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Everything posted by Chad_A
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Tried these on at a local shop; they fit me like trying to get a square to fit inside a circle (my feet are just a bit too wide; pinky toe ends up jammed harshly into the side). The guy said he could stretch them in the right places, but no guarantee they'd ever be perfect. I've heard about the M-Finity by Vasque, and the Boreal Ice Master. The Freney XT seems to be a bit heavy for what I'm looking for. (Edited to add this part) My intentions for the boot are for easy alpine rock, and with an emphasis on ice climbing. So, weight, technical ability, and a rigid plaform are key. Anyway, thought I'd ask and see if anyone has any other ideas.
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And now for something completely different (namely, a post that doesn't have a crossfit reference in it).
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I've already been there. It's called Huaraz, and they only have light beer.
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Hey, Ade, Looks like you had a good time. I was hoping that you'd fared better than I down there, but sounds like the bugs got to you, too. That picture "how many burros does a climber need" is great. When we were heading into the Santa Cruz, it was hilarious; two arrieros got in a fist fight over who was going to take us in. Two of our other pals had an arriero who insisted that one burro could only carry one pack. It was ridiculous. Anyway, thanks for sharing
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So is your summer going going out with a bang?
Chad_A replied to Peter_Puget's topic in Climber's Board
mmmmm Tetons.....sounds good. I spent my summer in Peru puking and shitting my brains out. Upon getting healthy, the weather came in, and never really left until the bus ride back to Lima. Now I'm left trying to get back into shape for the remnants of the season... -
first ascent [TR] Cutthroat Wall - Easy Getaway (F.A. III 5.10-) 8/29/2007
Chad_A replied to Blake's topic in North Cascades
Christ, Blake. Looks fun. Good for you for getting out this summer. -
http://www.accessfund.org/pubs/vt/VT74.pdf "Access To Hyalite Canyon Ice Climbing In Jeopardy, MT By Emily Stifler The new Gallatin National Forest travel plan severely threatens access to the world-class ice climbing in Hyalite Canyon near Bozeman, Montana. The plan closes and gates Hyalite Canyon road, the only reasonable access road to the ice climbing, between January 1 and May 15. This decision effectively reduces a 5-month ice climbing season to five weeks, eliminates 77% of all ice climbing and over 92% of the beginner and intermediate climbs in the Bozeman area. How you can help: 1. Take a 5 minute survey The Southwestern Montana Climbers Coalition’s and First Ascent Press have created an online survey for all ice climbers. The results of this survey will help in policy arguments for access to ice climbing resources in other areas, as well. The survey can be accessed at www.hyalitecanyon.com or directly at: www.surveymonkey.com/s.asp?A=167794934E65415 We encourage all who are interested in ice climbing to take a few moments to complete the simple survey even if you have not visited Hyalite. No sign up or registration is required and your responses protected by secure encryption. The data will provide extremely useful, if not necessary, information to present our situation to the Forest Service regarding the adopted Gallatin National Forest Travel Plan. 2. Write a letter to the Editor of the Bozeman Daily Chronicle The Bozeman Daily Chronicle has already published a number of letters from local and non-local climbers that has had an amazing effect on local politicians. Ice climbers now have at least one city and one county commissioner attending meetings. A well constructed, short letter to the Bozeman Daily Chronicle citydesk@dailychronicle.com urging Supervisor Heath to reconsider her decision to gate Hyalite Road and open 3 miles of road for winter access that will save over 140 ice climbs, from the climbers across the country will be useful in applying local political pressure. 3. Stay informed For more information, recent discussions and updates go to www.montanaice.com/forums. Background information: This final plan, entitled 7M, is the culmination of more than four years of discussion, public comment periods, private meetings, letters to the editor, and ongoing debates and arguments among user groups. 7M designates the road beyond the gate for “family oriented cross-country skiing,” and leaves ice climbers with two choices for access after December 31: a lengthy backcountry ski, or a circuitous, ungroomed, remote snowmobile route that experienced, local sled-heads call “advanced and difficult riding.” The Southwest Montana Climbers Coalition (SMCC), the Access Fund, First Ascent Press and many other concerned individuals and businesses are currently working hard to explore the options to protect this climbing access. These groups may need to launch an administrative appeal to the Forest Service, and need more statistics on ice climbing use in Hyalite Canyon. The more climbers take the survey, the more accurate and effective the data will be." I don't know if the survey is still viable, but this issue as a whole should be. the ice fest, and support Hyalite!
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my anaconda don't want none unless she's got buns, hon
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Glad to see this happening again, especially if Hyalite is to benefit from it. If you're not familiar with the Hyalite access issue, here it is on the website (scroll down). http://www.montanaclimbers.org/accessissues.html
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Looks like our glaciers (and ski resorts) might get a good reprieve this year. "The recent SST forecasts for the Niño 3.4 region range from ENSO-neutral to La Niña (Fig. 5). Nearly all of the dynamical ENSO models forecast the continuing development of La Niña during the next couple of months, and several of the statistical models also indicate the continuation of La Niña conditions through the end of the year. Therefore, current atmospheric conditions (stronger than average easterlies over the west-central Pacific) and observed oceanic trends indicate that La Niña conditions will further develop and possibly strengthen during the next 3 months. Based on current conditions in the tropical Pacific, the most recent model outlooks, and on results from historical studies on the effects of cold episodes, wetter than normal conditions are expected over Indonesia and drier than normal conditions are anticipated over the central equatorial Pacific during September - November. During this period, potential impacts over the contiguous United States include wetter than normal conditions over the Pacific Northwest and drier than normal conditions over the southwestern states." http://www.cpc.ncep.noaa.gov/products/analysis_monitoring/enso_advisory/ensodisc.html
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Wow, goregeous pics! Thanks for posting
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My mom gave me a beer on my seventeenth birthday. God bless her. Since then, I'd guess my best birthday present was standing on the summit of my birthday; June 20th 2004.
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fender four had the pickets covered. I have a set of Saloman 11.0 size "Super Mountain 8" boots that might fit. Super comfy, just too many boots in my closet. You can PM me with any requests, I might be able to throw you some stuff I don't use anymore.
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Dan and I used his Betamid (or Betalight?) in the Stuart Range in some shitty late spring conditions; I only had a light down bag (32 degrees) and it proved to be a nice roomy shelter, relatively speaking. That said, I'd felt like I'd gotten away with something on that trip. If it were my only winter mountaineering shelter, I'd search elsewhere. Or, if it were, I'd back it up with something, say, like a BD Winter Bivy just to make sure that my bag was somewhat protected. What exactly are you looking for? For the Coast Range, or do you want to use it on Rainier? One thing I've learned, is that, if you're suspecting bad, wet weather, an extra pound or two is worth the security of a nice, bombproof tent. Sometimes, if you try to go a tad too light, you can screw your chance to "wait it out" for better weather. But, who cares what I think?
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European dude. Eurospiders. Eurotrash. Not Asian, although they may be heading that way next. You got the rest of it right but forgot that there are also 2 kinds of aliens inhabiting the earth right now. The big ones and the Greys. Greys are the little ones, which the big ones eat, and they eat an occasional human as well. And you call yourself a teacher..... ______________________________________________________________ Jim also has Stewart's stuff - young Chris pulled it off and gave to Jim. Evidently a #7 stopper held the fall and is now fixed as a testament to both the strength of stoppers, and as a way to commemorate Stewarts fall. Praise be it wasn't an Alien, or you'd have been lunch eh? Damn RIGHTEOUS CHRIS! PS- never mind; looks like the gear has been salvaged.
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ACTUALLY, THEY ARE CURRENTLY HEAVILY INFECTING ALL OF THE AREAS WHICH I ENJOY CLIMBING AT. Bu not at any of the sucky places which you all can crowd into and get on no worries. You folks are all on notice now. Currently that list is Beacon, the Butte, and Ozone. Broughtons is OK, I don't climb there much - the climbing is good, and there are nO spiders. These things came down from CAnada eh. Hobo spiders. Ugh. Hobo spiders. Damn...just had a HOME INFESTATION of them. Not good. Run while you can...they're invading my kitchen as I post. Stewart, glad you're okay. Somehow, I'm sure that you'll get your stuff. If a partner and I were to end up in that area, we would certainly save your gear for you, no worries.
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You know a news story is going to be good when...
Chad_A replied to ClimbingPanther's topic in Spray
I'm surprised that it's not coverage of something on Hood or Rainier. -
[TR] Mt St Helens - Monitor Ridge 8/18/2007
Chad_A replied to olyclimber's topic in Southern WA Cascades
I'm scarred for life. -
Beer:30. Don't mind it; it'll end soon enough and the rock will dry soon enough.
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Has anyone mentioned "Breaking Point" by Glenn Randall, yet? If not, it really is a great read about the first free ascent of the SE Spur of Mt. Hunter. It also has some great insight on John Waterman.
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Cool, that's why I included the disclaimer. Is it just because of the stress it involves with the lower back?
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For Ben and for brokenpick... I'd check out stuff like maybe the La Sportiva Nepal or maybe the Boreal Pamir...something along those lines. They're great for summer volcanoes, and they work well for ice climbing as well. Just a thought.
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Another honorable mention is the Concordia Public House at NE 33rd and Killingsworth. They have the most interesting taps, from differing regions, that I've seen in this town yet. I believe the pancake place that Cobra speaks of is the Hotcake House, open 24hours, on Powell and....well, it's near the 99. Probably at 15th or so? The usual sure thing, especially where you'll be staying, is the Cup and Saucer at Hawthorne and SE 35th. A gent in Bellingham this past weekend said that Stumptown was indeed invading Seattle...it's already being set up. I guess it was only a matter of time... Check out the local rag, Portland Mercury, for shows going on (including the Hawthorne Theatre, real close to where you'll be staying).
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A yoga instructor I know once suggested, well, not quite on your knees, but with your butt on the floor, beween your knees; your feet in back of you with the bottom of your feet facing up. Then, slowly bend backward until your back is on the ground. Or, go as low as your body will let you. You can do one leg at a time or with back support. Disclaimer- This just happened to work good for me. I don't know it this is incorrect in some way; in other words, might want to ask a professional of some sort before you try it.
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[TR] Bugaboos - B-C, Cooper-Kor, etc. 7/23/2007
Chad_A replied to colt45's topic in British Columbia/Canada
Just read the TR. Thanks for posting, and for the pics. Looks like a great time; also, congrats on the engagement!