Chad_A

I think you succeeded in many ways on this trip, IMHO. Thanks for the report; the pics and the writing are great.

Don't forget a flask of your favorite beverage... The "crux" slab You're in for a good time.

I picked up a Winter Bivy last night from a pal who isn't using his too much these days, so I'm covered for now; but eventually, I'd like to get one of these: The South Col looks like it has everything, except tie in points. I really like the fact that it has a side zipper to help ease the entrance/exit. It's mid weight; heavier than a Winter Bivy, lighter than a Big Wall. Thanks much for the input, everyone, and John, thanks for the offer. I don't know when I'd be able to get to you to borrow one (out of town lots these days for work at Astoria), but I'd be interested to hear which one you prefer and why -Chad

Hi, Ann, Thanks for posting. Looks like I'll be heading to the Stuart Range with an old pal of mine; sorry I didn't get to you sooner. Cheers, Chad

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Looks like I'm all set to go....

Well, my ailing Big Wall Bivy has been dealt it's final blow (move expensive to fix than it's worth), so I'm looking for a lighter bivy sack. The original idea was to buy a BD Winter Bivy for colder/drier outings, and to take the Big Wall in when the forecast wasn't guaranteed to be dry. Now, I'm guessing the best bet is to get something somewhere in between the two. Any recommendations? I've seen the Integral Designs online, as well as the Wild Things sack; the ID piece looks nice, as it has a partial zipper on the side. If anyone has used either of these (or has another recommendation that I haven't thought of), please let me know. Thanks!

Awesome pics, and thanks for the TR! The more I read about this route, the more I want to do it.

Very cool, Doug. I think I need to move up to that area. Thanks for the TR; great pics.

Thanks much, sounds like they'd be a tad too small for me. Bump for a good deal

Do the Ice 9000s run big, or just about right? I have a relatively narrow foot, and wear a 10-10.5 street shoe. Where are you located at? Thanks much.

Haha, well, I didn't want to pick on him...he appears to be new around these parts.

No worries, mate. Heading to the Cordillera Blanca for a month and a half to get stomped by sugar snow flutings, gastrointestinal distress, and altitude. I'm sure it will be humbling....

Funny, if I'm sleep deprived....I'm more likely to want to stay in the sleeping bag.

Who gives a damn about how someone clips their daisy chain? Not that I've ever done it this way or anything

Probably mostly snow; I was up there Sunday. Didn't get much of a view, there was a huge cloud cap over it, but I did get a brief glimpse of the gullies, and it still looks really snowy up there. You're almost guaranteed not to find any ice, unless there's some at the upper rockband in the right gully. I'm sure it'd go just fine, but it's usually more fun around November/December after some early season snow and freeze-thaw, and it's mostly in the shade during that time of the year. It's kind of Northeast facing, so it does get early sun at this time of the year....if you go for it, go extra early in the day.

I guess I'd second Baker. The C-D camp area (5600 ft?) is a great place to hang out, and the hike in is relatively short. Or, maybe not a climb, but just take them up on the Muir snowfield and show them around; that's the place I was taught self arrest. If you're willing to drive a bit more, the SS Hood/Illumination idea is a great one, too.

Thanks much for that update Edit: I think I'm supposed to add a here or something.

This week: Monday: Lactate Threshold intervals Tuesday: easy aerobic run (60 min), rock gym Wednesday: easy aerobic elliptical, rock gym Thursday: Lactate Threshold- tempo training Friday: easy 30 minute elliptical, easy swimming Saturday: rest Sunday: alpine climb (hopefully...or taking the gear for a walk)

How about the hooded version of the Mammut Stratus? http://www.mtntools.com/cat/techwear/Down/mammutstratushoodedjacketvest.htm

All I wanted was a Pepsi, and she wouldn't give it to me. Just a Pepsi. Institutionalized.

Is the washout getting fixed already? Sooner than I thought...

She needs to gain some weight.

Yeah, I understand that...I just figured that if I was going to go back to school, I wanted to do something that sounded very interesting to me. I've worked in the OR, and it's not necessarily a pleasant place to be, all around. As it stands right now, I work 30-35 hours a week, and make 60+ grand a year; not so bad. I'm just tired of doing it, and the situations I end up in because of my job makes me feel as if my license is in jeopardy almost on a weekly basis. There's a reason there's a Nursing shortage, FYI. Thanks for the suggestion, though

Thanks for all the great responses; I will be sure to check out both WWU and CWU. Depends on where I can get the gal to move to, though