OlympicMtnBoy

I always like to fondle gear, although no one wanted any of my crappy stuff last year. ;-) We need to make sure the press is invited again too!

I really like Ballnutz for clean thin aid, often easier to deal with than a fiddly tiny nut in a nearly parallel crack. I've also used em (rarely) for thin cracks in basalt on free climbs. These look like the non-ball version that have been around for a long time under various names. Good price, but I think most agree the ball nut is superior.

I have been in touch with the Access Fund, and cc'd the WCC. I haven't heard from a ton of local folks though. Here is the recent update I got from Owen at the Jefferson Land Trust: Hi Stewart- A bit slow getting to you because I was away for a couple of weeks, but during the time that I was gone, Erik, State Parks, Northwest Watershed Institute, and several representatives from the Jamestown S'Klallam Tribe met at Tamanous Rock to discuss long- and short-term management. Also this last weekend several tribes (Port Gamble S'Klallam, Jamestown S'Klallam, and Suquamish) held a ceremony celebrating the acquisition of the Rock and included and some of the major contributors to the Land Trust's Tamanous Fund. The significance of this spiritual site to the tribes for centuries was very clear, and very moving. At the management meeting, the Jamestown folks spoke of their desire to limit trails to one "through" trail, and have it in a location that is out of sight of the Rock. There was also discussion of climbing, and it appears that the best solution may be to seek an alternate site within Anderson Lake State Park. Perhaps you know more about the possibilities there? This is how Erik summarized the Tribe's views on climbing:  Tribe considers rock climbing on the rock to be disrespectful, and an inappropriate use of a sanctuary  Tribe considers hardware in the rock particularly disrespectful  Whether or not to allow climbing in the long-term management of the rock will be a decision of the Tribal Council  It is clear that further discussions will be had before a final determination on this issue is made  Since there appears to be a sister rock inside the Park, the suggestion was made to explore its use for rock climbing purposes to take the pressure off Tamanowas Rock for such activities; this would likely require a special arrangement with State Parks which has allowed such activities in one other park in the State. Your offer of help with cleanup and upkeep is appreciated. This coming week, during school's spring break, at least two tribes are bringing Tribal students out to start removing graffiti and cleaning up trash, so we'll see what they get done first. Thus while nothing has been decided and discussion will continue, the likelihood of the Tribe allowing climbing seems small. I'm sorry if this is discouraging news, but I feel it is important to respect the wishes of the native people who have been here so much longer than all of us, and also to work to understand the nature and depth of their connection with this remarkable place. regards, Owen

On my last avy course the instructors recommended retiring beacons that old. If it's drifted out of the (likely narrower) digital tolerance of the newer beacons, who knows how long you have till it drifts far enough to also not be picked up by other older beacons? Better safe than sorry. When in doubt, throw it out, just like much of the other things we use for safety while climbing. Or feel free to continue to bash on changes in the modern world . . . ;-)

I second that. They do great work on nicely shaped toes for crack climbing. Love it!

Sort of climbing related so I thought I'd try here. I'm looking to either buy or borrow (or even just get a few scanned pages) of Canyoneering 2 by Steve Allen. I thought I had a copy of this and it seems to have disappeared. As with other things out of print, there are copies online but they hike the price up since its "rare" now. I'm looking for a reasonable priced copy, or just one I can borrow for a couple days (or an hour). I want to get some info on a particular loop in that book that I did in 2000 and it is not described in the same way in the other canyoneering guidebooks I have. I need #2, not #1 or #3 from that series (both of those are much easier to find for some reason). Thanks, Stewart 360-301-2585 or pm me

Trip: Darrington - Exfoliation Dome - Jacobs Ladder - 5.11c or 10b C1 Date: 3/6/2010 Trip Report: With the beautiful weather predicted over the weekend and several dry days before, I was hoping some nice multi-pitch rock would be relatively dry and sunny at Darrington. I recruited MountainMatt and he suggested we give Jacob's Ladder a shot, with the caveat that he had to be back in town early for a concert with his girlfriend. I told him he had to lead the hard pitch. The road in was a little rough on my Camry so I parked at the first washout after the turnoff before Three-o-clock rock, but would be fine all the way to past the second washout with anything with a little more ground clearance. Parking where I did only adds a 5 minute walk though. Thanks to MattP for cleaning that bit up! Matt guided me up the Granite Sidewalk pretty much the best way without error, his past experience saving me any anguish and leaving me to poke fun at others earlier mishaps. It was dry in all the right spots to actually be a fairly quick approach to the base of the route (an hour or so, forgot to look at the watch). Matt strolling up the sidewalk. We left the sidewalk at a fairly logical point at a thin spot in the trees where a ramp kind of heads off toward the right part of the wall. A few minutes of traversing ledges and grassy platforms and we were at the start of the route. We couldn't locate the exact start or see the bolt, but I ended up leading up and finding the first anchor pretty easily anyways. Here is the wall from standing on a grassy ledge at the base of the first pitch (taken on the way out). The second pitch was dealt with easily by Matt, slightly runout but easy slab. I got the third pitch, which had one annoying wet bit (fortunately right at a bolt) but was otherwise great climbing. I start the third pitch. It goes up to the right of the large bush. Matt started out well on the trad part of pitch four but was foiled by another water streak and had to resort to pulling on bolts through the free crux. Note that he still had to stand in a sling and reach, and pull some free moves in a few spots anyways, not just easy french free. I did a little better on TR but still slipped after the crux after wetting my shoes. Matt starts P4. Pitch 5 was fun slopey sport climbing with a little sting in the tail to reach the anchors, again with a minor wet spot. Matt was a bit tired and we were running short on time so I took pitch 6 as well which was probably the scariest of them all with a funny bolt protected crux traverse and then a section of paper thin flake with crappy pro through a small roof to reach the next bolt. Pitch 6, note the white rock scar below me where the thin flake is likely to continue exfoliating. Due to time and energy we decided to turn around here leaving the final 5.9 and 5.8 pitches to the terrace for a future trip. Fortunately the rappel route (double ropes) goes right back down (with a minor deviation). You can see pitches 3-6 well here, up from me to the right of the bush then diagonally up through the rock scar. On the way down in the sun most of the wet spots encountered earlier had dried. We packed up and headed home, another beautiful day in the hills with a good friend! More pics here: http://picasaweb.google.com/matthiesen/JacobsLadderClimbExfoliationDomeDarrington# Gear Notes: Single rack to number 3 camalot plus two link cams and some extra >1" pieces, a half dozen quickdraws and at least that many longer slings. We probably would have done fine without the #3 and fewer doubles (but we didn't do the final two pitches either). Approach Notes: At the second washout after turning off the road to three-o-clock rock, head up the wash till you hit the Granite Sidewalk. Pass obstacles mostly on the left and follow the sidewalk up till you can cut left through a thin spot in the tree and begin traversing left. Cross the first slab to a grassy spot at the base of the wall, then follow grassy ledges (3rd class) to the base of the route. See picture above and the topo by MattP.

Yeah but you can cheat too much on the Vantage stuff and not really have to offwidth it. Worth checking out though, Menstruating Whale Shit was also a fun but not so hard offwidth TR. I tried TR'ing Gorilla My Dreams at Index yesterday as an offwidth climb instead of a layback. Also fun and challenging, my ankles hurt.

Wow, what a great trip!

Same at Mt. Erie, so far friends got tick bit in January and Feb this year! One friend took his shirt off to find two dug in and two more crawling.

Hehehe, I've gotten that same voicemail! He's in town for a few weeks if anyone wants to talk to him directly.

Nice trip John! I haven't spent much time in that area, i would have loved to come along. Unfortunately my girlfriend's mother was in town and I had to play tour guide. Next time I wanna get on some other obscure spire with you guys!

Nice job! Here I was feeling good with my day of easy trad at Vantage in the sun. :-)

Google will save us all.

Thanks, I drove by that cliff on Eaglemount. It might be worth a route or two if we loose Tamanous Rock, although not of the cool multipitch variety we currently have. I didn't have time to get out of the car though. Anyone have any idea who owns it? No new work from the Jefferson Land Trust. I've offered some easement language from the Access Fund and my professional grant writing skills to assist the State Park in raising funds. It sounds like it's too early for them, or not a priority, probably some of both. Additional local input to them would be great.

I don't believe you guys would even consider this attempt (didn't Fred do it in like 1892 already anyways). Look at all those poor souls below you who have obviously already reserved that wall and you are up there knocking rocks down on them and even threatening them with loose beer cans. And what's with the "A0", you ought to leave these climbs for the future generations who actually have the skills to free climb things and know how to jump a silly little gap. Even that kid Marc can jump it and he's just a white guy from Canada. There are people working so hard to get up those awesome bolted lines who have been training for years and probably come all the way from Seattle and Portland and there you are screwing up their trips of a lifetime with your little "traverse". You should just edit this post before the climbing authorities get word and ban you from Vantage. What are you gonna do when you can't reserve the Sunshine Wall anymore eh? - OMB . . . maybe I'm just jealous I couldn't stick around and do it with you . . .

Nice trip, way to get out solo up there!

I have one and I also love it. It does compress under a helmet, but puffs up anywhere not covered by a strap. I also like that it doesn't make for a hard ball when I take it off an stuff it in my pocket, it compresses and basically disappears (I've lost it that way at home a few times). It's definitely my favorite hat. Yep, it's pretty damn pricey (he just raised the price from his intro offer of the past year), but so is any other sort of hand made 900 fp down gear. Nunatak makes some nice $175 down booties if you are so inclined as well. There is a niche for everything. It sounds like he's selling enough to keep busy. Wouldn't be high on my list if just getting started and I just needed a hat, but I do love it. Cheers! - OMB

Nice job, looks like a great day out even if the snow wasn't ideal!

BTW, if you just have some rand peeling off you can reglue it yourself with some barge cement and it works pretty well.

Try Dave Page in Seattle. www.davepagecobbler.com

Thanks John. I'm trying to be optimistic and think of it as a potential opportunity to secure climbing access for the long term. I know that it may be a losing battle, but it's worth at least getting our voices heard. Perhaps something could be worked out with a new anchor ban and some clean up? Has anyone though of painting some of the shiny hangers to make them blend in more. I know some folks just think it's an eyesore to see a line of shiny bolts in the overhanging amphitheater area when they have drum circles around the fire pit. Out of sight out of mind maybe, or at least lower on the priority list to pull out? Anyone want to help? Sherri, I'm up for checking things out if anyone is interested. I haven't driven by Eaglemount for a while, but I'm out in PT once a month (next week actually). I'll try to drive by there.

Calling all Chimacum/Port Townsend rock climbers! Changes are coming to Tamanous Rock! Yes, it's a choss pile, but I know a few folks still climb there and that it's the only rock anywhere near Port Townsend or Chimacum so I wanted to share this pending access issue in case any of you would like to be involved. This last December the land surrounding and including the rock was purchased by the Jefferson Land Trust in coordination with the Jamestown S'klallam Tribe, and Anderson Lake State Park (managed by Ft. Flagler). The land, previously owned by George Heidigerken, was a development investment and climbing/hiking/dirk biking, etc was at least passively allowed. I have been visiting the rock for at least 20 years. With this recent purchase the land will now be transferred from the Jefferson Land Trust in a couple of years when the loan is paid off to either the Tribe (most likely) or the State Park. The Tribe views this as a sacred/spiritual site and appears to be likely to close access to the rock itself and remove permanent anchors. The State Park has no money and no experience managing climbing issues either. I have been in contact with Owen Fairbank and Sarah Spaeth at the Jefferson Land Trust who I know through work. Few decisions have been made as to the final disposition of the land, wording of a conservation easement should the land remain private, management plans, etc, so now is the time to get constructively involved. I now live in Seattle and only climb at the Rock a few times a year. I would like to know if there is interest from others in trying to maintain access, and if anyone is more local who might be ale to attend relevant meetings to represent climbers, etc. I have many fond memories of learning to climb there and would like to continue to do so. I'm guessing there are more of us out there who feel the same? Background for those of you who have no idea what I'm talking about: Tamanous Rock is located off of Anderson Lake Rd. near the SKP trailer park. There are about 10 bolted routes, half of which are two pitches, ranging from 5.6 to a few overhanging 5.11-12? routes. There are a couple of sketchy trad/aid lines as well. There is also a cable route up the backside used by all sorts of folks to reach the top. You can post up here or contact me at stewartmatthiesen (at) hotmail. or 360-379-9421. I'll try to post this notice eleswhere and would appreciate any help from anyone involved with WCC or the Access Fund as well.

Nothing to add other than I've been up there in Feb before because I could have sworn there was a freeze thaw cycle going on in the weather forecast. Wallowing in deep powder, great for skiing, not for climbing. It's north facing, so it really needs to actually get pretty warm up there during the day a bit for things to consolidate more.

Sounds like a fun day in the mountains! Thanks for the TR and pics!