Rad

who here has been blown off by a geek!?? what an unfair representation! I think the problem is that Mr. Dunne couldn't find a geek to blow him off...

Don't worry you sensitive types. I am not maligning your shining white character. Just wondering if CC is an outlet for any of those polite types mentioned in the article. For the record, I love it here and have not had trouble making friends. I generally don't hang out with co-workers and drink beer after work, so if that doesn't happen it's not a loss. I've always found the best way to make friends is to do something you're passionate about with other people - like play ultimate or climb. I did live in Boston, where drivers are notoriously aggressive, and adapted to that. Here, when everyone stops at a 4-way intersection and waves at each other I put my foot on the accelerator and zoom through! Works for me. Works for them.

I've had several people complain that Northwest people can be shallow and polite in person, keeping their true feelings and more controversial opinions to themselves. The same people suggest that East Coasters, where I'm from, are more likely to tell you when they disagree with you and let it all hang out. Perhaps CC works for y'all because you can vent your more volatile and odiferous parts here. Do you think CC would have the same vibe in other places? Oh, and don't hold your true feelings back because you're probably posting anonymously anyway...

What's the difference between a lawyer and a prostitute? The prostitute will stop screwing you when you're dead. How many lawyers does it take to shingle a roof? Depends on how thin you slice them.

but this time HUCK the ice steps so you can get a descent that REALLY counts.

You bring your weiners. I'll bring my booty nuts and a few other treats to swap.

Jared, Unless you're doing pennance for some heinous deeds, carrying a 45lb pack into the Pickets is an exercise in masochism. Listen to Wayne. He's been many times. Check out the random tips thread in the main forum for lots of good ideas about how to travel lighter. Challenger is still on my list, but I understand the rock section is quite easy. Save weight for that by climbing the 5.7 in your regular boots/shoes, bring a set of stoppers, a couple of hexes, a few slings and biners, and a light rope. You could probably leave the rock shoes, chalk!!, full rack, and fat rope at home.

I've never used an offset cam, but I have certainly placed regular cams in positions where one or two of the lobes are more expanded or contracted than the others. I suspect most trad climbers here have as well. This might be near a divot, irregularity, or a protruding crystal. I don't believe this compromises the strength of the unit, provided the lobes are not tipped out or over-cammed. One thing I make sure is that the piece is set reasonably well so that it is oriented properly for a fall and won't walk anywhere easily as I climb past it. A walk to a more narrow fissure could make it very hard to clean, and a walk to a wider part could make it unsafe. It sounds like offsets do have uses, but I've done just fine without one for years. I'd suggest making sure you have at least a complete set of regular cams first.

Please send him a pm and ask. You can send him this: ..................... Dear Mr Fantasy, Play us tune, something to make us all happy. Do anything, take us out of this gloom, Sing a song, play guitar, make it snappy. You are the one who can make us all laugh, But doing that you break out in tears. Please don't be sad, if it was a straight mind you had, We wouldn't have known you all these years. (Traffic, though many have covered it)

I've never been much for biking because my skinny arse hurts after 30-45 minutes. Maybe I never sat on the right seat. I agree on the commuting comment. When I walked 1 mile each way to the subway in Boston and walked up and down 4 flts of stairs several times each day at work that gave me a good base fitness level. Now I have to drive the kids to and from daycare as part of my commute and I can't indulge in the same way. I agree with the comment that one usually runs harder in races than in a test. However, the more experience you have the better able you are to push yourself in any setting. I raced x-country when younger and have done only a few races in the past years. Someone suggested above that 5k or 10k are similar in difficulty. I disagree. The goal is to arrive at the finish with nothing left in the gas tank. Otherwise you didn't push yourself. To do that, you run at a faster pace for the shorter distance. For me, in two races I did two years ago, running 5k in 19 minutes felt way harder than running 10k in 40 minutes, even though it's only 5% faster. Perhaps because it's deeper in my red zone (closer to the AT?). Finally, running is the cheapest sport of all mentioned above, and it's also the one where you are least likely to suffer a major injury if you have warmed up properly.

Agreed. So please post a mormon monobrow monodoight first descent TR so we can laugh and lift our spirits!

In the Pickets, you will have a lot of x-country travel and will find yourself side-hilling on heather, scrambling on loose talus, and thrashing in the brush where you can't see your feet. For all of these, stiff is good. Others have suggested stiffer boots will do better in hard snow or ice. I agree. The only place I can see soft shoes being nicer is if you have a long section ON A WELL-MAINTAINED TRAIL. If I were to come in from the North on the trail, I might wear tennis shoes to the end of the trail, stash the shoes in a plastic bag under a large rock nearby, and switch into boots for x-country travel. The boots will rock on the snow and x-country areas. On your return, the running shoes will feel like heaven for the last miles on the trail back to your beer. Enjoy!

Looks like that buttress line right of the Berdinka's Bellingham Big Wall in the Twin Sisters/Green River area. Pretty spot. I'd bet donuts on it if I were a cop.

Yes. I've walked over and scrambled to the top of one or two boulders there both times I went up Constance. There is one that is surely the largest boulder I've ever seen. It is about 100ish feet long, 80ish feet wide, and 60ish feet tall. The South end is a 20 degree overhanging rainbow-colored cobbled face that might be 50 feet wide and 70 feet tall/long. IS THIS A KING LINE?!? This gigantic boulder is visible from the trail on your right about 2/3rd of the way to the lake just where the trail flattens and the forest opens up briefly. Check it out and snap some pics for us. Some moss on the tops of these boulders is almost two feet deep. Definitely a cool spot.

Hey, don't you work at UW? Scientist or some shizzle? Wanna give me a definition for "shock load" there sport? I can't seem to find it in my fizix book. How much force you think he applied to that bolt? I'd wager it's on the order of 5kN. Certainly not going to damage the bolt. I'm certainly not a fizixist. You could be right. It certainly helps he was a skinny 11yo kid and not a big dude like in that video...

Disturbing. First is big, second is nasty: from bike to quad in a single jump.

No mouth-to-mouth required in new CPR rules. ............. A close friend of mine did CPR, with breathing, on a drowning victim for 45 minutes until paramedics arrived. The man never revived. It was a disturbing experience, with unearthly gurgling sounds from dead lungs and a crowd of family and relatives looking on. It could easily have been me in his shoes given the situation near the camp where we were working. ............. Article below: Just press on the chest of adult victims till help arrives, heart group urges. In a major change, the American Heart Association said Monday that hands-only CPR — rapid, deep presses on the victim’s chest until help arrives — works just as well as standard CPR for sudden cardiac arrest in adults. Experts hope bystanders will now be more willing to jump in and help if they see someone suddenly collapse. Hands-only CPR is simpler and easier to remember and removes a big barrier for people skittish about the mouth-to-mouth breathing. “You only have to do two things. Call 911 and push hard and fast on the middle of the person’s chest,” said Dr. Michael Sayre, an emergency medicine professor at Ohio State University who headed the committee that made the recommendation. Hands-only CPR calls for uninterrupted chest presses — 100 a minute — until paramedics take over or an automated external defibrillator is available to restore a normal heart rhythm. This action should be taken only for adults who unexpectedly collapse, stop breathing and are unresponsive. The odds are that the person is having cardiac arrest — the heart suddenly stops — which can occur after a heart attack or be caused by other heart problems. In such a case, the victim still has ample air in the lungs and blood and compressions keep blood flowing to the brain, heart and other organs. A child who collapses is more likely to primarily have breathing problems — and in that case, mouth-to-mouth breathing should be used. That also applies to adults who suffer lack of oxygen from a near-drowning, drug overdose, or carbon monoxide poisoning. In these cases, people need mouth-to-mouth to get air into their lungs and bloodstream. 'Better than nothing' But in either case, “Something is better than nothing,” Sayre said. The CPR guidelines had been inching toward compression-only. The last update, in 2005, put more emphasis on chest pushes by alternating 30 presses with two quick breaths; those “unable or unwilling” to do the breaths could do presses alone. Now the heart association has given equal standing to hands-only CPR. Those who have been trained in traditional cardiopulmonary resuscitation can still opt to use it. Hands-only CPR The American Heart Association says bystanders who witness an adult's* sudden cardiac arrest can opt to perform hands-only CPR and skip mouth-to-mouth breathing. If someone collapses, stops normal breathing and is unresponsive to shaking: First, have someone call 911, or call yourself. Put the victim on the floor, face up. Put one hand on top of the other in the middle of the victim's chest. Push hard and fast, 100 presses a minute. If there's another bystander, take turns. Continue until paramedics take over. Use an automated external defibrillator if available. * Children and drowning victims still need mouth-to-mouth. Source: University of Arizona Sarver Heart Center Sayre said the association took the unusual step of making the changes now — the next update wasn’t due until 2010 — because three studies last year showed hands-only was as good as traditional CPR. Hands-only will be added to CPR training. An estimated 310,000 Americans die each year of cardiac arrest. Only about 6 percent of those who are stricken outside a hospital survive, although rates vary by location. People who quickly get hands-only CPR while awaiting medical treatment have double or triple the chance of surviving. But less than a third of victims get this essential help. Dr. Gordon Ewy, who’s been pushing for hands-only CPR for 15 years, said he was “dancing in the streets” over the heart association’s change even though he doesn’t think it goes far enough. Ewy (pronounced AY-vee) is director of the University of Arizona Sarver Heart Center in Tucson, where the compression-only technique was pioneered. Ewy said there’s no point to giving early breaths in the case of sudden cardiac arrest, and it takes too long to stop compressions to give two breaths — 16 seconds for the average person. He noted that victims often gasp periodically anyway, drawing in a little air on their own. Anonymous surveys show that people are reluctant to do mouth-to-mouth, Ewy said, partly because of fear of infections. “When people are honest, they’re not going to do it,” he said. “It’s not only the yuck factor.” In recent years, emergency service dispatchers have been coaching callers in hands-only CPR rather than telling them how to alternate breaths and compressions. Easier and more reliable “They love it. It’s less complicated and the outcomes are better,” said Dallas emergency medical services chief Dr. Paul Pepe, who also chairs emergency medicine at the University of Texas Southwestern Medical Center. One person who’s been spreading the word about hands-only CPR is Temecula, Calif., chiropractor Jared Hjelmstad, who helped save the life of a fellow health club member in Southern California Hjelmstad, 40, had read about it in a medical journal and used it on Garth Goodall, who collapsed while working out at their gym in February. Hjelmstad’s 15-year-old son Josh called 911 in the meantime. Hjelmstad said he pumped on Goodall’s chest for more than 12 minutes — encouraged by Goodall’s intermittent gasps — until paramedics arrived. He was thrilled to find out the next day that Goodall had survived. On Sunday, he visited Goodall in the hospital where he is recovering from triple bypass surgery. “After this whole thing happened, I was on cloud nine,” said Hjelmstad. “I was just fortunate enough to be there.” Goodall, a 49-year-old construction contractor, said he had been healthy and fit before the collapse, and there’d been no hint that he had clogged heart arteries. “I was lucky,” he said. Had the situation been reversed, “I wouldn’t have known what to do.” “It’s a second lease on life,” he added.

So you climb 13d or harder and the answer to my second question is yes?

I don't know the route so I don't understand. Did you land in water? If so, Did you intentionally shock-load a bolt or other fixed gear for fun? If so,

Could be worse, could be better. Article ................... How to rock your world By Tina Potterf Special to The Seattle Times Ask them why they do it — latch on to the angular edges and curves of slabs of rock on perilously high mountain walls — and climbers may liken it to something transcendental. Or maybe it's the way climbing tests muscles and stamina, or how it goads willpower. For rock climbers, reaching new heights is both an objective and a metaphor for a sport that requires a certain level of athleticism and challenges its followers to confront trepidation to achieve the ultimate adrenaline rush. Whether climbing on an indoor rock wall or ascending the side of a mountain, there's a profound sense of satisfaction, peppered at times with the frustrations that also come with climbing. Snohomish County can be a dream for climbers, with scenic spots off Highway 2 and the Mountain Loop Highway and near Index and Darrington that are well-traveled by seasoned rock climbers. As the weather improves and interest in outdoor recreation heats up, more people may try climbing for the first time. For newcomers, taking an introductory course to acquire the fundamentals is highly recommended, whether it's in climbing with a rope and belayer — known as top-roping — or bouldering, lower-to-the-ground climbing without rope. Climbing at a rock gym or as part of a group outing, such as those offered by The Everett Mountaineers, can provide a solid introduction to climbing, with lessons on techniques, necessary equipment and, above all, safety. One of the better-known indoor climbing gyms is Vertical World in downtown Everett. The gym offers a variety of rock walls with varying heights and degrees of difficulty. Established climbers encourage first-timers to start indoors because it provides a controlled setting and opportunities to learn from experienced peers and instructors. At Vertical World, visitors can learn about belaying — a belayer is the person who is essentially a spotter on the ground, letting out and taking in rope for the climber — and how to best use their legs for maximum benefit and to avoid arm fatigue. They also can talk with those in the know and get the scoop on the best places to climb and areas to avoid. Another advantage: When you fall from a wall inside a gym, you land on padding and mats that have the cushioning springiness of a bed of marshmallows. The walls themselves, while a far cry from the granite, limestone and andesite rock of the outdoors, allow climbers to push ahead at a comfortable level — and under the watchful eye of a skilled climber. The highest climbing walls at Vertical World, marked with shoe smudges and strips of colored masking tape that designate difficulty level, are upward of 30 feet. Instructor Stella Moll-Nevins teaches a basic climbing course that covers the requisite gear to get started. For $160, climbers can purchase a harness, carabiner, good climbing shoes, chalk bag and chalk, which is used on the hands for a better grip. Moll-Nevins, of Whidbey Island, knows the feeling of successfully completing that first climb. For her, it was climbing Mount Erie in Anacortes. "It was awesome. I felt alive," Moll-Nevins said. "When you get that first rush of adrenaline, you don't want to let it go." The chance to push one's limits while getting a good workout lured Riley Sullivan, of Everett. Sullivan, 19, has been climbing since October and in that time has come to appreciate both the camaraderie and the intensity. Climbing keeps his body "cut," he said, and rivals what he could achieve in a typical workout. "It's really addicting," said Sullivan, who got his start with an indoor class and now climbs five to six times a week. "It's most rewarding," he said, "when you are halfway up the wall and you don't know if you are going to make it — and then you do." Marysville resident Henry Leap hones his climbing skills through weekly visits to indoor gyms. A member of The Everett Mountaineers, Leap has been climbing for three years and is driven by the mental and physical challenges. After his first climb near Leavenworth, Chelan County, he said he was hooked. "It's like you are in the air," said Leap, who climbs three times a week. "It's so exciting. You're like a kid at a water park." Whether new to the sport or devoted veterans, rock climbers are trained on safety above all else. As with many sports, there are inherent risks. "Rock climbing, like any extreme activity, is dangerous, but if you learn how to do it properly it is no more dangerous than football or any other sport," said Tyson Schoene, a longtime climber and head coach for the Vertical World gyms. Tony Tsuboi, of The Everett Mountaineers, urges beginners to educate themselves before attempting an outdoor climb. While Darrington, Index and the Skykomish Valley score high marks in the sport, those locales are not for casual or uninitiated climbers because of the terrain and potential for rock falls. The Everett Mountaineers offers introduction-to-climbing courses "specifically targeted to indoor-gym climbers who are seeking to transition to outdoor rock climbing at nearby crags," he said. For those who want to be at one with nature, another option is customized climbs available through Cascade Adventure Guides. Director Peter Zyniewicz has climbed throughout the U.S. and abroad, and closer to home he likes to take climbers to Mount Erie. It's a great place for beginners, he said, and "the views are spectacular." Interest in rock climbing among young people appears to be strong, if a recent climbing competition in Everett was any indication. Dozens of youths were top-roping and bouldering with the best of them. The benefits of climbing for youth and adults alike go beyond the physical, said Schoene, a climber since the age of 6 who now trains children and teens for national and international competitions. "More than anything, it is mental," he said. "For the kids, it allows them to branch out and do things they normally wouldn't do. It opens doors for them." As a regional coordinator for USA Climbing in the Pacific Northwest, Denise Nerison assists at many youth climbing competitions and praises the sport's benefits. Rock climbing, she said, is akin to mastering a math problem: It requires mental acuity and focus. Her son Alex, a freshman at Henry M. Jackson High School, has been climbing for seven years. Competitively, he has taken many top honors, including a recent 10th place in a national bouldering contest. "Climbing keeps you grounded," said Schoene. "Even when you are really high up on a wall." Although rock climbing is a physical sport, nearly anyone can give it a try, said Zyniewicz, of Cascade Adventure Guides. "If it is cleared by your doctor, and you can go up and down stairs, you can do some rock climbing." Copyright © 2008 The Seattle Times Company

Sounds obvious, but photographs can be useful aids in wilderness navigation. On an overcast trip in the South Pickets, I once took a photo of the steep gully we planned to ascend in darkness during a momentary break in the clouds at sunset. By consulting the image on my camera the next night, we navigated past key snow patches and rock bands to find the right ascent route the next night/morning. Similarly, digital photos can help you ascend or descend complex terrain in poor visibility without major backtracking or deadends. These photos could come from your own camera or from ones pulled from CC or guides or other sources. They do, however, reduce the adventure in your venture, just like detailed beta would, so find the balance you need.

Any other tricks for improving the efficiency of multiple raps? Last year my partner and I spent almost as much time rapping Infinite bolts as we did climbing the darn thing!

Yep. I look at water sources on the map and carry as litle possible, sometimes I'll drink my fill and not carry any water at all knowing it will be available at a river a few miles down the trail. Obviously, one needs to decide how much emergency/contingency water one feels comfortable having.

Put duct tape on your heel or any other hot spot (keep your mind out of the gutter) to keep it from turning into a blister. Aluminum foil makes a great heat exchanger and pot lid that is much lighter and better than anything commercially available. For longer trips you may need to bring extra as it will tear with multiple uses. Space-blanket-like bivy sacks are super-light emergency gear for alpine outings, but they tear easily on rocks and you probably can't expect to get more than one night of use out of one. Also, they are completely water-proof and non-breathable, which is both a pro and a con. Use a chemical hand-warmer plus rubber band to keep batteries (cell phone, camera) functional in very cold conditions (from a friend last week). Put snow on black garbage bags to melt snow for water at basecamp while you're away during the day on your summit bid (saw that in a previous CC post). Climb naked at night to save weight (Mark Twight). Bring blackberry to surf CC for anchor clipping advice when you're at the chains on your favorite exit 38 project!

My son is 4 and is ready to try - I'm not in a hurry as I just want him to have fun. Do y'all use chest harnesses on your kids? Their hips are so slim I'd worry about them falling out of harnesses in the event of flipping over, which would be scary anyway. Thanks.