Rad

Hey Gene, Maybe you can park in the driveway and build yourself something to climb in the garage. If the weather stays like this you can climb outdoor rock all winter! Rad

That's the ticket!

Some of those are really great pics, great lighting. Thanks for posting.

Exciting! When they're really small they can't holt their heads up so most regular packs won't work yet. We had very good luck with the Baby Bjorn. Baby on front. Day pack on back. Wife carries nothing. Everybody's happy. It's pretty easy to hike with really little ones. They just sleep!

In my mind, the most important factor that I didn't see in a scan of the posts above is that you have to have a solid weather window. Bad weather will do bad things to you any time of the year on Rainier. Many people who have tried to make it go when the weather is saying otherwise have paid the ultimate price for their decision. Don't be one of those. If the weather is bad turn around. The mountain will still be there waiting for you. I'm no expert. I've only been up twice, and both times by the Emmons Route, which may be the easiest on the whole mountain. There are fewer people at Schurman and the Emmons Flats, which makes for a nicer mountain experience, and the sunrise is incredible there. On timing, one time we went June 1st and the next time was the third week of June. The advantage of early season is the days are longer and you can move faster because almost all of the crevasses are still sealed shut. Obviously, you need a solid weather window to go for it, but that's the case later anyway. There is no shame in hiring a guide. It's just a question of personal priorities and finances. Being self-guided allows for some of that flexibility in timing to hit the right weather window, which can help in early season. A rope team of three to four is definitely safer than two. I used to get altitude-related nasty headaches, but found that two things prevented them: 1 stay really well hydrated and 2 eliminate sun exposure to skin and eyes (with polarized glasses). Regarding the comment on taking more than one day from Muir, I am not sure that would be worthwhile unless someone is carrying all your gear. Carrying a full pack from 10k to 12.5k is likely to be more tiring than doing a daytrip from 10k to 15k and back again. Spend a rest day at Muir if you want to recover from the climb from Paradise.

Actually, 97.372% of threads on this site are jousting battles of aging idealogues who never get off the couch. Show me some people getting off the bleeping couch and into the mountains and I'll click on it.

2 cents: you can practice belay escape, ascending lines, z-pulley/hauling systems etc indoors at a location of your choice. Being on a real glacier is cool, and there will be some elements (padding the lip) that you can't replicate in a gym or basement with rafters, but you can get most of the basics down before you go outdoors. I just did these recently but would be up for practice if you find a convenient place.

Tvash has posted some scramble/hikes with fabulous photos that are always welcomed. Your previous posts have been highly entertaining. This site can always use more TRs. I am not a moderator and can't give you any official blessing, but from a user-standpoint I'd say, "Post away!"

Thanks for the rock stoke. There was an odd road trip game from my Maine camp counselor youth that involved spotting VW bugs. If you were the first one to see one and call out "Beaver" you got a point. If you spotted a red one you yelled "Beaver Cleaver" and got two points. Convertible was 5 and red convertibles ten. Can't remember what the last were called. Anyone else remember this?

Great posts. Thank you.

I agree on writing letters and take issue with your other statement. He may be entirely off base and misguided, but he's trying to do the job he was elected to do: serve the interests of the people of WA. Insulting his fitness/body fat content only detracts from your own credibility. It sounds like the guy got info from one source who told him this would be a good idea. He needs to get the message from ten times as many people that this is a bad idea. Kudos to those of you who have written. It is ridiculous to complain that he doesn't know the nuances of moutaineering IF YOU HAVE NOT WRITTEN HIM TO TELL HIM YOUR VIEWS AND ESTABLISH YOUR CREDIBILITY. If you have an issue that is important to you then taking the time to educate all of the relevant public servants may increase the liklihood you will get the outcome you want. The squeaky wheeel gets the graese. Just ask MattP. BTW, quotes from SAR buddies are great, but it would be really great to get the actual SAR data/statistics from the past few years. Anyone know how to do that? I'll do some legwork if you pm me contacts (please don't post personal contact info in public cc.com threads unless it comes off a public source). Thanks.

I probably wouldn't put them in the great class, but there are a host of crags at X32 (e.g. Blackstone, RepoI, II) and X38 (Gritscone, Off Ramp, Interstate Park and others) where you can walk around the top to the anchor pretty easily and set up a toprope. The books list which climbs have accessible anchors. I used to toprope a lot in the SF bay area and the Traprocks of CT back in the day. I have to say it was often a pain in the arse to set up anchors at those areas, we pretty much had to have miles of sling or an extra rope just for that purpose, and at least a third to half of one's time was spent setting up and breaking down the anchors, assuming you don't want to just do laps on one route. So I wouldn't get too nostalgic about the good old days of TRing.

Let's not bash our state elected officials. They work very long hours for meager pay. Don't believe me? Then go down and sit in the sessions. Most are open. If you don't like what they're doing write them or run for election yourself. Maybe someone here can draft a letter that we can all copy and paste into out emails. Any of you verbose types got time to do that instead of spray?

In fact, IMHO the guys's got a lot of class: Conan O'Brien released a statement regarding NBC's plan to shift "The Jay Leno Show" to the time slot currently held by "The Tonight Show." People of Earth: In the last few days, I've been getting a lot of sympathy calls, and I want to start by making it clear that no one should waste a second feeling sorry for me. For 17 years, I've been getting paid to do what I love most and, in a world with real problems, I've been absurdly lucky. That said, I've been suddenly put in a very public predicament and my bosses are demanding an immediate decision. Six years ago, I signed a contract with NBC to take over The Tonight Show in June of 2009. Like a lot of us, I grew up watching Johnny Carson every night and the chance to one day sit in that chair has meant everything to me. I worked long and hard to get that opportunity, passed up far more lucrative offers, and since 2004 I have spent literally hundreds of hours thinking of ways to extend the franchise long into the future. It was my mistaken belief that, like my predecessor, I would have the benefit of some time and, just as important, some degree of ratings support from the prime-time schedule. Building a lasting audience at 11:30 is impossible without both. But sadly, we were never given that chance. After only seven months, with my Tonight Show in its infancy, NBC has decided to react to their terrible difficulties in prime-time by making a change in their long-established late night schedule. Last Thursday, NBC executives told me they intended to move the Tonight Show to 12:05 to accommodate the Jay Leno Show at 11:35. For 60 years the Tonight Show has aired immediately following the late local news. I sincerely believe that delaying the Tonight Show into the next day to accommodate another comedy program will seriously damage what I consider to be the greatest franchise in the history of broadcasting. The Tonight Show at 12:05 simply isn't the Tonight Show. Also, if I accept this move I will be knocking the Late Night show, which I inherited from David Letterman and passed on to Jimmy Fallon, out of its long-held time slot. That would hurt the other NBC franchise that I love, and it would be unfair to Jimmy. So it has come to this: I cannot express in words how much I enjoy hosting this program and what an enormous personal disappointment it is for me to consider losing it. My staff and I have worked unbelievably hard and we are very proud of our contribution to the legacy of The Tonight Show. But I cannot participate in what I honestly believe is its destruction. Some people will make the argument that with DVRs and the Internet a time slot doesn't matter. But with the Tonight Show, I believe nothing could matter more. There has been speculation about my going to another network but, to set the record straight, I currently have no other offer and honestly have no idea what happens next. My hope is that NBC and I can resolve this quickly so that my staff, crew, and I can do a show we can be proud of, for a company that values our work. Have a great day and, for the record, I am truly sorry about my hair; it's always been that way. Yours, Conan

Actually, I think the proposal is just the opposite: tax soda pop and tobacco and anyone who frequents the Quickie Mart.

This is a scare tactic designed to get voters to feel that taxes might be preferable to the "dire" cuts that would otherwise come.

"I am thrilled to be joining the great talent and management team at Fox News," Palin said in a statement posted on the network's Web site. "It's wonderful to be part of a place that so values fair and balanced news." :lmao:

That's a bitter pill to swallow! Thanks for the thoughts. I may check out the hand surgeon if insurance will cover it so I can learn something and be confident I'm doing the right thing.

That's another Jens.

So I'm in this boat and am wondering if y'all learned anything substantive from that article. Tweaked my pinky (a2 pulley tear?) about 6 weeks ago. Climbed a day or two and then realized something was wrong. Rested about two weeks, but that didn't do it. Taped. Just a little climbing. Then another week of rest. I still have pain. I am itching to get back climbing but don't want to permanently harm this digit. I am also concerned that I may be losing mobility in the second joint. Any suggestions/experience? Any hand doc recommendations in Seattle? Thanks Rad

I know people who really like the Hyak spot. Haven't been with my kids yet, but we'll get there. Matt, I also grew up with the sleds with runners. They are way more fun than the other kind. I think they're faster because they work on the same principle as ice skates: put a lot of pressure on a narrow blade to melt ice underneath. Fun! As you get older add alcohol and trespassing and jumps to increase the fun factor.

Why don't you go climb it and then tell us what you think...

I have a gps in my drawer that I've never found very useful. Mostly, I rely on topos and terrain features for navigation. A few exceptions are below: - Used a digital camera as a navigational aid for night travel. Shot pics of route in twilight and referred to them at night. Worked great. - Once used a compass to stay on course in foggy whiteout on Sulfide Glacier. Once used a compass in confusing alpine meadows and mist in the hills around Juneau. Both times it saved us from trouble. - Once used an altimeter to help locate a 'trail' in the Pickets. It was quite accurate. I feel that relying extensively on devices or blindly following topos/beta/directions without engaging common sense and critical thinking can lead to trouble. Other stories out there? Happy New Year!

OR family follows gps into mtns on a "shortcut" Does anyone have first-hand experience of alpine climbing situations where gps or other devices have given potentially dangerous advice/info. Please post your snide comments on the newspaper website and spare us from the predictable parroting of previously posted pomposity.

I'm interested but would need more info before making a purchase.