Chad_A

Hey, Dan, One of my old climbing partners saw this post and emailed me- sorry to hear about the rough times, but glad to hear some of your vision has returned. I'll PM you my contact info; perhaps some time I could stop by and say hi. I occasionally make the trip down to the Duthie Hill bike park and could easily take a detour toward you. Hope things continue to improve. All the best, Chad

Thanks, Bill. Looking forward to seeing the finished project. Hell, might even prompt me to dust off the 'pons and axe and stumble up the South Side with the old bros one day. Cheers, Chad

Or, devils advocate, just go ahead and treat them. The factory treatment will only last so long. Might as well go ahead and waterproof them before you end up on a trip with wet feet. It's just like anything else, your mileage may vary. I like the Nikwax stuff, worked well for me. I waited for my old leather Boreals too long, then they leaked...treated them and they were clearly much better.

Donn, Thanks for the trip report and happy to have you any time! Great pics and the "dog pork" Ziploc photo really made us laugh. Here's to another great trip for you up there. Best Regards, Chad and Megan

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Looks like a cool test to do; too bad I haven't had HAPE (yet). Good luck in your ventures.

Please do, interesting to hear input.

Really liked it, fun to watch. Need to get one of those cams for Mtn biking if nothing else. Music? Who cares. Good to listen to even if I'm not a fan; it illustrates a component of the vibe of the climb. Thanks for posting the video.

Feel free to come over any time, just give me a ring. I owe you at least some laps on that thing; some of the holds are your donation after all! A brew or two and the Ipod blaring makes for a fun atmosphere. Megan's doing great; almost 13 weeks along. The ultrasound was crazy- alternating between having his/her own party in there and taking naps every few minutes

Hey Tyson, Try Mount Shuksan Family Medicine. 3606471900 Kirsten is a nurse practitioner; her husband Bob is a sports PT if I remember correctly. They work together in their office and they're both skiers (and have been instructors at Baker on and off for quite a while). Probably would be a good fit for you. Hope this helps Chad PS - I hear indoor dry tool walls are great recovery work for injuries such as yours (j/k). Heal up!

Kurt and Rodney, Great work and thanks for posting!

Great read on the Stuart epic. Thanks for posting!

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I'm here in MT with my wife doing some cross country skiing ; not climbing. Two days ago, for a hike with the dog we went up to Cleo's, was in great shape. Looking across the canyon from that vantage, things looked fine. Go have a look close up for us, and post a report. I'm sure all the usual suspects are in and as of a couple weeks ago the Scepter was in 4 condition, and the Matrix is all ice in fat conditions.

Guess it's different for everyone. I clip screamers to the first few screws, then typically just go to quickdraws (at that point, my rationale is that the half ropes have enough "spring" in them to limit the load of a potential fall). Makes the harness lighter and less cumbersome, too. No, haven't taken any falls, btw. Can't help out there.

Really liked the issue, good reading. Sad about Dave Thomson. Must be living under a rock, hadn't heard about that. Truly a big loss. One more issue that makes me glad they stuck around, but sad they burned the Teton candle...thought they might save that one for the 50th issue, or something. Makes me want to head to the Tetons, though, miss that place.

Just was there (at the usuals) 21st and 22nd. Started the first day on the way into the area at Rambles Centre. Good shape, although the ice was a bit glassy and brittle. Continued on to Robin Hood (thin and probably more like a three than 2+ in those conditions). Per the locals, the whole area up there is thinner than usual. Yesterday, had a slight delay getting out of Lillooet, which led to getting scooped on Icy BC. We stayed off the lower tier while they were climbing above per West Coast Ice's suggestion that it's easy to get hit from people climbing on upper tiers of Icy BC, while you are leading on the first tier. There really isn't much to climb on the lower tier, btw. The 3+ in the alcove around the corner isn't there, and there's no ice on the bolted routes on the wall between Deeping Wall and the alcove climb. Not sure if there needs to be though. The Deeping Wall was pretty aerated so rather than lead it we set up a TR on it in the meantime to keep busy. Good steep fun. Bad news is when you do that, you get scooped by yet another party on the lower tier. Just part of the game though.

Previous generations- George Lowe, Jeff Lowe. Incredible vision in their accomplishments. Current generation- Will Gadd. Always brings the stoke, is humble, and is always forthcoming with info for us "meeker" ice hackers. Local - how can I forget Don Serl? EDIT: unsung heroes - my partners Keith, Nate and Andy which have always been influential to me.

We'll all be much less safe without Frank Drebin on our side. RIP Leslie Nielsen.

I own an '06 Jeep Liberty CRD (turbo diesel). Good truck so far with 85,000 on the clock. Passable on forest roads and getting into the Ghost in the CDN Rockies. 25-30 MPG for a full 4wd capable vehicle ( depending on conditions, diesel quality, hills etc), biodiesel compatible. Interior space is limited, but I can almost stretch out diagonally with the back seat down. Good for going to Hyalite with decent mileage and not sweating snow drifts.

Is this the Tilly Jane A-Frame? And when did this become a pay to stay thing? Of course I moved away last year so I haven't been paying attention... Not to say it's a bad idea...the place could probably use some income to keep such a neat historical building up to some standard.

Yeah, I guess we all just have to be patient. We considered trying to get down to the top of some potential mixed fun stuff, but this nasty cold virus I have made me think it'd be better to be warm with a cup of tea...or a nice stout. Tyson, if you're ever on my side of town, give me a ring, and bring your rock shoes. You're welcome to take a few laps. Bring yer IPod for the stereo system.

I have a pic or two upon request, but I'll just describe it as "not in" as others had predicted... but it looks like it's coming along. Verrrryyy cold when we were at the parking lot; could see from there that the curtain was touching down and continuous but paper thin so that you could see through to the rock behind, clearly. Beautiful day to take a drive up there, none the less. Shuksan looked as Alaskan-esque as it ever was If we don't it doesn't get too caked by snow this next system(s) might be good to go in a little while.

Looks fantastic, thanks for the pics!