Rad

Maybe they only moved it in your memory...

Hopefully someone will post a recent pic for you, but regardless of its condition you can always climb the rocks to the left. Have fun!

Yep. A single 60 is fine for the NE ridge. It's a lovely route in a great position with views of the Southern pickets and the barrier. Very moderate and casual. The shwack to/from civilization was far more harrowing for us, but we were probably not on the right 'route' for that. I think the bivy sites and large S-facing slabs below the NE ridge are gorgeous too.

Sweet! Post a TR and let us know what you think. Note Blake traversed about 25ft right after first belay to start of 2nd pitch.

Beginner rule #37: Take your crampons OFF before you glissade!!!

I've heard starfish, but go google famous boarders and read their blogs. That will get you in the lingo game.

I'm cross-fitting shorts over polypro

Go for it. Just make sure there is no one anywhere near the impact area. If bolts get flattened they can be replaced or not as needed. Be careful, and remember trundling is like riding a bad motor scooter, really fun by you don't want to be seen doing it. I pitched a 250 pounder off the new crag just yesterday. BOOM!

The down-sloping landings for most big park jumps mean you can land on your back and have a decent chance of only bruise your ego. I've landed on my back and face more than once, but not going inverted as I'm not that good. Half pipe is certainly a place for board grabs, but half pipes are generally separate from the park runs. There might be an isolated short section of quarter pipe (one side of a half pipe) and that is a good place for a grab. Also fun for your story is the fact that there are likely to be a hoard of teenage boarders and terrain park skiers sitting above the jump watching everyone who comes down and styles or lands on their back. Add to that pumping music from speakers, super baggy pants, and you're starting to get the picture. Sorry, but I can't help with the lingo, dude. Good luck! Sounds fun. Makes me think of this song: ......... Paperback writer Paper back writer (paperback writer) Dear Sir or Madam, will you read my book? It took me years to write, will you take a look? It's based on a novel by a man named Lear And I need a job, so I want to be a paperback writer, Paperback writer. It's the dirty story of a dirty man And his clinging wife doesn't understand. The son (The Sun) is working for the Daily Mail, It's a steady job but he wants to be a paperback writer, Paperback writer. Paperback writer (paperback writer) It's a thousand pages, give or take a few, I'll be writing more in a week or two. I can make it longer if you like the style, I can change it round and I want to be a paperback writer, Paperback writer. If you really like it you can have the rights, It could make a million for you overnight. If you must return it, you can send it here But I need a break and I want to be a paperback writer, Paperback writer. Paperback writer (paperback writer) Paperback writer - paperback writer Paperback writer - paperback writer

ok

Fantabulous! Good thing you were acclimatized before doing Conness. With a topout around 12,400 that thing can get your sea lungs pumping.

Sweet! Aluminum crampons on running shoes? Great idea. Too bad you didn't get any good pics on your trip

There are a few two pitch lines at the Gun Show. All are less than 60m total and so can be lead as one pitch if desired, and rapped with a single rope. There are two on Deception Wall, but probably not what you're looking for as they are harder than most newbie routes. They are: Pop Bottle (7) to Rat Face (10) to some 5.12. There is an unnamed 10ish thing that leads to Overture (11). A few multipitch lines at a new Far Side crag that fall in the 10/11 range. Great Northern Slab is pretty darn friendly. Many variations possible. Then there is the 26 pitch bolted line on the N fork road that shall remain unnamed so as to avoid waking sleeping trolls....

If wikipedia has the facts straight, "Dan Osman (February 11, 1963 – November 23, 1998) was an American extreme sport practitioner, known for the dangerous sports of "free-soloing" (rock climbing without ropes or other safety gear); and "rope jumping" (falling several hundred feet from a cliff then being caught by a safety rope), for which his record was over 1000 feet / 304.8 meters. He was known for living a bohemian lifestyle, rarely working, and living in a tree house for months at a time. He was the star of several rock climbing videos, which brought free-soloing to a wider audience. Dan had one daughter.[1]" "Dan Osman died November 23, 1998 at the age of 35 after his rope failed while performing a "controlled free-fall" jump from the Leaning Tower rock formation in Yosemite National Park. Osman had come back to Yosemite to dismantle the jump tower but apparently decided to make several jumps (over a few days) before doing so.[1] The failure was investigated by the National Park Service with assistance from Chris Harmston, Quality Assurance Manager at Black Diamond Equipment. Harmston concluded that a change in jump site angle probably caused the ropes to cross and entangle, leading to the rope cutting by melting.[2] Miles Daisher, who was with Osman when he made the jump, stated that the ropes used in his fatal jump had been exposed to inclement weather — including rain and snow — for more than a month before the fatal jump, but that the same ropes were used for several shorter jumps on the previous and same day. [1]" The guys in this vid are doing a swing, not a fall/catch. And the distances are much shorter than what Osman was doing. It also looks like they haven't left their gear in the elements for a month.

Jens put up that steep route across from block of doom. We both think 11c sounds about right. Powerful and bouldery. There is a cool route just above block of doom on the uphill side of the cave (approach from top). Felt 11-ish, assuming you don't cheat right as I did the first time.

GB did updates after the first edition. Not much since then. Several folks are contemplating writing new I90 corridor guides, but talk is cheap.

Thanks for getting out there and for the update. MacBeth is very solid rock except for one band between the slab and steep face. We cleaned that as much as we could, but stopped short of a full-on mining effort. Hopefully you got on Midsummer Night's dream, the best route there. It's on the far right and traverses under and then over a diagonalling roof. I haven't been up in that area for a bit, but I remember anchors on a wall on your right as you're heading up the trail. Didn't look particularly appealing, but maybe you're thinking of another line.

It seems there are two kinds of solutions: Two pairs of shoes. A pair of rock shoes good for friction, cracks, and edges (many options), and a pair of sturdy, lightweight approach shoes (also many available). One pair of shoes. This is a tough nut to crack because anything with decent rock performance will be tight, not have padding, not be stiff enough to take a crampon or work on hard snow, and wear down and get dirty quickly on trails.

Sweet. Sounds like you would've been hating life just as much hunkered down on the summit in a storm as muntering through the elements.

Nice. So has this thing seen an FFA yet?

Bump. Who out there enjoys reading NWMJ articles and drooling over the fantastic photos? It doesn't just materialize out of thin air every year. The journal needs your help! Please consider volunteering some of your time and passion to keep it going strong.

Bummer. No experience with cervical discs, but I had L4/L5 and L5/S1 hernias that were pretty bad. Vioxx and aggressive PT brought me back to 100%. Vioxx is off the mkt now, but a strong anti-inflammatory may be in order, but check with your doc first. Remember that you're not taking it for pain but to reduce internal inflammation that is pressing on the nerve bundle. Tingling and numbness and reduced motor function are not good signs. You need to address this to ensure you don't end up with permanent nerve damage. Good luck.

Sweet! Amazing rock. Looks like it would be REALLY bad to fall off on that traverse on p6...long pendulum into a corner. The only thing more dangerous is hitting your head.

I use a trango cinch and have myself on a long leash to a prussik on a second rope. Probably overkill, but it's safe. The problem with the prussik on the same line is that it's difficult to move up and down as you know. Another backup, though a bit more sketchy, is to tie a beefy knot in the line you're on and clip a small locking biner (or two) on the rope. That way if the device somehow fails or comes off (don't know how this would happen) then you'd slide down the rope until the biner hit the beefy know. Have never tested this, thank goodness. It does stay out of your way. Just make sure to tie the knot at a point so it will keep you from hitting anything nasty. I look forward to hearing what smarter folks have to say.