avnerma

Thanks wfinley! Very encouraging report, not to mention the pictures... I wonder if you (or anyone) would mind providing a simple explanations about the approach to Frizzy nuts. Somehow I don't see any place where this is mentioned. I know that it should be the couloir up London Tower, but cannot find London Tower anywhere, in partuclar not on this map http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zn1E2jlmZRI/Se_CEPvFIkI/AAAAAAAAAU8/Tg5yDSg3EQY/s1600-h/Blog+Map+.jpg Thanks, avner

Thanks for all the replies. This is very helpful!

Hi Folks, Four of us will be in the Ruth glacier May 23rd - June 2d. Were thinking of two types of excursions: (i) one-push on moderately technical ice-climbs (Frizzy nuts, perhaps Ham and Eggs) (ii) 2-3 days excursions like mt. Dan-Beard, Mt. Dicky and peak 11,300. I suspect that for the first type we may be a little late in the season. The second type is probably less weather dependent (barring avalanche issues). Was hoping for some solid information before setting-off will help us take a more educated guess of what will work best. Does anyone have pointers on climbs that are happening now, or perhaps you yourselves just came back and can say what early spring like there this year? Much appreciated!!

a quick update. we made the summit on saturday May 17. the warmest day probably. the climb was un eventful. left 1:30AM and made the summit 7:15AM. The snow was very soft on the way down, but was perfect on the way up. the bottom part of the DC seemsed like it could avalanche quite easily (but I am far from being an avalanche expert) so we crossed what seemd to be the exposed part really fast (that was laready at 9:30AM with the sun baking the slope). Oh, one more thing: I somehow managed to lose my camera (small Pannasonic lenox color silver) near camp muir. It had a black case, and holds a dzen or so pics of the climb... If you happen to find it please bring it back to the ranger at camp muir or paradise. Thanks

we decided to go for it. that is speak with the rangers at paradise and get some TR perhaps. then at muir talk with whoever will be there. if guided teams are heading we may decided that's good enough for us. if not - we will not risk it. thanks for all the comments

I am going up to Rainier on Friday Saturday this week. One of the standard routes from Muir is the plan. I am getting worried with the heat wave mainly because of likelihood of avalanches. I actually came across the link this out: http://www.nwac.us/products/SABSEA . They talk about general backcountry conditions in Washington and elevation 7K and below, so not quite what I, but steel, it's hard to imagine the mountain is not losing stability by the day. Any thoughts? thanks!

OK, great, excellent advice. I will indeed go to fred meyer. thanks for all the helpful comments!

thanks, scaredsilly. I forgot to mention that I get to seattle pretty late (~9pm). And I need butne gas canisters. I guess I am hoping for too much with these parameters, ain't I? thanks

I fly into Seattle late in the evening and go straight to Paradise to climb Rainier. Question is: is there any place that sells gas canisters (for a stove) on the way that will be open? This is going to be on a weekday, not a weekend. thanks!