OlympicMtnBoy
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Chimacum Rock (aka Tamanous Rock or Big Rock)
OlympicMtnBoy replied to OlympicMtnBoy's topic in Access Issues
Thanks, I drove by that cliff on Eaglemount. It might be worth a route or two if we loose Tamanous Rock, although not of the cool multipitch variety we currently have. I didn't have time to get out of the car though. Anyone have any idea who owns it? No new work from the Jefferson Land Trust. I've offered some easement language from the Access Fund and my professional grant writing skills to assist the State Park in raising funds. It sounds like it's too early for them, or not a priority, probably some of both. Additional local input to them would be great. -
[TR] Vantage - Torre de Plumas 5.7 R A0 2/21/2010
OlympicMtnBoy replied to mountainmatt's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
I don't believe you guys would even consider this attempt (didn't Fred do it in like 1892 already anyways). Look at all those poor souls below you who have obviously already reserved that wall and you are up there knocking rocks down on them and even threatening them with loose beer cans. And what's with the "A0", you ought to leave these climbs for the future generations who actually have the skills to free climb things and know how to jump a silly little gap. Even that kid Marc can jump it and he's just a white guy from Canada. There are people working so hard to get up those awesome bolted lines who have been training for years and probably come all the way from Seattle and Portland and there you are screwing up their trips of a lifetime with your little "traverse". You should just edit this post before the climbing authorities get word and ban you from Vantage. What are you gonna do when you can't reserve the Sunshine Wall anymore eh? - OMB . . . maybe I'm just jealous I couldn't stick around and do it with you . . . -
[TR] Mount Olympus - Blue Glacier 2/17/2010
OlympicMtnBoy replied to Crazy_Jeff's topic in Olympic Peninsula
Nice trip, way to get out solo up there! -
Black Rock Hats now available at TiGoat!
OlympicMtnBoy replied to BlackRock's topic in Local Gear Shops
I have one and I also love it. It does compress under a helmet, but puffs up anywhere not covered by a strap. I also like that it doesn't make for a hard ball when I take it off an stuff it in my pocket, it compresses and basically disappears (I've lost it that way at home a few times). It's definitely my favorite hat. Yep, it's pretty damn pricey (he just raised the price from his intro offer of the past year), but so is any other sort of hand made 900 fp down gear. Nunatak makes some nice $175 down booties if you are so inclined as well. There is a niche for everything. It sounds like he's selling enough to keep busy. Wouldn't be high on my list if just getting started and I just needed a hat, but I do love it. Cheers! - OMB -
[TR] Mt. Baker - Boulder-Park Cleaver 2/8/2010
OlympicMtnBoy replied to Crazy_Jeff's topic in North Cascades
Nice job, looks like a great day out even if the snow wasn't ideal! -
Repair shop for GORE-TEX leather climbing boots
OlympicMtnBoy replied to YocumRidge's topic in The Gear Critic
BTW, if you just have some rand peeling off you can reglue it yourself with some barge cement and it works pretty well. -
Repair shop for GORE-TEX leather climbing boots
OlympicMtnBoy replied to YocumRidge's topic in The Gear Critic
Try Dave Page in Seattle. www.davepagecobbler.com -
Chimacum Rock (aka Tamanous Rock or Big Rock)
OlympicMtnBoy replied to OlympicMtnBoy's topic in Access Issues
Thanks John. I'm trying to be optimistic and think of it as a potential opportunity to secure climbing access for the long term. I know that it may be a losing battle, but it's worth at least getting our voices heard. Perhaps something could be worked out with a new anchor ban and some clean up? Has anyone though of painting some of the shiny hangers to make them blend in more. I know some folks just think it's an eyesore to see a line of shiny bolts in the overhanging amphitheater area when they have drum circles around the fire pit. Out of sight out of mind maybe, or at least lower on the priority list to pull out? Anyone want to help? Sherri, I'm up for checking things out if anyone is interested. I haven't driven by Eaglemount for a while, but I'm out in PT once a month (next week actually). I'll try to drive by there. -
Calling all Chimacum/Port Townsend rock climbers! Changes are coming to Tamanous Rock! Yes, it's a choss pile, but I know a few folks still climb there and that it's the only rock anywhere near Port Townsend or Chimacum so I wanted to share this pending access issue in case any of you would like to be involved. This last December the land surrounding and including the rock was purchased by the Jefferson Land Trust in coordination with the Jamestown S'klallam Tribe, and Anderson Lake State Park (managed by Ft. Flagler). The land, previously owned by George Heidigerken, was a development investment and climbing/hiking/dirk biking, etc was at least passively allowed. I have been visiting the rock for at least 20 years. With this recent purchase the land will now be transferred from the Jefferson Land Trust in a couple of years when the loan is paid off to either the Tribe (most likely) or the State Park. The Tribe views this as a sacred/spiritual site and appears to be likely to close access to the rock itself and remove permanent anchors. The State Park has no money and no experience managing climbing issues either. I have been in contact with Owen Fairbank and Sarah Spaeth at the Jefferson Land Trust who I know through work. Few decisions have been made as to the final disposition of the land, wording of a conservation easement should the land remain private, management plans, etc, so now is the time to get constructively involved. I now live in Seattle and only climb at the Rock a few times a year. I would like to know if there is interest from others in trying to maintain access, and if anyone is more local who might be ale to attend relevant meetings to represent climbers, etc. I have many fond memories of learning to climb there and would like to continue to do so. I'm guessing there are more of us out there who feel the same? Background for those of you who have no idea what I'm talking about: Tamanous Rock is located off of Anderson Lake Rd. near the SKP trailer park. There are about 10 bolted routes, half of which are two pitches, ranging from 5.6 to a few overhanging 5.11-12? routes. There are a couple of sketchy trad/aid lines as well. There is also a cable route up the backside used by all sorts of folks to reach the top. You can post up here or contact me at stewartmatthiesen (at) hotmail. or 360-379-9421. I'll try to post this notice eleswhere and would appreciate any help from anyone involved with WCC or the Access Fund as well.
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Nothing to add other than I've been up there in Feb before because I could have sworn there was a freeze thaw cycle going on in the weather forecast. Wallowing in deep powder, great for skiing, not for climbing. It's north facing, so it really needs to actually get pretty warm up there during the day a bit for things to consolidate more.
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[TR] McClellan Butte - North Face 1/31/2010
OlympicMtnBoy replied to Josh Lewis's topic in Alpine Lakes
Sounds like a fun day in the mountains! Thanks for the TR and pics! -
Check out the sellout.woot.com page (today only). No idea if that's good or what you want, but I think it's a good price. Sunsei 18 Watt Solar Panel and Controller $99.99 * + $5.00 shipping Apologies if you're looking for one of the more portable roll-up Bunton or Solio type things (but those'll take a long time to charge a computer).
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Solo Aid Party at Index Saturday?
OlympicMtnBoy replied to OlympicMtnBoy's topic in Climbing Partners
What Bug said. It wasn't that wet really though. I did half of the first pitch of Snow White. Anyone know what the thin seam above the bolt goes clean at? Probably not that bad, but looked like too many cam hooks in a row over that ledge for my pansy ass today. At least we were outside! Nice to meet you in person Keith! -
Solo Aid Party at Index Saturday?
OlympicMtnBoy replied to OlympicMtnBoy's topic in Climbing Partners
I wasn't planning on booze at my party, but that's cause I don't like to drink by myself. If someone shows up and brings something to share I won't complain. ;-) Looks like I'll be on the Lower Town wall somewhere (snow white?). If we're talkin party though, how about someplace with more room than the top of Godzilla. The ledges part way up town crier would work well. -
Solo Aid Party at Index Saturday?
OlympicMtnBoy replied to OlympicMtnBoy's topic in Climbing Partners
Hehe, probably in Yosemite or Alaska or Mexico. I seem to only end up solo aiding at Index in the winter. Summer's time to put your hands in the cracks instead! ;-) -
No, I don't want to belay your ass for two hours in the rain, but how much fun would it be if we were solo aiding close enough to share some tunes and bitch to each other about how crappy our gear is! I just want to get some practice (I've soloed one grade V but am still slow). If twigg responds I may be going to Mt. Erie, but if someone is psyched for solo aid I'm up for that too. I just have trouble self motivating if the weather is crappy and I always go home early. So come out and we'll cheer each other on! - Stewart
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Check your PMs!
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[TR] Mt. Erie - Zig Zag moonlight 1/28/2010
OlympicMtnBoy replied to Wakaranai's topic in North Cascades
I like the tick note. My partner got a nice one on his chest last weekend at Erie. Who'da thunk in January? -
I always figured it was just another way for Petzl to add an extra product to their line without actually having to make anything different. I can't imagine they'd be any better than a picket and probably worse given the smaller slicker profile. For hard snow I'm sure they work as well as anything else though. I have no input on using them in the Alps, although you do have a good point that there aren't any European picket makers as far as I know (a couple companies still make flukes I think).
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Backpacking trip suggestions for NCNP or ONP
OlympicMtnBoy replied to Das Beerd's topic in North Cascades
Yeah, definitely stay out of the Olympics, nothing to see there. Nothing to see. If you do happen to wander out that way, maybe to visit the ocean beach and then hike above treeline in the same day, I'd suggest the Bailey Range for some good easy peak bagging options, or a South to North or North to South hike through Low Divide, or make a nice loop with the skyline trail. Lots of good loop options in your distance range. Hiking in the Dungeness can also make for some good loops. Lost valley is a great place with many ways to get in and out and not so many people as well. -
It only ads like 3 miles of snowy road walking, not that bad if you are doing it in 2 days. Sounds like a perfectly reasonable climb for that(approach on day 1, climb and pack out on day 2). I've been up that road in winter to Colchuck a few times.
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Free solo speed record on the Tooth?
OlympicMtnBoy replied to summitchaserCJB's topic in Alpine Lakes
I think the nood solo record is the real test here. C'mon and really hang it out there! -
OMG, is that a spoof? How can that possibly draw on for two hours?