John Frieh

I cant wait to go back

Sketchy Polish guy strikes again! :laf: We found some of his "rap anchors" on Escalator Nice work dude! Sure these might be "easy" but I think they get that label only because of their proximity to other routes. If Japanese Couloir or Freezy Nuts were in WA either would be a test piece for the aspiring alpinist.

http://www.collegehumor.com/video:1910892

nom nom nom

Youth? Surely you are mistaken sir wfinley: TR?

I need to poke around but there is a video somewhere of Tyler + partner if crime dropping a ~40 footer in a two person inflatable raft (both people in boat at same time). It's hilarious

No... I'm still trying to pass the 300 Fuck You test. Speaking of... WSJ

By WOTD do you mean Workout of the day?

186 feet

Nice pic! Bootpack anyone?

Anybody been in since all the snow that fell last week? Bootpack into Stuie currently?

Tough break dude. Kinda scary to hear... I took 3 falls this winter: of those a shorter one was on to a questionable 16 cm ice screw and the other was a 40 footer on to a chockstone (!) 3000' up a route. I dont know if I am super lucky or super fat as I was unharmed in all of them though I broke all my ice clippers in the 40' fall. I can understand your frustration but you're going to have to accept it and move on. Jedi (who posts her occasionally) is East coast based and has been crushing AK routes for the past few years running including the Cassin. He trains hard on what they have out there and has built up an impressive list of ticks. Moving east isnt the end if you dont want it to be.

If only you knew. For what it is or isnt worth the local MT snowmobiler organization helped out greatly in fighting for getting the road plowed for Hyalite canyon. IMO as access to our public lands becomes more and more threatened/limited through privatization fighting for what you and I want will require a louder, more unified voice. To accomplish this will require getting more climbers to give a shit (good luck) or aligning with other user groups that have similar goals (i.e. perserve access). Like snowmobilers, hunters, packers, etc etc Yes they shouldn’t have violated the wilderness boundary. Yes snowmobiles are noisy. Life isn’t fair sometimes.

The future is plastic

Bibler eVENT tent ...

Used this one in AK + 2 very large bandanas (for my neck) http://www.rei.com/product/745932 Are you planning on wearing it under a helmet?

Anybody know if Goose Egg is snow free yet (including approach)?

BD ATC-Sport

Problem here is on this trip I was the MOG... so you might want to make sure/remind Doug that he likes being the MOG or start hitting the chocolate milk Thanks for all props everyone... glad you liked the TR

I'd guess it's nearly all snow right now... I bet if you stayed on the climber's left side you wouldnt have to climb much ice at all. The exit might be sporting a mini cornice this time of year but nothing that would give you the smusho. If you're hoping for some ice climbing I'd give it a week or two. And also consider Stuart Glacier Couloir or Jason's Esophagus on Argonaut... great routes in that area.

Email me with dates and I might be able to help you out

Trip: Alaska - The Great Gorge of the Ruth Glacier Date: 4/25/2009 Trip Report: Summary: April 23: PDX -> SEA -> ANC -> Talkeetna. April 24: Spent most of the day waiting to fly (weather); Paul/TAT flew us to the Ruth camp late in the day (~7 pm). April 25: Toured up glacier/scoped routes. Started snowing around lunch. Snowed through the night and most of the next day. April 26: Snow stopped in the morning. ~1' of new snow when it was all said and done! April 27: Mix of sun and clouds for the day. Toured down to scope The Escalator on Mt Johnson April 28: Climbed The Escalator on Mt Johnson April 29: Rest day April 30: Climbed Wake Up on Mt Wake May 1: Picked up by TAT/returned to Talkeetna. ()^3 and ()^2 May 2: Talkeetna -> Urgent care -> ANC -> SEA -> PDX left to right: Mt Johnson and Mt Wake Details/Pics: I've put this trip off way to long. For the past few years running I've attempted to put a trip together only to have work or something else squash my plans. This year was looking like that... the best I could do was a little over a week off and the list of people willing to gamble the money on a week trip to the gorge was very short. I dont blame them... the odds of spending the week eating, sleeping and shoveling out the tent were good. I managed to find someone willing to take the gamble and met Doug for the first time in the SEA airport. We were in Talkeetna Thursday evening. Friday was a mixed bag of rain, snow and mostly dense fog/clouds... I was skeptical we'd be able to fly but Paul managed to find a window in the system and get us in Friday evening right before the next storm arrived. Fly TAT or plan on spending a few extra days in Talkeetna Saturday morning started out as mixed clouds and sun so Doug and I + Team Harro (who were also in the gorge but looking at some different routes) toured up the glacier to scope the approach to the Root Canal as we'd heard Stirred was in very nice. Shall we go see? Saturday tour By the time we got back to camp the weather had taken a turn for the worse... it snowed through the night and most of Sunday. Common occurrence on Sunday When the storm was all said and done Monday morning ~1 foot had fallen so we let everything shed and settle on Monday. Post storm: Avy on Bradley We headed down the glacier on Monday while things settled and shed to scope out The Escalator on Mt Johnson The Escalator on Mt Johnson On Tuesday we got an alpine start and climbed the The Escalator on Mt Johnson. The Escalator starts with ~3 pitches of WI3/snice which we simulclimbed. Following the initial ice step is a long snow field that lead to the upper runnels (see route pic above). The snowfield Start of the runnels The runnels had it all: soft snow (technical wallowing!), neve, the occasional alpine ice/snice and of course powder over rock. Good times. Hot runnel action As the mountains were still shedding the recent snowfall we had to deal with the semi regular wet sluff. Shower time for John Doug holding his rope out of a slide The runnel ended on the summit ridge which we followed to the top. Where's John? The ridge had a few rock steps We stopped just short of the true summit which is actually a cornice that at the time overhung the north face... a few days prior to our ascent a Polish dude had cracked part of it off as he attempted to stand on the "very top" and had to jump to safety as the "summit" at that time fell down the north face!!! The standard descent is to the Johnson/Grosvenor col and down via downclimbing + some raps. Definately rated on the jingus scale. Please dont squish me We found The Escalator to be extremely moderate (WI3, 5.5, snow!) and long (at least by Cascade standards... 4000'+ !!!) but would have a hard time recommending it to someone unless it was cold temps and they understood the descent has some healthy objective hazards. Still... a great route! I guess we were the 7th (???) or so ascent of the route (3 of those in 2009). Wednesday was a rest day... we spent the day napping, eating and drying stuff out. Wednesday Yard Sale Wednesday views from camp (l-> r): Church, Johnson, Wake, Bradley Thursday we headed back down the glacier again for a swing at Wake Up on Mt Wake. Wake Up follows the obvious gully on the right hand side of the face to the ridge and then the summit ***Note the monster hanger above the North face. This will be of interest later in this TR*** Though we overslept our alarm by an hour (route name irony?) we still managed to start the route fairly early. Start of the route. Note hanger again. Lower portion of the route Approximately 1/3 or so up the route the above mentioned hanger released. Before (note glacier floor) After. I wonder if I still have skis? Some video taken just after the the above pics were taken [video:youtube] We kept rolling (as once on the route you arent under the hanger) and soon reached the supposed WI5 crux. Mid crux which was awesome flutings and a little wet Looking down the crux We found the crux to be maybe WI4 (Cody 3+ ) and very enjoyable. From there the route dogs right towards the summit ridge. You work you way through snow mushrooms and gargoyles. To The Top! Awesome terrain Looking back down Much to our enjoyment the ice continued! We worked our way through more mushrooms and a few short rocks steps Rock step Mushroom negotiations Ice is nice We found a way to gain the ridge with minimal cornice tunneling Gaining the ridge It was nice to be back in the sun! Sunshine! Faced with the earlier avy and the fact that we knew our descent sported a similar cornice we opted to not continue to the summit (weak) and head for the descent couloir before it got any more sun. Wild nice views on the descent [video:youtube] We did one rap on the way to the descent couloiur and one more to get into it. We bombed down the couloir as quickly and safely as possible and began the search for our skis. We were in luck! Though scattered they were intact! These were originally standing up next to each other Doug found his crampon and ice screw bags approximately 1/4 mile down the glacier! Evening commute home We found Wake Up though not as moderate or long as The Escalator still fairly tame (WI4, 5.8) and we both greatly enjoyed it. Our CAN friends Damien and Jimmy attempted the same route the next day and as they were racking up @ 2:30 am the same hanger released again! They ran for safety and though they were both pelted were not injuried! We all flew out on Friday and after an unpack/dry out/repack session proceeded to and (some more than others). Saturday we headed south to ANC minus a quick stop @ intensive care... one of the CANs managed alcohol poisoning after the previous night's festivities... I guess that's what happens when you go switch from kokanee to PBR Shameless Plugs: This trip wouldnt have happened or went as well as it did if it wasn't for: - Doug for taking a chance and going on a bigger trip with someone he had never met before. Thanks for a great trip dude! :tup: - Mark Westman/Joe Puryear/Marcus Donaldson/Roger Strong for answering all my beta/route/gear questions - Team Harro for the Mid and Stove boards and Talkeetna shuttle service - Kurt Hicks for hooking up a ride to ANC - Team Good Times (the CANs) for the ride back to ANC. You fuckers can party like god damn rock stars! - Jared (CO) and Tim (all over) for all the great beta and warm wine (It goes straight to your head!) And most importantly I am deeply indebted to both Rob Shaul/Mountain Athlete and Mark Twight/the Gym Jones staff (Rob and Lisa) for providing me both the tools and motivation to make this trip a success (at least in my eyes it was). Due to a house remodel at the start of this year I had only touched an ice tool twice and had been in the rock gym maybe five times or so leading up to this trip. Regardless of this thanks to their programming design advice and insight I was still able to make 2 routes happen in the 4 climbing days we had during our short trip. Many, many thanks. [soapbox]I find it comical that climbers will gladly drop $$$ on new gear (that they only end up selling a few years later when something "better" comes out) but refuse to spend any $ on a training seminar... something they will "own" the rest of their life and will only improve/enhance their climbing. Go figure.[/soapbox] Until next year Gear Notes: Peanut butter quesadillas! Approach Notes: TAT sucka!

photos from AK usually suck enter the suck! everybody knows you never use your legs to climb anyways! I walk around on my hands all day! weight lifting is gay and stuff! finger strength is all that matters! muscle imbalance is a myth! Steve House only climbed at smith to train for the Rupal Face! And diet doesnt matter! Or recovery days! Protein powder mixed in beer gives you the perfect carb to protein ratio! I have never bonked on an alpine climb! Hiking is easy for me! WE ALL LIVE IN A VACUUM! :grlaf: :grlaf: All kidding aside Im going to wager a beer that what each of you have different training goals as well as very different training backgrounds and as a result have different strengths and weaknesses… That is exactly why each of you should train differently! ONE SIZE DOESN’T FIT ALL! And that’s what Mountain Athlete and Gym Jones will teach you! HOW TO PROGRAM! PROGRAMMING IS KING! That’s why it’s fucking stupid to follow what some pro does… he or she has a very different training history that you do! What worked for him or her will not give you the same results! XXOO John PS: Send me a PM or better email or call me if you want to talk training methods.

May 16-17th 2009 in Bozeman Montana. Specifics here and here. If you have additional questions dont hesitate to shoot Rob an email or me a PM. I've been to 2 Mtn Athlete seminars as well as a Gym Jones seminar and will likely attend this one also.

Yeah... Aaron crushed it this year! And according to him more FAs await out near the "Destroying Angel" route! I cant wait for next year! Maybe you'll finally let me drag you out to go climbing Kevin