OlympicMtnBoy

Great video, looks like fun!

Hehe, actually I think it was the existence of bumble bee pass I not aware of. I had just remembered walking by Thompson on the PCT a few years earlier and thinking it didn't look hard to get to. After my Stuart climb got canceled earlier that day by a fire and a newly closed trailhead we decided to try Thompson instead of going home, no guidebook or map or anything. Good adventure. I'm glad we're not in conflict for ascent times though.

Nice, even if you didn't get that high!

The Throne did NOT look appealing from our side. [img:center]http://lh3.ggpht.com/_0naUnf5VDGU/SnikkbtNPYI/AAAAAAAAEJM/s62iMTLmQcA/s400/IMG_3924.JPG[/img] Note the many scree covered ledges. Perhaps the other side has better rock.

Trip: Mt. Monarch - East Ridge Date: 7/26/2009 Trip Report: Somewhere around a year ago Fred B. started asking me about Mt. Monarch. If you've spent much time with Fred, you know that he doesn't stop asking until he gets the answer he's looking for. Somewhere between selective hearing and years of practice, Fred get's what he wants eventually. I'd already had a busy summer, but I figured I could squeeze in this new adventure. I packed up my Chinook in Yosemite and headed back to WA to catch a board meeting for work and then had one evening to pack and to meet the other six assorted ruffians Fred had assembled (Jim, Doug, Bill, Rob, Jessie, and Theron). Chaos ensued in Fred's driveway as we tried to work out stoves, tents, food, and climbing gear the night before we were supposed to drive north, but somehow most of it made it in our various packs. The next morning found a ragged caravan on the 10-12 hour drive north to White Saddle Air Service at Bluff Lake (aka: the middle of nowhere). [img:center]http://lh3.ggpht.com/_0naUnf5VDGU/SnikO2eLkkI/AAAAAAAAEHI/FaukLMO6WY8/s400/IMG_3869.JPG[/img] [img:center]http://lh6.ggpht.com/_0naUnf5VDGU/SnikPteb2VI/AAAAAAAAEHM/y0x_bh6QHWc/s400/IMG_3871.JPG[/img] [img:center]http://lh4.ggpht.com/_0naUnf5VDGU/SnikWq-xhpI/AAAAAAAAEH8/SJC4ffxxD68/s400/IMG_3892.JPG[/img] Jim got us pulled out of line at the border and we all got interrogated, but otherwise the drive was uneventful and after a short hot and buggy night at the airfield we were all piled onto two helicopters at 6 AM and shortly thereafter deposited on the Horseshoe Glacier. Camp was erected and a few of us went up to the east ridge saddle that afternoon to scope the route and scout a high camp to make for a shorter day for Fred and anyone else who likes camping on high ridges. [img:center]http://lh6.ggpht.com/_0naUnf5VDGU/SnikhOlhqzI/AAAAAAAAEI0/fZ7S82tz5Do/s400/IMG_3919.JPG[/img] [img:center]http://lh3.ggpht.com/_0naUnf5VDGU/SnikioM43vI/AAAAAAAAEJA/_FgNQkJQscU/s400/IMG_3921.JPG[/img] [img:center]http://lh4.ggpht.com/_0naUnf5VDGU/SnikjxnMa1I/AAAAAAAAEJI/c0t5dwEgPTc/s400/IMG_3923.JPG[/img] [img:center]http://lh6.ggpht.com/_0naUnf5VDGU/Snikppv_A6I/AAAAAAAAEJs/_NyyNltO0S8/s400/IMG_3942.JPG[/img] Day 2 we had some stunning breakfast burritos with eggs, bacon, peppers, and onions (amazing what excess you get when 8 people all individually pack food AND hit the store with Fred on the way up), and then a hearty group of us set out at a slow pace for the ridge. On the ridge in the afternoon there was some question of snow conditions. Perhaps the weather was too good? Fred decided the ridge was a good high point with great views, Bill and I decided to give it a 3 AM start and see if the snow set up any. [img:center]http://lh6.ggpht.com/_0naUnf5VDGU/SnikrO4BTWI/AAAAAAAAEJ0/jg6ajrahyY4/s400/IMG_3948.JPG[/img] [img:center]http://lh6.ggpht.com/_0naUnf5VDGU/Snikty1uyEI/AAAAAAAAEKI/WEbiAs1j40s/s400/IMG_3959.JPG[/img] [img:center]http://lh4.ggpht.com/_0naUnf5VDGU/Snik1XHCowI/AAAAAAAAEK4/v8HBuWV0-o8/s400/IMG_3978.JPG[/img] The east ridge route varies greatly depending on conditions, but as the original 1936 ascent route on the mountain is steep but not too much so. Good thing because you also have to descend the route. Bill and I figured if the snow was just too bad and stuff was coming down in the wrong places we could always retreat. We made fairly quick time over the already explored 4th class rock step, dinked around with crampons a bit later on the ridge, and then finally scrambled up on top of the second rock step (3rd class). At sunrise we had crossed the first bergschrund on the hanging glacier and were heading up the 40-45 degree ice face. [img:center]http://lh6.ggpht.com/_0naUnf5VDGU/Snik2jWfmzI/AAAAAAAAELA/p6iRYbcRzAs/s400/IMG_3981.JPG[/img] [img:center]http://lh3.ggpht.com/_0naUnf5VDGU/Snik6LlG9jI/AAAAAAAAELc/oUwMzFs_YmU/s400/IMG_3989.JPG[/img] The face was a strange mass of solidified margarita ice, but made for fairly solid footing and we kept an ice screw between us for a running belay. A few rock placements were found in the upper gully, but fairly easy travel continued right of the obvious scoured potions to the notch near the summit. We had one more move of "19th century climbing", as Bill put it, to surmount a large chockstone, and were soon on the fine firm summit snow ridge and then the summit proper (a little less than 5 hours from high camp). [img:center]http://lh5.ggpht.com/_0naUnf5VDGU/Snik7psitXI/AAAAAAAAELk/UHNWQgbO2Mg/s400/IMG_3991.JPG[/img] [img:center]http://lh6.ggpht.com/_0naUnf5VDGU/Snik9_gKWjI/AAAAAAAAELw/CPssp3YpWA4/s400/IMG_3998.JPG[/img] [img:center]http://lh3.ggpht.com/_0naUnf5VDGU/Snik8emNCmI/AAAAAAAAELo/3HXQiJZMMaQ/s400/IMG_3992.JPG[/img] After basking in the sun, chowing down on fresh bread, mozzarella, and prosciutto, and shouting to friends farther down the ridge, we began what was to be a fairly arduous descent. After 8 AM or so the north face of the summit block began dumping snow in the gully although we were fortunately able to stay clear on the side. We rigged three 30 meter rappels off horns and one piton which got us down out of the narrower gully and onto the safer face under easterly facing rock which had already melted out and wasn't spitting at us. Careful simul-downclimbing (the margarita ice didn't seem conducive the v-threads at that time) took us back to the lower angle hanging glacier (where most of our ascent steps had already melted away), and then back to the top of the rock step and safer ground. [img:center]http://lh4.ggpht.com/_0naUnf5VDGU/Snik_QFmq6I/AAAAAAAAEL4/mdno--SHUj4/s400/IMG_4000.JPG[/img] A leisurely pace (and a few of my slips in the soft snow which were fortunately not exposed) brought us back to high camp around 1 PM for congratulations from Fred and Jim who then headed back down to base. A little (or a lot) warmer than desired, but still a great climb. Bill and I decided to spend another night up high and Theron kept us company watching the stars come out and a beautiful sunset from the sun warmed rocks. [img:center]http://lh6.ggpht.com/_0naUnf5VDGU/SnilAzyGsQI/AAAAAAAAEME/_ae0N_VtYTc/s400/IMG_4004.JPG[/img] [img:center]http://lh3.ggpht.com/_0naUnf5VDGU/SnilCCruW6I/AAAAAAAAEMM/1qiCtRnGzr0/s400/IMG_4006.JPG[/img] The next day I scrambled an hour the other way on the ridge to the summit of the Queen with Doug, soloing on the way up and two short raps to get down (Doug only did one). That afternoon we all headed back to base to take advantage of the ~17 bottles worth of wine we had, and other nice luxuries we hadn't toted up the ridge. I slept well that night. [img:center]http://lh5.ggpht.com/_0naUnf5VDGU/SnilFw8pc7I/AAAAAAAAEMo/Mutl6kRdnXo/s400/IMG_4017.JPG[/img] On our final (5th) day up there Doug, Theron, and I scrambled to the summit of the Serf for some more great pictures and slightly better rock than the Queen, and then made it back down for final celebrations in camp. After some debate Jessie and Rob decided to head back up to the top of the last rock step to see if conditions cooled that night, and the rest of us went to bed. [img:center]http://lh3.ggpht.com/_0naUnf5VDGU/SnilKYFxUBI/AAAAAAAAENE/DCt8AakeOuM/s400/IMG_4028.JPG[/img] [img:center]http://lh5.ggpht.com/_0naUnf5VDGU/SnilM7rpFmI/AAAAAAAAENU/TZ2WrHQjL5Q/s400/IMG_4033.JPG[/img] Our early morning helicopter arrive (the other four were heading out the next day) and we piled all our gear in again and sped off. Jessie and Rob had found a low of 52 high on the ridge and were heading back down, just in time for us to buzz by them on the ridge. Soon we were back at the lake and then cruising back down at Doug speed towards Seattle. [img:center]http://lh5.ggpht.com/_0naUnf5VDGU/SnilUcV7SOI/AAAAAAAAEOI/h-pgR0tdWNU/s400/IMG_4053.JPG[/img] [img:center]http://lh6.ggpht.com/_0naUnf5VDGU/SnilZtfjl6I/AAAAAAAAEOs/i_XSgCJ5-d0/s400/IMG_4072.JPG[/img] I hadn't planned on returning till Sunday night so the Friday night arrival gave me a nice couple of days to catch up before work again on Monday. Overall another great trip to the hills with some great old and new friends. I'm glad Bill and I got on the summit when we did as we were the only ones to do so, but the climb it self was another beautiful line on a beautiful mountain in a range I had never been in. The rest of the pictures are here: http://picasaweb.google.com/matthiesen/MtMonarch# Some of them came out really well, I think my tiny camera liked the extra bright light. Gear Notes: Light alpine rock rack with a few pins, long ice screws, 60m half rope, walking axe and a second tool. Approach Notes: Drive north in B.C. to Williams Lake, turn left towards Bella Coola and head to Tatla Lake, go south to White Saddle. Helicopter approaches are da bomb! Just watch where you pitch your tent if the weather is hot.

Nice, looks like fun, I'll have to get up there some day!

Yeah, some of my favorite routes are up there (mostly for ambiance and such). I wonder what is going on.

Thanks guys! It was a great trip and a really fun line. I felt many of the pitches up there could be classic with a little more traffic and it was amazing how such nice steep cracks were broken up by great belay ledges. For more pictures and Matt's topo check out my picasa web albums. Trip One, cleaning and aiding: http://picasaweb.google.com/matthiesen/ColchuckBalancedRockTheScoop# Trip Two, Cleaning and freeing: http://picasaweb.google.com/matthiesen/ColchuckBalancedRockTheScoop02#

Nice job. Hoe does camping under the peak affect SKT records? I thought that way was especially slow (yet enjoyable). Also does it count if you lose time due to missing bumble bee pass (and trying to approach/climb without any sort of prior knowledge other than rumor of a route)? I look forward to more of this time trend!

Nice Lisa (and Doug)! I've been wanting to do a traverse like that for a while. You guys sure lucked out on the weather too! - S

Nice Andy, I love Olympics ridges! Great weekend for it! Did you stop in the hot springs on the way down from Boulder Lake? Lisa, did you let Doug talk you into something again? ;-)

There are probably others who know more, but sometimes you can find industrial machines on Craigslist, just make sure you can find parts and probably pay someone to clean and tune it. Those really old Singers can also do the job and can still sometimes be found at Goodwill and the like. Most industrial machines do one very fast straight stitch and not much else, look for one made for strength instead of speed. If you find something heavy duty but portable let me know, I need something that fits in my apartment without room for a whole table setup. For cam slings you'll need a bartacker, but really I'd just pay the $3-4 each to get them reslung by someone with a computer controlled machine for consistency and reliable stitches. Some home machines and a few others will do a zig-zag stitch which is very handy for repairs and can also be used to make a sort-of bartack which works well for repairing gear, chalk bag belts, etc, but i wouldn't use it for life support.

Provided it's not raining, I have to be back in town around 5 or 6 at the latest and my usual partners are heading out for two days elsewhere. Anyone wanna take off reasonably early in the AM and come back in the late afternoon? I'd like to check out the stuff over by Rattletale since I haven't climbed there for some reason, but am flexible if you've got a goal in mind. I'd like to get on some good 5.10 cracks. I am happy to lead but would prefer that you lead some as well, had a lot of trips as ropegun lately. More than happy to follow harder also. I have rope and rack and can drive, drop e a PM if you're interested.

Nice job, sounds like a lot of fun (minus the lightning). Sounds like you're having a great trip there!

Looks like fun guys, great time of year to get up there. And nice tent, I got one of those off ebay a while ago and it's great. Maybe I should do a spring climb this long weekend out there?

Probably too late for ya, but the Dungeness is nice this time of year, hike up to Camp Handy for a mellow trip, or farther to Boulder Shelter. I went up to Goat Lake with my girl a couple weeks ago, got up there without putting the snowshoes on at all (but the lake was still totally frozen). Have fun, should be a great weekend to be out here!

Those Mountainsmith Dyno packs are awesome BTW, I've had mine since 2002 when I got it for like $30 on a closeout pro deal. It's still my main cragging pack and has been through tons and tons of travel, abuse, and climbing wear. If it wasn't still in fairly good shape I'd buy this one!

Nice, great winter project, thanks!

Hehe, yeah, my pile is bigger than that. My go-to boot for snowy things in the Cascades has been my old Nepal Extremes (pictured above). Anything I might want a step in crampon for, or anything in winter (including Rainier in winter with stellar weather). I've had no problems with drying (or wetting) with trips up to 5 days or so. I have a pair of Vasque Ice 9000s that I used for higher stuff in Peru that I liked, and can dry, but I've never been out here in anything cold enough for em. Then I've got my backpacking boots, a new pair of Garmont Vetta Pluses for longer alpine trips, some approach shoes for shorter trips, several pairs of rock shoes, ski boots, sandals . . .

PM sent for newer orange TCU.

If anybody has a broken cam or other broken hardware you don't need please bring it, I'm looking for something for an art project. I'll trade you a beer (or a broken #4 camalot which is too big for my needs). :-) I'll have the cc.com shirt on with my name on it (or look for the red beard and glasses).

Allright, you guys are leaving the Olympics out (and you can stay out, I don't like crowds). Mt. Cruiser - 5.0 route [img:center]http://gallery.photo.net/photo/1275548-lg.jpg[/img] Mt. Olympus - Standard Route [img:center]http://www.cs.cmu.edu/%7Emcmahan/brendan_mt_olympus.jpg[/img] Mt. Constance - West Arete - 5.4 (sorry I can't find a pic, my buddy's pic site is down right now)

Nice job, wish I were there!

Nice, I scoped that descent last time I was up there thinking it has got to be easier, but didn't risk forging on unknown ground with my tired/less experienced partner. Thanks for checking it out!

Welcome to the fun! Why don't you tell us what you climbed in your course and what type of climbing you want to do (rock, ice, glaciers, day trip, week trip, etc). What routes are you thinking of that might be over your head?