TrogdortheBurninator

Are you looking for rock or alpine routes?

Blake, If you belay 150# directly off your harness, then the weight on the anchor (or your harness if things arent tight) is 150#. If the rope goes through a directional, you have 150# on one side of the biner (from the climber), but also you must be placing an equal load on the belayer side of the biner (otherwise things wouldnt be in equilibrium). So, that 150# climber places a 300# load on the directional.

FYI, the highway will still be closed for ~ 1 more month. I'd imagine there is a lot of snow on the routes still. You could probably climb some steep sunny stuff if you were inclined to put forth the effort. You could also climb that coulouir on SEWS>

I thought you'd appreciate that one arch. My wife and I took a guided float trip on the yakima. That fish was taken on around a 14 chernobyl ant with a green body. My wife actually had the biggest fish of the day. About as long as the one pictured, but maybe 30% fatter. The one pictured was the prettiest though.

Looks like great conditions. Nice TR>

My Saturday involved about a dozen of these. It was good.

It was in all last spring and summer.

So tempting! Stupid work. Have fun

Cascade Alpine Guide, Challenge of the N Cascades. Both by FWB.

Nice work. Looks fun. Were there still good sticks on the route, or mostly drytooling?

It was nice to meet you guys. Glad you made it up safely. I suppose we should thank you guys for giving us a reason to skip the runnels:) Mark's description is classic. FYI, the spin drift was natural and hit us too.

You hiked ith Billy Joel? Cool! What are you training for?

Cool! Looks like nice weather.

Trip: Dragontail - Triple Couloirs Date: 3/31/2007 Trip Report: On Friday evening Aaron, Mike, Justin and I left Bridge Creek, arriving at camp on the south end Colchuck Lake around 11:30. Saturday morning was a bit windy, but after a little extra sleep, things calmed down so we decided to check things out. We started up just behind a party of two. For some odd reason most of us entered the first couloir by climbing a short neve ramp up to some sloping sketchy rock. Justin, climbed the right side snow and found great conditions (recommended). After sketchy while scrambling rock, we finally made the first couloir and made reasonable time up to the runnels where the party ahead of us was just racking up. Things looked pretty good, but apparently conditions were thinner than they appeared. After waiting an hour or so, and knowing the 2nd pitch was supposed to be the crux, we decided to leave the other party at the runnel and take the 2nd option in selected climbs. As stated in the description, option 2 takes a left hand couloir almost exaclty one rope length past the start of the runnels. this is a faily narrow couloir, and it had phenomenal conditions. We simuled up to the highest left trending snow ramp (Aaron and Justin used the lower snow ramp, which had a previously established rappel point). After some sketchy dry tooling, we ended up above the top of the runnels, where we decided to rappel. A short ice step with great climbing in a narrow chimney slot brought us into the 2nd couloir which again had great generally great conditions. We continued simuling up to the base of the 2nd-3rd couloir runnel. The pitch started with a small ice step leading to some slightly runout and sketch climbing. The last couloir seemed really long, but still afforded good protection and generally enjoyable climbing. We continued this simul lead directly to the summit where we hung out for a while and enjoyed the views before heading down. Regarding the lower runnel pitches, maybe the other party will chime in. Apparently their leader took multiple falls (Aaron and Justing heard the screams and talked to them later) on the 2nd runnel pitch. They reported very thin conditions, so buyer beware. A few more parties were heading up there today, so maybe one of them will be able to report first hand on runnel conditions. Gear Notes: TCUs from blue to red #1 and 2 link cams Half set nuts 3 bugaboos 1 LA 5 slings 3 screamers 4 screws (only used 2 at one belay) 2 pickets A few more slings would have been nice when simuling, but we got by. Approach Notes: Road snow free for 3/4 of way. Snowshoes helpful on trail, but could probably be left behind if approaching/descending after conditions harden up. Lots of different tracks leading to lake, they all probably get there eventually.

Beat you to it earler. Maybe he's just helping out the ever growing list of users ignoring you

that is really scary. Really glad you made it through that Oly.

except that key chain biners are a lot lighter and cheaper

I was looking at the same things at home depot for my umbilicals. Like these http://www.hobbytool.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=360 100lbs-340lbs I think the weak point is that miniscule pin.

Seems like a poor choice for first lead. The crux has trick pro IIRC. Classic is the harder climb, but definitely the safer lead. Bomber gear the whole way.

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/520096/page/0/fpart/3

Those look like hardware store snaps. Rated to just a couple hundred #s IIRC. Scary!

Dont worry oly, the smut persists .

Id say ballard if you want to rent, Lake City if you want to buy. Lake city is getting better by the minute; they just tore out a few more blocks for more hip retail space. nwclassifieds.com (seattle times) has some listings not found on craigslist.

uhh, it was a quote