Chad_A

Good to hear you're okay.

The following dispatch was sent to Alpinist by Colin Haley from El Chalten. Alpinist will post updates on Crysal Davis-Robbins and other news as the Patagonian season unfolds. --Ed. For the past few weeks that we've been in Patagonia, the weather has been mostly no good, and the only climbing that got done were smaller routes in mediocre weather. Maxime Turgeon and I climbed El Mocho via Todo o Nada, two Swiss climbed Guillamet via the Amy Route and two Swiss climbed Poincenot via the Whillans route. One of the Swiss on Poincenot frostbit his toes. There might have been other routes climbed, but none that I know of. During the past week we finally got some better weather. At first the weather maps showed an awesome four-day window, but it gradually shrunk into twenty hours of truly good weather. On Friday the 14th Maxime and I climbed Stanhardt via Exocet in mediocre but not horrible weather. It was windy and socked in the whole time; we climbed almost entirely in our belay parkas, and the chimney pitches had some of the worst spindrift I've ever encountered... It was really fun! Two Norwegians attempted Exocet the same day, but turned around at the Stanhardt col (the base of the route). advertisement We rested the 15th and 16th, and the weather was mostly bad those days. On the 17th Maxime and I climbed Fitz Roy via Supercanaleta, approached from Niponino (in the Torre Valley), and descended via the Franco-Argentine. This was the best weather day, and it didn't start precipitating again until around midnight. On the same day, two Swiss climbed the Benetiers route on El Mocho (but didn't summit), and three Italians climbed Media Luna (Salvaterra route). They were all Compressor hopefulls, but decided the weather window was too short. Zoe Hart and two climbers named Joel and Octavian, all Americans, climbed Rafael via the Anglo-American route. Two parties (one Argentine, one American) attempted Exupery via Ciaro di Luna, but both got off route early on. The Americans bailed relatively low, but the Argentines kept going (perhaps on new terrain?). The Argentine headlamps were seen high on the wall once it got dark--I don't know if they topped out or not, but I suspect not. Crystal Davis-Robbins and a Chilean partner attempted a new route on Aguja de la Silla, and like Maxime and I on Fitz Roy, they approached from the Torre Valley up the Filo del Hombre Sentado (Sitting Man Ridge) (and broke trail for us--thanks Crystal!). When Maxime and I finished rappelling the Franco-Argentine, we saw Crystal and her partner across La Silla, at the col between Aguja de la Silla and Fitzroy. We yelled "Como va!?" and got a reassuring "Todo bien!" in return. I haven't seen Crystal back in town yet, so I don't know whether or not they succeeded on their new route. Since the window turned out to be so short I suspect they were not able to, but if they did they certainly climbed it fast! I also heard that sixteen people attempted the Franco-Argentine on the 17th, but no one summited. Maxime and I saw their tracks stop at about Pitch 5 while we were rappelling the route. So, in conclusion, the weather's kept us to a few ascents of commonly climbed routes--unless Crystal was successful. We're all awaiting that news. [On December 20, Haley sent another update, reporting that Davis-Robbins and partner "bailed on the new route attempt fairly low, partly because of loose blocks, partly because of the short weather window." --Ed.] http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web07-08w/newswire-patagonia-haley-update

Nice pics, I have to sack up and get to Cody one of these days. Looks like a good time...I'm sure the Stumptown helped out with that, heh.

You can borrow mine and make copies if you like; I don't plan on going back there anytime soon. -C

I see what you're saying, and that's what they told me, as well. Basically, I have a tendency (genetically) toward the fast twitch side of things. They explained to me that most people, on the average, have about 25% fast twitch, 25% slow twitch, and ~50% of fibers that are trainable either way. So, the physiologist put together a plan for an average 5-day workout week, due to work constraints. She said to do a 1.5-2 hour (or more if possible) workout of Zone 1 per week (118-144 HR), two days of Lactate Threshold work @ 165-169 HR (my test said that I was able to dispose of Lactate at a reasonable level, but that I could use some more LT work to help my muscle cope and dispose of Lactate a smidgen better), and two days a week interspersed with all of this of Zone 1 to help recover...30-60 minutes of this, no more, on these days to promote active recovery without taxing muscle recovery. Supposedly, this routine would help my recovery time, yet work on the aerobic enzymes to help me go longer, and yet maintain VO2 max and high intensity ability. I'd like to have myself tested again this spring to see if I've managed to change any of this.

I'm sorry, I have to post again. I can't believe no one is on those pillars in those pics! Dammit all....what I would give to have something like that right now near Portland... Good that you all are getting out there and making a go of it. Be careful...sounds like the Cascades are getting a good dump right now. Cheers, Chad

Goddamn it, I have to get up there. Thanks for the pics, those pillars look f'n fun!

Thats's the best post I've seen in a while...

I believe that this is an oversimplification. Sure, work out hard, get trained, whatever...but people like me that have fast-twitch muscle tendencies need that long, slow "fat burning zone" training to build the aerobic muscle to burn the fat. I was startled to see my physiology test results...the MD said that I was way too overtrained in the high aerobic/anaerobic, and that I needed to log much more time in the lower HR zone to let my body get good at not running on pure glycogen the whole entire time. Hence, less crashing. Back to the original question, I put a couple of GUs in my left front pocket, a couple of bars that sound good in my right pocket, keep the hydration tube handy (if it's not brutally cold) and pack in a sandwich that sounds good for mid day (unless I'm on a climb that won't allow such a rest).

That's fair enough; I don't think anyone can really classify what punk is, and that's the beauty of it. So, on that note (and back on topic), my favorite punk bands are the Circle Jerks, and old Bad Religion.

Kiss's background can't be compared with Black Flag, in the same way that Henry can't be compared to Gene. Not that Henry embodies Black Flag. The were around quite a while before he hopped onboard; he just happened to be their last singer while the band was still together...and even then, even though "punk", Black Flag within it's own genre was "superstar status". I like some of his music; it has some interesting blues influence at times...and at others, it's nothing but Pearl Jam with a loud tatooed guy at the front.

That's the sad part...without even trying, they're still more punk than 99% of the "new" punk. I like Henry 'n all, but he doesn't embody punk for me like he does for some people. But he is very good at marketing himself.

wdzAAWHKjGU I don't wanna hear it.

Sb-DTrMG4vs

They count more than the others you mentioned

Might want to look around for the Omega's predecessor, the Alpha. Good boot for what they are; just don't expect the thermo liners to be durable.

Portland, fuck yeah. My liver is swollen with thanks as we speak.

As soon as you're back at the car after the climb, get them out of the pack so they dry out. Then, when you get back home, apply a bit of WD40 or whatever and wipe off the surface rust. Piece 'o cake.

Rock on Can't wait for December!

sure does. i can't convince myself why it's considered progress to artificially make hard climbing harder. case in point - i watched a couple climbers i greatly respect for their abilities struggle like hell on a gnarly problem at Marble Canyon last January - both were using leashless tools, and getting crazy pumped. when they finished up, i had a go, and cruised the climb - mostly cuz i could focus my energy where it was needed, i.e. making the sticks, placing the feet, and making the moves, not desperately hanging onto the tools and continually running the mental calculator on how much "time" you had left before you dropped off like an over-ripe plum. these guys both are better ice climbers than I am, and stronger too. they just were wasting a huge proportion of their 'ability'. I'm old enough and comfortable enuf in my skin to not give a rat's ass what 'fashion' dictates, especially when that fashion is being propounded by bored, hyper-ambitious (and, admittedly, superbly strong and talented) Frenchmen dependant for their living upon having you buy the fruits of their influence. leashless tools are undoubtedly the ONLY rational choice for modern dry-tooling/ mixed routes - but that's not what I climb. meanwhile, every leashless tool I've swung so far (and I HAVE tried lots of 'em out) swings like a Neanderthal gardening implement on pure ice routes compared to a wide range of modern-day waterfall axes. heck, they swing and place considerably more poorly than the heavy, straight-shafted tools I used to use 20 years ago. and that's BEFORE you tie strings to the back end of them to interfere with what balance you can get into the swing! swing them that is, if the strings don't get tangled in something and cause you to waste yet more energy trying to sort out the cluster-fuck... one of the two or three homilies than I run my life on comes in its most succinct form from N.A.M. Rodger: "The only useful measure of quality is fitness for purpose". a pair of Quarks with a pair of Androids on them, thank you - THAT's "quality", not some stupid system of strings and elastics to keep you from dropping your effing tools when you're so pumped you can't even close your hands around the grips any more. aw, shit, don't get me started... cheers, Wow, Don, feel better? You're in rare form on this one! Bah, I just like leashless because it keeps my hands warmer, and the screaming barfies away. My Quark Ergos swing excellent, IMHO. Haven't messed with the umbilicals yet.

Not very good. They're awaiting a good dump. PS- nice TR and pics, Daniel! I see that you found something to climb.

Goddammit, that's frustrating. I'd like to see the look on the thief's face when the cops knocked on the door.

Thanks much, good reality check. I need to make sure I get my stuff out of the truck every night...

Thanks to Dave Repnik for posting. 11/9/07

Ditto that cost; it's about what I spent on mine. My podiatrist also referred me to a good running shop in my area that watches you run, and puts you in a shoe that fits your foot stride. That alone was a big step in my recovery. Good luck, hope your feet get better.