Chad_A

I had been climbing on Quarks for a couple of years, then ran across a set of the new Cobras for a smokin' deal. This happened just before a nine-day trip to the Canmore area, so this is my humble impression (I climbed only leashless, no umbilicals). 1. The smaller grip of the Cobra is much easier to hang onto than the Quark...but I have small hands 2. They're very "head-light". Then, again, I climbed with micro-hammers on both tools- this could be helped with use of the larger hammer/adzes. Also, there were times when I didn't mind the lighter head weight; if the ice was real bad, the light weight allowed me to swing them many more times to clear the bad ice without tiring. 3. The Quarks hook better (no suprise there...compare the pick angles of the two). 4. The Cobras provide less feedback which is creepy at first, but I'd adjusted to it by the end of the first day...then I really liked the carbon dampening effect. 5. Yes, the BD picks are definitely easier to overdrive, especially after climbing the Quarks. And changing picks on the BD tools is a dream compared to the Quarks. Disclaimer "YRMV".

This probably wouldn't be an issue, if it weren't an unseasonably cold/snowy winter, but here it is, per Tom Kalakay email: "You'd best get your last skiing or ice climbing licks in before the annual closure of the Hyalite road on April 1. No, this is not a preemptive April Fools joke. This is a mandatory closure, from April 1 to May 15, that will occur each year during Spring break-up. Your cooperation is greatly appreciated. Please pass the word. Thank you, -Tom Kalakay" I imagine that most of us PNWers are done with ice for the season (except for me...I could climb ice in July) but it might be valid for the odd person who might read this. Cheers, Chad

curtveld- In the same family of that Mountain Hardwear 15 degree Phantom is their 32 degree Phantom. I believe it's under 1.5 pounds, and packs down to the size of a nalgene. I've owned mine for two years, and it's my favorite bag- even seems a bit warm for the rating...and I'm not a warm sleeper At any rate, my two cents worth. Cheers, Chad

Sounds fun! I need to make it there someday...thanks for the TR

Hey, I will certainly take one as well, if you're willing. anderson7149ATcomcastDOTnet Cheers, Chad PS- I'm willing to come up there to pick it up, if you're not into shipping.

Good for you for sticking it out up there, David. Here's to another shot at it for ya.

Great to read your TR, and yes, the avy conditions have historically had the same effect on my trips. If I have to go to the Weeping or Haffner one more time.... Looks like you had fun. Looking forward to going there one last time myself in a week or so. Cheers, Chad

I'm assuming you're speaking of the Evo Extreme GTX? If so, I can look tonight when I get home.

Quark Ergos still available- 250 bucks. Buyer pays shipping. anderson7149ATcomcastDOTnet

Glad you guys are ok. Scary...

Goregeous! Thanks for posting the pics. Looks fun

Quarks SOLD. Ergos still available.

Ergos are in great shape. They climb ice very well for an ergonomic tool. 250 bucks with good picks, firm. Pics below in this thread. PM me here, or preferably, email me at anderson7149ATcomcastDOTnet Cheers, Chad

Another thing you can try is practicing placing screws on steep terrain while on TR. I've done this with friends at Haffner Creek up in Canada, and it helps gauge where you're at. Places like that are great for trying all kinds of different stuff, and getting your efficiency dialed; mileage, to me, is really the key. I believe what sweatinoutliquor says is true about making sure you stay on terrain that is more "humble" until you're ready to up the ante, and don't let any partners pressure you into leading anything you're not ready to. Above all, have fun!

No prob. Enjoy!

Hey, Loren, (sorry, a bit off topic ) Unless I'm misreading your post, it sounds like you're asking whether the extra weight of the Triolet is worth it vs. the loss of durability with the synthetic Charmoz? I can't tell you about the Scarpas, but what I CAN tell you, is that I purchased a set of the Trango Extreme EVO GTX here in Portland over the winter...the synthetic "leather" of them really isn't holding up well. From what I've seen, the Charmoz is made out of similar material. This is my point, that I think will translate to the Charmoz vs. Triolet: I should have bought some of the Trango Ices (yellow version) that are made out of real leather; I can see that, even though I got a smokin' deal on these, they aren't going too last long, especially if I were to do a scree-filled approach. I love these boots so much, that I have a hard time leaving them at home for just about anything...I'd gladly sacrifice a gain of a few extra ounces to make them last a few years instead of twelve months I have two pals who have the Charmozes, but are electing to keep them as a specific, fast-and-light boots that they save for specific endeavors...they predict, much like my silver Trangos, their life expectancy will be short. Hope this helps- Cheers, Chad

It's interesting to see what Kananaskis Country in Canada does for skiers, and ice climbers. Gives a rating system (1-3), explains each rating, and gives examples of popular areas that people travel in (and clues them in as to what a person will be dealing with in that area). Here's a small jpg- and the full size PDF- http://tprc.alberta.ca/parks/kananaskis/pdfs/ATES/ATR_ATES.pdf

Beautiful! When I win my millions, you can come and decorate all the many cabins I will build.

Wow, that looks more impressive that I'd imagined. Thanks for posting the link!

How true. When I moved here from the Midwest five years ago, the locals blamed the bad driving here on the Californians. Maybe true to an extent, but I think the natives here do their fair share for sure. On the subject of Portland, welcome. It's a pretty nice city to live in, as far as cities go, bad driving aside.

per JoJo's email that was sent out: Hello Climbers, After a busy few days the good news is that Hyalite is now open and the road conditions are great all the way to the Grotto Falls Parking Lot. Have fun and be safe. PLEASE go to www.hyalite.org and educate yourself on the current situation and follow the action steps there. Also, www.montanaice.com has information including a specific road condition forum. It is imperative you do everything you can to be safe and courteous to other users and vehicles on the Hyalite Road. Having the road plowed is an incredible gift and make no mistake, if you want this to continue to happen this year or in future years the responsibility is 100% on our shoulders to keep Hyalite a safe and enjoyable place for all. I can not stress this enough. Happy New Year and hope to see you in Hyalite soon. Joe Josephson PS. If you like to XC ski you should check out it out. Hyalite has some great trails!

No shit. Beautiful pic...evidently that snowfield above the ice demands respect.

ACTION STEPS The below steps might seem like a lot of effort but make no mistake, now is the time when your effort will go a long way and is very much needed. Thank you in advance for your time and continued dedication and love of Hyalite winter recreation. First, immediately write and email a letter to the new Gallatin National Forest Supervisor and the Bozeman District Ranger with a CC to everyone on the below list. These are the decision makers in the Gallatin Forest and they ALL need to hear about this. Call, email and ask every concerned person you know to do this. Please write on two or three of the below points or whatever resonates the most to you or something you may have personally experienced. Do not cut and paste, PLEASE spend a few moments to craft an individual letter. This is the single most important thing you may ever do to protect Hyalite Winter Access. Talking Points: * Express to them your frustration with the Bozeman Districts response to the road being plowed to Grotto Falls and the unilateral decision to close the road during a Holiday with no warning or discussion of alternative solutions to safety concerns. * Challenge the Forest Service to answer and produce evidence if in fact over the last few days there were so many additional complaints or problems with stuck vehicles and other vehicle/user conflicts beyond the Reservoir that it warranted closing the road. * Remind the Forest Service that this decision is contrary to the months of hard work, negotiations, coalition building and common ground established with Supervisor Heath last winter. See www.hyalite.org for more background. * If you were in Hyalite this past weekend, express your experience in terms of driving the road and safety. Many of us long-time Hyalite junkies found it to be the safest it has been in years, if not ever. * Describe what having the road open and winter recreation beyond the Reservoir means to you. * This past weekend proved beyond doubt that skiing and climbing (and other non-motorized uses) can easily coexist in Hyalite, and one activity does not be compromised to achieve full enjoyment of the other. Also, the County clearly showed that the road can be plowed all the way to Grotto Falls, obliterating the Forest Services long-held contentions to the contrary. * Explain your willingness to work with the SMCC, BSF, BWAG or whatever other groups you are affiliated with to contribute signs and otherwise educate others and be responsible stewards as we endeavor to change what we call the "Hyalite Rodeo" culture, follow the new Travel Plan changes and eventually achieve the Forest Service's previously stated goal of plowing the road beyond the Reservoir. * Closing the road doesn't allow for attitudes to change. Only by experimenting and finding out truly what it means to the entire community can we evaluate the situation. * If you have seen or experienced illegal snowmobiling or any other questionable activity in Hyalite, mention it, condemn it, and ask what the USFS intend to do for enforcement and education. GALLATIN NATIONAL FOREST MANAGEMENT Mary Erickson Forest Supervisor 10 East Babcock Ave. PO Box 130 Bozeman, MT 59771 mcerickson@fs.fed.us Jose Castro District Ranger 3710 Fallon Street Bozeman, MT 59718 jcastro@fs.fed.us (406) 522-2520 Jonathan Kempff jckempff@fs.fed.us Marna Daley mdaley@fs.fed.us Steve Christensen schristiansen@fs.fed.us Kimberly Schlenker kschlenker@fs.fed.us Here is the list in one line: mcerickson@fs.fed.us, jcastro@fs.fed.us, jckempff@fs.fed.us, mdaley@fs.fed.us, schristiansen@fs.fed.us, kschlenker@fs.fed.us SECONDLY, if you were lucky enough to recreate past the Reservoir after the road was plowed and before it was closed, we need you to write a letter to the Bozeman Daily Chronicle (300 words max, you can do it online). http://bozemandailychronicle.com/ Explain in your letter where you parked, what you did, how much you appreciated that the road was open and a little about the quality of your experience and any other users you might have encountered. NEXT, we need EVERYONE to write in your own words a similar email immediately to Senators Max Baucus and John Tester. Or preferably call the Bozeman offices the week of January 2nd to the 4th. Snail Mail letters take far too long to work their way through the channels. Max Baucus max@baucus.senate.gov Bozeman Field Office - David Cobb Federal Building - the Downtown Post Office 32 East Babcock, Suite 114 Bozeman, MT 59715 (406) 586-6104 Jon Tester http://tester.senate.gov/Contact/ Bozeman Field Office - Jennifer Madgic 211 Haggerty Lane Bozeman, MT 59715 Phone: (406) 586-4450 AND FINALLY, write the Gallatin County Commission applauding their proactive and positive approach to Hyalite Canyon Winter Recreation and their efforts to explore the true value of this asset to the citizens and visitors to Gallatin County. Gallatin County Commission 311 West Main Street Bozeman, MT 59715 (406) 582-3000 Bill Murdock bill.murdock@gallatin.mt.gov Joe Skinner joe.skinner@gallatin.mt.gov Steve White steve.white@gallatin.mt.gov ---- Respectfully, _________________ Joe Josephson