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Everything posted by Rad
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Insert "Whaa!" bulance photo
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Good Peregrine pic. This should be pegged (or some other verb) with a clear title in he rock climbing forum.
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I remember climbing at Traprock CT, where you have to bring a separate rope to sling distant shrubs back from the edge of the cliff. Pain in the arse that, and certainly not less of an eyesore. Similar situation for some routes at Mt Diablo in CA EXCEPT that the rock is sandstone. Net result = deep grooves in rock where anchor ropes and top ropes run. THAT is more irreversible damage than a bolt. Like Bill says, different crags lend themselves to different styles. Index LTW could be trad only and no bolts, but there would be a lot fewer routes and you'd have to top out every time or leave gear behind. BTW, your no bolt crag sounds like a concept that might fly for an article for Climbing. Get someone with a good sense of humor to write it.
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Cool linka Berdinka. I see it lists Prime Rib as 10c. Thanks to all y'alls for the new routes and cleaning and refitting of old routes. I'll put Original on the list - it is such a striking line and the falls look totally clean.
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Has anyone done the 10d thin crack dihedral about 100ft to the right (can't recall name and don't have the book handy). It looks really good, but the finish looks like a gravel mantle into a bush.
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Prime rib is usually done as three short pitches, but a single 60m rope will take you to the top anchor (or double 60s get you back down to the deck). The first pitch is a short vertical wierd crack system followed by an easy ramp. The second pitch is also quite short and involves thin slab and facework protected by copious bolts. The third pitch has a few fun layback and groove moves, some arete, a small roof, and a handcrack to the anchors. 10b seemed about right, with the crux around the third bolt in the middle pitch. Fun climb, though I liked Heart of Gold better (except that terrible traversing pitch).
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improve wa transit - pls vote for this project. .............. Commuter Challenge (a program of enterpriseSeattle) is one of four finalists for a $200,000 grant from the Green Mountain Coffee Company (now owners of Tully’s Coffee). Over the next week, we need to demonstrate public support. You can help by merely clicking your mouse. Go to www.justmeans.com/challenge/climate , then scroll down to the section marked “Transportation.” Our proposal is second on the list (it has a picture of Paul Minett and his name – he is my associate and he wrote the grant proposal). Just go over to the right hand side and click on the “Support It” tab. Then ask all your friends and coworkers to do the same. Please call me if you have questions. Thanks very much for your help. Let’s bring some stimulus money to Washington! Stephen Gerritson Business Development Manager Clean Energy and Technology enterpriseSeattle
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"In the mean time, patience is going to help the cause the best." And when you go to the crag be good citizens so that if decision makers visit they will see responsible people using a treasured resource. It would be really, really sad to lose the LTW at Index.
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Eggcellent. Kennedy was the best editor at Climbing IMHO.
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you need another category for "virtual" or "armchair" or "in my memories"
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(skip to project input form) (note Feb 6th deadline) Why Climbers Should Care about the Economic Stimulus Bill Access Fund Supporter, After passing in the House, the $800 billion economic stimulus bill is heading for the Senate. This massive stimulus package hopes to put three million people to work on short-term projects that will have lasting benefits. If passed, this bill will allocate a large amount of funding to federal land management agencies - the same agencies that manage many of our country's most treasured climbing areas. These agencies, including US Park Service, US Forest Service, and Bureau of Land Management, will spend up to $3 billion of stimulus money on construction-related projects such as road maintenance. And while we don't have influence on whether this bill passes, we do have the opportunity to make suggestions on where this funding will be spent, and help these agencies prioritize projects in and around our climbing areas. We need your input on potential projects The Access Fund has joined forces with other members of the Outdoor Alliance to compile a list of infrastructure projects that are important to the active outdoor recreation community. We will put this list in front of the federal land management agencies during upcoming meetings in Washington, D.C. to provide guidance on how to spend this stimulus money. We need to hear from you! This is your chance to propose a project or highlight a problem with a road, trail, river, or landscape in your back yard that needs increased financial support. Suggestions might include design of new roads, bridges, trails, remediation of abandoned mine sites, and even restoration projects. Please take the following brief survey by Friday February 6 and provide as much information about your suggested project as possible. Take the survey Thank you! Since 1991, the Access Fund has been the only national advocacy organization that keeps climbing areas open and conserves the climbing environment. The Access Fund supports and represents over 1.6 million climbers nationwide in ALL forms of climbing: rock climbing, ice climbing, mountaineering, and bouldering. Five core programs support the mission on national and local levels: climbing management policy, stewardship & conservation, local support & mobilization, education, and land acquisition & protection. POWERED BY CLIMBERS The Access Fund -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- email: af-enews@accessfund.org phone: 1-800-MEMBER9 web: http://www.accessfund.org
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Before y'all were born I climbed Lakeview on Cannon (5.5d), which finishes up the cheek of the Old Man of the Mtns in New Hampshire. It was a cool spot until you get to the top and see that the old fart is supported by steel beams and concrete. A few years later his whole head exfoliated off the mountain.
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Fun video. Thanks for sharing Marc. Just ignore the jealous zealots. btw, is that Journey in the soundtrack? Sounds like Perry.
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Not campusing as feet were used. Try again.
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The fracture in the first photo suggests the lift poles would have been taken out, but then the chairs can still be seen on the upper portion of cable, which suggests the lift is still intact. The WSDOT angle doesn't address this. Anyone have more data? Oh, Mtn Gods, please don't wipe out Alpental, please take Summit West instead! Heck, we'll even throw in most of Central...
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Looks like the climber was lowering after completing a TR and the belayer tried to hold the wrong end of the rope. The belayer certainly deserves the rope-burn he probably got. Lucky this didn't turn out worse.
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In choosing an image, remember to think about where the text will go. Perhaps Berdinka could write the two kids and a wife chapter and Ivan can write the 'how to epic' chapter. What about the 'teaching the girlfriend' chapter, or the 'hanging a dead pig carcass on the route' chapter, or the 'spray with style' chapter? High res versions available for all of these. PM for more info if interested.
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Thanks guys. Very helpful. The conference is the last week of January, so we'll probably have to decide about going before really knowing what the snow will be like. However, since one plane ticket and lodging will be covered by her work I bet we'll go. If the snow is sparse I may be pining for Whistler, but I'll spend more time with the kids and use alcohol and hottubs to soothe any remaining pain. Thanks again.
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Lawnmower man. Jaws. Alien. Moving Over Stone. The Wizard of Oz.
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My wife has a conference there so we're thinking about taking our kids and going. If you've been there in recent years can you answer a few questions? 1 - Looks like there are a lot of double black diamond runs, several of which require hiking at 11000+ feet elevation to access. True? How good and hard are these runs compared with runs at Whistler and resorts in WA? Are the hikes snowboard friendly (not a lot of ups and downs)? 2 - Kid lessons and terrain any good? 3 - Favorite places to eat/drink in the village? 4 - Other comments/suggestions? Thanks. Rad
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Problem with threatening to go the attorney route is that attorneys cost $$$. They make money coming and going. That doesn't mean some aren't worth it, but litigation costs would make your head spin. For these reasons, I like the I'm filing a grievance/complaint (or whatever it is) with the insurance commissioner threat better.
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And, why would "alternate methods for drying the fingers" be preferable, if water has "no significant effect on friction?" Oil (aka grease) is the problem, not water. Perhaps that's why liquid chalk has a lot of isopropanol (rubbing alcohol).
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Actually, the 38 trad lines Alex mentions should be mostly dry (or as dry as anything on the W side of the range) given eastern and somewhat southern exposure. The trad lines so far go about (based on some feedback) 8, 8, 9+, 10b, 10+ (mixed bolts and trad). The routes you mention at 32 are probably the ones in the Repo 1 area. There is a 5.6 crack that takes gear. A 10b crack (mambo jambo) that is fun but short and would get 5.8 at Index. Kinder gentler carpet bombing (5.9) is bolted but supposedly will go trad. A 10a left of Goddess looks 3inchish and decent if you want that. There is a 5.8 corner left of Street Cleaner. A 10c something on a wall that needs more traffic. In sort, there are a smattering of trad lines. Except for the RepoI climbs, which attract newbies like the Great Northern Slab, most trad lines at 32 see little traffic as people mostly go there for sport routes and don't bring the rack. Does that start to answer your question?
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No one is advocating buying 'weak' stocks. And Mr F&G, your username precisely captures the Republican campaign and governing strategy for the past decade. America is tired of this and the GOP is going to get in a few weeks