Rad

I've only been in two bouldering comps, but I liked that all problems were new, they had points instead of ratings, and there was no indication of how points related to V grades. Each climb was like a puzzle to solve without annoying preconceptions of this 'should be easy' or 'no way I'll flash'. Add to that the positive energy and encouragement of fellow participants. Now that was fun.

I don't understand that because a route is supposed to be graded based on its hardest move, right? So if the crux is 10c and that move gets harder or easier then that changes the grade. Changing easier moves on the route doesn't affect the overall grade. Agreed. And I would extend this same comment to outdoor areas: it doesn't matter whether they are hard or soft as long as they are consistent within a single area.

Whatever logic would support the idea of circuit grades for bouldering would support the same thing for roped routes. 112, do you get upset about misgraded roped routes? Ratings always have been and always will be subjective. A single route might feel hard for the grade or easy for the grade to different climbers. I don't worry too much about grades. It just feels good to be challenged and improving and ratings is one way to see that. Maybe this VW thing is just a bid to be trendy/cool...

Went to the Everett VW this afternoon and was surprised to see that the bouldering routes aren't graded with the v scale. They are now in circuits. The v0-v1 are one circuit (blue?), the v2-v3 are in another (green), the V4-v5 are yellow, and v6 and up are pink. But of course the routes are taped all different colors and their tape color bears no relation to the circuit designation. This is perplexing. There's a pretty big difference between an easy v2 and a hard v3. Or an easy v4 and a hard v5. Why lump them together? Are you tired of people whining about grades? Sure some routes are reachy and others are scrunched. Some are crimpy and others slopey. Some folks will whine no matter what you do. It's not you, it's just who they are. Don't worry about it. Are you trying to mimic the Fontainbleu system? (I don't really know how that works anyway). Am I supposed to do all of the routes in a circuit? I am not fixated on grades, but I was curious to see how another gym's route grades compare to ours at UW. I still don't know. The curious thing is that roped routes still have letter grades (11a vs 11b). I feel that there's much less difference between 10b and 10c than between v2 and v3. At UW, we have the opposite: v grades on boulder problems, sometimes with + and - appended, while roped routes have no letters (5.10, 5.11, 5.12). MAybe this sounds like a rant, but it's not meant to be. While I don't particularly understand or like the new system, it doesn't detract from the climbing experience. Good routes are fun and bad ones are annoying regardless of how they're graded. I enjoyed all the routes we did today at VW everett. Good job setters.

Got my copy. Will read soon. Plenty of Mike images for you fans. I'm guessing >500. Maybe throw some into the Sausagefest raffle? Might give you more pr

“Everyone lives by selling something.” -Robert Louis Stevenson (1850-1894) Get used to it.

The film is not about his life, only about the prep for the tour, except for a few clips from past performances. He was the ultimate entertainer, so it seems fitting that he is still entertaining past his death. It's bittersweet for the performers who had a once in a lifetime experience to work with MJ, and then they never got to do a single show. The movie is their 15 minutes of fame.

They were filming the run-up to the comeback tour, intending it to be for his own private collection. So the film is around getting ready for the tour. After his death, his family decided to put it together and release it. If you don't have your toes tapping and legs jumping during the film then you probably need a defibrillator.

Say what you will about a man who clearly had his quirks, but this film was pretty interesting and inspiring. In preparation for his tour, MJ hired some of the best young dancers in the world, but he still shines brighter. Ditto singers and musicians. In the film, you get a glimpse into his character, at least at work. He was clearly in a class by himself and still had it going on when he met his untimely end. RIP.

The opinions expressed in the Seattle Times and PI on-line comment sections as well as Craigslist Rants and Raves, are as representative of the population as a whole as Spray is representative of climbers. Agreed. The comments are more juvenile than 99% of the posters here. I grew up in an era when movie bad guys went to jail. Then around the time I went to college the bad guys all got blown away in gory fashion. I still believe one is innocent until proven guilty.

How did Francis die? Francis Bacon (1561-1626), the Elizabethan champion of the scientific method, died in pursuit of a better way of preserving food. He had caught a severe cold while attempting to preserve a chicken by filling it with snow.

I am on AT&T and get good service from almost any summit around. That includes Rainier, Stuart, DT, Chair, Red mt, etc. I did not get reception on El Dorado. I find that the signal is cut off easily though. Like if a jet flys over or someone is using another cell phone nearby. ditto. iphone gps is great in civilization but does some pretty funny things in the sticks (mmkay, it looks like we're driving into the lake).

Well, I guess I should have to toss in my two cents. As has been said above, I wouldn't want my principles to cost someone their life. I often carry my cell even though the chance of it having reception in the mtns is low. Mainly, I call when I hit the first service area on the way out to let the wife know we're down fine and headed for food. She's not a worrier but does appreciate that. I will also use it as a time keeping piece. Txting is a good idea, and one that I will try to remember, because you can send a msg and it will get sent when reception kicks in again. MAybe someday I'll use it in an emergency, but I hope not. I doubt I'll get an MLU. I do find a phone quite useful at Index, 38, and 32. Apologies to the climbers I've belayed while taking business calls! Trango Cinch rocks! And lastly, I don't think a phone affects my decision-making at the crag or in the mtns.

Good point. Unfortunately, I can't change the survey at this point. At least we have your response. Feel free to start a survey on reasons to leave one at home if you feel inspired.

Article on "yuppie 911" We've seen plenty of discussion on this topic in the past, yet phones and other devices are becoming more useful and more prevalent. Do you take a phone or other device into the backcountry? What have you used it for? My main question is: has this changed your decision-making? (e.g. no cell reception so better be more cautious vs good coverage so go for it).

why not let your rockstar son decide?

Failing to pay parking tickets is the gateway drug to more serious illegal activity, such as stealing ketchup from McDs, bivying in the Enchantments without an overnight permit, using the restroom at Starbucks without making a purchase, and returning REI gear that you've happily abused for years simply because you're hoping to get a new model for free.

The Nelson Select guides list some classics and the seasons when they are in the best condition. In addition, many wonderful routes have gone up since those came out. Blake compiled a nice list of some good unpublished routes here. Current conditions routes and way more info than you ever need can be found on cc.com.

When you get to the top of a v0 downclimb it instead of jumping off. Or if two V0s end at the same hold climb up one and then down the other. Or downclimb any and all holds to get to the start of another v0 and then do that one without touching the floor in between. Watch how other climbers do the routes you do. Any different sequences? If so, try them. Now watch the same climbers on the v1s. Try their sequences to see which ones will work for you. There are millions of other tips to keep from getting bored. Have fun.

If it rains on the West side you can usually head to the East side of the range and be ok. Another question is what kind of routes you want to do. A number of approaches are best when there is still plenty of snow cover. Others are better, and routes drier, once everything is dry. I suggest you rank your top choice routes and start to learn more about the best times of year to do them. Besides, plotting and planning can keep you motivated on the darkest, wettest winter days.

Had similar experience w/Trango Cinch. Nice to have the prussik backup.

BUMMER! Sounds like you need another opinion and another doc.

If memory serves, it goes 10b traverse, A0 bolt ladder, Split pillar, Sword, A0 bolt ladder, Perry's lieback, 10a wandering face, Sail Flake, Bellygood ledge.

or not

Of course there's technique reqd, but if you're strong you can get by with poor technique until you hit the harder grades. Same goes for everything but true slab climbing.