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shapp

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Everything posted by shapp

  1. Whitelaw's was Weekend Rock for washington routes and Horton's will be for Oregon, I believe done by the Mountaineers I don't know the authors of the Oregon Rock from the photo above, never heard of them, there is something in their bio on Amazon about their extensive climbing since "1990", which is kind of funny. I have never heard of Shark Fin Rock or Gonzo Pinnacle? I also can't wait to see how bad they F'ed up the Eastern Oregon stuff.
  2. P.S. anthor book in the Weeked Rock series (same series as D. Whitelaw's latest guide) is also coming out by Ron Horton, for which I supplied some info.
  3. This TOC I got from the Library of Congress it is for the book pictured above "Rock Climbing Oregon" by Adam R. Bolf and Benjamin P. Ruef. Contents Acknowledgments Introduction How to Use This Book EASTERN OREGON 1. Burnt River Canyon French Gulch Slab French Gulch Spire The Heating Pad Roadside Wall 2. Anthony Lake Gunsight Dome North Buttress Gunsight Dome Lower South Buttress Gunsight Dome Lower Parker Creek Wall Upper Parker Creek Wall Lees Peak Angel Peak 3. High Valley Entrance Rock Parking Lot Rock Main Wall 4. Spring Mountain The Forested Entrance South Talus Field The Bush Section North Talus Field The Final Forest MOUNT HOOD/COLUMBIA RIVER GORGE 5. Bulo Point South Gully Second Gully The Main Area Northeast Section 6. Pete?s Pile The Playground Schoolroom Cracks The Sandbox 7. French?s Dome 8. Salmon River Slab NORTHWEST OREGON 9. Harlan Wall 10. Highway 11 Main Wall Highway 11 Pillar 11. Lower Menagerie Wilderness Rooster Rock Hen Rock Chicken Rock 12. Shark Fin Rock 13. Wolf Rock The Amphitheater The Great Arch?Southeast Wall 14. Santiam Pinnacle Santiam Pinnacle Weeping Wall Triangle Rock Gonzo Pinnacle 15. Iron Wall CENTRAL OREGON 16. Green Ridge 17. Sisters Boulders Front Gates East Fortress West Fortress 18. Smith Rock State Park Morning Glory Wall Churning Buttress Main Area The Peanut The Dihedrals Cinnamon Slab Center Section Left Side Christian Brothers Prophet Wall Testament Slab Area Combination Blocks Spiderman Buttress Monkey Face West Side East Side Red Wall Northern Point West Side East Side 19. The Steeple 20. The Badlands The Badlands Rock The Drive-In The South Wall 21. Meadow Picnic Area The West Side The Back Side 22. La Pine Wall 23. Crack in the Ground Green Valley South End The Second Crack SOUTHWEST OREGON 24. Youtlkut Pillars Appendix A: Glossary of Climbing Terms Appendix B: Authors? Favorite Climbs Appendix C: Secondary Data Sources Routes by Rating Index About the Authors
  4. going to be up there around anchorage July 22 and 23 visiting relatives, anybody around Anchorage want to hook up and go to Hatcher Pass, or any other area near by, for a day. Been climbing a long time, but never in AK. Would ranther travel light and not bring my rack, but I can bring a light trad rack if needed. PM me if you would like to climb for a day. Thanks Jason
  5. Maybe different line, although it has been about 10+ years since I climbed it , This crack was located inside a wide spot/slot between two boulders that were maybe 6 or 8 ft apart. The crack was fingery and started angling left then back to the right, before it disappeared after about 15+ feet or so at a bulge I think with 10+ of slab after that to the top. I think the bolt on top had a black hanger, may be an SMC hanger?
  6. I'm surprised people travel to that moss pile from Portland. The Matt I know lead the crack and so did I with no bolt.
  7. Defenitley not 1996 cause I was not climbing there the summer of 1996. It was between 1993 and 1995 for sure. Was the Matt you are referring to blond, short and super stong, built like a wrestler (that would be M. Pike).
  8. Well back in those days it wasn't called the garden. In fact, I don't recall a name at all other than "those boulders near Green Peter". A few bolts were put on top of the bigger boulders, probably some of the first problems were done and grew back over with moss before they were rediscovered, the only thing I know for sure that was done was the finger crack between the two big boulders, I think M. Pike did that problem first (probably in about 1993 or 1994) A guy named Jon, SnailEye would know his last name I believe, who lived in Corvallis would know I think the most about early problems. He was a shorter dude, blondish, and starting to bald, very short hair, very very good climber. People that I know at least visited the area were Paul Baraza, Matt Pike, Jon?, Brett Hall, Paul Belskis, Matt Baker, Brian Beeger (maybe), me
  9. 111, does your post have anything to do with ?'s regarding the Garden?
  10. These two men are not to be trusted, some say mother stabbers and father rapers, and who might be looking for them? Be wary of the SNAILEYE
  11. Please no more Pinto rock stuff, already know about that, stick to topic
  12. Jim T, might you be Bicycle Jim that used to drive the green bus? and live in Prairie C.
  13. Anyone know anything about these features, climbable or total choss? Also any info on Hapgood Rock just to the Northwest of Morton. Looks pretty interesting from binoculars.
  14. these are not the 1000 foot granite routes you are looking for, move along
  15. The real question is why you would wear shorts. Only goat ropers and pole smokers wear shorts at Darrington except Hanman, who is not a pole smoker but rummor has it has roped a few goats.
  16. I can tell you that some of the older boys that climbed early on at Static are putting up harder better routes in other areas not yet known
  17. What about for the people who already baught the error laiden first one like me?
  18. Tat would not approximate an old harness unless said old harness was hung from a tree or bolt for several years being affected by sun, wind, rain, snow, mold, mice etc.
  19. shapp

    Dreamer

    Although I haven't been there yet this year, based on review of a recent photo taken of exfoliation dome, there is likely still a bunch of snow up on top that is melting making the whole thing wet. Better count on more of a recon trip than a climbing trip.
  20. I think slick rock is almost 50 degrees, sick!
  21. shapp

    Owyhee info?

    This should be in the Oregon forum
  22. will use the PT board, Do you think a dimand masonary/concrete circular saw blade on my old circular saw would be good enough or do I have to rent a regular concrete saw
  23. My idea so far is to snap a line on the asphalt along the edge (the asphalt is not very thick along the edge) and carfully break as clean an edge as possible with a wide masonary chisel, did a test try and it works pretty good. Then butt up some of the fiber board expansion joint stuff to the asphalt edge and pin this in with some 6 inch spikes through the fiber board into the asphalt underlayment, then use asphalt caulking to run a bead where the fiber board meats the actual asphalt edge to make sure it is all clean and stuck so the asphalt will not chip away, then screw a half inch piece of wood to the top of the fiber board to run the screed board on top during pooring (taking off the wood strip after the concrete is set) to give that small lip as described above .
  24. Thanks for the comments, stay on topic, which is dressing the edge of the concrete to the asphalt, I know all the other stuff. P.S. there was no old slab where the new concrete will go, there is currently a 4 foot wide strip of gravel between my current driveway and the asphalt. I don't like it cause grass and weeds grow in there and it gets a little rutty from time to time.
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