Rad

Trip: Index delivers - the goods Date: 5/10/2008 Trip Report: I have enjoyed recent TRs where people have shared their climbing tales. IMHO this site could use more TRs, so I wanted to follow suit. Summary: Index stayed dry enough on May 10th to climb: Ultrabrutal (minor wetness). Tunnel Vision. Angora Grotto (why the bolts next to the crack?). Climax Control. Cunning Stunt. Morning Star (thanks for cleaning this). Leave My Face Alone (need 2 ropes or a 70m rope to get down easily). Zoom. A slightly more animated account of a fabulous spring day (sorry, no camera): It was overcast as I waited in a parking lot by the freeway in Everett for Blake just before 10am. Blake doesn’t seem to trust me around his girlfriend, even though I’m happily married with kids, so kept her locked safely inside the minivan. Undeterred, she and I exchanged longing glances and waved enthusiastically at each other through the shatterproof glass. Blake hopped in my car and we headed East on Route 2, hoping the showers would hold off enough to allow us to savor some yummy Index climbs. The fact that the low hills and peaks were not visible did not bode well, but we pressed on ahead. At first, it was just cloudy. Then, just a few miles from the Index-Galena junction, it started. A few drops. Then more. Then still more. I reluctantly turned on the windshield wipers, no longer able to ignore the fact that the rain was preventing me from seeing the road ahead. As we crossed the bridge we talked about whether to shoot through to Leavenworth or give Index a try despite the showers. It sure would be nice not to drive another hour plus each way…let’s just take a look at the Lower Town Wall. The shower stopped just as we stepped out of the car. There was just one other car in the parking lot. We strolled over to the Country and looked at the wall. Now that’s an approach to envy! The opening mantle of Zoom was impossibly wet. Not good. But the vertical parts of adjacent climbs looked better. I lead Ultrabrutal, carefully avoiding a few wet spots. 5.7 Blake lead Tunnel Vision, which was in good shape. The skies seemed to brighten a bit. I followed, weighting the rope to downclimb to a rest before firing the crux at the second bolt. Not quite clean. 10d in Sky, 11a/b in Cummins’ online guide. Side note: Blake tells me he pmd Daryl Cramer (dcramer?) and sent some money for a guide. This seems like a good way to see that your money goes directly to the author and not to Amazon/REI/etc. I plan to send a pm to see if I can get one from him. Looking up from Tunnel Vision, I decided to give Angora Grotto a shot, knowing I could lower off or French free if I couldn’t climb the route clean. Both guides list this at 11a. I started out more anxious than I needed to be, but was eventually able to calm the body and the mind. After all, it’s only sport climbing, and there’s no real danger (cue has-been trad-only-climber whiner poster who did ‘real’ climbing back in the day several decades ago). Climbing up on my spray-inducing high horse… I enjoy trad climbs as much as our favorite whiners, particularly when gear placements are solid but not obvious. A great trad climb is a puzzle that must be solved in two dimensions simultaneously: climbing the route clean, and adequately protecting it. Leading trad-onsight is a true joy. I freely acknowledge that it’s more strenuous to place gear on trad climbs than on sport routes. However, I also enjoy sport climbing for several reasons: 1 - You can climb where there are no gear placements available. 2 - The moves are often more varied and interesting on sport routes than on crack routes. 3 - You can lead closer to the limit of your climbing ability without fear of injury. 4 - You can climb more routes/pitches per day than trad routes because clipping bolts is much faster than placing gear. Anyone who thinks all bolt routes are wimpy needs to visit Tuolumne and climb some slabs, or for that matter Bachar-Yerian. Climbing has many forms. Enjoy them all if you can. Climbing down off my high horse and back to Index… I went up Angora Grotto with no expectations and was pleasantly surprised as I got higher and higher. There were some very fun moves over the roof, nice balance moves to the alcove just up and left, and up into the undercling/lieback above that. My spirits rose higher and higher as I approached the anchor. This was my first Index 11a climb and I was very psyched to get it onsight. I know there are harder 11as and even harder Index 10s, but it’s still a milestone for me. Can someone tell me why the 1.5 inch crack at the start of Angora Grotto has bolts next to it? These are absent in the old Clint Cummins online topo and look pretty new. It is a lovely crack that would definitely take gear. You should have the rack from the Ultra-Brutal approach, unless you left it on that anchor as we did when we saw only bolts on the Sky topo. Would you approach from Climax Control? I doubt it. The link from the CC anchor to the anchor at the base of AG is a groove full of dripping green prickers and moss. Regardless, I don’t see the point of bolting next to this fine crack. Did I clip the bolts? Yes, so I guess I’ll burn in hell…but enough of that. Next we TRd the line to the left of Angora Grotto (in Sky but not Cummins). The mantle down low and subsequent crack transitions felt substantially harder than Grotto even though Sky lists this section at 10+. The roof above, listed as 11b in Sky, is much easier. There’s something funny there, but I know I still have plenty of room to improve and much to learn. We rapped to the ground and I rehydrated after taking off my sweaty helmet. Blake kept his stinky shoes on, thankfully, but I didn’t return the favor. The skies were still cloudy but we hadn’t had any more showers. The temperature was perfect. Cool but comfortable. Blake lead Climax Control with one fall. Nice job. We pulled the rope as I wanted to save my energy for Cunning Stunt. I lead Cunning Stunt onsight, placing a stopper and cam to back up the rusty pin. Sky calls it 10d and Cummins calls it 11a. It felt easier than some of the other routes we did. Still, it was harder than any of the Index climbs I’d lead before Angora Grotto. I then TRd Climax Control. I pulled through the crux, redlining, but couldn’t stay in control on the balancy stepup/mantle above that and teetered off. I now understand the route name. This one is worth coming back to do (11c in both guides). Blake then lead Morning Star, a 5.8ish crack chimney, and continued to the Zoom p1 belay. MS has been cleaned up nicely since I saw it last year. Thank you. Despite some wetness down low, Leave My Face Alone looked really good and Blake was kind enough to let me take a crack at it. This route goes up a corner/flake system to a small roof. Getting over the small roof and onto the upper face involved excellent moves that required some thought. The upper face is outstanding. It has a fabulous position and requires you to link amazing small square edges that get smaller and smaller as you approach the top. This climb really engages the brain as you get higher, which is always fun. The crux for me and Blake was the last ten feet to the belay ledge, which was quite devious and sequency. I set up on a sloping right sidepull, high-stepped into a tenuous smear, crimped a tiny left hold, and lunged for the final jug, whooping with joy upon catching it. In my view, this was the best climb of the day. This route is 11a in both guides. I was very psyched to climb it onsight. I know grades mean little, and 5.11a is only moderate in the Layton book of grades, but for me this is a breakthrough. For almost two decades, 5.11 was a psychological barrier, an impenetrable ceiling through which I thought I would never pass. Free the mind and the body will follow. Unfortunately, our single 60m rope didn’t reach back to the Zoom belay so we played some downclimbing games, always protected, to get there. I refused to set up an intermediate rap on a small sapling, though a new sling indicated someone had recently done just that. Note: a 70m would probably reach, or you could climb on two ropes. Neither guide mentions this. As we started rapping down Zoom a small shower blew through the valley. By the time we were down it had stopped. We TRd Zoom and headed off to wash the sweat and dirt off our faces in the bracing waters of the swollen river. This time Blake didn’t spare me the unquenchable stench of his shoes, but I was too high on the day to care. Not bad for a late start on a rainy day… We only saw two other parties on the entire Lower Town wall the entire day. Thanks for an excellent outing, Blake, and for letting me lead some great pitches. Coming soon: Cruel Shoes, the Grand Wall, and the Black Dyke! Gear Notes: Rack, draws, and tea in thermos. Approach Notes: Step out of car, walk 100yds East on train track, set down pack, climb.

I know I've read that before. Is it John Muir?

Enlightenment

Related thread with less spray

IMHO that's a much better way to show national pride than invading helpless countries like Grenada, detonating test nuclear warheads, or performing one of a host of other military muscle flexing scenarios. Besides, if anyone gets frostbite you could just use the blue flame to quickly thaw it. If they are too far gone and need to be amputated you can toast up a tasty protein supplement...

Wayne, how far would you say the turkey is from Seattle? Or Portland? That thing is one of the more impressive rock formations I've seen (digitally).

Internet Blaming

Want a vacation? Take the %^<#ing! bus!

This site can use more TRs so thanks for posting It sounds like someone needs to invest a little effort in putting in a decent trail. Perhaps a group (mounties?) that uses the climb a lot could be encouraged to invest time to build one.

If you want peace and quiet and a view up the valley hike up the trail 7 minutes from Deception and do these four climbs: new area X38 climbs above Deception A new crag with trad, sport, and multipitch climbs will be unveiled later this year...

When we left the other day I counted 27 cars at the Far Side and 23 at the Deception area. I don't know how many were at the Mt Washington trailhead as we didn't drive up there. A few may be hikers and other non-climbers, but that's still a lot of cars and people! Maybe a carpool thread would cut down on the number of vehicles/break-in targets/CO2 emitters.

Went to Yos last fall with friends to explore the giant Sequoias, Sentinel dome, and the valley floor. It was perfect fall weather. I looking longingly at the cliffs, did a bit of bouldering one afternoon, but was generally content to forego climbing and enjoy spending time with our kids and friends. We stayed in Curry Village, where they show you footage of bears breaking into cars for food at the check-in counter. I put all our food in our wood cabin, according to instructions, and we settled in on a starry, silent night. I left one small window open for ventilation, and at 1am was awakened to the sound of heavy breathing/sniffing at the window. Bear! A few minutes later it shuffled away without trying to climb through the window. Those cabins are pretty darn flimsy. Yikes! Toward 3am, we were awakened by loud scrabbling sounds. I flicked on the light to see a damp rodent dash across the floor past our daughter, who continued to sleep soundly. I put her in our bed, closed the food in a dresser drawer, and left the bathroom door open for the rodent to escape. A few minutes later it darted back to the bathroom. I then sealed the sink drain and shoved a towel into the gap under the door to the hot water heater. It didn’t return.

Actually, most moose are bigger than most bears. "The moose can grow to be over 3 metres (10 ft.) in length and a shoulder height of over 2 metres (6+ft.). Males can weigh 600 kg. (over 1300 pounds)." Only polar bears or the largest grizzlies could come close.

Blake, I appreciate your skepticism. Bears are the largest animals most people see in the wild, and the experience and bear size, like a fish tale, often grow over time. Elk are probably more dangerous than bears, particularly in rutting season, but they don't have a fearsome reputation for some reason. Anyone have attack data? Over the years I've been lucky to have seen many dozens of black bears (in WA, CA, CO, ME, NH, NJ, MA, AK, Canada) and about 12 grizzlies (in Canada and AK). They are very easy to tell apart from head/face shape and shoulder anatomy, not to mention size. The one at the Far Side was definitely an adult, dark chocolate, black bear that probably weighed about 300 lbs. Cubs are easy to identify, the sub-adults (1-3) I refer to as teenagers, and adults are the others. I don't know how to tell sex unless an adult is with cubs, in which case it's mom. We stared at each other for fifteen seconds or so, which is a long time if you hold your breath and count, so we got a good look. I've had some close encounters with both grizzlies and black bears, and I've always felt privileged to share their space. OK, the camp-rummaging bears were more annoying than exotic. I'm glad I haven't had an encounter as close or scary as Bug's. If you haven't seen it, rent the film Grizzly Man. It is an interesting story and film that is well done in that it lets you draw your own conclusions about the content.

We were hiking up the Far Side trail this afternoon when we came upon a large black bear in the middle of the trail just a 100yds from the road. He stared. We stared. He darted down the slope toward the river. I'd never seen a bear on the I90 corridor before. I'm glad to know they're out there. I've seen plenty in the Olympics and around Stehekin but not many elsewhere. When do they generally come out of their dens? Where have you seen them? Have any of you seen a grizzly in WA? I've only seen those guys in AK and Banff/Jasper.

I was up there this afternoon and saw a good-sized black bear on the trail to the Far Side. He was very handsome. We stared at each other then he bounded downslope toward the river. No pics. This was the first time I've seen a bear on the I90 corridor. I'm glad to know they are out there. There was snow in the shadows. Gritscone looked very wet, but I don't see the appeal of that thing anyway. Interstate and Eastern block were pretty dry. We're working on a new crag in that area that has several multipitch lines and even some trad pitches (5.7ish to 5.10+). Send PM if interested in a tour sometime.

Porter for Matt for hosting the event. to the rest of you for coming.

Many crags at 32 and 38 have seepage issues that last after rains. So if it rains 3 days in a row and you go out on the first sunny day many crags may be dripping wet, but some will be dry. I won't try to suggest a list. The overhanging sections of WWI at 32 are reliably dry and reliably hard, or moderate if you are Mike Layton.

I met a bunch of Alaskans from Fairbanks when I moved here. One has become a close friend. Between the eternal night in winter and eternal sunshine in summer they definitely dance to the beat of a different drummer. They are all sincere and loyal, if a bit twisted in their own ways. Passive non-aggressive. All of them could go for weeks or months with no communication with you but when you see them again it's like you were never apart. And yes, they have balls. ........ Last weekend I was in Dallas for a wedding. It was a gorgeous spring day and I went for a run in the arboretum. I was the only person running in the arboretum, including small children, and I half expected the cops to chase me down to see if I had snatched someone's purse. The arboretum was a bit like a british garden: manmade features crammed with orderly rows of plants to leave no doubt that humans are all-important and nature must bow to us. I saw one couple with their expensive camera snapping pics of a squirrel eating trash. Look honey, wildlife! Spring was lovely, but it's hot and humid in the summer, cold in the winter, interlaced with a sprawl of freeways and corporate office buildings, and flat in every direction. The "lake" was a brown mud pit with a bike trail around it. I saw lots of people biking, but the number of people who exercise regularly, as determined by muscle tone in spandex, was less than 5%, and these are the ones who actually got out on their bikes! Supersized people in a supersized state. No thank you. ........... My mom's family is from Kansas and Illinois. Them folks are white bread and smoke like you would not believe. I remember a wedding reception years ago with a man who'd had throat cancer. He was still addicted so he smoked through his stoma. Now that's an image to show your kids when they pick up a cigarette. ........... My only beef with PNW is that people feel the need to hold hands and talk about their feelings and sing Kumbaya before making a decision. If you do go and make a decision without taking those steps you risk being labeled "autocratic", which is like getting branded with the scarlet letter.

Take any pictures?

My son is 4 and we're ready to start rock climbing a bit this summer. I'm looking for shoes and a harness as a start. 1 - What worked/didn't work for you? 2 - Got any old gear to sell/swap? 3 - If yes to #2, are you going to the CC picnic tomorrow? Thanks, R

I'd add the E ridge direct to Forbidden. It's very casual with only a move or two of 5.8, and it is a stunning setting. Can be done in a day frmo the car, has pretty low objective dangers and no glacier travel reqd.

I think you mean Neat AND Cool.

Anyone got a child harness/chest harness for a 4yr old to bring to the swap? I might even swap for cash! R

If you and your family weren't born in the NW please feel free to go back to wherever the fuck it is you're actually from if you don't like it here. Nice try. I actually live in the house behind yours have my eye on you. By the way, you might want to move that hide-a-key. It's just too obvious.