John Frieh

WA pass? Or Stuart?

Monopoly Ade. Nice work fellas

Heavy lifting. Nicely done!

Consider sending OldManRock (Gary Kirk) a PM. He would have as good idea as anyone and if you reread your Oregon High you'll find his name on a few of the FAs on most of the OR volcanoes

Jeffersonville, Vermont—January 16, 2009—Height of Land Publications (HOL), owners of Backcountry and Telemark Skier Magazines, closed on a deal today that lays the groundwork for the resurrection of Alpinist Magazine. Alpinist, a premium quarterly celebrating mountaineering and the climbing life, closed its doors this fall, just prior to the release of Issue 26. The new owners, HOL, plan to release Issue 26 on March 1, and will honor all current subscriptions. "Alpinist fits perfectly into our family," says HOL president and publisher Jon Howard. "We feel climbers, mountaineers, and backcountry and freeheel skiers all share the same DNA. It's, at times, about being bold; at times about being cautious. Kind of like how we do business." And at HOL, they feel it's a great time to be bold. Jon and HOL partner and Backcountry editor Adam "Howie” Howard are currently in negotiations with the editorial staff at Alpinist to determine who will be at the helm. "We've asked Christian Beckwith to stay on as Editor," Adam says. "I reached him in Mexico where he's doing some non-profit work. After seven years of grinding, he's enjoying some relative downtime. But he's genuinely excited that we're carrying his creation forward. We'll be meeting in person in the next few weeks. Should he not come on full time, Alpinist readers can be assured that someone of comparable skills and pedigree will fill his shoes." Readers can also look forward to the same quality of paper and a large format size. "We want to honor what the Alpinist team has done," Jon says. "It's a piece of art. And we plan keep it that way." Stay tuned to Backcountrymagazine.com and Alpinist.com for more information.

Write a TR! Share the stoke!

Below If you ask me I think a lack of pre trip endurance fitness (aka not enough time in the rock gym) due to a twisted ankle and picking up another house were more to blame than lack of leashes. Sure I could have busted them out and clipped in if I was getting stupid pumped but I think if I would have used them @ the start of the route (both of them) I would have pumped earlier (esp. Home Field Advantage)... both were very technical at the start... lots of tool matching/etc etc. I'm still convinced leashless is the way to go And who's available to climb in Feb?

call a date. midweeks on the east side seem to work best.

1/16/09 190#

Stainless steel crampons Or what Fern said!

World famous pervs Nice work again fellas!

Still here! It helps that assuming I time my trips correctly that I can continue to work while on the road. Speaking of... assuming the temps cooperate Cody should be SUPER FAT really soon... if anybody is interested in putting together a trip shoot me a PM... Ill do my best not to whip

Yup! 16 days of ice climbing for the year for me 26 or so for Bryan!

Trip: Ice Bender - First Ascents Date: 1/10/2009 Summary: Jan 2: PDX -> BZN Jan 3: New route development with Joe Josephson (JoJo), Brian Schmitz and Pete Tapley Jan 4: First Ascent of Home Field Advantage WI5 M6+. Hyalite Canyon Main Fork Jan 5: BZN -> Cody; Cabin Fever Jan 6: Broken Hearts + 3/4 of My Only Valentine + 1/2 of The Left Ventricle Jan 7: Deer Creek hike and bail due to avy; rest day Jan 8: Legg Creek hike and bail due to avy; Stringer full. Cody -> BZN Jan 9: First Ascent of Mustache Ride WI4. Hyalite Canyon Main Fork. Jan 10: BZN -> PDX Details: Not as productive a trip as Bryan and I had originally hoped for but given the avy conditions in Cody during our visit we were happy to climb what we did without getting the chop. But I'm getting ahead of myself... this trip started in Hyalite! We connected with JoJo and Pete for a line that the two of them had been scoping for the past few years or so that is hidden away climbers left of G2. A combination of cold temps (high of -5 one day) and lack of battery power resulted in two days instead of one equipping Home Field Advantage before it was completed. The original idea behind the name was you basically had to be a local to know about this climb (you cant see it from the parking lot and more or less have to be lost to stumble across it) but given that I the non local botched the onsight but Pete and Bryan sent Home Field Advantage seemed an appropriate name. :laf: More HFA info here The boys: Pete sending: Bryan sending: Non local: Pig in space: I really cant find the words to convey how cool it was to be a part of something with two ice climbing heros of mine. Bryan and I were talking about how not even a few years ago JoJo and Pete were nothing more than names associated with hard routes we wanted to climb in Hyalite or CAN... it was a very cool experience for both of us to say the least! Many thanks JoJo and Pete! After BZN we headed to Cody... another ice climbing hero of mine Aaron Mulkey was kind enough to let us crash at his place. Many thanks Aaron! The same day we made the drive we opted to climb Cabin Fever. Cabin Fever: As Cody had a TON of snow the rap bolts were buried so we had to improvise and dig a deadman to rap off. Mountie Skillz in da hillz! Deadman rap anchor sucka! :laf: The next day we headed for Broken Hearts. We either soloed or simul climbed the first 4 pitches. Broken Hearts are for assholes (Bonus: name that song): Which brings us to pitch 5... you get to choose between these two... Damned if you do... Damned if you dont. I went with damned if you dont (or My Only Valentine is what you'll find it in the book as) and guess what... I feel off. Way after the Crux. Third fall for the year... first fall on an ice screw. I suck. Post whip: After my whip we ran over to The Left Ventricle but a lack of rock gear prevented us from sending so he headed home. Left Ventricle: The next day we headed up Deer Creek but avy conditions convinced us to bail and take a much needed rest day. After the rest day we headed up Legg Creek for a swing @ Ovisight but avy conditions killed that idea so we came back out and ran over and simul soloed Stringer. baa with horns??? Stringer: Bryan following: Final pitch of Stringer: After Stringer we packed the bags and headed back to BZN as the avy wasnt getting any better in Cody. On Jan 9 we set out to climb Celo's but on the hike noticed a new pillar in the amphitheater climbers left of White Zombie and Thin Chance. As it was Bryan's birthday we suspected Hyalite was giving Bryan a birthday present! Mustache Ride WI4: Of course it wouldnt be a proper ice bender without some blood... That evening we celebrated 2 FAs in a week + Bryan's 24th bday with approximately the same amount of carbs I consumed the 3 weeks prior :brew: Good times indeed. Gear Notes: Avy poodle Spare drill batteries Belay skillz Approach Notes: Hyalite Canyon road is now plowed regularly thanks in part to those of you that support the SMCC and/or the PDX Ice Festival. Consider making a donation today!

www.mtnathlete.com

If by "mag" you mean future editions of Winter Dance then yes I sure hope so

No kidding! I fell off this one just above the fracture line 2 days later!

Check though I did whip off a new route in Hyalite today I personally would avoid Main Vein, High on Boulder/Moonrise/etc, Triptych Pillars area and anything else that is gully feed but lots of climbs in cody are/will be safe. The wind is nuking right now so I think Bryan and I are headed to the Clarks Fork tomorrow but should be in Cody by Tuesday. Climb safe and have fun!

Levis. Speaking of that route is almost touching. Come on out!

This guy is: Hyalite Canyon Airborn Ranger

Are you a better climber than you were last year? Have you plateaued in your climbing ability? Does your fitness limit your climbing ability? How do you know? Would you like to see first hand how the Exum Mountain Guides and the Teton Mountaineering staff train and learn how to you can follow the same program on your own without having to spend a bunch of money on fitness equipment? If you wanted to climb the nose in a day this summer but only had 6 hours a week to train could you do it? Would you know how to split that 6 hours up? Mountain Athlete Seminar January 24/25 in Portland. A IFMGA/UIAGM Mountain Guide will be covering all your equipment/nutrition/speed tactics questions + one of the best sport specific strength and conditioning coaches in the business will be covering all his findings from coaching top athletes at his gym in Jackson... what worked, what didnt, what the results were, etc etc Feel free to PM me with any questions... hope to see some of you there!

No. Head to Banks Lake or something in Leavenworth. Find something you can top rope.