Rad

Actually, today I went to Si. It was so SICK! Well, maybe not the big Si cuz we're not ready for that. Just the Little Si. It was still totally SICK, though. Actually, we didn't make it all the way up the trail, we got sidetracked by this SICK cliff. There were some small curly-haired dogs walking on the trail that left little curly dumps on the gravel by the parking lot - SICK! -but they didn't scare us - the dogs or their dumps- cuz we're climbers. Well, mybe not REAL climbers, more like SPORT climbers. So we warmed up on a reptilian climb. It was SICK. A few bolts next to a crack. But hey, it's sport climbing so what do you want?! We used my pink rope. The anchors look crappy and need to be replaced so someone doesn't lower, fall, bounce on his head on the ledge, and fly into the trees below in a pile of gelatinous gray matter. SICK! Then we went to climb some route named after prana-topped hotties in VW. It was SICK . The route was dry except on the last move to the chains you had to step into a sopping slobbery foothold while pulling an undercling on an overhanging wall. SICK. Clip, clip. Lower. Meanwhile, a 5.14 climber was warming up on my SICK project. Well, it's not mine, and it's not a project, cuz it's been climbed 1000s of times be4, but it's a project for me cuz I haven't climbed it so I was projecting my proj. And it's SO SICK! It would be my first at that number grade. So I asked the 5.14 climber to hang some qdraws for me, cuz I'll take any help I can get. So I set out on my redpoint attempt - actually pinkpoint because the draws were pre-placed - feeling like Superman. Well, not really super, but at least OK, and more like a sport climber dude than a real MAN, so really just an OK sport climber dude. SICK! I was stressed beacuse my lucky chalkbag was at the gym where I left it on Friday, but I borrowed one so it was ok. So I started up the proj. I made it through the SICK bouldery lower crux, rested on the ledge while my belayer untangled a hairball of rope, barely hung in there through the enduro middle, and snagged a SICK rest on a hold so caked with chalk it looked like a seagull guanofest party. But I chalked more anyway cuz it was my proj I was projecting. Then I slapped up the arete, sketched past the second to last bolt and...fell two moves from the end of the bidness of the route. Not so sick. More sickening. Simply ran out of juice and couldn't crimp the crimpy crimps on the bouldery upper bulging SICK final crux. So I hung like only sportos can and then climbed to the top, undaunted by the fact that the bolts were almost 6 ft apart! SICK! Redpoint still awaits. So that was my day at Mt Si, or at least Little SI, or somewhere up the trail half way to Little Si. SICK!

I'm working on an article on this topic for the NWMJ this year. If you have comments to share send me a pm or post them. I'm sure they SAR folks are relieved to have solved this mystery.

p1 Davis Holland is wet/damp much of the year. It's just part of the experience, like the crux move on the Regular route on Fairview in Tuolumne.

They still ship the bolts I use to the USA. I think it varies by item depending on their deal with the manufacturer.

Excellent game. Congrats Canada, you were the better team. USA probably played with more heart for the second half of regulation. I'm glad USA scored that goal near the end to force you to actually WIN the game instead of playing not to lose - prevent defense is lame in any sport.

USA has 9 Not much consolation when the US takes gold in THE hockey game!

Nice. It's a good aerobis workout in the summer too.

Nice. I love the Cascades, but I miss the Sierras.

don't forget to spay and neuter your pets

That's how they got into trouble in the first place, remember? And Tillicum is a she.

Sweet! Great pics too.

Fabulous! Great little adventure. You should have pics of sticking your fingers out to count the summits as you passed them, as Colin did in the Pickets and Waddington traverses. Thanks for posting!

At Vantage you need a kevlar suit to go with your full visor motocross helmet. New olympic sport: sport-o-choss. See helmetless climbers race the clock while clipping bolts in suspect rock as large and small blocks shear off under their feet and hands. Thrills abound.

Happy to take folks out on tours. Send pm when wetter gets better.

Narrow Arrow Direct P3 - Lower Town Wall, Index. Leave My Face Alone - The Country, Index. Overture - Deception area, Exit 38. Architect Rally - Nevermind, Exit 38. Gold Rush - Woods area, Exit 32/Little Si. BLM6 - left edge of WWI, Exit 32/Little Si. And then new routes at a new crag at X38 Far Side that feels more like Index than X38 (pm me and I'll take you when weather improves): History Book (24m, 10a, all trad). Metamorphosis (2p, 10+, mixed gear and bolts). Hypertension (28m, 11). Free Radical (25m, 11-). Hidden Dragon (30m, 11).

Better to stay on the couch and push remote buttons rather than trying to push any limits

"Media image slaves live by random selection" - Neil Young

More in the same vein: Dr. Sniff and the Tuna Boaters - Index Hugh G. Rection - Pinnacles Heat Seeking Moisture Missile - Pinnacles

MAybe you can look to the columnades (sp) bike park in Seattle as a model. Dave Schulz knows the score. In my understanding, the city handled permitting and provided some $ for supplies. The community users provided all the labor. That way you get a product people really enjoy and use with greatly reduced costs to the city and a larger materials budget than the user group might cobble together on its own. Everyone wins.

Ditto

There are a lot of folks at cc.com and beyond who don't appreciate that their current and future employers, friends, spouses, and others will google their names and quickly turn up all the internet sludge they've been spewing. Avatars are security blankets that provide little protection against even modestly sophisticated cyber scrutiny. Anyone who believes otherwise is living in a bubble that will eventually POP!

Ground up routes where the bolts are unreachable, or have no clipping stance, or don't protect the hard moves, or don't protect one from hitting ledges etc are seriously flawed IMHO. The needs of the many outweigh the ego needs of the one IMHO. Think about creating a high quality line you'd be proud to have your name associated with. Bolts should be placed deliberately and thoughtfully, not slapped in willy nilly. They are like tattoos; their marks can be hidden but can never be completely erased. If you really don't want to rap bolt, maybe try a variation on Chirp's suggestion: rap and figure out where the clips should be, then lead ground up and find hooks near enough to get the bolts where you want them. Drilling by hand is going to seem more pure, but remember you're putting in bolts on a short slab at a crag with other routes, so you're best effort is going to be about as pure as "clean coal". Good luck.

Sounds like a good f-ing example you're setting.

Butt dialing PLBs. Nice.

back support is a good feature on bjorn, particularly if you get a largish lump, as was the case with our youngest. i don't think use past 8-12 months is an issue because by the time they can hold their heads up and look around you'll want them in a suspension backpack anyway. when a bit bigger they like to face forward and see what's ahead. yes, heat is an issue, which is why I'd only wear the thinnest synth shirt underneath. dressing the baby in the right amt of clothes to avoid overheating/cold extremities takes some practice but is easy. lastly, you can usually get good baby gear used from friends or second hand stores.. wash well, save $$$! enjoy!