Chad_A

Liked climbing Sunset a few years back. Very cool that you skied it!

Cool, like that route. Looks like it's holding together well. Thanks for the report and the pics.

My first time up there I did the same thing. Not too fun on the boulder field, as Olympic Mtn Boy would attest. Second time down by the stream is much more pleasant. Thanks for posting the TR; Pics?

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Seems like most agree that the Reid Headwall is the best bang for the buck. Sandy Headwall was cool, and feels more remote, but I really liked going up between the towers on the Reid. If you trend toward climbers left as you climb through the gullies, you'll end up at the Queen's Chair, the topout for Reid/Yocum/Sandy; then, you'll get to walk the scenic summit ridge to the true summit. If you pick up "Oregon High" by Jeff Thomas it will give a pretty good description. post-note: I just saw your time window; Mid June will probably be a bit late for those routes this year. Supposed to get real warm this week, and I'd guess that they'll start melting out quickly.

I think you succeeded in many ways on this trip, IMHO. Thanks for the report; the pics and the writing are great.

Don't forget a flask of your favorite beverage... The "crux" slab You're in for a good time.

I picked up a Winter Bivy last night from a pal who isn't using his too much these days, so I'm covered for now; but eventually, I'd like to get one of these: The South Col looks like it has everything, except tie in points. I really like the fact that it has a side zipper to help ease the entrance/exit. It's mid weight; heavier than a Winter Bivy, lighter than a Big Wall. Thanks much for the input, everyone, and John, thanks for the offer. I don't know when I'd be able to get to you to borrow one (out of town lots these days for work at Astoria), but I'd be interested to hear which one you prefer and why -Chad

Hi, Ann, Thanks for posting. Looks like I'll be heading to the Stuart Range with an old pal of mine; sorry I didn't get to you sooner. Cheers, Chad

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Looks like I'm all set to go....

Well, my ailing Big Wall Bivy has been dealt it's final blow (move expensive to fix than it's worth), so I'm looking for a lighter bivy sack. The original idea was to buy a BD Winter Bivy for colder/drier outings, and to take the Big Wall in when the forecast wasn't guaranteed to be dry. Now, I'm guessing the best bet is to get something somewhere in between the two. Any recommendations? I've seen the Integral Designs online, as well as the Wild Things sack; the ID piece looks nice, as it has a partial zipper on the side. If anyone has used either of these (or has another recommendation that I haven't thought of), please let me know. Thanks!

Awesome pics, and thanks for the TR! The more I read about this route, the more I want to do it.

Very cool, Doug. I think I need to move up to that area. Thanks for the TR; great pics.

Haha, well, I didn't want to pick on him...he appears to be new around these parts.

No worries, mate. Heading to the Cordillera Blanca for a month and a half to get stomped by sugar snow flutings, gastrointestinal distress, and altitude. I'm sure it will be humbling....

Funny, if I'm sleep deprived....I'm more likely to want to stay in the sleeping bag.

Who gives a damn about how someone clips their daisy chain? Not that I've ever done it this way or anything

Probably mostly snow; I was up there Sunday. Didn't get much of a view, there was a huge cloud cap over it, but I did get a brief glimpse of the gullies, and it still looks really snowy up there. You're almost guaranteed not to find any ice, unless there's some at the upper rockband in the right gully. I'm sure it'd go just fine, but it's usually more fun around November/December after some early season snow and freeze-thaw, and it's mostly in the shade during that time of the year. It's kind of Northeast facing, so it does get early sun at this time of the year....if you go for it, go extra early in the day.

I guess I'd second Baker. The C-D camp area (5600 ft?) is a great place to hang out, and the hike in is relatively short. Or, maybe not a climb, but just take them up on the Muir snowfield and show them around; that's the place I was taught self arrest. If you're willing to drive a bit more, the SS Hood/Illumination idea is a great one, too.

Thanks much for that update Edit: I think I'm supposed to add a here or something.

This week: Monday: Lactate Threshold intervals Tuesday: easy aerobic run (60 min), rock gym Wednesday: easy aerobic elliptical, rock gym Thursday: Lactate Threshold- tempo training Friday: easy 30 minute elliptical, easy swimming Saturday: rest Sunday: alpine climb (hopefully...or taking the gear for a walk)

How about the hooded version of the Mammut Stratus? http://www.mtntools.com/cat/techwear/Down/mammutstratushoodedjacketvest.htm

All I wanted was a Pepsi, and she wouldn't give it to me. Just a Pepsi. Institutionalized.

Is the washout getting fixed already? Sooner than I thought...