OlympicMtnBoy

Way to get after it despite the obstacles Josh! As long as you keep learning from your trips you'll be a hell of a mountaineer someday!

I assume marking that you've solo'ed but not marking that you solo'ed "with a solo permit" or "without a solo permit" means that you solo'ed but had a group permit (simul-solo). This may apply to some group ski outings as well. Hopefully that was your intent or I've f'ed things up for you.

I assume marking that you've solo'ed but not marking that you solo'ed "with a solo permit" or "without a solo permit" means that you solo'ed but had a group permit (simul-solo). This may apply to some group ski outings as well. Hopefully that was your intent or I've f'ed things up for you.

Fortunately when you solo it you get to jug back up cleaning your gear so never hang that far out. My haul bag sure looked tiny out there by itself though.

Nice trip Josh, I like all the pics interspersed with your report.

Nice trip, sounds like fun!

Hehe, I got turned around once up there too in the summer when I missed an omitted turn of the scramble trail in the Olympics guidebook which was camouflaged by tree branches. I did some exciting ~5.2 variant up a series of gullies left of the main route. Nice job getting to the top anyways!

Thanks Dave, nice TR! I still need to get out there!

I'm not sure if it was exactly THAT ice chimney since this was a few years ago now and it's probably changed, but it sounds similar. I think I went up near the rock on the ridge in your second picture where the ice cap is a little thinner. There was a steeper move or two under an overhang onto a step and then up a chimney type feature for 30-40 feet, then we were through. I think I only placed like 3 screws. Conditions vary quite a bit between a hot July 4th and a cloudy mid-may. :-) Looks like fun either way though!

I recall going up the ridge to the ice cap and finding a weakness to the climbers right in a sort of chimney type feature in the ice. From the single pitch of steeper ice it was walking up and then left towards the summit. Of course that was early July and things were pretty soft and wet all around.

I think I opened my eyes that day, deeming it a suitable announcement of my arrival on this planet. ;-)

What SWH said, but make sure you have the newest version of the Olympics guidebook, the old one doesn't have any info on those areas.

It's the military version of the wild things half bag, I really don't think there is any difference except this one is green instead of orange, and $60 instead of $200. I got one of these a bit ago and it does make a nice good weather sleep system and you aren't as worried about dew or dirt as you would be with an ultralight down bag.

Sorry I missed this year, had circus class that night. :-) Hope a good time was had by all! I expect to see drunken photos soon!

We did DHLA two weeks ago and it wasn't too bad. Pitch 1 was slimy but it usually is, and pitch 4 (pitch 1 of LA) was also a little wet and crappy for the start. I can't imagine it'll be any worse this weekend than it was then, this week has been drier and it's sunny today.

Wonder if it also could have been one of those "well, the weather sucks, we'll have to bail on the climb, let's just hike up to Muir for some exercise while we're here". I'm guilty of that thinking myself on occasion of bad weather, choosing to go out anyways on a "low risk" training hike when weather cancels the main plan. speculating in a vacuum>

ding ding ding ding ding, WE HAVE A WINNER BOYZ! Awesome, do I win a prize? I love seeing old gear too. I actually climbed on some scary looking nail like things pounded into the ice in Russia once.

Ice piton would be my guess. Pre-ice screw/snarg/warthog pro.

Managed to lose my favorite knife, a tiny red Spyderco Ladybug that has been riding on a biner on my harness for the last ten years or so. It was attached with a bit of purple cord. I think it probably came off the biner or the old cord broke on the scramble down from the Tree Route on Lower Eight Mile (came down climbers left side), or on the route (upper wide crack?), but it could have disappeared the day before near Retardant Rock or Special Spot. It's got some sentimental value and I'd like to get it back if anyone comes across it. There's beer in it for the finder. - Stewart 360-301-2585

Nice job, it was a great day out there! I was one of the party of four that walked under you guys. We warmed up on the 5.7 and 5.8 on Retardant Rock and then his up the Special Spot. The Javelin, Opening Ceremonies, and Semi-final were all classic and super fun!

A few updates: Martin was kind enough to take a reporter up to the top of the rock and there was a decent article in the Peninsula Daily News: http://www.peninsuladailynews.com/article/20100418/NEWS/304189991 Also here is an excerpt on the property from the WA Parks and Recreation Commission meeting on March 11th: "The Tribe indicates that public uses would not include climbing on the Rock in order to respect the sacred nature of the property. Trails leading to the top on the eastern side would be removed. Trails crossing north-south through the property would be open to pedestrian uses." "The existence of rock climbing on the site fails to respect the cultural significance of the site. Ending the practice could require a variety of management measures, potentially including: signage, fencing, removing pitons currently located on the Rock, educating users and issuing citations to parties who ignore rules" ------------ Full text: Tamanowas Rock Tamanowas Rock (the Rock) is a unique geological formation; its age, estimated at 43 million years, is far older than the surrounding area. Native American beliefs are that this is the site where people gathered during a flood that covered the earth. When the waters receded the property became a sacred site to the tribes. Members of local tribes still consider the site as sacred. In 1976 the site was added to the Washington Heritage Register due to its archaeological attributes. Notwithstanding its cultural significance and private ownership, the Rock is a popular destination for local rock climbers. The western side offers challenging routes and over time climbers have placed pitons in the rock for security. Adjoining Property The CAMP long-term boundary for Anderson Lake State Park includes three parcels abutting the eastern edge of the park. From south to north on the attached map, they are known as the Nicholson Short Plat (owned by the Jamestown S’Klallam Tribe (Tribe)), the Jamestown S’Klallam Tribe Conservation property (owned by the Tribe) and the Tamanowas Rock property (recently sold by Mr. Heidgerken to an entity of the Jefferson Land Trust). Some of the trails that originate in Anderson Lake State Park continue as unofficial social trails onto the adjoining private property. Trails in the park are open to cyclists and equestrian riders in addition to pedestrians. Nicholson Short Plat In 2005, the Jamestown S’Klallam Tribe, with assistance from the community, purchased the Nicholson property. The Tribe feared that the previous owner intended to sub-divide and sell the property. The proposed development threatened the site with nearby development, a road to the proximity of Tamanous Rock and excessive visitation to the Rock. The Nicholson property consists of 66 acres; a 2005 appraisal put the value of the site at $390,000, but a more recent appraisal has set the value at $275,000. It is currently for sale by the Tribe, but only to a party which would be willing to place a conservation easement limiting its development. Jamestown S’Klallam Conservation Property At the time the Tribe purchased the Nicholson Short Plat, it also purchased an adjoining 20 acre parcel now known as the Jamestown S’Klallam Conservation property. In 2006, the Tribe applied for and received a grant of approximately $67,000 to fund a conservation easement it granted to the Jefferson Land Trust on this property. Jefferson Land Trust (Heidgerken) Property Mr. Heidgerken previously owned the 62 acre property that includes Tamanowas Rock. He recently offered the property for sale, with an initial asking price of $1.2 million. The Tribe and Jefferson Land Trust (JLT) approached State Parks about an interest in the acquisition, given the park’s long-term boundary and previous interest in the property (in the late 1990’s Parks approached Mr. Heidgerken but was unable to reach an agreement on the price). After an appraisal identified the value of the property as $600,000, Mr. Heidgerken accepted that price. At that time the JLT and Tribe obtained a loan from the Bullitt Foundation to acquire the land. The terms of the loan from the Bullitt Foundation require repayment within two years. A real estate subsidiary of the JLT now owns the property and the Tribe has a two-year option to purchase it from the JLT. Future Ownership, Management Options and Issues The Jamestown S'Klallam Tribe made an initial proposal in which it would exercise its option to acquire the JLT (former Heidgerken) property from the Jefferson Land Trust entity within two years of the initial acquisition date. One proposal is that the existing 20 acre Jamestown S'Klallam Tribe Conservation Property and all or some part of the JLT property would be combined into a 40-80 acre sanctuary. This property might eventually be put into an application to the Bureau of Indian Affairs to be placed into federal trust status. The balance of the JLT property and the Nicholson property are then proposed to become part of Anderson Lake State Park pending Commission approval and available acquisition funding. Were the property to not become part of Anderson Lake State Park it would remain in JLT or Tribal ownership. Management of the 40-80 acre Tamanowas Rock Sanctuary would occur via a consortium. An interlocal agreement, between the tribes and other entities is proposed to be developed to cover mutual management issues and achieve cost savings where possible. The Tribe indicates that public uses would not include climbing on the Rock in order to respect the sacred nature of the property. Trails leading to the top on the eastern side would be removed. Trails crossing north-south through the property would be open to pedestrian uses. The management plan proposed by the Tribe for the states: * Allowed Uses: access for quiet use and enjoyment; scientific and educational purposes; restoration of wetlands and other habitat values; sacred ceremonies; maintenance of simple, dirt trails according to a trail plan; general public access according to a public access plan; and sustainable harvesting of non-timber forest products, including bark from living cedar trees. * Prohibited Uses: subdivision of land; hunting; horseback riding and pets; building or development; mining and removal of soil, peat, rock and gravel; use of herbicides and pesticides, except when subject to a restoration plan; introduction of non-native plants, lawns and animal species; damming, diking, dredging, manipulation of water courses except when subject to a restoration plan; harvest of all standing timber (live and snag) except to enhance wildlife habitat and forest health, control fires, remove hazard trees, and then subject to a management plan; dumping and storage of waste, materials and equipment; storage of motorized vehicles; agriculture and livestock grazing; campgrounds, sports activities, motorized vehicles; discharge of firearms; and access roads through the property. Managing activities within the Rock area: The existence of rock climbing on the site fails to respect the cultural significance of the site. Ending the practice could require a variety of management measures, potentially including: signage, fencing, removing pitons currently located on the Rock, educating users and issuing citations to parties who ignore rules. If JLT or the Tribe owned the site, the enforcement actions, when education and signage fails would be the responsibility of the Country Sheriff. If owned by State Parks, parks staff would accept responsibility to develop and enforce regulations. This may not be effective as the park has no on-site staffing. POLICY QUESTIONS FOR CONSIDERATION: 1. Does State Parks want to own or manage any portion of the property east of the current park boundary? 2. Is there a State Parks interest in acquiring some or all of the Nicholson Short Plat? 3. Should staff explore transferring any part of its ownership or management of Anderson Lake State Park to Jefferson County, JLT, or the Jamestown S’Klallam? Author/Contact(s): Bill Koss, Manager, Planning and Research bill.koss@parks.wa.gov 360-902-8629

They were also like $35 bucks each. Might still be according to the ad.

I used a pair of Vasque Ice 9000s when I was down in the CB and was quite happy with them. Temps down there aren't generally that bad and I saw a few folks with single insulated boots like Nepal Extremes. I think it's mostly a matter of keeping moving when it's cold at night, if things go smoothly you'll be warm enough. If you have to stop due to a party above you or something, it's nice to have some extra insulation. I think I would have been fine if I took my Nepals, but the double boots were nice and I had some liners to sleep with my toes tucked in as well. There are several synthetic double boots now that climb way better than your old plastics, might be worth investing in especially if you plan on stuff in Alaska or high winter climbs in the NW.

Bluewater 5.5 mm spectra cord is over 14 KN. 5 mil non-spectra seems awful weenie, especially if you deduct ~30% for strength lost at your knots. I'd go with 7mm if you don't want to use spectra.

FYI, the Peninsula Daily News is looking to do a story this Sunday and talk about the climbing and some of the issues around the Rock. They are looking for someone to give a quick tour of the rock and the climbing there. They might take some pictures too. Unfortunately I just came back to Seattle after several days out there. Anyone available to give a tour? It’s a great opportunity to get our voices heard as a user group and put a positive face on climbers as respectful and invested in protection, preservation, and continued use of the rock by all the groups who feel connected with it. Let me know if you are available some time in the next couple days and I'll put you in touch. - Stewart 360-301-2585