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Everything posted by shapp
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Estrogen mimic? Maybe this explains why I am growing man-tits
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You know who you are: want some directions to the slabs at Chimney Point, How about the Flagstaff Point route area, and what is the easiest way to get into Scotch Creek Cirque. Please PM me, looking to take a trip this comming summer to check out some historic gems for a week, I won't distribute any information given, swear on my mother's grave. Jason
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I'm not sure that young climbs to drugs or smoke dope anymore, or maybe the real young climbing crowd has been supplanted by straight aliens!. While at Smith a couple months ago, on a cold October night my buddy and I walked over to warm our backsides by a fire kindled by a group of college students. For use of the fire to warm my cold ass, I proferred up some smokables and was roundadly rejected, by the host of straight teenage hone masters.
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I thought Chongo was a monkey in a circus act.
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been solo toproping for 15+ years with various handle ascenders of various makes with a simple chest harness to orrient the top of the ascender in the correct position. Probably done atleast 1000's of laps with this set up. Have never had any problem at all, not recommended for traversing or wandering pitches though.
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Mark Hauter I believe, Blue Mt. Sports couldn't put you in touch with your own ass when I lived there.
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anything by D. Tower and C. Greyell
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Me be there
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After reading the other post this dude had about quick draws I have some serious quetions as to weather this person is ready for multipitch routes. If you don't know the difference between draws/slings and how many to take, can you be expected to set belays and handle rope management/rappels on multipitch routes?
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Dude they are like sport climbers only dude
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I have done first kiss, lots of bolts, about 5.8 pretty fun. For multipitch sport at smith in November I would do teddy bears picknick (5.10b) in the morning cause it is in the sun, or stroll over and do round river with the 5.8 finish, then hike over and climb First Kiss in the Afternoon. That would give you about 8 pitches, which would approximate a contrived grade III. Have fun.
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while you are at it, check to see if the binding is indeed mounted on chord center, and make sure that "your" boot while in the binding is centered laterally (side to side) on the ski.
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I may have spoken with you in person, I don't remember, and I also just made it out to the stuff on the deschutes by trout creek, great cracks. The routes at steins are good, but it was still worth the short hike for the adventure on the origional route before. I haven't put up any routes there.
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Actually, you misquoted yourself when you sent me the info last year and I have subsequently climbed all of these routes expect the 11d.
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Also some more details on some of the bolted routes in the area: A few years ago a line to climbers left of the 5.10d dihedral was put up and it is called "Shasta's Spirit" it goes at 5.11d. To the left of that route down at the base is a 5.10a called Mass Wasting. Some other folks from Bend/Redmond are putting up some routes on the other formations near Steins. Money, whiskey, sexy is a three pitch route that goes at 5.9+. It follows a slab on the downhill side of the middle formation. Those guys also did a route called "Heat Stroke" that is reportedly in the 5.10 range and is located on the farthest formation away from Steins Pillar. In addition, an individual put up a variation to the original route for the first pitch. Instead of climbing the chimney, head downhill around to the right and locate a slab that goes up to a bulge. This is called "Rocket ride" and goes at 5.10a. This deposits you on the large ledge where the second pitch to the original line heads up.
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No, you started this thread. So you aught to be open to another long long time oregon climbers opinion of the routes. Of which the opinion is no big deal.
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You probably spent more on a latte and a breakfast burrito than the cost of a couple wire gates, just don't climb with the dude any more
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This has got to be one of the dumbest threads about oregon rock I have ever read. Steins will always be an obscurity due to its proximity to the vastly popular Monkey and Smith in general. Also, who ever did put the routes up had to climb another route to get to the top and rap/clean etc. A lot of work indeed. Its not like they just walked up to a cliff and tossed a rope over and started drilling like at so many other crags in Oregon. At least you Oregon climbers are talking about something other than 3 finger Jack, Washington, or Hood.
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Ditto, how do you even know you had them at the beginning of that trip? Do you count every single crab every time you go climbing?
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I got the shizzle on the directions to the tasty crakizzle and will be in the area all next week, hope to check this place out for myself.
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[TR] Red Rocks, Nevada- several 10/1/2005
shapp replied to Otto's topic in The rest of the US and International.
yes yes, the descent down the painted bowl is much much better better, you can also rap solar slab area but why when the decent is fun fun! -
I have flown from seatac to boise, las vegas, alaska, and arizona with a full trad rack + nut tool as a carry on post 911 and have had zero problems.
