OlympicMtnBoy

Trip: The Mole - North Face Date: 6/5/2010 Trip Report: James put out a call for partners for the weekend and I saw my opportunity to convince someone to undertake the 'schwack up to the Mole. We met up in town and were off a bit after 10:00 on the nice trail up to Yellow Jacket Tower. Following the description in Beckey and the new Kramer guides we left the trail just below Yellow Jacket and made a rising traverse into Hook Creek. We probably stayed a bit too high and had some funky slabs, but the route wasn't too bad for the most part. Once we crossed the creek we made good use of the elevated highways nature has installed (trees) and it got a little easier. Eventually we hit the snow which was mostly crappy but quicker in the old consolidated avalanche debris. It took us probably 4.5 hours to get to the upper basin below the Hook Creek/Rat Creek group but we spent another good hour or more looking for a tent site. We had both brought lighter sleeping bags and didn't feel like stomping forever in the slushy snow to get a wet platform, so we searched high and far for a melted out spot before finally settling on "tick ledge" about 30 feet off the snow. It was only a tad wider than our tent, but at least it was dry (and full of ticks as we would later discover). - The Mole is just above Jame's head with the flatter top, the North Face is facing us. It was now quite a bit later than we had planned, but given the longer days and the questionable weather forecast for Sunday we decided to make it a sunset climb and racked up on our ledge. The snow was steep but good for step kicking now and we made better time to the base of the North Face. - The Shrew from the base of the Mole. The diagonal moss filled cracks splitting the face were obvious. I took the first lead, starting from the snow and up to where the cracks split left and right. Kramer makes it sound like you should keep right while the original route splits left. I tried the right option and was soon faces with fist cracks filled to the brim with moss, standing on crumbly wet moss, and no clear evidence that anyone else had been that way for some time. I didn't feel like excavating that much stuff so I downclimbed 20 feet and took the left route which soon revealed some cleaner cracks amidst the moss and some fun 5.7 climbing. A long pitch led to a nice ledge with some bushes and slings where I stopped and brought James up. From there he took over the lead for a second longer but easier pitch (60+ meters) that led to the summit. I followed quickly as we watched the sun sinking. The views from the top were well worth the effort, especially with the evening light! After photos and snacks there was only one obvious rap route so we took it making three single rope rappels into the gully on the south east side. From there it was some quick plunge stepping and then an awesome glissade all the way back to camp. We made it just before we needed headlamps. Enjoying the single beer I brought and our dinner we crawled into bed dreaming of the Shrew for the next day. These dreams were dashed by the sound of rain sometime in the morning. We stuck our heads out and decided to go back to bed hoping it would stop. We watched the ticks crawl on the outside of our tent and contemplated new ways to kill them. Four hours later or so the cloud finally sank low enough that it stopped raining on us so we packed up and left our tiny ledge. The hike out was drier than we had psyched ourselves up for, but not any shorter. We ran into Jim Donini and Kevin Rose at the Hook Creek Boulder right before the car. Even the old schoolers were bouldering that day! Overall a really fun climb, although it would have been much nicer to had had a second day up there since we had the gear. The approach wasn't bad, but also not great. I'd like to check out the other option via Toketie next time. Go get at er, alpine season is here (if it ever dries out again)! Gear Notes: Brought a bigger rack than needed, but the climb took lots of 0.5-3 camalots with a few options for larger nuts. Not much need for small gear. If you take the right hand option you may need to build a gear belay, but going left gets you nice trees. Approach Notes: Cross the bridge, hike up to Yellow Jacket Tower, head right on a level or slightly rising traverse, cross Hook Creek and head up hill. Keep heading uphill. Head up hill some more. You'll still be able to see the road.

We went up Aasgard on Friday evening. There were frequent sluffs caused by rockfall off Dragontail and surrounding peaks, but it was ok except for crossing a few chutes. Some aspects were slushy up to mid calf level. In the upper Enchantments it got cold enough to form a crust you could almost walk on, but that went away shortly after the sun hit and we were glad to have snowshoes. In the lower Enchantment it was a bit better with snowshoes optional and the snow mostly disappeared below the Snow Lakes. I should have had my firn gliders up there!

Way to get after it despite the obstacles Josh! As long as you keep learning from your trips you'll be a hell of a mountaineer someday!

I assume marking that you've solo'ed but not marking that you solo'ed "with a solo permit" or "without a solo permit" means that you solo'ed but had a group permit (simul-solo). This may apply to some group ski outings as well. Hopefully that was your intent or I've f'ed things up for you.

I assume marking that you've solo'ed but not marking that you solo'ed "with a solo permit" or "without a solo permit" means that you solo'ed but had a group permit (simul-solo). This may apply to some group ski outings as well. Hopefully that was your intent or I've f'ed things up for you.

Fortunately when you solo it you get to jug back up cleaning your gear so never hang that far out. My haul bag sure looked tiny out there by itself though.

Nice trip Josh, I like all the pics interspersed with your report.

Nice trip, sounds like fun!

Hehe, I got turned around once up there too in the summer when I missed an omitted turn of the scramble trail in the Olympics guidebook which was camouflaged by tree branches. I did some exciting ~5.2 variant up a series of gullies left of the main route. Nice job getting to the top anyways!

Thanks Dave, nice TR! I still need to get out there!

I'm not sure if it was exactly THAT ice chimney since this was a few years ago now and it's probably changed, but it sounds similar. I think I went up near the rock on the ridge in your second picture where the ice cap is a little thinner. There was a steeper move or two under an overhang onto a step and then up a chimney type feature for 30-40 feet, then we were through. I think I only placed like 3 screws. Conditions vary quite a bit between a hot July 4th and a cloudy mid-may. :-) Looks like fun either way though!

I recall going up the ridge to the ice cap and finding a weakness to the climbers right in a sort of chimney type feature in the ice. From the single pitch of steeper ice it was walking up and then left towards the summit. Of course that was early July and things were pretty soft and wet all around.

I think I opened my eyes that day, deeming it a suitable announcement of my arrival on this planet. ;-)

What SWH said, but make sure you have the newest version of the Olympics guidebook, the old one doesn't have any info on those areas.

It's the military version of the wild things half bag, I really don't think there is any difference except this one is green instead of orange, and $60 instead of $200. I got one of these a bit ago and it does make a nice good weather sleep system and you aren't as worried about dew or dirt as you would be with an ultralight down bag.

Sorry I missed this year, had circus class that night. :-) Hope a good time was had by all! I expect to see drunken photos soon!

We did DHLA two weeks ago and it wasn't too bad. Pitch 1 was slimy but it usually is, and pitch 4 (pitch 1 of LA) was also a little wet and crappy for the start. I can't imagine it'll be any worse this weekend than it was then, this week has been drier and it's sunny today.

Wonder if it also could have been one of those "well, the weather sucks, we'll have to bail on the climb, let's just hike up to Muir for some exercise while we're here". I'm guilty of that thinking myself on occasion of bad weather, choosing to go out anyways on a "low risk" training hike when weather cancels the main plan. speculating in a vacuum>

ding ding ding ding ding, WE HAVE A WINNER BOYZ! Awesome, do I win a prize? I love seeing old gear too. I actually climbed on some scary looking nail like things pounded into the ice in Russia once.

Ice piton would be my guess. Pre-ice screw/snarg/warthog pro.

Managed to lose my favorite knife, a tiny red Spyderco Ladybug that has been riding on a biner on my harness for the last ten years or so. It was attached with a bit of purple cord. I think it probably came off the biner or the old cord broke on the scramble down from the Tree Route on Lower Eight Mile (came down climbers left side), or on the route (upper wide crack?), but it could have disappeared the day before near Retardant Rock or Special Spot. It's got some sentimental value and I'd like to get it back if anyone comes across it. There's beer in it for the finder. - Stewart 360-301-2585

Nice job, it was a great day out there! I was one of the party of four that walked under you guys. We warmed up on the 5.7 and 5.8 on Retardant Rock and then his up the Special Spot. The Javelin, Opening Ceremonies, and Semi-final were all classic and super fun!

A few updates: Martin was kind enough to take a reporter up to the top of the rock and there was a decent article in the Peninsula Daily News: http://www.peninsuladailynews.com/article/20100418/NEWS/304189991 Also here is an excerpt on the property from the WA Parks and Recreation Commission meeting on March 11th: "The Tribe indicates that public uses would not include climbing on the Rock in order to respect the sacred nature of the property. Trails leading to the top on the eastern side would be removed. Trails crossing north-south through the property would be open to pedestrian uses." "The existence of rock climbing on the site fails to respect the cultural significance of the site. Ending the practice could require a variety of management measures, potentially including: signage, fencing, removing pitons currently located on the Rock, educating users and issuing citations to parties who ignore rules" ------------ Full text: Tamanowas Rock Tamanowas Rock (the Rock) is a unique geological formation; its age, estimated at 43 million years, is far older than the surrounding area. Native American beliefs are that this is the site where people gathered during a flood that covered the earth. When the waters receded the property became a sacred site to the tribes. Members of local tribes still consider the site as sacred. In 1976 the site was added to the Washington Heritage Register due to its archaeological attributes. Notwithstanding its cultural significance and private ownership, the Rock is a popular destination for local rock climbers. The western side offers challenging routes and over time climbers have placed pitons in the rock for security. Adjoining Property The CAMP long-term boundary for Anderson Lake State Park includes three parcels abutting the eastern edge of the park. From south to north on the attached map, they are known as the Nicholson Short Plat (owned by the Jamestown S’Klallam Tribe (Tribe)), the Jamestown S’Klallam Tribe Conservation property (owned by the Tribe) and the Tamanowas Rock property (recently sold by Mr. Heidgerken to an entity of the Jefferson Land Trust). Some of the trails that originate in Anderson Lake State Park continue as unofficial social trails onto the adjoining private property. Trails in the park are open to cyclists and equestrian riders in addition to pedestrians. Nicholson Short Plat In 2005, the Jamestown S’Klallam Tribe, with assistance from the community, purchased the Nicholson property. The Tribe feared that the previous owner intended to sub-divide and sell the property. The proposed development threatened the site with nearby development, a road to the proximity of Tamanous Rock and excessive visitation to the Rock. The Nicholson property consists of 66 acres; a 2005 appraisal put the value of the site at $390,000, but a more recent appraisal has set the value at $275,000. It is currently for sale by the Tribe, but only to a party which would be willing to place a conservation easement limiting its development. Jamestown S’Klallam Conservation Property At the time the Tribe purchased the Nicholson Short Plat, it also purchased an adjoining 20 acre parcel now known as the Jamestown S’Klallam Conservation property. In 2006, the Tribe applied for and received a grant of approximately $67,000 to fund a conservation easement it granted to the Jefferson Land Trust on this property. Jefferson Land Trust (Heidgerken) Property Mr. Heidgerken previously owned the 62 acre property that includes Tamanowas Rock. He recently offered the property for sale, with an initial asking price of $1.2 million. The Tribe and Jefferson Land Trust (JLT) approached State Parks about an interest in the acquisition, given the park’s long-term boundary and previous interest in the property (in the late 1990’s Parks approached Mr. Heidgerken but was unable to reach an agreement on the price). After an appraisal identified the value of the property as $600,000, Mr. Heidgerken accepted that price. At that time the JLT and Tribe obtained a loan from the Bullitt Foundation to acquire the land. The terms of the loan from the Bullitt Foundation require repayment within two years. A real estate subsidiary of the JLT now owns the property and the Tribe has a two-year option to purchase it from the JLT. Future Ownership, Management Options and Issues The Jamestown S'Klallam Tribe made an initial proposal in which it would exercise its option to acquire the JLT (former Heidgerken) property from the Jefferson Land Trust entity within two years of the initial acquisition date. One proposal is that the existing 20 acre Jamestown S'Klallam Tribe Conservation Property and all or some part of the JLT property would be combined into a 40-80 acre sanctuary. This property might eventually be put into an application to the Bureau of Indian Affairs to be placed into federal trust status. The balance of the JLT property and the Nicholson property are then proposed to become part of Anderson Lake State Park pending Commission approval and available acquisition funding. Were the property to not become part of Anderson Lake State Park it would remain in JLT or Tribal ownership. Management of the 40-80 acre Tamanowas Rock Sanctuary would occur via a consortium. An interlocal agreement, between the tribes and other entities is proposed to be developed to cover mutual management issues and achieve cost savings where possible. The Tribe indicates that public uses would not include climbing on the Rock in order to respect the sacred nature of the property. Trails leading to the top on the eastern side would be removed. Trails crossing north-south through the property would be open to pedestrian uses. The management plan proposed by the Tribe for the states: * Allowed Uses: access for quiet use and enjoyment; scientific and educational purposes; restoration of wetlands and other habitat values; sacred ceremonies; maintenance of simple, dirt trails according to a trail plan; general public access according to a public access plan; and sustainable harvesting of non-timber forest products, including bark from living cedar trees. * Prohibited Uses: subdivision of land; hunting; horseback riding and pets; building or development; mining and removal of soil, peat, rock and gravel; use of herbicides and pesticides, except when subject to a restoration plan; introduction of non-native plants, lawns and animal species; damming, diking, dredging, manipulation of water courses except when subject to a restoration plan; harvest of all standing timber (live and snag) except to enhance wildlife habitat and forest health, control fires, remove hazard trees, and then subject to a management plan; dumping and storage of waste, materials and equipment; storage of motorized vehicles; agriculture and livestock grazing; campgrounds, sports activities, motorized vehicles; discharge of firearms; and access roads through the property. Managing activities within the Rock area: The existence of rock climbing on the site fails to respect the cultural significance of the site. Ending the practice could require a variety of management measures, potentially including: signage, fencing, removing pitons currently located on the Rock, educating users and issuing citations to parties who ignore rules. If JLT or the Tribe owned the site, the enforcement actions, when education and signage fails would be the responsibility of the Country Sheriff. If owned by State Parks, parks staff would accept responsibility to develop and enforce regulations. This may not be effective as the park has no on-site staffing. POLICY QUESTIONS FOR CONSIDERATION: 1. Does State Parks want to own or manage any portion of the property east of the current park boundary? 2. Is there a State Parks interest in acquiring some or all of the Nicholson Short Plat? 3. Should staff explore transferring any part of its ownership or management of Anderson Lake State Park to Jefferson County, JLT, or the Jamestown S’Klallam? Author/Contact(s): Bill Koss, Manager, Planning and Research bill.koss@parks.wa.gov 360-902-8629

They were also like $35 bucks each. Might still be according to the ad.

I used a pair of Vasque Ice 9000s when I was down in the CB and was quite happy with them. Temps down there aren't generally that bad and I saw a few folks with single insulated boots like Nepal Extremes. I think it's mostly a matter of keeping moving when it's cold at night, if things go smoothly you'll be warm enough. If you have to stop due to a party above you or something, it's nice to have some extra insulation. I think I would have been fine if I took my Nepals, but the double boots were nice and I had some liners to sleep with my toes tucked in as well. There are several synthetic double boots now that climb way better than your old plastics, might be worth investing in especially if you plan on stuff in Alaska or high winter climbs in the NW.