John Frieh

Check though I did whip off a new route in Hyalite today I personally would avoid Main Vein, High on Boulder/Moonrise/etc, Triptych Pillars area and anything else that is gully feed but lots of climbs in cody are/will be safe. The wind is nuking right now so I think Bryan and I are headed to the Clarks Fork tomorrow but should be in Cody by Tuesday. Climb safe and have fun!

Levis. Speaking of that route is almost touching. Come on out!

This guy is: Hyalite Canyon Airborn Ranger

Are you a better climber than you were last year? Have you plateaued in your climbing ability? Does your fitness limit your climbing ability? How do you know? Would you like to see first hand how the Exum Mountain Guides and the Teton Mountaineering staff train and learn how to you can follow the same program on your own without having to spend a bunch of money on fitness equipment? If you wanted to climb the nose in a day this summer but only had 6 hours a week to train could you do it? Would you know how to split that 6 hours up? Mountain Athlete Seminar January 24/25 in Portland. A IFMGA/UIAGM Mountain Guide will be covering all your equipment/nutrition/speed tactics questions + one of the best sport specific strength and conditioning coaches in the business will be covering all his findings from coaching top athletes at his gym in Jackson... what worked, what didnt, what the results were, etc etc Feel free to PM me with any questions... hope to see some of you there!

No. Head to Banks Lake or something in Leavenworth. Find something you can top rope.

You're forgetting stitches per inch. But it sounds like you're already made up your mind. Looking forward to a TR with you using your tent!

Bolts are for protection not sentimental value. Replace all the bolts. Use the existing hole if possible. Thanks for the community service Moof.

You cant help it... you're from the east coast BD is actually extremely selective in their raw material sourcing as well as product testing, etc etc hence the loyal following by many of us here and on other forums. I’d say the proof is in the pudding: if you are so confident in your hypothesis take your Wenzel tent as described above on some serious gnar (Mt Washington in winter or something) and post a TR w/ pics. I suspect many of us would give your recommendation more credibility when you have some substance to show for. Cheers!

Driven by recently and had a look? Picture perhaps? Know someone in the area that could snap a photo? Any beta/conditions info would be awesome!

STOKE BUMP FEAT OF STRENGTH!

Packing for tomorrow

Ill be looking for one of those in next year's ice catalog. Slut. Way to make it look easy!

Climbed at Mist today. Pump house is in also. Crown is climbable now or later in the week depending on your screw selection. Climb safe and report back! See you fuckers out there!

Anybody have any recent pics that show conditions? If you're headed that way and have a spare sec could you snap a pic? Thanks

Though I can understand how you might get the impression that I am getting a cut I can assure you (and Rob will confirm) I am not. I am merely sharing the info here because I have seen what Rob's programming methodology has done for my climbing and feel that some of the other climbers here might also be interested in it. WRT to the questions I created those as examples of some of the material that will be covered at the seminar. Those aren’t my personal questions rather my best guess at some of the questions floating around here on cc. I agree to an extent that the above questions can be researched however most climbers that outline their daily workouts are also sponsored and/or have much much more time to devote to training than most of us here. I hope this post clears things up. John Frieh

And see a sick slideshow! http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web08f/newswire-siguniang-ascent

Yes and yes. Having attended a few of these I would highly recommend the later but there are those among us who arent interested in xfit/hybrid fitness hence the option to just attend one. If it isnt obvious 500 is a screaming deal... similar seminar would cost you 1800 @ gym jones!

I suck for just getting to this... got busy at work yesterday afternoon Send me a PM and we can schedule something... Again: my apologies!

I only have an hour a day 3x a week to train… what is the best way to spend that hour? How should I split up the week? 2 runs and a rock gym session? All rock gym sessions? I can only afford a rock gym membership… what can/should I do on my own to train for alpine climbing that doesn’t require fancy equipment? Is an hour on a stair master 3x a week enough for Rainier next spring? Should I wear a backpack when I do it? Pullups: on a hang board? Kipping? Dead hang? On my ice tools? Weighted? Fast? Slow? How often? What is best for me? What is more important: grip/finger strength or pullup/power strength? How do I train/strengthen body tension? How much does stretching factor in? What is the right mix of training and "practice" - or skill/technique work in the rock gym? Stretching? What should I do? Does it help? How does a front squat help my climbing? Or a dead lift? What lifts will hurt/hinder my climbing? Can I get stronger without gaining weight? Can I get stronger and also lose weight? What should I eat in the hills? During the week? Post recovery? Single rope? Twins? Doubles? Tag line? Clothing? Day trip vs Overnight? I live 6 hours from reliable ice climbing… 12 hours most of the winter. What can I do to be ready to climb ice once it gets here instead of spending half my trips trying to get back to the level I was leading last winter? Cam or tricams? Pins? How many slings? Screamers? Vertical or horizontal? Mono? Dual? What do pro climbers do to train? I heard all Colin Haley does is run sprints up hills…? Answers: Join Ron Shaul of Mountain Athlete and Christian Santilices of Exum Mountain Guides for answers to these and any other questions you might have this Jan 24th and 25th in Portland Oregon. PM me if you have any questions. This seminar is a deal!

Yup!

I think DonnV is still out there climbing

New rules: No ice in bucket: bring rock gear Some ice: stubbies + rock gear All ice: 10s/13s/16s + rock gear Would be great if people post what they see/dont see/climb/etc each night

...A BIG CHANGE IN THE WEATHER COMING UP AT THE END OF THE WEEK... A STRONG COLD FRONT EXPECTED TO MOVE THROUGH FRIDAY AFTERNOON WILL USHER IN THE COLDEST AIR MASS SO FAR THIS SEASON...THEN A SECOND COLD FRONT...WITH ARCTIC ORIGINS...IS EXPECTED TO SPREAD EVEN COLDER AIR IN FROM THE NORTH LATE SUNDAY AND SUNDAY NIGHT. AT THIS TIME IT APPEARS TEMPERATURES MAY RIVAL THE COLD SNAP OF JANUARY 2004...WITH LOW TEMPERATURES IN THE WILLAMETTE VALLEY DOWN TO 15 TO 20 BY SUNDAY AND MONDAY NIGHTS...AND HIGHS STRUGGLING TO REACH NEAR FREEZING SUNDAY THROUGH TUESDAY. EVEN COLDER TEMPERATURES ARE POSSIBLE IN THE UPPER HOOD RIVER VALLEY AND COLUMBIA RIVER GORGE...WITH LOWS AS LOW AS 10 TO 25...AND DAYTIME HIGHS JUST 15 TO 25. THE COLD AIR MASS WILL ALSO BRING A CHANCE FOR LOW ELEVATION SNOW SHOWERS FRIDAY NIGHT THROUGH SUNDAY NIGHT. SNOW LEVELS...WHICH IS THE LEVEL AT WHICH STICKING SNOW BECOMES POSSIBLE...MAY DROP AS LOW AS 1000 FEET AS EARLY AS FRIDAY NIGHT...AND SHOULD BE DOWN TO THE VALLEY FLOORS BY LATE SUNDAY IN WHATEVER SHOWERS ARE AROUND. THE POSSIBILITY OF ANY SIGNIFICANT SNOW ONCE THE MAIN SHOT OF ARCTIC AIR REACHES OUR AREA IS UNCERTAIN AT THIS TIME AS IT IS DEPENDENT ON WHETHER ANY ORGANIZED SYSTEMS WILL SPREAD OVER THE AREA...BUT THE POSSIBILITY DOES EXIST.

Dave and I gave it a go a few winters ago but avy conditions ruled it out. I know of a few other attempts but I'm not one to out anyone. Lot of other ice in that valley! Beautiful line... nice work Rolf and Dan!

I can do tomorrow or Wednesday 6 pm -> ??? I just need to know what night is better for peeps.