John Frieh

Oh I have no problem picking on the 'Rado... or at least the slack line, drum playing Boulder ones I'd say if you can climb any grade (3, 4, etc) in Cody you can climb it anywhere for the most part. Hyalite mixed climbs (at least the traditional ones) are benchmark (at least for me). If you can climb The Thrill is Gone you can climb any M4 anywhere. I feel like many of the more modern, bolt protected M climbs are a little soft when compared to the older trad routes but then again that could be the mental aspect at play. As far as getting better more volume never hurt anyone but if "life" prevents you from racking up the days of ice then a solid pre and post season training plan is in order.

BALLERS! Nice work dudes. I hope the forecasted sun for this week doesnt bake things out

As I've only climbed in CO twice I hesitate to comment however nothing I climbed on the right side of the road (Skylight, etc) was harder than a WI4. Perhaps I caught them in fat conditions (???) however taking an educated guess at what thin conditions would look like I have a hard time seeing any of them as the 5/5+ the book rates them as. I could see Ames being a 6 in super thin conditions but the 6 would IMO come from the technical nature of the gear/climbing and not the frequency (or lack of) gear to protect it... that is to say I dont really see Ames (at least the second pitch) being R rated. In the conditions we climbed it in I thought it was a solid 5... MAYBE a 5+ but doubtful. Maybe alpine has warped my opinion but generally most R rated WI climbs I have encountered werent. I cant compare to LW (never climbed there) but I'd say IN GENERAL Bozeman climbs are a little more stout in their ratings. That said we all know Bozeman has some easier and some hard climbs at each grade. For example: climb Killer Pillar and then tell me The Scepter is a 5. Most importantly: they're just ratings. If you climb enough (and you should!) you'll learn to walk up to something and have a good feel for what you're in for just by looking at it. As Steve House says "In doesn't apply anymore. Either you can protect it or you cant"

It's almost as bad as the rampant blog promotion. And no disrespect to Jeff Lowe and the wonderful project. People just need to understand quality over quantity around here

If you're literally wet from sweat at the end of the pitch what belay sweater you wear is the least of your problems.

Very cool looking ice line. Do you know the name of it?

REMINDER: if you are planning on flying anywhere out of Talkeetna this coming year (Kahiltna, Ruth, Tok, Kichatnas, etc etc) if you make your reservations BEFORE Jan 1st with TAT you'll save 50 bucks per climber on your flight. No they do not need exact dates just an idea of how many to expect this season.

You know it! I'll give you a shout next time I'm in the RADo

Short term memory loss? ???

Nice work John. Great to see someone took advantage of that high pressure you guys had

http://www.rei.com/product/766769

Maybe if you bring back Chaps. Or Martlet... Martlet was the king of trolls... MOONBATS!

Kevbone is from Vancouver or I bet he'd go for it...

As my football coach in high school often said "soccer is popular in communist countries" :laf: It would make sense Portland and Seattle have pro teams

alive in Portland!

I might be able to find you a partner out there if you are willing to do the drive solo... let me know

Dont ship them back until they have them in stock.

You get to use the modified tools until the replacements are available. No need to worry.

Thank YOU Mark! Time to Ridgway from PDX: 19 hours Time frow Ridgway home: 21 and change Driving conditions were "interesting" coming home

Dylan doing his best "a young Mark Westman" impression 5000'

Trip: colorado - classics (?) Date: 12/20/2010 Trip Report Summary: 12/15: PDX -> Ridgway, CO 12/16: Finish driving; Camp Bird Road 12/17: Hike to Ames Ice Hose; chicken out. Go back to Camp Bird Road 12/18: Ames Ice Hose 12/19: Drive home Good times with Mark Hauter (vert) in the 'rado. Epic snowfall cut this one a little short but you take what you can get. Big props to Steve for letting us dirtbag at his place. Camp Bird climbs Second pitch of Skylight Choppo's We found Ames in "respectable" conditions and after talking ourselves out of it on Friday (weak) we returned on Saturday with fresh beta and renewed intentions. Cool route. No pictures of pitch 2 as Mark was busy giving me a proper belay. Ames Ice Hose: pitch one and the first part of pitch 2 Mark on the pitch 1 (Mugs start) Mark on pitch 3 Spindrift makes leading more interesting Gear Notes: Dont miss the pin out right at the first roof on p2 of Ames unless you enjoy getting super pumped placing screws. Gear (in order) for Mugs start on Ames: #4 brass nut, Purple Metolius, Red Metolius It should also be noted for the record Mark climbs harder in Koflach plastic boots than most people do in fancy leather boots. Respect. Approach Notes: zoom zoom

Make sure you ask them when they were born as well as when they started climbing. I bet you'll see some correlation

How'd you like HFA? Looks like more ice than when we put it up

I have a pair of size 12 lowa civettas I'd let go super super cheap. Frostbite sucks.

Having had frostbite on my toes before I can say do yourself a favor and find a pair of used plastics in the yard sale forum. They wont cost you much and you will be glad you did. Plastics shouldnt set you back much anyways