OlympicMtnBoy

We did DHLA two weeks ago and it wasn't too bad. Pitch 1 was slimy but it usually is, and pitch 4 (pitch 1 of LA) was also a little wet and crappy for the start. I can't imagine it'll be any worse this weekend than it was then, this week has been drier and it's sunny today.

Wonder if it also could have been one of those "well, the weather sucks, we'll have to bail on the climb, let's just hike up to Muir for some exercise while we're here". I'm guilty of that thinking myself on occasion of bad weather, choosing to go out anyways on a "low risk" training hike when weather cancels the main plan. speculating in a vacuum>

ding ding ding ding ding, WE HAVE A WINNER BOYZ! Awesome, do I win a prize? I love seeing old gear too. I actually climbed on some scary looking nail like things pounded into the ice in Russia once.

Ice piton would be my guess. Pre-ice screw/snarg/warthog pro.

Managed to lose my favorite knife, a tiny red Spyderco Ladybug that has been riding on a biner on my harness for the last ten years or so. It was attached with a bit of purple cord. I think it probably came off the biner or the old cord broke on the scramble down from the Tree Route on Lower Eight Mile (came down climbers left side), or on the route (upper wide crack?), but it could have disappeared the day before near Retardant Rock or Special Spot. It's got some sentimental value and I'd like to get it back if anyone comes across it. There's beer in it for the finder. - Stewart 360-301-2585

Nice job, it was a great day out there! I was one of the party of four that walked under you guys. We warmed up on the 5.7 and 5.8 on Retardant Rock and then his up the Special Spot. The Javelin, Opening Ceremonies, and Semi-final were all classic and super fun!

A few updates: Martin was kind enough to take a reporter up to the top of the rock and there was a decent article in the Peninsula Daily News: http://www.peninsuladailynews.com/article/20100418/NEWS/304189991 Also here is an excerpt on the property from the WA Parks and Recreation Commission meeting on March 11th: "The Tribe indicates that public uses would not include climbing on the Rock in order to respect the sacred nature of the property. Trails leading to the top on the eastern side would be removed. Trails crossing north-south through the property would be open to pedestrian uses." "The existence of rock climbing on the site fails to respect the cultural significance of the site. Ending the practice could require a variety of management measures, potentially including: signage, fencing, removing pitons currently located on the Rock, educating users and issuing citations to parties who ignore rules" ------------ Full text: Tamanowas Rock Tamanowas Rock (the Rock) is a unique geological formation; its age, estimated at 43 million years, is far older than the surrounding area. Native American beliefs are that this is the site where people gathered during a flood that covered the earth. When the waters receded the property became a sacred site to the tribes. Members of local tribes still consider the site as sacred. In 1976 the site was added to the Washington Heritage Register due to its archaeological attributes. Notwithstanding its cultural significance and private ownership, the Rock is a popular destination for local rock climbers. The western side offers challenging routes and over time climbers have placed pitons in the rock for security. Adjoining Property The CAMP long-term boundary for Anderson Lake State Park includes three parcels abutting the eastern edge of the park. From south to north on the attached map, they are known as the Nicholson Short Plat (owned by the Jamestown S’Klallam Tribe (Tribe)), the Jamestown S’Klallam Tribe Conservation property (owned by the Tribe) and the Tamanowas Rock property (recently sold by Mr. Heidgerken to an entity of the Jefferson Land Trust). Some of the trails that originate in Anderson Lake State Park continue as unofficial social trails onto the adjoining private property. Trails in the park are open to cyclists and equestrian riders in addition to pedestrians. Nicholson Short Plat In 2005, the Jamestown S’Klallam Tribe, with assistance from the community, purchased the Nicholson property. The Tribe feared that the previous owner intended to sub-divide and sell the property. The proposed development threatened the site with nearby development, a road to the proximity of Tamanous Rock and excessive visitation to the Rock. The Nicholson property consists of 66 acres; a 2005 appraisal put the value of the site at $390,000, but a more recent appraisal has set the value at $275,000. It is currently for sale by the Tribe, but only to a party which would be willing to place a conservation easement limiting its development. Jamestown S’Klallam Conservation Property At the time the Tribe purchased the Nicholson Short Plat, it also purchased an adjoining 20 acre parcel now known as the Jamestown S’Klallam Conservation property. In 2006, the Tribe applied for and received a grant of approximately $67,000 to fund a conservation easement it granted to the Jefferson Land Trust on this property. Jefferson Land Trust (Heidgerken) Property Mr. Heidgerken previously owned the 62 acre property that includes Tamanowas Rock. He recently offered the property for sale, with an initial asking price of $1.2 million. The Tribe and Jefferson Land Trust (JLT) approached State Parks about an interest in the acquisition, given the park’s long-term boundary and previous interest in the property (in the late 1990’s Parks approached Mr. Heidgerken but was unable to reach an agreement on the price). After an appraisal identified the value of the property as $600,000, Mr. Heidgerken accepted that price. At that time the JLT and Tribe obtained a loan from the Bullitt Foundation to acquire the land. The terms of the loan from the Bullitt Foundation require repayment within two years. A real estate subsidiary of the JLT now owns the property and the Tribe has a two-year option to purchase it from the JLT. Future Ownership, Management Options and Issues The Jamestown S'Klallam Tribe made an initial proposal in which it would exercise its option to acquire the JLT (former Heidgerken) property from the Jefferson Land Trust entity within two years of the initial acquisition date. One proposal is that the existing 20 acre Jamestown S'Klallam Tribe Conservation Property and all or some part of the JLT property would be combined into a 40-80 acre sanctuary. This property might eventually be put into an application to the Bureau of Indian Affairs to be placed into federal trust status. The balance of the JLT property and the Nicholson property are then proposed to become part of Anderson Lake State Park pending Commission approval and available acquisition funding. Were the property to not become part of Anderson Lake State Park it would remain in JLT or Tribal ownership. Management of the 40-80 acre Tamanowas Rock Sanctuary would occur via a consortium. An interlocal agreement, between the tribes and other entities is proposed to be developed to cover mutual management issues and achieve cost savings where possible. The Tribe indicates that public uses would not include climbing on the Rock in order to respect the sacred nature of the property. Trails leading to the top on the eastern side would be removed. Trails crossing north-south through the property would be open to pedestrian uses. The management plan proposed by the Tribe for the states: * Allowed Uses: access for quiet use and enjoyment; scientific and educational purposes; restoration of wetlands and other habitat values; sacred ceremonies; maintenance of simple, dirt trails according to a trail plan; general public access according to a public access plan; and sustainable harvesting of non-timber forest products, including bark from living cedar trees. * Prohibited Uses: subdivision of land; hunting; horseback riding and pets; building or development; mining and removal of soil, peat, rock and gravel; use of herbicides and pesticides, except when subject to a restoration plan; introduction of non-native plants, lawns and animal species; damming, diking, dredging, manipulation of water courses except when subject to a restoration plan; harvest of all standing timber (live and snag) except to enhance wildlife habitat and forest health, control fires, remove hazard trees, and then subject to a management plan; dumping and storage of waste, materials and equipment; storage of motorized vehicles; agriculture and livestock grazing; campgrounds, sports activities, motorized vehicles; discharge of firearms; and access roads through the property. Managing activities within the Rock area: The existence of rock climbing on the site fails to respect the cultural significance of the site. Ending the practice could require a variety of management measures, potentially including: signage, fencing, removing pitons currently located on the Rock, educating users and issuing citations to parties who ignore rules. If JLT or the Tribe owned the site, the enforcement actions, when education and signage fails would be the responsibility of the Country Sheriff. If owned by State Parks, parks staff would accept responsibility to develop and enforce regulations. This may not be effective as the park has no on-site staffing. POLICY QUESTIONS FOR CONSIDERATION: 1. Does State Parks want to own or manage any portion of the property east of the current park boundary? 2. Is there a State Parks interest in acquiring some or all of the Nicholson Short Plat? 3. Should staff explore transferring any part of its ownership or management of Anderson Lake State Park to Jefferson County, JLT, or the Jamestown S’Klallam? Author/Contact(s): Bill Koss, Manager, Planning and Research bill.koss@parks.wa.gov 360-902-8629

They were also like $35 bucks each. Might still be according to the ad.

I used a pair of Vasque Ice 9000s when I was down in the CB and was quite happy with them. Temps down there aren't generally that bad and I saw a few folks with single insulated boots like Nepal Extremes. I think it's mostly a matter of keeping moving when it's cold at night, if things go smoothly you'll be warm enough. If you have to stop due to a party above you or something, it's nice to have some extra insulation. I think I would have been fine if I took my Nepals, but the double boots were nice and I had some liners to sleep with my toes tucked in as well. There are several synthetic double boots now that climb way better than your old plastics, might be worth investing in especially if you plan on stuff in Alaska or high winter climbs in the NW.

Bluewater 5.5 mm spectra cord is over 14 KN. 5 mil non-spectra seems awful weenie, especially if you deduct ~30% for strength lost at your knots. I'd go with 7mm if you don't want to use spectra.

FYI, the Peninsula Daily News is looking to do a story this Sunday and talk about the climbing and some of the issues around the Rock. They are looking for someone to give a quick tour of the rock and the climbing there. They might take some pictures too. Unfortunately I just came back to Seattle after several days out there. Anyone available to give a tour? It’s a great opportunity to get our voices heard as a user group and put a positive face on climbers as respectful and invested in protection, preservation, and continued use of the rock by all the groups who feel connected with it. Let me know if you are available some time in the next couple days and I'll put you in touch. - Stewart 360-301-2585

I always like to fondle gear, although no one wanted any of my crappy stuff last year. ;-) We need to make sure the press is invited again too!

I really like Ballnutz for clean thin aid, often easier to deal with than a fiddly tiny nut in a nearly parallel crack. I've also used em (rarely) for thin cracks in basalt on free climbs. These look like the non-ball version that have been around for a long time under various names. Good price, but I think most agree the ball nut is superior.

I have been in touch with the Access Fund, and cc'd the WCC. I haven't heard from a ton of local folks though. Here is the recent update I got from Owen at the Jefferson Land Trust: Hi Stewart- A bit slow getting to you because I was away for a couple of weeks, but during the time that I was gone, Erik, State Parks, Northwest Watershed Institute, and several representatives from the Jamestown S'Klallam Tribe met at Tamanous Rock to discuss long- and short-term management. Also this last weekend several tribes (Port Gamble S'Klallam, Jamestown S'Klallam, and Suquamish) held a ceremony celebrating the acquisition of the Rock and included and some of the major contributors to the Land Trust's Tamanous Fund. The significance of this spiritual site to the tribes for centuries was very clear, and very moving. At the management meeting, the Jamestown folks spoke of their desire to limit trails to one "through" trail, and have it in a location that is out of sight of the Rock. There was also discussion of climbing, and it appears that the best solution may be to seek an alternate site within Anderson Lake State Park. Perhaps you know more about the possibilities there? This is how Erik summarized the Tribe's views on climbing:  Tribe considers rock climbing on the rock to be disrespectful, and an inappropriate use of a sanctuary  Tribe considers hardware in the rock particularly disrespectful  Whether or not to allow climbing in the long-term management of the rock will be a decision of the Tribal Council  It is clear that further discussions will be had before a final determination on this issue is made  Since there appears to be a sister rock inside the Park, the suggestion was made to explore its use for rock climbing purposes to take the pressure off Tamanowas Rock for such activities; this would likely require a special arrangement with State Parks which has allowed such activities in one other park in the State. Your offer of help with cleanup and upkeep is appreciated. This coming week, during school's spring break, at least two tribes are bringing Tribal students out to start removing graffiti and cleaning up trash, so we'll see what they get done first. Thus while nothing has been decided and discussion will continue, the likelihood of the Tribe allowing climbing seems small. I'm sorry if this is discouraging news, but I feel it is important to respect the wishes of the native people who have been here so much longer than all of us, and also to work to understand the nature and depth of their connection with this remarkable place. regards, Owen

On my last avy course the instructors recommended retiring beacons that old. If it's drifted out of the (likely narrower) digital tolerance of the newer beacons, who knows how long you have till it drifts far enough to also not be picked up by other older beacons? Better safe than sorry. When in doubt, throw it out, just like much of the other things we use for safety while climbing. Or feel free to continue to bash on changes in the modern world . . . ;-)

I second that. They do great work on nicely shaped toes for crack climbing. Love it!

Sort of climbing related so I thought I'd try here. I'm looking to either buy or borrow (or even just get a few scanned pages) of Canyoneering 2 by Steve Allen. I thought I had a copy of this and it seems to have disappeared. As with other things out of print, there are copies online but they hike the price up since its "rare" now. I'm looking for a reasonable priced copy, or just one I can borrow for a couple days (or an hour). I want to get some info on a particular loop in that book that I did in 2000 and it is not described in the same way in the other canyoneering guidebooks I have. I need #2, not #1 or #3 from that series (both of those are much easier to find for some reason). Thanks, Stewart 360-301-2585 or pm me

Trip: Darrington - Exfoliation Dome - Jacobs Ladder - 5.11c or 10b C1 Date: 3/6/2010 Trip Report: With the beautiful weather predicted over the weekend and several dry days before, I was hoping some nice multi-pitch rock would be relatively dry and sunny at Darrington. I recruited MountainMatt and he suggested we give Jacob's Ladder a shot, with the caveat that he had to be back in town early for a concert with his girlfriend. I told him he had to lead the hard pitch. The road in was a little rough on my Camry so I parked at the first washout after the turnoff before Three-o-clock rock, but would be fine all the way to past the second washout with anything with a little more ground clearance. Parking where I did only adds a 5 minute walk though. Thanks to MattP for cleaning that bit up! Matt guided me up the Granite Sidewalk pretty much the best way without error, his past experience saving me any anguish and leaving me to poke fun at others earlier mishaps. It was dry in all the right spots to actually be a fairly quick approach to the base of the route (an hour or so, forgot to look at the watch). Matt strolling up the sidewalk. We left the sidewalk at a fairly logical point at a thin spot in the trees where a ramp kind of heads off toward the right part of the wall. A few minutes of traversing ledges and grassy platforms and we were at the start of the route. We couldn't locate the exact start or see the bolt, but I ended up leading up and finding the first anchor pretty easily anyways. Here is the wall from standing on a grassy ledge at the base of the first pitch (taken on the way out). The second pitch was dealt with easily by Matt, slightly runout but easy slab. I got the third pitch, which had one annoying wet bit (fortunately right at a bolt) but was otherwise great climbing. I start the third pitch. It goes up to the right of the large bush. Matt started out well on the trad part of pitch four but was foiled by another water streak and had to resort to pulling on bolts through the free crux. Note that he still had to stand in a sling and reach, and pull some free moves in a few spots anyways, not just easy french free. I did a little better on TR but still slipped after the crux after wetting my shoes. Matt starts P4. Pitch 5 was fun slopey sport climbing with a little sting in the tail to reach the anchors, again with a minor wet spot. Matt was a bit tired and we were running short on time so I took pitch 6 as well which was probably the scariest of them all with a funny bolt protected crux traverse and then a section of paper thin flake with crappy pro through a small roof to reach the next bolt. Pitch 6, note the white rock scar below me where the thin flake is likely to continue exfoliating. Due to time and energy we decided to turn around here leaving the final 5.9 and 5.8 pitches to the terrace for a future trip. Fortunately the rappel route (double ropes) goes right back down (with a minor deviation). You can see pitches 3-6 well here, up from me to the right of the bush then diagonally up through the rock scar. On the way down in the sun most of the wet spots encountered earlier had dried. We packed up and headed home, another beautiful day in the hills with a good friend! More pics here: http://picasaweb.google.com/matthiesen/JacobsLadderClimbExfoliationDomeDarrington# Gear Notes: Single rack to number 3 camalot plus two link cams and some extra >1" pieces, a half dozen quickdraws and at least that many longer slings. We probably would have done fine without the #3 and fewer doubles (but we didn't do the final two pitches either). Approach Notes: At the second washout after turning off the road to three-o-clock rock, head up the wash till you hit the Granite Sidewalk. Pass obstacles mostly on the left and follow the sidewalk up till you can cut left through a thin spot in the tree and begin traversing left. Cross the first slab to a grassy spot at the base of the wall, then follow grassy ledges (3rd class) to the base of the route. See picture above and the topo by MattP.

Yeah but you can cheat too much on the Vantage stuff and not really have to offwidth it. Worth checking out though, Menstruating Whale Shit was also a fun but not so hard offwidth TR. I tried TR'ing Gorilla My Dreams at Index yesterday as an offwidth climb instead of a layback. Also fun and challenging, my ankles hurt.

Wow, what a great trip!

Same at Mt. Erie, so far friends got tick bit in January and Feb this year! One friend took his shirt off to find two dug in and two more crawling.

Hehehe, I've gotten that same voicemail! He's in town for a few weeks if anyone wants to talk to him directly.

Nice trip John! I haven't spent much time in that area, i would have loved to come along. Unfortunately my girlfriend's mother was in town and I had to play tour guide. Next time I wanna get on some other obscure spire with you guys!

Nice job! Here I was feeling good with my day of easy trad at Vantage in the sun. :-)

Google will save us all.