Rad

Say what you will about a man who clearly had his quirks, but this film was pretty interesting and inspiring. In preparation for his tour, MJ hired some of the best young dancers in the world, but he still shines brighter. Ditto singers and musicians. In the film, you get a glimpse into his character, at least at work. He was clearly in a class by himself and still had it going on when he met his untimely end. RIP.

The opinions expressed in the Seattle Times and PI on-line comment sections as well as Craigslist Rants and Raves, are as representative of the population as a whole as Spray is representative of climbers. Agreed. The comments are more juvenile than 99% of the posters here. I grew up in an era when movie bad guys went to jail. Then around the time I went to college the bad guys all got blown away in gory fashion. I still believe one is innocent until proven guilty.

How did Francis die? Francis Bacon (1561-1626), the Elizabethan champion of the scientific method, died in pursuit of a better way of preserving food. He had caught a severe cold while attempting to preserve a chicken by filling it with snow.

I am on AT&T and get good service from almost any summit around. That includes Rainier, Stuart, DT, Chair, Red mt, etc. I did not get reception on El Dorado. I find that the signal is cut off easily though. Like if a jet flys over or someone is using another cell phone nearby. ditto. iphone gps is great in civilization but does some pretty funny things in the sticks (mmkay, it looks like we're driving into the lake).

Well, I guess I should have to toss in my two cents. As has been said above, I wouldn't want my principles to cost someone their life. I often carry my cell even though the chance of it having reception in the mtns is low. Mainly, I call when I hit the first service area on the way out to let the wife know we're down fine and headed for food. She's not a worrier but does appreciate that. I will also use it as a time keeping piece. Txting is a good idea, and one that I will try to remember, because you can send a msg and it will get sent when reception kicks in again. MAybe someday I'll use it in an emergency, but I hope not. I doubt I'll get an MLU. I do find a phone quite useful at Index, 38, and 32. Apologies to the climbers I've belayed while taking business calls! Trango Cinch rocks! And lastly, I don't think a phone affects my decision-making at the crag or in the mtns.

Good point. Unfortunately, I can't change the survey at this point. At least we have your response. Feel free to start a survey on reasons to leave one at home if you feel inspired.

Article on "yuppie 911" We've seen plenty of discussion on this topic in the past, yet phones and other devices are becoming more useful and more prevalent. Do you take a phone or other device into the backcountry? What have you used it for? My main question is: has this changed your decision-making? (e.g. no cell reception so better be more cautious vs good coverage so go for it).

why not let your rockstar son decide?

Failing to pay parking tickets is the gateway drug to more serious illegal activity, such as stealing ketchup from McDs, bivying in the Enchantments without an overnight permit, using the restroom at Starbucks without making a purchase, and returning REI gear that you've happily abused for years simply because you're hoping to get a new model for free.

The Nelson Select guides list some classics and the seasons when they are in the best condition. In addition, many wonderful routes have gone up since those came out. Blake compiled a nice list of some good unpublished routes here. Current conditions routes and way more info than you ever need can be found on cc.com.

When you get to the top of a v0 downclimb it instead of jumping off. Or if two V0s end at the same hold climb up one and then down the other. Or downclimb any and all holds to get to the start of another v0 and then do that one without touching the floor in between. Watch how other climbers do the routes you do. Any different sequences? If so, try them. Now watch the same climbers on the v1s. Try their sequences to see which ones will work for you. There are millions of other tips to keep from getting bored. Have fun.

If it rains on the West side you can usually head to the East side of the range and be ok. Another question is what kind of routes you want to do. A number of approaches are best when there is still plenty of snow cover. Others are better, and routes drier, once everything is dry. I suggest you rank your top choice routes and start to learn more about the best times of year to do them. Besides, plotting and planning can keep you motivated on the darkest, wettest winter days.

Had similar experience w/Trango Cinch. Nice to have the prussik backup.

BUMMER! Sounds like you need another opinion and another doc.

If memory serves, it goes 10b traverse, A0 bolt ladder, Split pillar, Sword, A0 bolt ladder, Perry's lieback, 10a wandering face, Sail Flake, Bellygood ledge.

or not

Of course there's technique reqd, but if you're strong you can get by with poor technique until you hit the harder grades. Same goes for everything but true slab climbing.

Cool. Time?

don't worry. most people who climb in the valley have humbling experiences at one point or another. mine was stumbling down the spires gully in the dark with no headlamp after a taxing climb on NE buttress of higher

Nicely said Tvash. What makes Touching the Void such a compelling story is not the accident or the what ifs, but the amazing force of will and determination and cunning to survive when the shit totally hits the fan. It is about digging deeper than you ever thought possible, going on when all seems lost, and then being willing to bare your soul in print for others to gawk over. Sure, see the movie, but definitely read the book. After you finish that go read the tale of the Endurance. THAT is harrowing beyond imagination and it plays out over more than a YEAR.

The guy who invented TNT funds the nobel peace prize.

If it gets too sketchy you can always rappel the cliff band...

Really cool. I'm confused though. The wall has a route but yours is new, right? How many pitches and how hard was each one? Does it end at the cave then? Great pics.

You should post a TR so that others won't think the line is unclimbed and repeat the cycle of choss. I'm curious to see photos even if you didn't like it.

Unless you're there midweek in winter there's likely to be a line of people. The first few pitches weave back and forth before you get to the dike, but it's pretty clear in the Yos Free Climbs book. Anyway, it's worth going back to do someday.