Rad

Hey, don't you work at UW? Scientist or some shizzle? Wanna give me a definition for "shock load" there sport? I can't seem to find it in my fizix book. How much force you think he applied to that bolt? I'd wager it's on the order of 5kN. Certainly not going to damage the bolt. I'm certainly not a fizixist. You could be right. It certainly helps he was a skinny 11yo kid and not a big dude like in that video...

Disturbing. First is big, second is nasty: from bike to quad in a single jump.

No mouth-to-mouth required in new CPR rules. ............. A close friend of mine did CPR, with breathing, on a drowning victim for 45 minutes until paramedics arrived. The man never revived. It was a disturbing experience, with unearthly gurgling sounds from dead lungs and a crowd of family and relatives looking on. It could easily have been me in his shoes given the situation near the camp where we were working. ............. Article below: Just press on the chest of adult victims till help arrives, heart group urges. In a major change, the American Heart Association said Monday that hands-only CPR — rapid, deep presses on the victim’s chest until help arrives — works just as well as standard CPR for sudden cardiac arrest in adults. Experts hope bystanders will now be more willing to jump in and help if they see someone suddenly collapse. Hands-only CPR is simpler and easier to remember and removes a big barrier for people skittish about the mouth-to-mouth breathing. “You only have to do two things. Call 911 and push hard and fast on the middle of the person’s chest,” said Dr. Michael Sayre, an emergency medicine professor at Ohio State University who headed the committee that made the recommendation. Hands-only CPR calls for uninterrupted chest presses — 100 a minute — until paramedics take over or an automated external defibrillator is available to restore a normal heart rhythm. This action should be taken only for adults who unexpectedly collapse, stop breathing and are unresponsive. The odds are that the person is having cardiac arrest — the heart suddenly stops — which can occur after a heart attack or be caused by other heart problems. In such a case, the victim still has ample air in the lungs and blood and compressions keep blood flowing to the brain, heart and other organs. A child who collapses is more likely to primarily have breathing problems — and in that case, mouth-to-mouth breathing should be used. That also applies to adults who suffer lack of oxygen from a near-drowning, drug overdose, or carbon monoxide poisoning. In these cases, people need mouth-to-mouth to get air into their lungs and bloodstream. 'Better than nothing' But in either case, “Something is better than nothing,” Sayre said. The CPR guidelines had been inching toward compression-only. The last update, in 2005, put more emphasis on chest pushes by alternating 30 presses with two quick breaths; those “unable or unwilling” to do the breaths could do presses alone. Now the heart association has given equal standing to hands-only CPR. Those who have been trained in traditional cardiopulmonary resuscitation can still opt to use it. Hands-only CPR The American Heart Association says bystanders who witness an adult's* sudden cardiac arrest can opt to perform hands-only CPR and skip mouth-to-mouth breathing. If someone collapses, stops normal breathing and is unresponsive to shaking: First, have someone call 911, or call yourself. Put the victim on the floor, face up. Put one hand on top of the other in the middle of the victim's chest. Push hard and fast, 100 presses a minute. If there's another bystander, take turns. Continue until paramedics take over. Use an automated external defibrillator if available. * Children and drowning victims still need mouth-to-mouth. Source: University of Arizona Sarver Heart Center Sayre said the association took the unusual step of making the changes now — the next update wasn’t due until 2010 — because three studies last year showed hands-only was as good as traditional CPR. Hands-only will be added to CPR training. An estimated 310,000 Americans die each year of cardiac arrest. Only about 6 percent of those who are stricken outside a hospital survive, although rates vary by location. People who quickly get hands-only CPR while awaiting medical treatment have double or triple the chance of surviving. But less than a third of victims get this essential help. Dr. Gordon Ewy, who’s been pushing for hands-only CPR for 15 years, said he was “dancing in the streets” over the heart association’s change even though he doesn’t think it goes far enough. Ewy (pronounced AY-vee) is director of the University of Arizona Sarver Heart Center in Tucson, where the compression-only technique was pioneered. Ewy said there’s no point to giving early breaths in the case of sudden cardiac arrest, and it takes too long to stop compressions to give two breaths — 16 seconds for the average person. He noted that victims often gasp periodically anyway, drawing in a little air on their own. Anonymous surveys show that people are reluctant to do mouth-to-mouth, Ewy said, partly because of fear of infections. “When people are honest, they’re not going to do it,” he said. “It’s not only the yuck factor.” In recent years, emergency service dispatchers have been coaching callers in hands-only CPR rather than telling them how to alternate breaths and compressions. Easier and more reliable “They love it. It’s less complicated and the outcomes are better,” said Dallas emergency medical services chief Dr. Paul Pepe, who also chairs emergency medicine at the University of Texas Southwestern Medical Center. One person who’s been spreading the word about hands-only CPR is Temecula, Calif., chiropractor Jared Hjelmstad, who helped save the life of a fellow health club member in Southern California Hjelmstad, 40, had read about it in a medical journal and used it on Garth Goodall, who collapsed while working out at their gym in February. Hjelmstad’s 15-year-old son Josh called 911 in the meantime. Hjelmstad said he pumped on Goodall’s chest for more than 12 minutes — encouraged by Goodall’s intermittent gasps — until paramedics arrived. He was thrilled to find out the next day that Goodall had survived. On Sunday, he visited Goodall in the hospital where he is recovering from triple bypass surgery. “After this whole thing happened, I was on cloud nine,” said Hjelmstad. “I was just fortunate enough to be there.” Goodall, a 49-year-old construction contractor, said he had been healthy and fit before the collapse, and there’d been no hint that he had clogged heart arteries. “I was lucky,” he said. Had the situation been reversed, “I wouldn’t have known what to do.” “It’s a second lease on life,” he added.

So you climb 13d or harder and the answer to my second question is yes?

I don't know the route so I don't understand. Did you land in water? If so, Did you intentionally shock-load a bolt or other fixed gear for fun? If so,

Could be worse, could be better. Article ................... How to rock your world By Tina Potterf Special to The Seattle Times Ask them why they do it — latch on to the angular edges and curves of slabs of rock on perilously high mountain walls — and climbers may liken it to something transcendental. Or maybe it's the way climbing tests muscles and stamina, or how it goads willpower. For rock climbers, reaching new heights is both an objective and a metaphor for a sport that requires a certain level of athleticism and challenges its followers to confront trepidation to achieve the ultimate adrenaline rush. Whether climbing on an indoor rock wall or ascending the side of a mountain, there's a profound sense of satisfaction, peppered at times with the frustrations that also come with climbing. Snohomish County can be a dream for climbers, with scenic spots off Highway 2 and the Mountain Loop Highway and near Index and Darrington that are well-traveled by seasoned rock climbers. As the weather improves and interest in outdoor recreation heats up, more people may try climbing for the first time. For newcomers, taking an introductory course to acquire the fundamentals is highly recommended, whether it's in climbing with a rope and belayer — known as top-roping — or bouldering, lower-to-the-ground climbing without rope. Climbing at a rock gym or as part of a group outing, such as those offered by The Everett Mountaineers, can provide a solid introduction to climbing, with lessons on techniques, necessary equipment and, above all, safety. One of the better-known indoor climbing gyms is Vertical World in downtown Everett. The gym offers a variety of rock walls with varying heights and degrees of difficulty. Established climbers encourage first-timers to start indoors because it provides a controlled setting and opportunities to learn from experienced peers and instructors. At Vertical World, visitors can learn about belaying — a belayer is the person who is essentially a spotter on the ground, letting out and taking in rope for the climber — and how to best use their legs for maximum benefit and to avoid arm fatigue. They also can talk with those in the know and get the scoop on the best places to climb and areas to avoid. Another advantage: When you fall from a wall inside a gym, you land on padding and mats that have the cushioning springiness of a bed of marshmallows. The walls themselves, while a far cry from the granite, limestone and andesite rock of the outdoors, allow climbers to push ahead at a comfortable level — and under the watchful eye of a skilled climber. The highest climbing walls at Vertical World, marked with shoe smudges and strips of colored masking tape that designate difficulty level, are upward of 30 feet. Instructor Stella Moll-Nevins teaches a basic climbing course that covers the requisite gear to get started. For $160, climbers can purchase a harness, carabiner, good climbing shoes, chalk bag and chalk, which is used on the hands for a better grip. Moll-Nevins, of Whidbey Island, knows the feeling of successfully completing that first climb. For her, it was climbing Mount Erie in Anacortes. "It was awesome. I felt alive," Moll-Nevins said. "When you get that first rush of adrenaline, you don't want to let it go." The chance to push one's limits while getting a good workout lured Riley Sullivan, of Everett. Sullivan, 19, has been climbing since October and in that time has come to appreciate both the camaraderie and the intensity. Climbing keeps his body "cut," he said, and rivals what he could achieve in a typical workout. "It's really addicting," said Sullivan, who got his start with an indoor class and now climbs five to six times a week. "It's most rewarding," he said, "when you are halfway up the wall and you don't know if you are going to make it — and then you do." Marysville resident Henry Leap hones his climbing skills through weekly visits to indoor gyms. A member of The Everett Mountaineers, Leap has been climbing for three years and is driven by the mental and physical challenges. After his first climb near Leavenworth, Chelan County, he said he was hooked. "It's like you are in the air," said Leap, who climbs three times a week. "It's so exciting. You're like a kid at a water park." Whether new to the sport or devoted veterans, rock climbers are trained on safety above all else. As with many sports, there are inherent risks. "Rock climbing, like any extreme activity, is dangerous, but if you learn how to do it properly it is no more dangerous than football or any other sport," said Tyson Schoene, a longtime climber and head coach for the Vertical World gyms. Tony Tsuboi, of The Everett Mountaineers, urges beginners to educate themselves before attempting an outdoor climb. While Darrington, Index and the Skykomish Valley score high marks in the sport, those locales are not for casual or uninitiated climbers because of the terrain and potential for rock falls. The Everett Mountaineers offers introduction-to-climbing courses "specifically targeted to indoor-gym climbers who are seeking to transition to outdoor rock climbing at nearby crags," he said. For those who want to be at one with nature, another option is customized climbs available through Cascade Adventure Guides. Director Peter Zyniewicz has climbed throughout the U.S. and abroad, and closer to home he likes to take climbers to Mount Erie. It's a great place for beginners, he said, and "the views are spectacular." Interest in rock climbing among young people appears to be strong, if a recent climbing competition in Everett was any indication. Dozens of youths were top-roping and bouldering with the best of them. The benefits of climbing for youth and adults alike go beyond the physical, said Schoene, a climber since the age of 6 who now trains children and teens for national and international competitions. "More than anything, it is mental," he said. "For the kids, it allows them to branch out and do things they normally wouldn't do. It opens doors for them." As a regional coordinator for USA Climbing in the Pacific Northwest, Denise Nerison assists at many youth climbing competitions and praises the sport's benefits. Rock climbing, she said, is akin to mastering a math problem: It requires mental acuity and focus. Her son Alex, a freshman at Henry M. Jackson High School, has been climbing for seven years. Competitively, he has taken many top honors, including a recent 10th place in a national bouldering contest. "Climbing keeps you grounded," said Schoene. "Even when you are really high up on a wall." Although rock climbing is a physical sport, nearly anyone can give it a try, said Zyniewicz, of Cascade Adventure Guides. "If it is cleared by your doctor, and you can go up and down stairs, you can do some rock climbing." Copyright © 2008 The Seattle Times Company

Sounds obvious, but photographs can be useful aids in wilderness navigation. On an overcast trip in the South Pickets, I once took a photo of the steep gully we planned to ascend in darkness during a momentary break in the clouds at sunset. By consulting the image on my camera the next night, we navigated past key snow patches and rock bands to find the right ascent route the next night/morning. Similarly, digital photos can help you ascend or descend complex terrain in poor visibility without major backtracking or deadends. These photos could come from your own camera or from ones pulled from CC or guides or other sources. They do, however, reduce the adventure in your venture, just like detailed beta would, so find the balance you need.

Any other tricks for improving the efficiency of multiple raps? Last year my partner and I spent almost as much time rapping Infinite bolts as we did climbing the darn thing!

Yep. I look at water sources on the map and carry as litle possible, sometimes I'll drink my fill and not carry any water at all knowing it will be available at a river a few miles down the trail. Obviously, one needs to decide how much emergency/contingency water one feels comfortable having.

Put duct tape on your heel or any other hot spot (keep your mind out of the gutter) to keep it from turning into a blister. Aluminum foil makes a great heat exchanger and pot lid that is much lighter and better than anything commercially available. For longer trips you may need to bring extra as it will tear with multiple uses. Space-blanket-like bivy sacks are super-light emergency gear for alpine outings, but they tear easily on rocks and you probably can't expect to get more than one night of use out of one. Also, they are completely water-proof and non-breathable, which is both a pro and a con. Use a chemical hand-warmer plus rubber band to keep batteries (cell phone, camera) functional in very cold conditions (from a friend last week). Put snow on black garbage bags to melt snow for water at basecamp while you're away during the day on your summit bid (saw that in a previous CC post). Climb naked at night to save weight (Mark Twight). Bring blackberry to surf CC for anchor clipping advice when you're at the chains on your favorite exit 38 project!

My son is 4 and is ready to try - I'm not in a hurry as I just want him to have fun. Do y'all use chest harnesses on your kids? Their hips are so slim I'd worry about them falling out of harnesses in the event of flipping over, which would be scary anyway. Thanks.

Mythos, You have a habit of posting nasty wound pictures on the site. Is this a fetish of yours? Hope to see you on the crags this spring/summer! Rad

MattP, Clip your helmet on the outside of your pack like the rest of us mortals. Then you won't be pinching it sideways in ways it was not designed to resist....and don't go tumbling down gullys! Side note: anyone been on a motorcycle in Indonesia or elsewhere? Those helmets are eggshells that are no better than a thin layer of SPF 100 plastic. R

"I treat my gear like my life depended on it" Words to live by....

You didn't mention what grade or what time of year (raptor closures affect many cliffs in spring/early summer). I love that park! Beautiful in springtime. A few fun climbs spring to mind: N twin something (slab near reservoir) 5.6 Lost Horizon 5.8 Ordeal 5.8 Wet Kiss 5.9 Coyote Ugly 5.9 Lava Falls 5.9 Truama 5.9 Jorgie's crack 10a Shake and Bake 10a The Hatchet 10a Dance on a Hot Volcano 10b Ali Baba 10b Post orgasmic depression 10d Buffalo Soldier 10d Pistol Whipped 10d Sunwheel 11a The Verdict 11a/b Have fun! You'll encounter some loose rock on less traveled routes. Don't let it deter you as it can help you to climb more delicately and efficiently.

I agree with Jens. Simul-climbing is not for newbies. There are a lot of subtle alpine skills (routefinding, ropedrag management, avoiding causing rockfall) that only come by logging miles on rock. The consequences for falling while simuling are much higher than regular leading but still lower than free-soloing.

Yep, helmet is a good idea. Ben, pictured above, is now 4! He loves all manner of helmets (fireman, snowboard (mine), bicycle, and makeshift ones of his own creation). I think he's almost ready to climb, but we're not in any real hurry.

Cool. Thanks for posting. My house is in the last photo!

I have no trouble napping at the crag, particularly when Gene is leading! (yawn) Remember that nasty Smith accident thread (someone will find it for me) where dad was leading and took a fall and mom didn't catch him because she was chasing the kids around the base of the crag? That was bad. My take-home message was that it's a bad idea to have the belayer doubling as caregiver for a small child. In both cases you need to be able to drop what you're doing and devote 100%. If you don't bad stuff happens. (insert thundercloud emoticon) That said, here's Ben's first crag nap (on Mambo Jambo):

60m + 60m = a lot of spaghetti to snarl at belays! Trog and I did infinite bolts on 2 ropes. We spent half the day flaking ropes, it seemed. Next time I would climb on a single rope and carry a tag line in a pack for the rapping.

Should be good fun: comp web page Join us for the University of Washington’s first Intercollegiate Bouldering Competition on Saturday, February 23rd! The “Rain City Send” is a chance for students, faculty, and staff of all Pacific Northwest colleges and universities to test their climbing skills against others or simply enjoy some friendly competition. Who: College students, faculty and staff of any Pacific Northwest university of college. When: Saturday, February 23rd, 12:30pm - 6:00pm Head on over to the Rain City Send page for more event details and registration information! Hurry to ensure that you receive a sweet T-shirt!

Sweet! Congrats. "On January 22, in perfect weather but feeling unusually tired, likely due to carbon monoxide poisoning inside their bivy sack, they continued over Herron and Egger to reach Cerro Torre." Yep, that's usually what I do when I'm feeling 'unusually tired'.

Two nuns were biking down a cobblestone street. One turns to the other and says, . . . . I've never come this way before.

too much training = no period.

Weekend, are you on the wagon? The 12 step program? Whazzup?