. Cheers, Zoran

Few guys from Vancouver and Squamish are right now on the ridge. They left yesterday afternoon and plan is to return tonight. I'll post some details for you ASAP. Z

I witnessed same thing on our approach to Wedgemount lake this spring. My friend broke his BD trekking pole (brand new). Pole snapped at the fat spot. It's amazing! No bend at all, just snap. Looks like he used the saw. I have recently retired my LEKI Alto model after 6 years of abuse. They are bent that much that I have difficulties even to pull out lower section. Tips are slightly bend too but no damage at all. I lost flakes two seasons ago and there is no point to buy new ones. Tiny spots where they will hold is smooth as metal section. I used them last summer without baskets. Two days ago I bought MSR poles for $30CAD. Model is Overland 1 done by Gabel in Italy. I hope they will last half the time of my Alto's. BTW, I have BD Traverse for skiing. I am not impressed. Zoran

Thanks Don. I hope in few days we will read outstanding story about survival, where two great climbers escaped troubles unharmed and completed Infinite Spur. Both girls are climbing jewels. Zoran

Thanks. Z

I will first time order something from this site. Is it possible to order hard copy of your book only? Is that cheaper option or this is the best possible deal right now? Regards, Zoran

Thanks for the pictures. West Lion is always attractive place. In any conditions (even in rain). You had solid weather.

CJ001f/Robert, My apologies for price mixup. I should check this before posting reply on yor post. Still I think you can have better deal in Cham3 if you nagotiate. Service was bad. It was frustrating. I agree. At the end it was OK because I don't have unlimited budget. There is no better service level than here in Canada/USA. For sure. Europe is far behind. I never ordered anything from Telemark-Pyrenees and I heard they are very good.

One more thing, I bought them in Europe too. From Cham3 and final price (with all taxes and shipping to Canada) was 573.58 $CAD. Don't buy them in North America. Try them here. Look at this price in Vancouver: http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_detai...D=1137010532873 and add 14% taxes. Terrible. Zoran