Zoran

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Slide Show from last week end's Ice Climbing Ecrins in L'Argentiére la Bessée

Do you know anything about new Marmot mountain packs for 2011 season?

Congratulations to John! Fantastic objectives for all teams. This is real alpinism. Mugs award is something very special. I personally love this Waddington plan very much! Good luck to Damien and Jim! Baintha Brakk was very important objective for Europeans and Japanese. Looks like Colin will solve the puzzle Huber's couldn't. I am amazed how good he become. Exceptional talent!

In North America ... The most influential Canadian to me, is Don Serl and Greg Lowe for the rest of our Continent. P.S. Tomo Cesen is Slovenian. Dane, your question is easy. Ask for The Most Influential European ice climber. This would be hard ...

Haley Solos Patagonia's Cerro Standhart alpinist.com

Televisio de Catalunya How beautiful is Catalunya. My, my ...

Yuji Hirayama

This year winners in Korea are Yasushi Okada & Katsutake Yokoyama for their ascent of Mt. Logan South Face. Grivel news

Dry Tooling

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Have a look into redesigned Pieps Plecotus 36. Soon it will be in REI (I think!) or on line ... People tell me it's on heavy side but I like my pack. I am old fashioned and don't care about 2-300g more. It has separate compartment for avy gear. Other option is Mammut Nirvana. Nice pack.

I have 220 Pieps Carbon. http://www.pieps.com/en/avalanche-probes/pieps-probe-carbon Noticed that people worry about length of the probe and buy 260 or 300 probes. This is very good ... At the same time some carry small size plastic or metal shovels. I have Mammut Alugator Expert. http://www.moosejaw.com/moosejaw/shop/product_Mammut-Alugator-Expert-Shovel_10085215____?cm_mmc=Affiliate-_-AvantLink-_-na-_-3057_f106d7f5&ad_id=Avant&avad=3057_f106d7f5 It's great when my partner finds me deep below at 2.5m but how fast he can dig me out with kids size shovel? I cut on the length of the probe to add on the size of the shovel. Maybe not very good option. It can slow you down if you are in hurry.

Tragic news! Condolences to his family. Joe was exceptional person. He was very talented in presenting his work. I was hoping I will meet him in person one day. Great loss for all of us.

Saturday November 13th, 2010 Millennium Place (MY Place) in Whistler, BC Silent Auction and mingle with Barry 6:00pm - 7:30pm - Bid on a variety of items from major outdoor gear-suppliers as well as local businesses. Silent auction items include some wonderful donations to this year's event. These items include heli-skiing packages, mountain equipment and clothing, local artwork, and winter training courses. Barry will also be present during the auction and is looking forward to meeting as many of you as possible. Multimedia Presentation 7:30pm - 9:00pm - Tickets available in person or by phone through Millennium Place 604-935-8410 (beginning October 12th). Price: $15 Beer and wine will be available during the Silent Auction. silent auction Ticket-price includes admission to the Silent Auction and Presentation. Each item will be accompanied by a form that lists the item and its value, as well as the minimum bid price, and a place for your name, your contact information, and your bid price. As you enjoy a beverage, feel free to move around and inspect the items on display. If you would like to bid on an item, then, on the accompanying form, place your bid along with your name and etc. If others are interested in the same item, then they will bid as well, but at a raised bid. As interest builds and more people bid, then the bid price will creep higher- as established by those who are bidding for that specific item. Some items receive more bids than others. Bidding for all items will end shortly before the presentation begins (at about 7:20pm). Once Barry's presentation begins, then the bid forms will be collected and the highest bidder for each item will be posted on a 'Master' list outside the doors of the auditorium. Once Barry's presentation is finished (9pm) and audience members begin leaving, then check this list on your way out of the auditorium to see if you were the highest bidder on the item(s) you bid for. If so, then you can claim your bid item right there at the 'Gallery', before you leave, with either cash or cheque (please make cheques payable to the 'Association of Canadian Mountain Guides' with a note on the memo line: c/o 'The Brian Ebert Memorial Fund'). Credit and debit card terminals are not available to pay for silent auction items at this time. The local 'North Shore Credit Union' bank is nearby, in the event you wish to use the ATM there. We look forward to hosting you on November 13th at Millennium Place. Best regards and see you soon! Sincerely, The 'Brian Ebert Memorial Fund' Directors & The West Coast Committee of the ACMG

Dry tooling and Ice climbing in Gressoney, Aosta valley, Italy [video:vimeo]8978565

http://www.quiteapair.us/william/whitney/photos.html

http://www.grmoclimb.net/?str=502&aid=38 Not many ... Cheers, Zoran

Slovenian couple, Tanja & Andrej Grmovsek (pronounce: Grmov-shek) visited Cirque of Unclimbables this summer. Their climbing resume is so impressive. Andrej is not only phenomenal climber, he is a very, very lucky men. He married a good person and very talented climber. He doesn't need to argue with wife or ask for permission to go climbing. How good is that!? [img:left]http://www.grmoclimb.net/javno/smeri/p1110322.jpg[/img] Tanja & Andrej Grmovšek: - SE Face, Lotus Flower Tower, V, 5.11-, 750 m, (both fee on-site), 3.8.2010 - The White Tower, Terrace Tower, III, 5.11, 250 m (both fee on-site), 5.8.2010 - Power of Silence, Middle Huey Spire, V, 5.12c (13a), 400 m (Andrej free), 8.8.2010 - Riders on the Storm, East Huey Spire, V, 5.12d, 400 m (Andrej fre on-site), 13.8.2010 - Club International, Bustle Tower, V, 5.11b, 600 m (Andrej free on-site), 15.8.2010 few more pics: [img:left]http://www.grmoclimb.net/javno/smeri/p1110009.jpg[/img] [img:left]http://www.grmoclimb.net/javno/smeri/p1110237.jpg[/img]

You guys probably have seen this incredible video: Matt is featured in new Climbing issue (October 2010) with his new idea (anti-cam) http://www.bluealpine.com/the-season-episode-9-matt-maddaloni/

Thank you for your presentation. It's very valuable to all of us. We recently had three missing persons near Vancouver BC. Very tragic events and our hiking/climbing community is still coping with that. Three young lives are lost. We had Spot on Denali in 2008 and it was good for tracking the movement. Issue was that (probably?) because of not very skilled use, log and data were wiped out suddenly. Spot was used exclusively by one person and I never paid attention to it. Our families worried, until we borrowed the sat phone at Camp 4. Since then, my wife is not very supportive of any of my plans to go somewhere. On Logan we had a sat phone (GlobalStar with one battery only). Service was not very good but we managed to use it. It was OK but I personally think texting is the way to go. Combination of Earthmate and Spot looks promising but price is outrageous. Even with the pro-deal offer I can't afford it. I am in constant search for the affordable and reliable solution. Zoran P.S. How about to integrate sliding keyboard in Spot, add small screen, slash price to 50$ for hardware and add pay-to-go option. Buying SIM card fof 10$, 20$, 50$ or more will make sense. Also, charge per text message should be 25 cents or less. :-) Maybe GlobalFinder from Pieps will be the solution? We don't have all technical data yet but it could have a satellite modem as an option. Let's see the price when it comes out.

I have no experience with integrated gaiters boots. I just want to say that M11+ looks so good. Also, I am very impressed with design and material of the new Hyper-traction model. Price is very high for Kayland boots ... Let us know latter in season how good M11's are.

Please contact Michael Lim at 778 997-4922. He is one of the organizers for BCMC. ACC Vancouver also organizing climbing night on Thursdays. Martin is the organizer: http://www.accvancouver.org/events/details.asp?eventid=367 Cheers, Zoran

Also, I never remove battery and mostly keeping camera on, all the time (at home or in mountains).