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shapp

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Everything posted by shapp

  1. The Book cover and table of contents above is not for Hortons book, the authors for the TOC above for "Rock Climbing Oregon" are Adam R. Bolf and Benjamin P. Ruef who I have never heard of.
  2. Yes another book for select 5.10 and under climbs, in stores this fall from what I understand. I only provided beta for High Valley (surpised anyone would put this into a guide book). Surprisingly the Rock'n Road book had highvalley in at crags up to 60 and 80 feet tall, but it is more like 30 feet of mostly choss and rattle snakes although a couple small savory gems exist. I know a few areas were not included such as Spring Mountain (surprised the Author didn't want to put this in as it has the most routes concentrated in a small area in the general local), and Hells Canyon (yes this in in Idaho, but it is really more of an Oregon Crag, God just put it on the Wrong side of the river) because I believe of the local opposition to publishing info.
  3. Might the actual Authors give up some info on this board?
  4. As far as the Eastern Oregon section I would say defenitely not, except for the Burnt River stuff, of which I am not sure.
  5. Whitelaw's was Weekend Rock for washington routes and Horton's will be for Oregon, I believe done by the Mountaineers I don't know the authors of the Oregon Rock from the photo above, never heard of them, there is something in their bio on Amazon about their extensive climbing since "1990", which is kind of funny. I have never heard of Shark Fin Rock or Gonzo Pinnacle? I also can't wait to see how bad they F'ed up the Eastern Oregon stuff.
  6. P.S. anthor book in the Weeked Rock series (same series as D. Whitelaw's latest guide) is also coming out by Ron Horton, for which I supplied some info.
  7. This TOC I got from the Library of Congress it is for the book pictured above "Rock Climbing Oregon" by Adam R. Bolf and Benjamin P. Ruef. Contents Acknowledgments Introduction How to Use This Book EASTERN OREGON 1. Burnt River Canyon French Gulch Slab French Gulch Spire The Heating Pad Roadside Wall 2. Anthony Lake Gunsight Dome North Buttress Gunsight Dome Lower South Buttress Gunsight Dome Lower Parker Creek Wall Upper Parker Creek Wall Lees Peak Angel Peak 3. High Valley Entrance Rock Parking Lot Rock Main Wall 4. Spring Mountain The Forested Entrance South Talus Field The Bush Section North Talus Field The Final Forest MOUNT HOOD/COLUMBIA RIVER GORGE 5. Bulo Point South Gully Second Gully The Main Area Northeast Section 6. Pete?s Pile The Playground Schoolroom Cracks The Sandbox 7. French?s Dome 8. Salmon River Slab NORTHWEST OREGON 9. Harlan Wall 10. Highway 11 Main Wall Highway 11 Pillar 11. Lower Menagerie Wilderness Rooster Rock Hen Rock Chicken Rock 12. Shark Fin Rock 13. Wolf Rock The Amphitheater The Great Arch?Southeast Wall 14. Santiam Pinnacle Santiam Pinnacle Weeping Wall Triangle Rock Gonzo Pinnacle 15. Iron Wall CENTRAL OREGON 16. Green Ridge 17. Sisters Boulders Front Gates East Fortress West Fortress 18. Smith Rock State Park Morning Glory Wall Churning Buttress Main Area The Peanut The Dihedrals Cinnamon Slab Center Section Left Side Christian Brothers Prophet Wall Testament Slab Area Combination Blocks Spiderman Buttress Monkey Face West Side East Side Red Wall Northern Point West Side East Side 19. The Steeple 20. The Badlands The Badlands Rock The Drive-In The South Wall 21. Meadow Picnic Area The West Side The Back Side 22. La Pine Wall 23. Crack in the Ground Green Valley South End The Second Crack SOUTHWEST OREGON 24. Youtlkut Pillars Appendix A: Glossary of Climbing Terms Appendix B: Authors? Favorite Climbs Appendix C: Secondary Data Sources Routes by Rating Index About the Authors
  8. whippet good!
  9. going to be up there around anchorage July 22 and 23 visiting relatives, anybody around Anchorage want to hook up and go to Hatcher Pass, or any other area near by, for a day. Been climbing a long time, but never in AK. Would ranther travel light and not bring my rack, but I can bring a light trad rack if needed. PM me if you would like to climb for a day. Thanks Jason
  10. Maybe different line, although it has been about 10+ years since I climbed it , This crack was located inside a wide spot/slot between two boulders that were maybe 6 or 8 ft apart. The crack was fingery and started angling left then back to the right, before it disappeared after about 15+ feet or so at a bulge I think with 10+ of slab after that to the top. I think the bolt on top had a black hanger, may be an SMC hanger?
  11. I'm surprised people travel to that moss pile from Portland. The Matt I know lead the crack and so did I with no bolt.
  12. Defenitley not 1996 cause I was not climbing there the summer of 1996. It was between 1993 and 1995 for sure. Was the Matt you are referring to blond, short and super stong, built like a wrestler (that would be M. Pike).
  13. Well back in those days it wasn't called the garden. In fact, I don't recall a name at all other than "those boulders near Green Peter". A few bolts were put on top of the bigger boulders, probably some of the first problems were done and grew back over with moss before they were rediscovered, the only thing I know for sure that was done was the finger crack between the two big boulders, I think M. Pike did that problem first (probably in about 1993 or 1994) A guy named Jon, SnailEye would know his last name I believe, who lived in Corvallis would know I think the most about early problems. He was a shorter dude, blondish, and starting to bald, very short hair, very very good climber. People that I know at least visited the area were Paul Baraza, Matt Pike, Jon?, Brett Hall, Paul Belskis, Matt Baker, Brian Beeger (maybe), me
  14. I got a yakima rack in good working condition, fit my 1993 olds wagon, got a couple different sets of clips, and keys. I live in Everett, WA. You can come try it out and it is yours for $20 if it works for you. email at jshappartATmeridianenvDOTcom
  15. 111, does your post have anything to do with ?'s regarding the Garden?
  16. These two men are not to be trusted, some say mother stabbers and father rapers, and who might be looking for them? Be wary of the SNAILEYE
  17. already have 3 of those, maybe something big, #4 or small .5
  18. I have a bunch of old climbing, Mountain, and RI mags some, frome early 1980s to present. Probably about 70 or 80, would like to get something in trade, maybe a #1 metolius TCU or something esle interesting. I live in Everett
  19. Please no more Pinto rock stuff, already know about that, stick to topic
  20. Jim T, might you be Bicycle Jim that used to drive the green bus? and live in Prairie C.
  21. Anyone know anything about these features, climbable or total choss? Also any info on Hapgood Rock just to the Northwest of Morton. Looks pretty interesting from binoculars.
  22. these are not the 1000 foot granite routes you are looking for, move along
  23. The real question is why you would wear shorts. Only goat ropers and pole smokers wear shorts at Darrington except Hanman, who is not a pole smoker but rummor has it has roped a few goats.
  24. I can tell you that some of the older boys that climbed early on at Static are putting up harder better routes in other areas not yet known
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