Rad

Mythos, You have a habit of posting nasty wound pictures on the site. Is this a fetish of yours? Hope to see you on the crags this spring/summer! Rad

MattP, Clip your helmet on the outside of your pack like the rest of us mortals. Then you won't be pinching it sideways in ways it was not designed to resist....and don't go tumbling down gullys! Side note: anyone been on a motorcycle in Indonesia or elsewhere? Those helmets are eggshells that are no better than a thin layer of SPF 100 plastic. R

"I treat my gear like my life depended on it" Words to live by....

You didn't mention what grade or what time of year (raptor closures affect many cliffs in spring/early summer). I love that park! Beautiful in springtime. A few fun climbs spring to mind: N twin something (slab near reservoir) 5.6 Lost Horizon 5.8 Ordeal 5.8 Wet Kiss 5.9 Coyote Ugly 5.9 Lava Falls 5.9 Truama 5.9 Jorgie's crack 10a Shake and Bake 10a The Hatchet 10a Dance on a Hot Volcano 10b Ali Baba 10b Post orgasmic depression 10d Buffalo Soldier 10d Pistol Whipped 10d Sunwheel 11a The Verdict 11a/b Have fun! You'll encounter some loose rock on less traveled routes. Don't let it deter you as it can help you to climb more delicately and efficiently.

I agree with Jens. Simul-climbing is not for newbies. There are a lot of subtle alpine skills (routefinding, ropedrag management, avoiding causing rockfall) that only come by logging miles on rock. The consequences for falling while simuling are much higher than regular leading but still lower than free-soloing.

Yep, helmet is a good idea. Ben, pictured above, is now 4! He loves all manner of helmets (fireman, snowboard (mine), bicycle, and makeshift ones of his own creation). I think he's almost ready to climb, but we're not in any real hurry.

Cool. Thanks for posting. My house is in the last photo!

I have no trouble napping at the crag, particularly when Gene is leading! (yawn) Remember that nasty Smith accident thread (someone will find it for me) where dad was leading and took a fall and mom didn't catch him because she was chasing the kids around the base of the crag? That was bad. My take-home message was that it's a bad idea to have the belayer doubling as caregiver for a small child. In both cases you need to be able to drop what you're doing and devote 100%. If you don't bad stuff happens. (insert thundercloud emoticon) That said, here's Ben's first crag nap (on Mambo Jambo):

60m + 60m = a lot of spaghetti to snarl at belays! Trog and I did infinite bolts on 2 ropes. We spent half the day flaking ropes, it seemed. Next time I would climb on a single rope and carry a tag line in a pack for the rapping.

Should be good fun: comp web page Join us for the University of Washington’s first Intercollegiate Bouldering Competition on Saturday, February 23rd! The “Rain City Send” is a chance for students, faculty, and staff of all Pacific Northwest colleges and universities to test their climbing skills against others or simply enjoy some friendly competition. Who: College students, faculty and staff of any Pacific Northwest university of college. When: Saturday, February 23rd, 12:30pm - 6:00pm Head on over to the Rain City Send page for more event details and registration information! Hurry to ensure that you receive a sweet T-shirt!

Sweet! Congrats. "On January 22, in perfect weather but feeling unusually tired, likely due to carbon monoxide poisoning inside their bivy sack, they continued over Herron and Egger to reach Cerro Torre." Yep, that's usually what I do when I'm feeling 'unusually tired'.

Two nuns were biking down a cobblestone street. One turns to the other and says, . . . . I've never come this way before.

too much training = no period.

Weekend, are you on the wagon? The 12 step program? Whazzup?

Maybe someone mentioned this already, but this morning around 7:20am NPR ran a 30 second note about how we may be headed for record snow levels this year. On the plus side, they noted, is more water for drinking and hydro power and salmon. The downside has been increased avalanche hazards. They suggested staying in bounds at ski resorts, getting some avalanche training before heading into the backcountry, and avoiding steep open slopes if you must go. I'm not remembering the details as my brain was only operating at 30% power, but it seemed short and sensible.

Climb some cool stuff with great partners. Perhaps my first sport 5.12a. Metamorphosis FA (developed last fall but not completed due to rain). And hopefully this in the spring: Maybe something like this in the late summer:

Sit on Santa's lap and ask sweetly.

Other factors: Hood is close to a major metro area with quick access for the local fleet of media helicopters. The mtn is an iconic image that many americans know. Neither is true for Crystal.

After a few bonks on really long days I learned I need to eat throughout the day. Like a clif bar or more every hour. I've had no more bonks. Choose something with a mix of fat, protein and sugar for long, medium, and near-term energy. Hydration, including electrolyte replacement, is key too.

Is someone on the sausage thing for 08? How about earlier this year - like late January or early February? I'd be glad to help. It's too wet to climb rock, to dry to snowboard, and I need inspiration to get strong for next season so bring on the stoke! ps. Have I broken some rule of quantum mechanics by quoting myself? Any minute now I'll collide with my own antimatter and be obliterated.

Excellent adventure! Thanks for posting.

Amen.

I completed a few new lines last year, and the best one was only ready for leading in September. In this land of moss and choss, route development can be hard work. It took many days, spread over nearly a whole summer, to scope, rap, clean, TR to find the best line, and work out a way to protect it with a combination of gear and bolts. It's got great climbing in a stunning position within an hour of Seattle. Alas, I didn't get an opportunity to try to send this route before the rain started dumping so it will have to wait until spring. Is it mine, mine, mine and you can't try it until I give you permission? I think not. Should I draw you a map so you can make the FA before I get a crack at it? I think not. Will I be heart-broken if I fail on a few redpoint attempts and one of my climbing partners sends it first? I think not. Should that person be listed as the FA and my contribution not be recognized? I think not. Converting a vision into something people will climb, enjoy, and find inspiring for years to come is what I strive to achieve in developing new routes. The FA is less important, in my view than the creation.

Amen. I used to think improving was mainly about getting stronger, with some mental training on the side. I've since come around to the idea that the greatest gains come from mental training (even if only to gain the discipline to stick with your chosed workout scheme).

Performance Rock Climbing - Goddard and Neumann.