shapp

I have done first kiss, lots of bolts, about 5.8 pretty fun. For multipitch sport at smith in November I would do teddy bears picknick (5.10b) in the morning cause it is in the sun, or stroll over and do round river with the 5.8 finish, then hike over and climb First Kiss in the Afternoon. That would give you about 8 pitches, which would approximate a contrived grade III. Have fun.

while you are at it, check to see if the binding is indeed mounted on chord center, and make sure that "your" boot while in the binding is centered laterally (side to side) on the ski.

I may have spoken with you in person, I don't remember, and I also just made it out to the stuff on the deschutes by trout creek, great cracks. The routes at steins are good, but it was still worth the short hike for the adventure on the origional route before. I haven't put up any routes there.

Actually, you misquoted yourself when you sent me the info last year and I have subsequently climbed all of these routes expect the 11d.

Also some more details on some of the bolted routes in the area: A few years ago a line to climbers left of the 5.10d dihedral was put up and it is called "Shasta's Spirit" it goes at 5.11d. To the left of that route down at the base is a 5.10a called Mass Wasting. Some other folks from Bend/Redmond are putting up some routes on the other formations near Steins. Money, whiskey, sexy is a three pitch route that goes at 5.9+. It follows a slab on the downhill side of the middle formation. Those guys also did a route called "Heat Stroke" that is reportedly in the 5.10 range and is located on the farthest formation away from Steins Pillar. In addition, an individual put up a variation to the original route for the first pitch. Instead of climbing the chimney, head downhill around to the right and locate a slab that goes up to a bulge. This is called "Rocket ride" and goes at 5.10a. This deposits you on the large ledge where the second pitch to the original line heads up.

No, you started this thread. So you aught to be open to another long long time oregon climbers opinion of the routes. Of which the opinion is no big deal.

You probably spent more on a latte and a breakfast burrito than the cost of a couple wire gates, just don't climb with the dude any more

This has got to be one of the dumbest threads about oregon rock I have ever read. Steins will always be an obscurity due to its proximity to the vastly popular Monkey and Smith in general. Also, who ever did put the routes up had to climb another route to get to the top and rap/clean etc. A lot of work indeed. Its not like they just walked up to a cliff and tossed a rope over and started drilling like at so many other crags in Oregon. At least you Oregon climbers are talking about something other than 3 finger Jack, Washington, or Hood.

Ditto, how do you even know you had them at the beginning of that trip? Do you count every single crab every time you go climbing?

I got the shizzle on the directions to the tasty crakizzle and will be in the area all next week, hope to check this place out for myself.

yes yes, the descent down the painted bowl is much much better better, you can also rap solar slab area but why when the decent is fun fun!

I have flown from seatac to boise, las vegas, alaska, and arizona with a full trad rack + nut tool as a carry on post 911 and have had zero problems.

I agree, I ordered the Willamette and rogue editions. While info is good, there are many many errors. Very poor quality on the final editors/publishers part. Worth getting though. Also, more route history would be nicer. Of the several bolted routes at the base of the big arch on Wolf rock serveral are listed as unknown for first ascent. The ones not put up by Jim were established by Brett Hall, who grew up in Sprinfield/Eugene and also in the Rosburg area. I don't know who his partner was, but possiblly Matt Pike was involved who also grew up in the Glide/Roseburg area. It would be nice to someday tie all this together into a comprehensive oregon craging guide some day including central and eastern Oregon, kind of like a revised Dodge tome.

Major construction sites, such as condos etc. will have big piles of scrap 2X dimmensional ends. Shouldn't be to hard to find, just ask at the job site for permission from the forman.

Dude you don't need skis. Take a pair of your down hill boards, if you got some in the 170 to 185 range. Go pickup a pair of used bindings. Anything a couple years old is probably good, or the cheapest new alteranative is the plain old voile cable, about $85, simple cheap and basically destruct proof. Mount the bindings so that the pins on your boots rest on the chord center (there are other methods but this is easiest, look it up on the interent if you don't know chord center) and make sure your heel is centered on the ski. You don't need to go out and worry about how light your skis are now. You basically want to ski the lifts and figure it out. By then you might decided you want to stick to AT or you might fall in love with tele. Then you can go out and pick up some bad ass stix. However, make sure you get some new or lightly used plastic boots that fit your foot. If your feet aint comfy you defenitely won't like it. Good Luck

is it a face on the NE side of the Twin Peak or Sawtooth Peak? if so, not unclimbed. P.S. I don't of a master list of routes in NE Oregon although I have a big notebook full of misc. scraps of info. Nor do all the locals know or like each other, or know what routes each other has done. As far as I know there are only 1 or 2 locals that spray at all about the routes they have done to the local community, much less to the outside world. I think climbing out there is still mostly secretive and terratorial. Therefore, I would not hazard a guess to weather a route has or has not been done on any particular face, especially since this is in North Amarican and Fred is still alive.

maybe not unclimbed

I don't want anything to do with what has been refered to as the "flying camel move" on pitch three of Shot in the Dark.

I concur with matt, I believe you were on Luke, the last 10 or 12 foot to the sencond pitch anchors is indeed a little but puckery with very poor hands. 5.10a

Maybe they were not at Darrington, but at static point on Fud Hat! I can't see how anyone could be off route or alarmed on Cornicopia flake with pro any pretty much any place you want it and rated at about 5.5 or 5.6. Unless you were leading with a gold line, some of those old Robins boots with the really slippery vibram sole, and a rack of hexes.

This post is more confusing than the 1980's Brooks and Whitelaw Darrington guide book!

I vote that the WCC consider a covert surveillance and subsequent ass kicking of the perps. Followed by duck-taping and hanging off a popular nearby route using said coveted climbing gear, ala the hanging pig head incident!

Cleaning out the ski stuff and getting ready to shred this winter. Have voile release binding sytem. Works and in good shape. I can help mount if need be. Looking to trade for some skins or maybe some halfway decent cross country skis or may be a blue or yellow metolious tcu in good shape. PM me Shapp

or Sterling 8.4 mm marathon double rope (i.e. really called 1/2 ropes by the manufacturers) Have two and like them, kind of slipery for catching falls and rapping when new, but me thinks this is true for all treated small diameter half ropes.

Been there, but will be in Glacier Park with my wife all next week