OlympicMtnBoy

Try Dave Page in Seattle. www.davepagecobbler.com

Thanks John. I'm trying to be optimistic and think of it as a potential opportunity to secure climbing access for the long term. I know that it may be a losing battle, but it's worth at least getting our voices heard. Perhaps something could be worked out with a new anchor ban and some clean up? Has anyone though of painting some of the shiny hangers to make them blend in more. I know some folks just think it's an eyesore to see a line of shiny bolts in the overhanging amphitheater area when they have drum circles around the fire pit. Out of sight out of mind maybe, or at least lower on the priority list to pull out? Anyone want to help? Sherri, I'm up for checking things out if anyone is interested. I haven't driven by Eaglemount for a while, but I'm out in PT once a month (next week actually). I'll try to drive by there.

Calling all Chimacum/Port Townsend rock climbers! Changes are coming to Tamanous Rock! Yes, it's a choss pile, but I know a few folks still climb there and that it's the only rock anywhere near Port Townsend or Chimacum so I wanted to share this pending access issue in case any of you would like to be involved. This last December the land surrounding and including the rock was purchased by the Jefferson Land Trust in coordination with the Jamestown S'klallam Tribe, and Anderson Lake State Park (managed by Ft. Flagler). The land, previously owned by George Heidigerken, was a development investment and climbing/hiking/dirk biking, etc was at least passively allowed. I have been visiting the rock for at least 20 years. With this recent purchase the land will now be transferred from the Jefferson Land Trust in a couple of years when the loan is paid off to either the Tribe (most likely) or the State Park. The Tribe views this as a sacred/spiritual site and appears to be likely to close access to the rock itself and remove permanent anchors. The State Park has no money and no experience managing climbing issues either. I have been in contact with Owen Fairbank and Sarah Spaeth at the Jefferson Land Trust who I know through work. Few decisions have been made as to the final disposition of the land, wording of a conservation easement should the land remain private, management plans, etc, so now is the time to get constructively involved. I now live in Seattle and only climb at the Rock a few times a year. I would like to know if there is interest from others in trying to maintain access, and if anyone is more local who might be ale to attend relevant meetings to represent climbers, etc. I have many fond memories of learning to climb there and would like to continue to do so. I'm guessing there are more of us out there who feel the same? Background for those of you who have no idea what I'm talking about: Tamanous Rock is located off of Anderson Lake Rd. near the SKP trailer park. There are about 10 bolted routes, half of which are two pitches, ranging from 5.6 to a few overhanging 5.11-12? routes. There are a couple of sketchy trad/aid lines as well. There is also a cable route up the backside used by all sorts of folks to reach the top. You can post up here or contact me at stewartmatthiesen (at) hotmail. or 360-379-9421. I'll try to post this notice eleswhere and would appreciate any help from anyone involved with WCC or the Access Fund as well.

Nothing to add other than I've been up there in Feb before because I could have sworn there was a freeze thaw cycle going on in the weather forecast. Wallowing in deep powder, great for skiing, not for climbing. It's north facing, so it really needs to actually get pretty warm up there during the day a bit for things to consolidate more.

Sounds like a fun day in the mountains! Thanks for the TR and pics!

Check out the sellout.woot.com page (today only). No idea if that's good or what you want, but I think it's a good price. Sunsei 18 Watt Solar Panel and Controller $99.99 * + $5.00 shipping Apologies if you're looking for one of the more portable roll-up Bunton or Solio type things (but those'll take a long time to charge a computer).

What Bug said. It wasn't that wet really though. I did half of the first pitch of Snow White. Anyone know what the thin seam above the bolt goes clean at? Probably not that bad, but looked like too many cam hooks in a row over that ledge for my pansy ass today. At least we were outside! Nice to meet you in person Keith!

I wasn't planning on booze at my party, but that's cause I don't like to drink by myself. If someone shows up and brings something to share I won't complain. ;-) Looks like I'll be on the Lower Town wall somewhere (snow white?). If we're talkin party though, how about someplace with more room than the top of Godzilla. The ledges part way up town crier would work well.

Hehe, probably in Yosemite or Alaska or Mexico. I seem to only end up solo aiding at Index in the winter. Summer's time to put your hands in the cracks instead! ;-)

No, I don't want to belay your ass for two hours in the rain, but how much fun would it be if we were solo aiding close enough to share some tunes and bitch to each other about how crappy our gear is! I just want to get some practice (I've soloed one grade V but am still slow). If twigg responds I may be going to Mt. Erie, but if someone is psyched for solo aid I'm up for that too. I just have trouble self motivating if the weather is crappy and I always go home early. So come out and we'll cheer each other on! - Stewart

Check your PMs!

I like the tick note. My partner got a nice one on his chest last weekend at Erie. Who'da thunk in January?

I always figured it was just another way for Petzl to add an extra product to their line without actually having to make anything different. I can't imagine they'd be any better than a picket and probably worse given the smaller slicker profile. For hard snow I'm sure they work as well as anything else though. I have no input on using them in the Alps, although you do have a good point that there aren't any European picket makers as far as I know (a couple companies still make flukes I think).

Yeah, definitely stay out of the Olympics, nothing to see there. Nothing to see. If you do happen to wander out that way, maybe to visit the ocean beach and then hike above treeline in the same day, I'd suggest the Bailey Range for some good easy peak bagging options, or a South to North or North to South hike through Low Divide, or make a nice loop with the skyline trail. Lots of good loop options in your distance range. Hiking in the Dungeness can also make for some good loops. Lost valley is a great place with many ways to get in and out and not so many people as well.

It only ads like 3 miles of snowy road walking, not that bad if you are doing it in 2 days. Sounds like a perfectly reasonable climb for that(approach on day 1, climb and pack out on day 2). I've been up that road in winter to Colchuck a few times.

I think the nood solo record is the real test here. C'mon and really hang it out there!

Not unless you would call MountainMatt a lady. He'd be a big burly lady. Hehehe, I probably saw thr couple you are thinking of though. We were at Madrone for a while and then at the Orange Wall and slab. Maybe we walked by you on the way out a little after three?

Nice guys, that looks like fun. Saturday at Mt. Erie was nice in the sun too! When are we gonna get together and climb some more obscure Olympics rock?

OMG, is that a spoof? How can that possibly draw on for two hours?

Mine came from the free bin at the used marine supply store down the street. Once in a while they have seats used by actual bosuns in there for less than $60. Not much different really.

Good flick, I liked it when it was here last year with SIFF. One of the better climbing films of late.

Thanks Vladimir! That was great to read, it's so hard to find information on that region in English. I would love to see some photos of some of these peaks with the various route lines drawn in! For anyone interested, I've put a few scenic pictures online from my 2004 trip to the Karasu branch of the valley here: http://picasaweb.google.com/matthiesen/Kyrgyzstan2004# Photos are mostly by Ken Zemach since he had the only digital camera and I still haven't scanned my photos. Someday I'll do a slideshow. I would love to get back in there since we had bad weather and only managed two climbs on the shorter Yellow Wall (Zholtaya Stena), which is also the wall Tommy and Beth were kidnapped from in 2000. Anyone interested?

My trusty (and only) boots need help! I've got a pair of Dyanfit TLT 700s that I've enjoyed for the past couple years and the walk/ski mode plastic lever on one of them broke. Apparently parts for this are long unavailable. Does anyone have an old pair (or single) one of these boots (or maybe similar vintage Dynafit) sitting around in their garage? I hate to throw away boots for a broken piece of plastic, and I also don't have the budget for a brand new pair. Failing finding the part, anyone have a good deal on a pair of 29.5 or 29 (mondo) Dynafit compatible boots? Thanks! Stewart - 360-301-2585

I was in the Cascadia Inn in Skykomish for a burger a week or so ago and there was a sign on the message board for a regular bus to Monroe with stops along the way. Maybe call them and find out who runs that?

Thanks for some extra stoke and sharing your little adventure!