TrogdortheBurninator

you could get the link cam for 20% off at REI right now if you are a member. Softens the blow a little. (Then again you could also apply the discount to one camalot). I would echo what Will said, and add that if your primary partner does not have a rack, you are probably best off going with the 2 and 3 camalots (or #2 link cam and #3 camalot). I would especially go that route if you think you will be able to buy more small cams in the not so distant future. On moderate routes small cams are often more of a convenience than a necessity, whereas the med-large camalots might be the only pro available.

We got there early enought to find parking. The lines were sorta bad, but manageable. Ch 6 was closed when the lifts opened, so we took a lap on forest queen, then got three more runs on Ch 6 as lines got progressively worse. Eventually the line on ch 6 was extending well back towards the trees, but luckily that time coincided perfectly with the opening of the north backcountry. I'd imagine Sun was a lot like Sat, but with additional new snow and the added benefit of intermittent sunshine, with some full on blue sky, throughout the day. Just so you don't feel bad, I'm sure it was a couple degrees colder on Saturday morning. I'm sure tomorrow will be awesome as well.

Truthfully, I was surprised they opened the backcountry, but they were bombing all morning and the made the decision to open. The snow felt surprisingly stable. I guess the lack of wind (comapred to fri night) allowed things to stabilize a lot more.

Anybody else ski crystal today? It was amazing. The snow in the N backcountry was the best I've had in the last 5 years. 5' of cold freshiez.

Feeding one rope at a time is only really necessary on sketchy clips. If the climber is looking solid, treat the two ropes like one rope. When feeding one half rope, I will feed the clipping rope, then as soon as it is clipped I take in a little slack. Then I will feed an apprx same amount of rope from the unclipped side side. Now I can treat both ropes as one again as the climber climbs past the protection. In general I prefer half ropes for everything except sport climbs and plumb crack climbs. The extra redundancy gives me a huge boost in confidence. On alpine routes the only time I would prefer a single is for a longer approach with a walk off. I will also use a single if my partner insists/prefers.

yes, starting from the cave on the left.

The REI ones are Cholatse TH (thinsulate lined). The goretex ones are cholatse GV. I think Zappos.com has the GV.

I just picked up a brand new pair on ebay for $130. So far, they are pretty good. I have the gore tex ones. Mine are sized on the small size, so they are super precise (deal was too good to pass up so I sized down 1/2 size more than I would have). They walk pretty well, quite a bit if ankle flex. Heel hold is awesome, which allows them to be sized down without risking hurt toes. My only complaint so far is the outer arch gives me a lot of pressure. I put in heat moldable Soles footbeds, but still feel pain. Hopefully my foot or the boot brakes in soon. I have this problem with most boots though, so I dont think it has to do with these boots. Also, they are a pretty light/thin boot, so not the warmest at belays.

Sorry Wayne, I meant m6

There is still a bit of a difference b/w a fat grade II ramp that starts on the rd and your intimidating gr 6 on SCW. Anyone who drove down that rode could plainly see that the buttress was fat this year (much fatter than the past few years I've seen it). I'm sure that cappelini influenced TRs maybe kicked off the onslaught a little earlier, but I find it hard to believe it would have gone unnoticed all season by those less adventurous had it not been reported then. I am bummed I didnt get on icicle buttress this year, because it looked great.

Brian climbed up to take photos. Scott lead from the bottom, then we all just TR'd from the little cave corner. Plenty of room actually.

Here are some pictures http://picasaweb.google.com/Jason.Killgore/RockiesIceClimbing

that's because i "guided" a party up it and reccomended it to another earlier this season. both of whom provided tr's on this and the other local spray site. without the spoon fed baby food the sheep would go elsewhere. lesson: stop posting your lame tr's and they'll all go back to lillooet. nothing worse than pick scars and kick holes. I'm sure no one would have realized how fat such a well hidden line was if you hadn't spread the word.

Looks like some cool skiing. Too bad the weather turned on you guys.

Are you sure about that Dru? Must have been overnight then, because we drove that road yesterday afternoon.

Except that it is pretty badly sun rotted.

I thought that was pretty crazy too. Lets see, we have one guy FA free soloing 5.hard way off the deck, another guy soloing hard high altitude alpine routes, but instead they give it to a glorified boulder problem without any of the risks associated with soloing. I think they just wanted to give Sharma something, and they figured no one would care if the better soloists got slighted. Otherwise, heaven forbid they'd have to take the piton away from another beloved boulderer or sport climber. (BTW, I think Sharma's climb is still awesome)

Gaiters on Slab (pink line)

here are a few more pics from aaron

So then, is your line the deep slot? Very cool indeed.

I was referring to "The Dihedral" at marble, not the P-S dihedral.

Awesome work!! That direct slot left of (what I assume is) your line looks cool too.

Did dihedral ever form up this year? It was definitely thin around the new year.

OMG!!

Is this some sort of Emperor's New Clothes thing? I can't see the pictures. Guess I'm not worthy. Nice work nonetheless.